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Racing your FZ-07? Sound off here!


Cruizin

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Regarding the 180 tire, I tried the 5.5 rim on my SV this year as I was looking for more tire life. The bigger tires definitely last longer, but I have to admit the bike just doesn't feel quite as good as before and it has seemed to lose a bit of acceleration. I think that part of that is that I need to re-consider my gearing as the larger tire effectively drops a tooth or two from the rear sprocket, but I'm thinking about selling my 5.5 setup and going to a 4.5 inch wheel again.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Spent the afternoon  helping a buddy strip his brand new 2016 FZ07 for a race conversion today. His parts are starting to show up and he's getting excited for next season to get here!  Another friend picked up a crashed 2015 that he is going to race next year too. That will make at least 4 on the CRA grid in 2017. Good times! These are both going to be super sport spec bikes, at least to start out.  :D
 

 
 
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Well, just got back from Chuckwalla for the race weekend...
 
Did the trackday on Friday, but I still don't have a closed belly pan and everything safety wired so I didn't race today...
 
However, the bike is dialed and I did a personal best lap on Friday!!! We were running in the clockwise direction which was my least favorite, and usually slower by about .5 of a second on average compared to counter clockwise.
 
I decided to try the Pirelli SC1 compound over the SC2's I usually run. What a difference!!!
 
My best lap period on this track was a 2:06.94 in the CW direction. Best lap in the CCW direction we were running today was a 2:08.57
 
Imagine my surprise when I smashed it with a 2:02.83 !!! What's crazy is that all my other laps were in the low 2:03's, so it wasn't a fluke. The 2:02.83 came on the last lap, and I remember distinctly about how I hoped the session was over soon because I wanted to eat lunch, lol. What's even crazier, is that when I did that lap, halfway into the next one my lap timer displayed "-1.58", (I had it in predictive mode) and I was astonished...I was about to click off a 2.00.xx lap, until the checkered flag came out and I didn't get to finish the lap :(
 
Still, the 2:02.83 was a highlight moment for me. My goal is to get a sub 2 minute lap. I think I can do it. But I guess the better part of today is that every lap I ran was better than my previous best, by 3 seconds on average, and that was in traffic, etc.
 
And when I do get my bike race legal, I'm not only going to enter the formula twins class, but the 600 Formula classes as well, because with the times I was able to do today put me right in the middle of the pack against the modified 600 bikes like the R6 etc.
 
:)
 
- Paulie
 
 

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Has anyone noticed that the FZ-07 has more steering angle than needed for the street, let alone a race bike. I put 4,000 miles on mine driving to work with reduced steering after I installed drag bars and angled them down to run 90 degrees with the forks. No problems at all, even doing a quick U-turn to get my dog off the road as she tried following me to work. LOL Taking measurements for a front mounted steering damper, I found that I need about 85 mm of stroke and that is with my reduced steering. Generally, Supersports run dampers around 70 mm in stroke.
 
Anyways, I will be modifying the steering stops so that I don't over extend an expensive damper and I was wondering if anyone has limited their steering on their race FZ-07's.
 
Thanks,
 
Craig

Craig Mapstone
Upstate New York

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Anyways, I will be modifying the steering stops so that I don't over extend an expensive damper and I was wondering if anyone has limited their steering on their race FZ-07's.  
 
You are correct in that there is more than enough steering lock for routine maneuvers. Since I don't run a damper and all my cables and such fit easily out of the way I didn't bother adjusting the steering lock. It comes in handy loading and bopping around the paddock or shop where I use it all frequently. If you've ever ridden a bike with too little you'll understand the saying; Better to have more than you need, than need more than you have. 
 
 
A pic of what the FZ replaced, fond memories.  
 
 

 
fz_028.jpg
 
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1106161437_zpsnywn0zwy.jpg
 
The blocks are 1/4" thick and there is still enough steering for street riding.  I took the bike out and rode around in the city and parking lots with no problems.  With that being said, 1/4" is probably the maximum.  I could probably go to 3/16" and the 90 mm stroke steering damper would work.  But I'll install the damper first before removing material on the blocks.  Stroke measured 75 mm with the 1/4" blocks.

Craig Mapstone
Upstate New York

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  • 3 weeks later...

Mossrider.
Thanks for confirming my suspicions about the 180 tyre. I was pretty suspicious about it size ( and associated weight) but I don't get near a track nowdays. I agree a 165 would be ideal ( for stock reachable power) but the ridiculous 5.5" rim is too big for anything under 170. Considering the weight and weight bias I considered a motard tyre may be worth a go ( 165/65), but really only a thought experiment.
I suspect your class rules don't allow rim swapping ( most don't), so pretty much limited.
pgeldz was talking 180/60 I think but I suspect even more weight would slow the acc even more. I can see his point on a big open track with all high speed corners though. The extra gyro and weight wouldn't be as big an issue and the extra side area may help keep tyre temperatures down.

Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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pgeldz,
The best stuff to make a form for your belly pan is ureathane insulation . A block the size you need should be pretty cheap. VERY easy to work with a rasp, sandpaper and the foan itself to finish shape it.
You could even make a mould that way and then be able to make replacements if you crash it.
BTW there is a new ultralight weight cloth called innegra that is worth using with the fibreglass or carbon. It doen't finish well so make sure it is in between or on the inside of the pan. It makes the glass or carbon lighter and much less brittle. HAS to be epoxy rather than polyester resin though ( like carbon).
If you were in Australia, I would make you one to kick start me into building one for my self, but the postage is ridiculous.
A quick single way is to shape the pan, put a layer of resin only on the form and smooth it. Paint it with polyvinyl alcohol and while it is wet wrap it in gladwrap. Paint it again with poly vinyl alcohol and when dry , use that as a male mold for lay up. When set do a medium finish and cut lengthwise . Use water to remove the form and wash it well. Then re-resin it together and finish it properly. You can get a really good looking, proper aero pan that way. And VERY light weight.
 
Sorry but this is about the best pic I have of one made that way:
er6sale5.jpg
 

Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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Hey gregjet,
 
 
That ER ain't an FZ but it's the next best thing! It's winter up here, give us the back story on that cool racer.
 
 
Dave
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This was before the FZ/MT came out. Well before.
Note this is for racing in Queensland, Australia. On short ( international length) gokart tracks.
The class was "Formula 3" and "RR" which are pretty much Qld only, though there are some similar classes in other states. Singles: from 400cc up to 1000cc; Twins: 4 stroke 400 to 650cc,2 stroke 250cc max; 4cyl four stroke max 400cc.
Stock frame.
Motors MUST be stock. No cams, inlet port work, stock carbs and throttle bodies and no bore increase, stock compression etc. Exhaust may be changed. Airbox may be changed. ECU and carbs may be refuelled. Forks must be externally stock. Rear shock is replaceable. Tyres ( then ) could be slicks ( no longer). Brake discs must be std diameter and number and pads may be changed to fit stock calipers. Handlebars free. Seat and bodywork free. Footpegs and controls free. Usual racing reqs. like belly pan, lock wiring, etc. Stock Wheels. Stock tyre sizes up to plus one size, but profile free.
Bought as a road registered bike and stripped it and lightened it.
Yagugar rear shock, racetech springs and GVE's, alloy home made damper rods, internal adj. spring preload devices. Carbon metallic brake pads ( same as SV650 interestingly).
Carbon fibre bellypan, seat,seat shrouds, front bikini fairing, instrument nacelle, radiator shrouds, rear sprocket protector, peg plates and engine sidecover protectors, mudguard, hugger ( all made by me except the Rad shrouds).
Arrow headers with shortened Akro titanium muffler.
Modded Kawaka 600 rearset footpegs.
Airbox is stock because there are so many sensors in it that are flow dependent, but inlet was opened and redirected for cooler air. DNA air filter.
Power commander, dyno refined.
Hel brake lines ( as always).
Upside down alloy bars, then Renthal ultra lows. The bike gave best feedback with wider bars than I would usually use.
Ecliptech change lights and Acewell tacho for most of it's life. BTW Ecliptech has just released it's new change light dash which is even better that the old ones. Aussie made. On His facebook page.
Started with Conti race attack but didn't like them, so changed to Bridgestone BT003R's.
Geared 1 down on the front and 5 rear ( Renthal alloy and renthal no O ring chain)
I am only a middle of the packer but the fastest guy also raced one and rode it like a motard ( caus he was a motard rider). Of course the fastest person was a woman on a beautifully prepared VRVF400. Ate a few male egos for breakfast , especially when she came up and accepted the 1st place trophy with her newish baby breast feeding. So much for macho road racers.
Loved it, but I am pretty sure a 07 would be faster and the Aussie LAMS 655cc version qualifies for the class ( 650cc plus manufacturer oversize up to 5%). The ER is so much heavier. Even with all that stuff to lighten it it was 165kg. The 07 is less than that with the storage tank of a muffler. And it is much shorter. The 07's biggest problem , as it appears to me is the oversize rear wheel and the big rear weight bias, making the front end a bit flakey. I think most effort after making the suspension work and the throttle fuelled smoother, would be getting more load on the front wheel.
 
Not a lot of race pics unfortunately. Hewre is one prepared earlier:
race2006115-Copy.jpg

Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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The only racing I do with my FZ-07 is hitting up the local strip @ US 131... I do a few events a year that are put on by my friends, to help out for the fun of it...it's always a "dial in" race for me.. my avg 1/8 mile times are like 8.20 @2nd gear starts(no QS or HordPower air box), it's hard to race your self and not try to go all out with a best of 7.93 on a 28°f day with cars still hitting mid-high 4s... Next year the bike will be better tuned as it falls flat on its face power wise just after 1/8mile when running the 1/4 mile...The bike runs the 1/8 mile quicker than the 1/4mile in stockish form, it just needs help past the 1/8 mile to match the paper numbers, to me it seems the bike is a little over .5 secs slower in reality then what the math shows when you convert your 1/8 mile times to 1/4 mile times...
 
I know a lot of postings here are track racing and majority of you say the FZ-07 is best when rode like a motard and I agree because even Yamaha dirt bikes are the most neutral feeling bikes when you corner and I actually enjoy it and it suits my riding style after many years on a dirt bike...

2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW
 

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One of the biggest problems with motard style riding when road racing is the race lines are COMPLETELY different. It can make racing very dangerous. When racing my smaller class bikes, there was one guy on a motard in the class. He was reasonably slow once at speed but of course he was insanely fast off the line. That made passing him very dangerous as he would enter wide and shoot across in front of me at every corner as I was passing him. Once I was passed him, I disappeared, but many close calls. Motards and proper leaners don't mix safely. They bought out a rule saying motards had to be ridden RR style when the classes were mixed, but few listened.
Sorry this is the only pic I have of it. If you trace where I am going , you can see I will apex about 3 or 4 meters behind him and then I will drive beneath him but on a wider line. He has already apexed about where he is and will brake to square off then hard turn across me. That means we will both intersect at 2 points.
race200611%2012.jpg
 

Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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That's cool stuff there, I love hearing about the different forms of racing around this rok. There are a couple of those Kawi 650's that occasionally race with us at BIR. They definitely get with the program. The motors seem to respond well to a tune and common cheats.? Good lookin bikes too. As to the FZ, the weight bias wasn't as bad as one would think. During the race-prep process there seemed to be a natural movement of weight from back to front. By the time I was done it was right at 50/50. I added height to the rear, lowered the front, moved some things around and swapped out parts then the fairings/front stay seemed to be the final magic. With a race ready rider on board it is even more front biased. The 'over sized' rear is not necessarily a handicap, however. It allows greater choice of tire, size, compound, manufacturer, aspect ratio etc. Around here it is tough to find good 165's in DOT for supersport for example, the 180 fixes that. I don't mind changing tires for races but to have to change set up/gearing too between races (if I was running one company's 165 slick and their 180 DOT) would be problematic. This is why I have settled on running the Pirelli SC dot/superbike slick both in 180/60. Sure I give away a little in acceleration and maybe top speed but it is negligible at my level. You also have to keep in mind this bike was engineered to ride/run/handle with the 180. The primary gearing, rake, trail, head angle, handling characteristics etc were all set with that in mind. The only place I realy notice it is the 5000 foot front straight on BIR's long course (actualy much longer because lightweight bikes go full throttle thru turn 1 and 2 over 1.5 mile to turn 3 first braking zone). I'm sure I'll mess with it; however, because that's what we do.?
 
 

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...blah blah blah old guy rambles...The only place I realy notice it is the 5000 foot front straight on BIR's long course (actualy much longer because lightweight bikes go full throttle thru turn 1 and 2 over 1.5 mile to turn 3 first braking zone). I'm sure I'll mess with it; however, because that's what we do.? 

Don't worry.  You'll be able to hold onto my draft.....til the tower.  Then you're on your own buddy.

-Chris
Central Roadracing Association #286E

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Don't worry.  You'll be able to hold onto my draft.....til the tower.  Then you're on your own buddy. 
 
 
Sometimes an old fashioned ass whoopin and a good cry is a necessary part of a young man's formative growth. Good luck sped.
 
Dave
?
 
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Sometimes an old fashioned ass whoopin and a good cry is a necessary part of a young man's formative growth. Good luck sped. 
Dave
?
I'll be sure to bring a hankie for you to wipe your tears in May.

-Chris
Central Roadracing Association #286E

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Like Zack @ Motorcyclist said, you know you've got your set up pretty close when you're knee down, on the brakes at apex (a buddy a couple laps into test riding my bike)
 
 
IMG_3026_3840x2560_1.jpg
says something about the user friendliness of these bikes 

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This is from the endurance race at Brainerd in September. One race, shows what going through turns 1 & 2 at top speed will do to a new tire.
 
Handling is a little wonky now?
 
 
20161211_150203.jpg
 
20161211_150142.jpg
 
image hosting
 

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pgeldz, The best stuff to make a form for your belly pan is ureathane insulation . A block the size you need should be pretty cheap. VERY easy to work with a rasp, sandpaper and the foan itself to finish shape it.
You could even make a mould that way and then be able to make replacements if you crash it.
BTW there is a new ultralight weight cloth called innegra that is worth using with the fibreglass or carbon. It doen't finish well so make sure it is in between or on the inside of the pan. It makes the glass or carbon lighter and much less brittle. HAS to be epoxy rather than polyester resin though ( like carbon).
If you were in Australia, I would make you one to kick start me into building one for my self, but the postage is ridiculous.
A quick single way is to shape the pan, put a layer of resin only on the form and smooth it. Paint it with polyvinyl alcohol and while it is wet wrap it in gladwrap. Paint it again with poly vinyl alcohol and when dry , use that as a male mold for lay up. When set do a medium finish and cut lengthwise . Use water to remove the form and wash it well. Then re-resin it together and finish it properly. You can get a really good looking, proper aero pan that way. And VERY light weight.
 
Sorry but this is about the best pic I have of one made that way:
er6sale5.jpg

I actually owned a 2008 Versys, very similar. Put 28,000 miles on it in 2 years. Most fun/practical bike (of 20ish) I ever owned. Like all the stupid things I've done it's long gone.  Meh. 
 
 
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Back story on this bike; this is Henks' old SV racer under Anthony. I spose I'm gonna end up hating his new bike as much as his old one...dick ?
 

IMG_8984_X3.jpg
 
This is my old SV, it died a magnificent death in a 105 mph stoppie going into T12! 
 
 
13254931_284186731917561_6605521184038698899_o.jpg
Good times!
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  • 2 weeks later...
This is my old SV, it died a magnificent death in a 105 mph stoppie going into T12!  
 
13254931_284186731917561_6605521184038698899_o.jpg
Good times!
That sounds like the best way to send a bike to heaven.  But in the scheme of things, it doesn't look that bad, except for that rear rim.

Yams and Ham!

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