paulibiker Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 One other goofy thing that I discovered. Don't know if it's something I did in the process or it was there all along and I just didn't notice until the springs were a bit stiffer and there was far more damping in both directions, but I have a fair amount of stiction in my forks. And I think most of it is in the seals ( I reused the OE ones, btw). W/o trying very hard, I was able to get another 7.5mm (just shy of 90mm total) of max travel just by lifting the dust seals and giving the fork tubes above the seals a light spritz of silicone and putting the dust seals back down. That didn't last long of course. So, along with doing some creative valve work ( I'll be getting back to you, sir, at some point when it's snowing) I'm thinking of also switching to these seals - They are a bit pricey (and there is a set for the FZ7), but as you can see in that vid, they are slick as a whistle (odd expression, lol) Very interesting................ I'm getting ready to install my Andreani cartridges. Kinda what to do it right so I don't have to tear it down again. Been thinking about lighter oil in the compression side but I'm no light weight at 220lbs. I too would prefer something more plush. Maybe Andreani alters the valving and I would still benefit from lighter fluid? Is everyone installing compression on the left and rebound on the right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted December 1, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted December 1, 2015 @rick I used the all balls replacement oil seals and dust seals. They had a similar affect as these do. Maybe not quite as slick tho. They are a definite improvement over stock. We have some damn good weather on the way this week. I'll use this time to play with settings and see how it goes. As it gets colder I'll most likely pull it apart and just fix the thing. Maybe over the next little break at Christmas. I'm off for 4 days. It'll give me a reason to go hide in the garage for while. Lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 All Balls sells the super-slick seals and dealer pricing to you (add shipping). What I do is use Lithium grease (go to Performance Bicycle and get yourself a tube) and slather liberally on the inside and into the groove. Recently I started using Maxima's heavy lithium grease that reminds me of high temp bearing grease without the 'fiber'. $5 for a grapefruit-sized tub full that will last 200 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Use the light oil (10-12cSt@40) in the C leg. Rider weight isn't a factor. FLOW is. @paulibiker, the C-side Andreani piston and valving just needs to be replaced. There were some differences between the FZ07 kit I got a good while ago (June) vs the latest one for the FZ09 (bikes weight ~same) but the pistons haven't changed and the valving is still way off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted December 1, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted December 1, 2015 @paulibiker I installed the rebound on the left. I didn't think it mattered. I weigh about the same at 210-215. I'd rather not change the oil in mine just yet. I'm waiting to see what pattonme comes up with. I'll prob end up tearing it down anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 All Balls sells the super-slick seals and dealer pricing to you (add shipping). What I do is use Lithium grease (go to Performance Bicycle and get yourself a tube) and slather liberally on the inside and into the groove. Recently I started using Maxima's heavy lithium grease that reminds me of high temp bearing grease without the 'fiber'. $5 for a grapefruit-sized tub full that will last 200 years. Yeah, that figures. i bought those All-Balls seals, had then on the bench when i did the cartridges and had a cheap, erm, frugal moment and just used the OE ones half expecting to get back inside to properly fix what you'd already predicted. Funny you mention the grease. After the light silicone wiped away I used a synthetic grease with teflon underneath the dust cover that I had about for lubing bicycle bearings - this stuff http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/bicycle-greases/premium-grease-made-with-teflon-fluoropolymer That's also helped, but dunno how long - weather's been a bit crappy, so I've not done much riding since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etorty Posted December 2, 2015 Share Posted December 2, 2015 I have pistons and some more ideas as to how best to remedy the situation.I'm all ears! ...me too!!! www.MT-Series.it Yamaha Official MT-Series Club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted December 2, 2015 Share Posted December 2, 2015 I'm in Boise for 4 days so it'll have to wait till next week. Man, there are no riders around here (member map)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member rowdy Posted December 3, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted December 3, 2015 I'm in Boise for 4 days so it'll have to wait till next week. Man, there are no riders around here (member map)?I'll be there between Xmas and New Years visiting family. My old stomping ground (and where I learned to love motorcycles). Cruizin's up there too. Great place! Hope you are going to have some fun (but probably not on the bike). Why can't left turners see us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N/A Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 I have pistons and some more ideas as to how best to remedy the situation.I'm all ears! Me too! 007 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulibiker Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Does Matris call for a 120MM air gap? If so, how much fluid did each leg take? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted December 6, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted December 6, 2015 Does Matris call for a 120MM air gap? If so, how much fluid did each leg take? 130mm. I used the motion pro tool to set the level. Can't remember the exact amount for each leg tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulibiker Posted December 6, 2015 Share Posted December 6, 2015 Interesting that Matris and Andreani want different air gaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted December 6, 2015 Share Posted December 6, 2015 Displacement is different. Anything 120 to 150 will work and easy enough to tune Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etorty Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 @fzonly1 : any news? ...different levels in the two legs, or do you've changed the fluid in the "compression" leg, maybe? Any thoughts "on the road"? www.MT-Series.it Yamaha Official MT-Series Club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted December 13, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted December 13, 2015 @fzonly1 : any news? ...different levels in the two legs, or do you've changed the fluid in the "compression" leg, maybe? Any thoughts "on the road"? The weather has been cruddy here for a while but I've managed to get out on her a couple of times. Was waiting to see what @pattonme thought my next move should be to fix that comp leg. So far all I've done is remove some preload and open up the comp setting. It seems a pinch better on rippled pavement. I'm thinking maybe I should try the lighter oil. Maybe I can mess with it over Xmas break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 sorry, man I didn't realize I was on the critical path. Without replacing the piston and redoing the shims, your only recourse is the 10cSt@40 oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted December 13, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted December 13, 2015 sorry, man I didn't realize I was on the critical path. Without replacing the piston and redoing the shims, your only recourse is the 10cSt@40 oil. I guess I can try the oil first and see how that works out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N/A Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 Waiting with bated breath for the result fzonly1... if the change of oil works that's how I'm going to go with my front end... I think! :-/ 007 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted December 13, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted December 13, 2015 I got a 20 dollar Gift certificate from my dealer so I'll def use it toward the oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member norwest Posted December 13, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted December 13, 2015 Try Redlines Like Water fluid as it is the thinnest fluid out there if you are looking for softer damping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted December 13, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted December 13, 2015 Try Redlines Like Water fluid as it is the thinnest fluid out there if you are looking for softer damping. Will do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etorty Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 According to the Peter Verdone's comparison table >>>link here<<<: the stock fork fluid Motorex Racing 5W is 22,60cSt@40° the relevant Racing 2,5W is 15,10cSt@40 maybe you can try with: Silkolene Pro RSF 2,5W[span] [/span][span] [/span]13,60cSt@40° Red Line Extra Light (Blue) [span] [/span]9,80cSt@40° Red Line Like Water! (Clear)[span] [/span]5,50cSt@40° maybe can be too light? @pattonme : in your opinion the PVD table is accurate and reliable even after many years? Do you have some more recent source for the viscosity and all the relevant parameters of the fork fluid of many producers? Edit: according the "Red Line" web site, the viscosity is Red Line Extra light (Blue)[span] [/span]8,60cSt@40° Red Line Like Water! (Clear) 5,40cSt@40° www.MT-Series.it Yamaha Official MT-Series Club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member norwest Posted December 14, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted December 14, 2015 Fluid viscosity affects lo speed more then hi speed so depending on where you want it softer pick a fluid that will provide that. Feeling will change depending on what fluid you have currently and how much softer you want it. Will like water be too light? Maybe but you never know until you try and it is the least expensive change to make. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etorty Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 Nice post, @norwest . I'm thinking at the chance of use all Red Line fork fluid, instead of the Motorex. Maybe the Red Line LighWeight (Yellow) in the "R" leg? The Yellow is 16,00cSt@40°. And the Blue in the "C" leg. In order to have a more softer range for the two legs? Maybe this can be an option that can be evaluated, by installing the entire system? One question, @fzonly1: how much is close the register of the Rebound for you? If you are in the middle, you can have many possibilities to change and to adapt the rebound to many different needs. If you are close to the "all close" position, or to the "all open", maybe a different fluid can be useful. www.MT-Series.it Yamaha Official MT-Series Club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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