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Check your Bars


fzonly1

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I recently installed my new Woodcraft Clipons, which I love by the way. Upon removal of the digital gauge, I noticed that 2 of the bolts that lock the handle bars in place were loose enough to spin with my fingers. My bike has 2200 miles on it at this point. After a quarter turn of a third bolt the bars spun loose. So basically I was a few miles shy of, "Look ma! No hands!!"
After using thread lock on my new set up, and taking care to torque each bolt, I feel safer (with the handle bars anyway.) Which now leaves me to wonder, what else could be loose? I implore my fellow riders to personally inspect Yout bolts.

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Thanks for the heads-up. Sounds to me like a shoddy delivery prep by the dealer.

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Thank you for this alert!
If I've well understood, the bolts are two of the group of four in the red circle... exact?
 
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www.MT-Series.it
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Thanks for that info! I'll check mine. I always wonder about others assembly work. I use to do assembly work in the semiconductor industry and you catch quite a bit of the new hires "not so great assembly work" when you're close to the inspection line. My handlebars aren't loose but lately they seem to turn more easily than in the past. They steer almost too quick which has me a little concerned. What can cause that? Anyone?

Beemer

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Thanks @etorty for the visual.
Exactly. The 2 closest to the tank were loose. I'm surprised it was still holding up at that point.

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These bolts are a little strange to begin with. Ive never seen a manufacturer select bolts that have holes for cotter pins except not even use them. You cant even fit a pin in them with the stock bars. I originally thought something was out of place when I first saw them.

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My right engine bolt was stripped. Brand new bike. I had to helicoil it. Didn't even bother taking it bake to the dealer " not our problem you must have stripped it " is what you would get from a Yamaha dealer. They are known for it. No care no responsibility. All the bolts on my bike were either too tight or too loose . Many by a LOT. I checked everything when I checked the engine bolts with a torsion wrench ( always do on any new bike) and found the stripped one.
Both the bars bolts AND the nuts that hold the bar clamps were just over finger tight.
 

Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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I've learned that whenever I loosen and reapply any bolts to anything with an engine that I absolutely must go back after the first ride and make sure they're tight. The engine vibration always seems to vibrate something loose a little bit. I find this to be true on my mountain bike is well

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My right engine bolt was stripped. Brand new bike. I had to helicoil it. Didn't even bother taking it bake to the dealer " not our problem you must have stripped it " is what you would get from a Yamaha dealer. They are known for it. No care no responsibility. All the bolts on my bike were either too tight or too loose . Many by a LOT. I checked everything when I checked the engine bolts with a torsion wrench ( always do on any new bike) and found the stripped one. Both the bars bolts AND the nuts that hold the bar clamps were just over finger tight.

I had a similar issue... left engine bolt stripped and primary sprocket cover had 2 bolts stripped. Dealership was able to fix mine under warranty but only after bitchin at em for over an hour saying ive never removed em..... loctite was pretty much the only thing holding it together
 
After the repair i promptly went home and removed em all to install woodcraft sliders and a graves sprocket cover
 
:P

ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by.
 

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I just checked mine, they were tight, thanks for the heads up regardless.
 
Just used a 10mm combination wrench, moved the wheel left and right and you can slip it in under the digital gauge front and back to check all 4 bolts.

Engaging with people that have personality disorders on a message board is like arguing with a rock.

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Dealers are notorious for shoddy assembly, but that is no excuse (even for dealers) for factory errors. However, since we are not willing to pay the exorbitant pricing that would be required to hand check every product that we purchase errors will happen sometimes.
 
And, to be accurate for newbies... you cannot just put a torque wrench on an already torqued bolt/nut and "check it." It takes a different amount of torque to "break loose" the bolt than the torque setting itself. To be torqued correctly the fastener MUST be backed off slightly to allow an accurate read on/of the wrench as it is moving through the torque range. Also, if using Loctite or any friction modifier of any sort (yes, including anti-seize) one must lessen the torque setting by the recommended amount for each product.

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Motorboat McGoat
"I recently installed my new Woodcraft Clipons, which I love by the way."
Which option did you opt for?  The 1" or 1.5" and do you have it up or down?  I'm reaaally considering those!
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"I recently installed my new Woodcraft Clipons, which I love by the way."
Which option did you opt for?  The 1" or 1.5" and do you have it up or down?  I'm reaaally considering those!
I'm running the 1" risers in the "up" position.
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i'm willing to bet they were tight until you loosened the front ones. if you look at the clamp the top doesn't sit flush on the bottom. when you loosen one it takes the tension off the other.  
 

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bmwpowere36m3
i'm willing to bet they were tight until you loosened the front ones. if you look at the clamp the top doesn't sit flush on the bottom. when you loosen one it takes the tension off the other.  
 
 
Correct
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i'm willing to bet they were tight until you loosened the front ones. if you look at the clamp the top doesn't sit flush on the bottom. when you loosen one it takes the tension off the other.  
 
I hadn't loosened anything at that point yet. Only removed the digital gauge to access those 4 bolts.
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Well then that's obviously a miss on the dealer...
Yup, will likely purchase my next bike elsewhere.
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