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snowdriftless

Aligning your rear wheel.

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snowdriftless
I just found THIS posted on Cycle world. Seems like an easy way to align your rear wheel that can save you a few bucks on buying an alignment tool. I'll be using this method next time I need to adjust my chain.
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bmwpowere36m3
Yup, time consuming... but effective.

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scordiaboy515
I don't understand why people make this task so difficult...go to Northern Tool and by a cheap pair of dial calipers, take off the lock nut on the adjuster, loosen the axle nut but keep it snug, make your adjustment, measure how much of the stud is exposed...make the other side the same and your done....7a4hRxJ.jpgvM9lJmG.jpg
 
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rick
Along with being simple to do, that's simply brilliant!!
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jake
I've been just using the marks as a guide and so far now issue.. But I'm going to get a dial to check it.

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gregjet
This makes an assumption that the end of thread to axle hole is always the same. I suspect it may not be and even a smaee bit out will make a real difference. If you are going to use this method ( and it is a good method IF you know they are even) , I suggest that you pull the axle carrier out and measure from the nearest end of the hole to the end with the aforementioned verniers. if they are equal ( and I mean REALLY equal) put back together and off you go. If not CAREFULLY file the thread end flat until they are . You could use a power tool but carefully.
 
If anybody does this , could you let us know if they were equal or how much adjustment you had to do. PLEASE. I am doing mine this way and rough checking with a laser level down the chain.
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bmwpowere36m3
All I can say is my rear wheel is straight via strings and the wheel/chain adjuster threads are NOT equal, nor the hash marks (about 1/2 hash difference).
 
You're making a lot of assumptions when you start arbitrarily measuring things.... and then inferring results.
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scordiaboy515
This makes an assumption that the end of thread to axle hole is always the same. I suspect it may not be and even a smaee bit out will make a real difference. If you are going to use this method ( and it is a good method IF you know they are even) , I suggest that you pull the axle carrier out and measure from the nearest end of the hole to the end with the aforementioned verniers. if they are equal ( and I mean REALLY equal) put back together and off you go. If not CAREFULLY file the thread end flat until they are . You could use a power tool but carefully. 
If anybody does this , could you let us know if they were equal or how much adjustment you had to do. PLEASE. I am doing mine this way and rough checking with a laser level down the chain.
Already done that.....the wheel will be aligned within .010 of an inch....way closer than it has to be. 

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scordiaboy515
All I can say is my rear wheel is straight via strings and the wheel/chain adjuster threads are NOT equal, nor the hash marks (about 1/2 hash difference). 
You're making a lot of assumptions when you start arbitrarily measuring things.... and then inferring results.
....not assuming anything, measured both chain adjusters when I had it apart, they are virtually the same in dimensions.  It's the most accurate way to center up the rear wheel....if it's good enough for Pro Stock bikes that go 200mph in the quarter mile it's good enough for me   

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rowdy
Buy a lazer tool and align the chain. My adjuster nuts, and the frame marks were of by a few threads and one whole frame mark.
Using the nuts is just plain... :)

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rick
Haven't yet, but will check mine this way and see if it agrees with where I now have it.
 
But if there is a delta it would be easy enough to note the difference and use this way for the future.
 
Have always wondered if when having the wheel "straight" as far as the chain's run is concerned winds up being straight in relation to the frame. You'd hope so, but ----

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bmwpowere36m3
Haven't yet, but will check mine this way and see if it agrees with where I now have it.  
But if there is a delta it would be easy enough to note the difference and use this way for the future.
 
Have always wondered if when having the wheel "straight" as far as the chain's run is concerned winds up being straight in relation to the frame. You'd hope so, but ----
They should be, but might not be... then it comes down to what's more important: straight chain, straight wheel or compromise both.

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bmwpowere36m3
All I can say is my rear wheel is straight via strings and the wheel/chain adjuster threads are NOT equal, nor the hash marks (about 1/2 hash difference). 
You're making a lot of assumptions when you start arbitrarily measuring things.... and then inferring results.
....not assuming anything, measured both chain adjusters when I had it apart, they are virtually the same in dimensions.  It's the most accurate way to center up the rear wheel....if it's good enough for Pro Stock bikes that go 200mph in the quarter mile it's good enough for me 
Most accurate way.... no.  Is it easy and gives good results, yes (so long as you preform the dimensional checks).  The beauty of the strings is that very small changes in the rear wheel, result in BIG (easy to measure) changes up front.  Thus you can achieve very, very good alignments with nothing more than string and a ruler. By the way, I have the same Gilles spool mounts and my threads are not even as mentioned previously.  So, YMMV.
 

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rick
Haven't yet, but will check mine this way and see if it agrees with where I now have it.  
But if there is a delta it would be easy enough to note the difference and use this way for the future.
 
Have always wondered if when having the wheel "straight" as far as the chain's run is concerned winds up being straight in relation to the frame. You'd hope so, but ----
They should be, but might not be... then it comes down to what's more important: straight chain, straight wheel or compromise both.
yep, if the sprockets are not in the same plane, the chain can't be straight when the wheels are. Think I'd rather have the wheels in alignment 1st.  
This is a case where a single sided swinger rules. The chain tension is adjusted by rotating an eccentric hub. Set it and forget it. But oh man are all of those parts expensive. 

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Guest 2wheeler
I just found this video on youtube, and wanted to check what everyone thinks about this one. The two things in particular are the using the swingarm bolt as a reference point, and using the allen wrench to snug up the wheel.
 
Thoughts???
 
 

 
 

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