digitalsteve Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 I've got a HO, so no need to do stacks... but by f@#k does the suspension need doing. Mainly the front! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stickshift Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 On 9/29/2017 at 10:31 AM, digitalsteve said: I've got a HO, so no need to do stacks... but by f@#k does the suspension need doing. Mainly the front! Same here, mine is the same colour as your bike. I have bigger issues with the fork than the shock. I used to do the odd race and would like to do some track days again, but I don't feel the standard suspension is up to it at all. I've ordered a set of emulator valves from Cogent Dynamics in the US: http://www.motocd.com/product/ddc-drop-in-damper-cartridge/ There are favourable reports from most models these are fitted to (including threads on this forum); I can't justify paying extra for cartridges for this bike. Aftermarket shock to come after the front is improved. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitalsteve Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 12 hours ago, stickshift said: Same here, mine is the same colour as your bike. I have bigger issues with the fork than the shock. I used to do the odd race and would like to do some track days again, but I don't feel the standard suspension is up to it at all. I've ordered a set of emulator valves from Cogent Dynamics in the US: http://www.motocd.com/product/ddc-drop-in-damper-cartridge/ There are favourable reports from most models these are fitted to (including threads on this forum); I can't justify paying extra for cartridges for this bike. Aftermarket shock to come after the front is improved. Let me know how you go with it, I'd be interested to hear. I'm trying to work out which direction to go with the suspension.... the Ohlins Nix 22 setup seems damn expensive, but I like their STX46 rear shock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregjet Posted October 3, 2017 Author Share Posted October 3, 2017 (edited) Stickshift, part ( only part) of the reason the forks feel so bad is the soft rear. My personal preference for the back is definitely the base model Ohlins. I love em. If you are not racing that is as much as you need on the rear. I have nitron only because I did it early in the 07's existance and they were the best I could get at the time. Ohlins hadn't made stuff for them yet then. For the front, I put in pattonme's modded showa guts and really like them, but I am no longer up to date with what's current and good , so you need to trawl the suspension threads . Possibly the best suspension info I have ever seen on a forum by a lot. Edited October 3, 2017 by gregjet addition 1 Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitalsteve Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 @gregjet I'm thinking of going for the Ohlins STX46 Street for the rear (https://www.ohlins.com/product/stx46-street-performance-line/) and either Ohlins FSK 100 front (https://www.ohlins.com/product/ohlins-fsk-conventional-forks/) or lashing out and getting the Nix 22 front (https://www.ohlins.com/product/nix-22/) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stickshift Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 (edited) Thanks for the info. Yeah the ohlins STX46 is my preferred shock at this stage, it sounds like a decent upgrade for the road and occasional track day. Cheapest too apart from the Wilbers base model (saw it recently on ebay reduced to $600). The adjustable ride height feature of the base model Nitron is a nice feature, especially for the track. I was recently quoted $784 for the Nitron R1 from a Vic suspension business. Edited October 4, 2017 by stickshift 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregjet Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 Just remember that the road ain't the track. Road dampinf needs way more pleasant with a bit more compliance as it will have to cope with a huge range of conditions. Unless you have some way of changing the stroke velocity damping range , road damping need to be in a lower stroke velocity range or it will feel nasty. On the other hand , set a bike up for the track that way and it will feel sloppy and possibly lock or not get full compliance depending on valving type. For the street the low end Ohlins will do everything you will ever need ( on the road). Forks wise on the road, even fiddlers like me, tend to find a sweet spot for the road and not touch them again, so too many adjusters tend to be extra money for no real use. They DO make the initial setup MUCH easier though, but I am happy to do it the hard way. Nothing to go out of adjustment then. 1 Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitalsteve Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 3 hours ago, gregjet said: Just remember that the road ain't the track. Road dampinf needs way more pleasant with a bit more compliance as it will have to cope with a huge range of conditions. Unless you have some way of changing the stroke velocity damping range , road damping need to be in a lower stroke velocity range or it will feel nasty. On the other hand , set a bike up for the track that way and it will feel sloppy and possibly lock or not get full compliance depending on valving type. For the street the low end Ohlins will do everything you will ever need ( on the road). Forks wise on the road, even fiddlers like me, tend to find a sweet spot for the road and not touch them again, so too many adjusters tend to be extra money for no real use. They DO make the initial setup MUCH easier though, but I am happy to do it the hard way. Nothing to go out of adjustment then. No track for me... If I was doing track, I'd get a dedicated track bike. Sounds like the STX46 rear and FSK100 front is the way to go for a street machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CannonMT07 Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 On 6/28/2016 at 10:36 AM, twotone said: Just a heads up HO Air tubes $35 each The HO intake joint is $15 each ECU $550 Reflash so far $475-495 Then add pipe of choice Air cleaner of choice Would be great if the reflashing wasn't so high Thanks to gregjet for derestricting info. Hey mate new to the forum but looking to derestrict my MT07 Lams. Do you know the part number for the HO air tubes and Intake joint so i can purchase them! Thanks! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klx678 Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 In a side note, I was impressed with the 64 hp. Cycle World's dyno had the 689 U.S. version at 68 hp at the rear wheel. So 64 isn't too shabby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drake86 Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Has anyone just done the throttle restictor plate without doing the other mods? Can this be done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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