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How to: Installing OES Frame Sliders


Guest unknown

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Guest unknown

Here is how to install the OES Frame Sliders:
 
Difficulty: Easy
 
Tools Needed:
3/8" wratchet
17mm Sockect
10mm Hex driver
Medium or long extender 3/8" Extender
Pair of OES Frame Sliders
a dab of oil for the new bolts
Optional:
3/8" Torque Wrench
Blue Loctite
 
Note: Since the frame sliders have a metal insert, Blue Loctite is not necessary for this installation but can be used.
23AED0DC-5E5E-403A-BBBB-1FB404473ACF_zpsbq1vnknn.jpg
 
Do one side of the bike at a time. Use the 17mm socket, extension and ratchet to remove the frame boly that goes into the engine. It may require some force to remove this bolt so make sure the bike is on steady ground. Take not of how much force you had to apply to remove it. If you don't have a torque wrench, you will want to use similar force when reinstalling the new bolt. Use a helper to secure the bike if needed.
12267099-38DC-4132-BF41-04438F60AE57_zpsrkfsjc2t.jpg
Drop a dab of oil onto the new 10mm hex head bolt and insert the Frame Slider with the 10mm hex bolt and washer into the frame. Start the bolt by hand with the 10mm hex driver and extension.
8BC3E586-1818-48C0-ACD0-DED5A093D369_zpsbrdx5izo.jpg
Tighten down the bolt until snug with the 3/8" ratchet. When snug, tighten down to similar tightness as the previous engine bolt. If you have a torque wrench, torque the hex drive bolt to 35 ft/lbs.
 
Repeat the procedure for the other side and you are all finished.
 
 

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  • Global Moderator

Nice walk through, unknown. I put them on my bike and it was as easy as you showed. I put a little oil on the threads before I torqued them down as I believe the 35 ft-lbs is a wet torque value. The only other thing I would add is to only do one side at a time. Nothing good can come of having both bolts out at the same time.

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  • Premium Member

Are you referring to Loctite for the 'oil'? This is what I would recommend. Blue Loctite. In the case you need to remove this bolt later it will make it easier and it also stops the bolt backing out due to vibrations.

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Guest unknown

 

All OES frame sliders use 6061 aluminum spacers which are pressed into the slider. The spacer is a very critical part of any frame slider. Without the
spacer, the screw or bolt that holds the frame slider on, which is an engine
mount screw/ bolt, will never remain torqued. This inability to remain torqued
is due to the slider base deforming under the pressure of the screw or bolt.
We know of some frame slider manufacturers who recommend light torque in
combination with thread locker for their frame slider mounting screws/bolts.
Why do they do this? Because they don't use spacers. The slider base will
deform easier with the actual recommended torque specifications, so they will
recommend much lower torque, hence the need for thread locker, so the
frame slider doesn't fall off while you're riding the bike. This may seem like an
easy enough remedy, but it is not. Even if the torque applied is only 20 lb/ft,
the slider base will still deform and the frame slider will become loose. Once
this happens, vibrations due to the engine mounts being loose will lead to
failure of the screw or bolt, and the frame slider will still fall off while you're
riding the bike. So, the bottom line is, without a spacer pressed into the frame
slider, the frame slider cannot be properly mounted to the bike, and the bike
will have two less motor mounts than it had from the factory.


3. Slightly grease or oil the threads of the frame slider mounting screw and install frame slider where the factory engine mount screw was removed. The screw should start and thread in with very little resistance.

 
 
This is taken directly from their website.
 
 
 
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Loctite will act as the 'grease or oil.' They want you to do this as Aluminum does not rust but it corrodes. Getting a engine mount bolt off that's corroded is a huge pain. Its never a bad idea to have a small bottle of loctite around I use it on a ton of different things. Stay away from Red or Green in this situation as those are permanent.

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I looked at their website and see they offer a whole kit (forks, frame, swing arm). The rear says it has spool mounts. Not a bad deal I think at $135 delivered. Would you guys advise for or against the full kit.

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Guest unknown

I ordered the full kit but haven't finished the installation of the axle sliders. Customer service so far has been good, as they sent the wrong bolt fopr the front and contacted me before I even knew I had the wrong part. One of the bolts for the rear did shear off with little force but they are sending me replacements. I'll have a write up for those soon too.

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  • 1 month later...
  • Premium Member
hippiebikerchick
Just wanna make sure. Is it normal for the slider to turn on the frame?
Yes, mine are torqued to the proper foot/pound and the sliders can still be rotated a bit. I was concerned about that too at first but it's normal.

Illegitimi non carborundum

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Just wanna make sure. Is it normal for the slider to turn on the frame?
Yes, mine are torqued to the proper foot/pound and the sliders can still be rotated a bit. I was concerned about that too at first but it's normal.
Awesome! Thanks.
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  • 1 month later...

I'd love to see a couple of pics for the rear axle sliders. The instructions don't make it super clear whether the rod goes all the way through the axle, although it would probably make sense if I had the part in-hand.

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  • 3 months later...
  • Premium Member

Glad I saw this thread. I just ordered the full kit with front axle protectors and rear axle spools.
Install to come on the weekend (I hope).
 

Why can't left turners see us?

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Slightly off topic. But OES buyers beware.
 
If you install the sliders at the front and rear axles you could be asking for trouble when you remove them. If for some reason the bolts on the right side unscew leaving the left bolts and sliders secure to the rod you can not remove the slider or rod. The rod, due to its diameter will only exit from the right side.
 
 
Many have used red loctite on the right side bolts and blue loctite on the left side bolts. I went one step further and installed the slider and bolt on the right side of the rods but before intalling it through the axle I drilled a small hole through the rod and bolt. I drilled the hole just large enough to accept a cut off piece of pop rivet rod. After drilling the hole through both, I took a larger drill and made a slight countersink hole on each side of the rod itself. I then placed the pop rivet rod through both the rod and bolt and placed it in a vice, squishing the extra length of the pop rivet rod into the countersunk portions of aluminum rod. I finished by tapping it almost flush with the rod by using a small hammer and then filed it so it did not protrude out passed the diameter of the alminum rod. Now I never after to worry about the wrong bolt loosening up. It only took about one half hour or less to drill out both front and rear rods.
 
http://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag384/riverfox3/Mobile%20Uploads/20150131_221136_zpsn9btrtpb.jpg
 
 
 
 

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  • 1 month later...
Just wanna make sure. Is it normal for the slider to turn on the frame?
Yes, mine are torqued to the proper foot/pound and the sliders can still be rotated a bit. I was concerned about that too at first but it's normal.
I just installed my OES frame sliders today and had read about this potential rotation. I measured the length of the OES bolt that stuck out of the slider when the slider/washer/bolt was assembled. It was longer than the OEM length by about the thickness of the OEM washer so I put the OEM washer between the slider and the frame, just like the OEM setup.  Torqued the bolt and there is NO rotation of the slider at all.  My concern is that the OES bolt is bottoming out in the hole if you don't use the OEM washer along with the OES washer. 
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  • Global Moderator

I just pulled mine off to check as you had me worried. I checked the hole depth and it is longer than the bolt extends with just the OES supplied washer installed. The metal insert in the slider is not attached to the black slider material. What is happening is the slider is rotating on the metal insert, which is correctly torque to the frame and therefore engine. Mine rotated exactly the same when I temporarily installed one with the stock washer installed as well. I am convinced that the factory washer is not necessary, especially as it makes the slider stick of further and not look as finished.

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Just to clarify, I contacted OES and the Yamaha factory washer must be removed.

Why can't left turners see us?

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Thanks @rowdy. It is nice to know what OES says. They should know :).

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Guest whitegas

I learned recently from one of the dealerships through hearsay that OES sliders in-fact are not able to mount as handle bar ends! I mean, they tried to mount it as handle bar ends, but it just wouldn't work!
 

Alright, I realize inside jokes aren't the best thing especially with a lot of new members trickling in...

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  • 3 months later...

I don't suppose anyone can tell me which stock parts will be obsolete after the OES frame/axle sliders are installed?
 
My dealership offered to install these for me before delivering the bike, but I'm just realizing that they didn't give back any stock parts to me that were left over after the install. Don't these sliders require replacing certain bolts/washers? Did I just lose some of my stock parts? Is it worth me causing a fuss over it?

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