Premium Member fzonly1 Posted October 17, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted October 17, 2015 Yup, that's the only way I could get it to line up in the rear. I just took it to the store and now the front seems SUPER bouncy! The bolt has just enough threads to put the nut back on and I went ahead and torqued it to spec as well. seems fine That's just how I installed mine. I did install the OEM nut, but used it more like a lock nut. Yea... the fork becomes more noticeable once the rear is working well. I thought the front was pretty good compared to the stock rear shock, but once I swapped the shock, the front is weak! I'm hoping I get some time in the near future to get the Matris cartridges installed. I'm hoping I install these cartridges correctly. I know someone in here has done the install already. I'll be digging through the threads to make sure I do it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member rowdy Posted October 17, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted October 17, 2015 That's just how I installed mine. I did install the OEM nut, but used it more like a lock nut. Yea... the fork becomes more noticeable once the rear is working well. I thought the front was pretty good compared to the stock rear shock, but once I swapped the shock, the front is weak! I'm hoping I get some time in the near future to get the Matris cartridges installed. I'm hoping I install these cartridges correctly. I know someone in here has done the install already. I'll be digging through the threads to make sure I do it right. Cool! Make sure and post if you get yours done. I'll do the same. Why can't left turners see us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griffin Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 +1 for the post install report. Been mulling over a suspension upgrade for my 07 and this one is high on the list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Bouncy! lol. After you replace the front POS internals, the bouncy just becomes a bad memory. That's a pretty good deal - about what I paid for the Andreani set-up with the group buy and you won't have to go thru the pita of grinding away the flange at the bottom of the fork tubes - not that I'll ever be tempted to put it back to stock. . I just took it to the store and now the front seems SUPER bouncy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted October 20, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted October 20, 2015 Bouncy! lol. After you replace the front POS internals, the bouncy just becomes a bad memory. That's a pretty good deal - about what I paid for the Andreani set-up with the group buy and you won't have to go thru the pita of grinding away the flange at the bottom of the fork tubes - not that I'll ever be tempted to put it back to stock. . I just took it to the store and now the front seems SUPER bouncy! Hahaha! It's front end dive when rolling to a slow stop feels like I'm gonna go over the bars now! Yeah the reason I went with the Matris setup was mainly for the direct swap without modification to the fork. I've been told it's an "easy" task to install this kit. I'm hoping that's true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etorty Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 ...me too! And I hope you can test the new Matris front very soon! www.MT-Series.it Yamaha Official MT-Series Club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member rowdy Posted October 21, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted October 21, 2015 I'm hoping to get sometime before the weather gets too bad to install my cartridges. I don't have a garage and the lifted bike (with stands), won't fit in my bike shed. I should have gotten the removable handle Pit Bull stands but I didn't Why can't left turners see us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member rowdy Posted October 21, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted October 21, 2015 easiest way to get the stubborn bolt out is to compress the snot out of the forks (obviously spring in) and then take an impact driver to it.I want to get my cartridges done, but this is the part that's scaring me. What's the best way to compress the fork? Removed from the bike or on? I bought one of these, but will it work, or would it be better to try compression technique first? ...and as always, pattonme, thanks for your very helpful posts! Why can't left turners see us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator sorkyah Posted October 21, 2015 Global Moderator Share Posted October 21, 2015 easiest way to get the stubborn bolt out is to compress the snot out of the forks (obviously spring in) and then take an impact driver to it.I want to get my cartridges done, but this is the part that's scaring me. What's the best way to compress the fork? Removed from the bike or on? I bought one of these, but will it work, or would it be better to try compression technique first? ...and as always, pattonme, thanks for your very helpful posts! when i removed my forks to send to @pattonme i found i could easily compress them by placing the lower against a 2x4 on the ground and pressing down on the fork cap. seemed to take little to no effort for the one alone i remember seeing a similar tool posted in another thread. ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gremlin Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Keep us posted. I'm about to order this same kit and wondering on how the install is, as well as how she rides?! I'll be eating my popcorn. Honda Grom CB 350 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Well, there is a tapered square tool meant to stop the damper from turning. With the spring out and a long socket extension, I still had to put a lot of pressure using a long bar clamp to keep the damper from turning. Pattonme has suggested using a ratchet strap to compress the fork. That way, the spring puts loads of pressure on the damper at its seat - and your hands are free. It's also helpful if you can clamp the fork (by the caliper dogs with padded clamps. Having an air impact driver. That bolt at the bottom isn't crazy tight as much as it's glued with red loctite and the damper just wants to turn inside. Once that bolt is undone, you would be home free. even with grinding off the flange, that was far less frustrating than dealing with that bottom bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 and @sorkyah's bolts both took multiple tries to get out. 2nd most difficult of all the FZ legs I've done. What I had to do was use the impact to re-tighten (barely) and hit it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 I bought one of these, but will it work, or would it be better to try compression technique first? ...and as always, pattonme, thanks for your very helpful posts! I recommend the cinch-strap compression route. the wedge just rounded off for me. If you going to use the wedge you need a lot of pressure on it to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator sorkyah Posted October 21, 2015 Global Moderator Share Posted October 21, 2015 and @sorkyah's bolts both took multiple tries to get out. 2nd most difficult of all the FZ legs I've done. What I had to do was use the impact to re-tighten (barely) and hit it again.Couldve just been mileage though I had over 14k on those forks matt ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted October 21, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted October 21, 2015 and @sorkyah's bolts both took multiple tries to get out. 2nd most difficult of all the FZ legs I've done. What I had to do was use the impact to re-tighten (barely) and hit it again.Couldve just been mileage though I had over 14k on those forks matt Well my bars almost came loose on their own @ 2400 miles so maybe this will be loose too! Lmao!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 naw, it's production "tolerances", ie there are none. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member rowdy Posted October 22, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted October 22, 2015 I bought one of these, but will it work, or would it be better to try compression technique first? ...and as always, pattonme, thanks for your very helpful posts! I recommend the cinch-strap compression route. the wedge just rounded off for me. If you going to use the wedge you need a lot of pressure on it to work.Can the compression technique be done on the bike pre-removal or does it need to be done after removal? Why can't left turners see us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 ok, to loosen the fork cap, loosen the top triple clamp. Don't take it off, just a couple turns. Then sure, if you want to hook the cinch strap to the brake caliper tab and crank away with the other end say hooked over a tripleclamp or handlebar. Then crawl under the bike with your impact wrench, and zap away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member rowdy Posted October 22, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted October 22, 2015 ok, to loosen the fork cap, loosen the top triple clamp. Don't take it off, just a couple turns. Then sure, if you want to hook the cinch strap to the brake caliper tab and crank away with the other end say hooked over a tripleclamp or handlebar. Then crawl under the bike with your impact wrench, and zap away.Cool, I might try that (and I'm assuming I might need an oil pan handy?). Why can't left turners see us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etorty Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 ...no news? www.MT-Series.it Yamaha Official MT-Series Club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted October 26, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted October 26, 2015 ...no news? Waiting on the pin for my front stand I picked up this weekend to come in from revzilla. Also diggin thru the threads to make sure I have everything I need once I get started. I read something about replacing the inner/outer tube bushings and O ring. Not sure its necessary. Also i want to know if fork tubes must come off first before I go thru the trouble and find out later that I could simply drain from the damper rod bolt at the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 It's the lower bushing that's been wrong. There's no reason to think yours would be correct. Once you dump the old damper rod and top-out spring out, you won't need to get the forks apart to put that new cartridge in, so it would be more work to pull the forks apart to see that lower bushing. The upper one will be OK. I reused both the upper bushing and the seals (though I had new on hand) My lower bushing was incorrect and was already showing visible wear at only 1800 miles! Pulling the forks apart is not a big deal. Even if I didn't have to to do the Andreani kit, I would have. Give Pattonme a shout, he has the proper bushings at a nice price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted October 26, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted October 26, 2015 Thanks @rick , I'll hit him up for sure. So either way it's best I tear it all down to access that lower bushing. Did you use an impact to loosen that damper rod bolt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N/A Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 This is all great info rowdy and fzonly1. We have a suspension guru here in Oz who also happens to be the Matris importer so guess what I'll be ordering today! Thanks again for the photos and feedback. 007 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Thanks @rick , I'll hit him up for sure. So either way it's best I tear it all down to access that lower bushing. Did you use an impact to loosen that damper rod bolt? I don't use my Ingersol Rand hammer very often, but it sure comes in handy for anything that's seen loctite. Just recently used it a couple weeks ago to replace the worn disks on my Aprilia. Ever undo a rear sprocket from cush rubbers? Can be a real pita if you use a regular wrench as the studs want to turn. The impacter spins the nuts right off. BTW, mine is compressor driven, but the plug-in electric ones work pretty well too. Once that lower bolt is loose, undo the cap carefully - it's under tension from the spring so it can be a bit like popping the cork on a champagne bottle - remove the spring, then take out that bolt. Once the bolt is out, the damper thingy will pour out the top. Then pry up the upper dust seal, unseat the metal clip that retains the fork seal and then use the stanchion like a dent puller to pop the seal out of the slider. All that part goes pretty easy. If the end gaps in your lower bushings are closer to 4mm than 1mm (as were mine) , you'll be sure happy you went the extra steps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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