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How To: Install a Projector Headlight into Your FZ-07 VIDEO


Allan

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As promised, here is a very poor production quality how-to video on how to install the kit I talk about here, from the Retrofit Source. Sorry about my voice. I definitely do not have one to do this kind of thing. Lol @admin If only I had this video back when you were doing the how-to contest. Haha I think I may have had a chance to win. Unfortunately the times did not line up though. Here is a link to the kit, and here is a list of all the parts I ordered in the kit:
 
-D2S 3.0 Projector X-Lens (Meaning the lens is square) LHD
 
-Morimoto XB Igniter D2S
 
-Gatling Gun 2.0 Square Shroud
 
-Morimoto XB35 35 Watt Ballast
 
-D2S XB 5500K Bulb
 
-H4: Single output motorcycle Wire Harness
 
-Black Retrorubber Sealant
 
-XB LED T10/194 (For parking light)
 
-XC LED Demon Eye RGB
 
-XC LED ColorControl Module and Remote
 
-Demon Eye Bracket D2S 3.0 Adapter
 
-Velcro Patches
 
-Custom Etch Lenses
 
 
 
Enjoy the video and I hope it helps!
 

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VERY Well done sir! Im not planning on doing that although I watched the entire thing. Good on you for leaning forward and being willing to try the mod. It seemed to be a lot of work but, very doable. Thanks for doing the vid and sharing.

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Thank you! It was a lot of work, but it was worth it. It's definitely doable, and now that this video is here, it should be really doable for people because they can see exactly what they need to do. I hope it helps at least one person doing this mod.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Having recently flashed my ECU, I've come to realize that spot is not a very good place to put an HID ballast because from day one of installing it there I noticed the huge amount of heat emanating from the ballast. Once I get back the ECU I need to start thinking of a place to relocate that ballast.

Engaging with people that have personality disorders on a message board is like arguing with a rock.

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nice tutorial ! you make better than me
Thanks! Don't sell yourself short dude. I actually referenced your write up A LOT when installing mine. You helped me in putting this together.
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This is amazing. Thank you for putting in so much time and effort into the detailed steps.This is my next mod
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Honestly I think I have close to 17 hours in just editing the video. I don't have any fancy video editing software so I did this entirely in Windows Movie Maker. Lol That took a long time to render the videos and actually chop and trim them using just that program. I'm glad people are getting use from it though. If you have any questions when you go to do this, just PM me or post in my build thread. I'dbe happy to help.
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Great tutorial, very well explained and your voice is certainly fine.
Well thank you very much. I thought my voice sounded silly. Lol I'm glad you didn't think so though! Haha
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Having recently flashed my ECU, I've come to realize that spot is not a very good place to put an HID ballast because from day one of installing it there I noticed the huge amount of heat emanating from the ballast. Once I get back the ECU I need to start thinking of a place to relocate that ballast.
What brand of ballast are you using? These Morimotos generally don't run too hot. I mean they do rise in the temps, but I don't see them being a problem in that spot. Also there is a ton of air flow through that spot from the air scoops on the side plastic vents, so it is properly vented.
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  • 3 weeks later...
squidsquiddly

 

This is amazing. Thank you for putting in so much time and effort into the detailed steps.This is my next mod
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Honestly I think I have close to 17 hours in just editing the video. I don't have any fancy video editing software so I did this entirely in Windows Movie Maker. Lol That took a long time to render the videos and actually chop and trim them using just that program. I'm glad people are getting use from it though. If you have any questions when you go to do this, just PM me or post in my build thread. I'dbe happy to help.
Wow. Hahaha I can appreciate it that much more. I'll make sure to do that. Thanks again.
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I have an ABS model, can you think of any other good locations for the ballast, or is it not really feasible?
Oh it's definitely feasible. Honestly, anywhere where you can find room it will work. The ballasts in this kit don't really run hot at all. I was on a 45-plus min ride and when I finished, I reached my hand in and touched the ballast and it was only a little warm. Not even hot at all. That could partly be due to the fact that this specific position I put mine in is very well vented so there is a lot of air flow keeping it cool, but I honestly don't think heat is an issue with these ballasts. The real problem is the igniter chord. It is just over a foot long so that is the problem you would be facing. You'd have to put it somewhere where the igniter cable could go from the ballast to the back of the bulb. It would have to be somewhere near your abs box, or on the other side near that heat sink. Like I said, anywhere you can find room. You can secure them down with zip-ties on the 8-point connection bracket (I took it off so that's why you don't see it in the video). That's how I secured the ballast's in my GF's car down and I haven't had any issues with that.
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  • 2 months later...

Allan, can you elaborate on the bracket you mention at the end of the video? Awesome vid, I plan on doing an HID retrofit for my bike in the future.

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Allan, can you elaborate on the bracket you mention at the end of the video? Awesome vid, I plan on doing an HID retrofit for my bike in the future.
So if you use this kit, what you will find will happen is when you seal everything back up, in order for the projector lens to not be touching the plastic lens of the headlight, you will need to him the projector down. The beam will be very low when the projector turns on, so low in fact that the high beam can act as a low beam. A bracket needs to be made to actually tilt the whole headlight assembly up to raise the beam. So what I mean is, that bottom bar that the whole headlight assembly sits on that I point to in the video needs to be pushed forward by about half an inch to make the beam higher. You can do this by just getting a 1/8 in piece of aluminium  and drilling holes that are the proper distance and using it as a spacer to move the assembly forward. I hope this clarifies things. Let me know if you have anymore questions.
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Allan, can you elaborate on the bracket you mention at the end of the video? Awesome vid, I plan on doing an HID retrofit for my bike in the future.
So if you use this kit, what you will find will happen is when you seal everything back up, in order for the projector lens to not be touching the plastic lens of the headlight, you will need to him the projector down. The beam will be very low when the projector turns on, so low in fact that the high beam can act as a low beam. A bracket needs to be made to actually tilt the whole headlight assembly up to raise the beam. So what I mean is, that bottom bar that the whole headlight assembly sits on that I point to in the video needs to be pushed forward by about half an inch to make the beam higher. You can do this by just getting a 1/8 in piece of aluminium  and drilling holes that are the proper distance and using it as a spacer to move the assembly forward. I hope this clarifies things. Let me know if you have anymore questions.
Thanks, that does clarify. Again, great work documenting and showing how to do the retrofit!
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So if you use this kit, what you will find will happen is when you seal everything back up, in order for the projector lens to not be touching the plastic lens of the headlight, you will need to him the projector down. The beam will be very low when the projector turns on, so low in fact that the high beam can act as a low beam. A bracket needs to be made to actually tilt the whole headlight assembly up to raise the beam. So what I mean is, that bottom bar that the whole headlight assembly sits on that I point to in the video needs to be pushed forward by about half an inch to make the beam higher. You can do this by just getting a 1/8 in piece of aluminium  and drilling holes that are the proper distance and using it as a spacer to move the assembly forward. I hope this clarifies things. Let me know if you have anymore questions.
Thanks, that does clarify. Again, great work documenting and showing how to do the retrofit!
No problem. I'm glad someone is getting use out of it! Lol
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