pattonme Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 The juicy bits start http://fz07.org/post/52730/thread, but the upshot is that the Comp leg mid-valve was set up very poorly at the factory (Force curves). Either there is still a bit of old stock in the pipeline or they haven't seen fit to fix the gaff despite my calling attention to the matter. The fix to the 'C' leg is 3 fold [ul type=disc][*]new shim stack on base valve[*]new piston and shim stack on mid valve[*]14-16 cSt@40 fork oil (Fork Oil Weights)[/ul] I supply the first two by default. Generally it's best to have the kit sent to me direct (eg. from PJ's Parts), I update it and then send it off to you ($130). If you'd like me to do the installation into your forks (seals, bushings, kit) I've discounted the standard labor rates though the higher shipping and insurance will net most of it back out. I can send just the piston and shims and you supply the labor for $50+postage. Fork oil Send me a PM with your "Paypal email" address and I can send you an invoice to review and red line. The cost shipped of your forks fully upgraded and ready to ride looks to be $700. If you DIY install you can shave that down by $90. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elmo Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Hello Matt, Enjoy your 07.org posts Reading your Makris F15 cartridge past comments. Have manufacturing improvements occurred or do you still recommend your modifications? If yes… bummer, place an order with BellissiMoto and they are expecting delivery soon, assuming they will receive the shipment, then send to my address. Is there merit to having BellissiMoto send my cartridges to you 1st for your refinement and then you send to me? Appreciate the guidance Thanks Rick Marchand 650 515-8374 Edit FYI- Paypal email rickmarchand1@gmail.com Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted July 7, 2017 Author Share Posted July 7, 2017 For the life I me I can't find the person who wanted the Matris kit but needed 8.5N/mm springs. Well, the shipment finally arrived! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 (edited) This is a PSA. Please be aware that if your Matris kit suddenly loses damping (especially obvious in rebound) that the cartridge rod bushing has come out. I've seen it happen twice now and it's because either the hole is fractionally too big or more likely, the split bushing has too big a split. It doesn't take much but the pressure in the cartridge pushes on the bushing and works it loose. The only quick way to fix it is to put green wicking locktite between it and the surround. Your parts will have to be clean and oil free and be allowed to cure. (shaft-lock red will probably work too. The more permanent fix is for Matris to redesign the part to put a small lip on the holder (best if on upper surface) so it's mechanically impossible for the bushing to walk out. I will be sending Matris an email but am not hopeful that they will take action. I'll have to go back and closely examine what the other guys do but I'm pretty sure everybody else uses a press bushing, and not a split one. @bellissimoto can you help out with making the report "official"? PS. If it hasn't by now (ie. you've been riding it for 50+ miles over decently bumpy surfaces) then you should be safe and no need to fret over it. Edited May 7, 2018 by pattonme 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bellissimoto Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 On 5/4/2018 at 11:31 PM, pattonme said: This is a PSA. Please be aware that if your Matris kit suddenly loses damping (especially obvious in rebound) that the cartridge rod bushing has come out. I've seen it happen twice now and it's because either the hole is fractionally too big or more likely, the split bushing has too big a split. It doesn't take much but the pressure in the cartridge pushes on the bushing and works it loose. The only quick way to fix it is to put green wicking locktite between it and the surround. Your parts will have to be clean and oil free and be allowed to cure. (shaft-lock red will probably work too. The more permanent fix is for Matris to redesign the part to put a small lip on the holder (best if on upper surface) so it's mechanically impossible for the bushing to walk out. I will be sending Matris an email but am not hopeful that they will take action. I'll have to go back and closely examine what the other guys do but I'm pretty sure everybody else uses a press bushing, and not a split one. @bellissimoto can you help out with making the report "official"? PS. If it hasn't by now (ie. you've been riding it for 50+ miles over decently bumpy surfaces) then you should be safe and no need to fret over it. This is the first I've heard of this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jocra13 Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 I was looking into buying these and have recently been put on my heels by the issues and fixes described by you that are needed to make them road-worthy. Seems like this is still the case today from my research. I would like to purchase them from you and have them fixed as needed or is there a better suggestion today around the same price point? Forum won't let me PM so we will have to talk here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elmo Posted March 16, 2019 Share Posted March 16, 2019 22 hours ago, jocra13 said: I was looking into buying these and have recently been put on my heels by the issues and fixes described by you that are needed to make them road-worthy. Seems like this is still the case today from my research. I would like to purchase them from you and have them fixed as needed or is there a better suggestion today around the same price point? Forum won't let me PM so we will have to talk here jocra, Have the Matris F15 shocks with Patton's modified shims stack installed (factory setup very stiff). I have experienced this bushing issue, while it's an easy fix, requires complete disassembly the shock. While currently happy with the performance, would suggest looking for other options, sorry no recommendations. I would suggest using the zip test method, to verify how your fork is currently performing before buying new forks or making any modifications. There are some modifications that may help stock fork.- Add preload adjusters, change fork oil weight, change spring rating, modifying damper opening size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topazsparrow Posted March 16, 2019 Share Posted March 16, 2019 On 3/15/2019 at 9:27 AM, jocra13 said: I was looking into buying these and have recently been put on my heels by the issues and fixes described by you that are needed to make them road-worthy. Seems like this is still the case today from my research. I would like to purchase them from you and have them fixed as needed or is there a better suggestion today around the same price point? Forum won't let me PM so we will have to talk here pattonme has been MIA for a few months now I think he said he was swamped with life stuff and his day job. He's a busy guy and this stuff is just a part time job/hobby for him. You might not get a reply any time soon, just FYI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jocra13 Posted March 16, 2019 Share Posted March 16, 2019 I appreciate the update, I suppose I will just stick with springs, oils and adjusters then. That's what I was looking at prior to finding the Matris solution. Seemed good for the price, now I know why. Zip tie test is pretty smart, I will do that as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted May 24, 2019 Author Share Posted May 24, 2019 I have a 3 or 4 of these already modified sitting on the shelf. I owe one to a certain somebody in Hawaii, first though. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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