Goschie Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 I recently purchased some shorty levers (cheap ebay ones) and attempted to install them. The brake lever fit perfectly, but the clutch lever had some issues. When I took the OEM clutch lever off I noticed a massive amount of grease and had a lot of difficulty taking it off. I had to apply a lot of force just to get it off the pivot point. I tried my best not to damage the clutch cable. Once removed, the bushing/collar fell right out of the OEM clutch lever. I attempted to install the shorty lever with the OEM bushing/collar, but I could not get it to fit. At this point I noticed some shaved metal from the perch and the bushing itself, most likely caused by the removal of the OEM clutch lever. I grew frustrated, the levers I have installed in the past on other bikes were quick and easy. I attempted to apply some force to see if perhaps the perch was misshapen, but to no avail. It would not get to the position for the bolt to slip in. I removed the bushing/collar, the shorty lever fit perfectly. I attempted to reinstall the OEM clutch lever. I could not install it with the bushing/collar in place, however, I could install it without the bushing/collar. I wish I could use the clutch lever without that bushing/collar, however, I cannot. I feel there is two options... use my warranty, or purchase a new perch and bushing/collar hoping it fixes the issue. What do you guys think? "I'm not reckless. I am incredibly skilled with a bit of flair." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 When you say "perch" are you referring to the slot in the bar control bit where the lever pivots? Sounds to me like that slot was cast too small or has sprung inward a bit and that's preventing the bushing form sliding back in. This is also why you had trouble getting the OE lever out - friction was grabbing hold of the bushing. If that's what's going on you have 2 choices (and I don't know that replacing that casting will help - they might all be tight) You can file/grind a small amount of material from the end of the bushing - not so much it's shorter than the width of the lever, but enough to allow it to slip into the casting. Or try and spread the casting a bit before inserting the lever Before you do either, put the lever w/bushing in place into the freezer for 30 mins or an hour. it might shrink just enough to allow you to get it back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goschie Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 Rick, Thanks for the advice. I didn't have time today to file the bushing down, but ill try the freezer trick. After I get it all fixed gonna take it over to my mechanic and have him look at it make sure its good to go. Maybe even have him check my front fork bushings as it seems to be an issue for a lot of bikes. "I'm not reckless. I am incredibly skilled with a bit of flair." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 It'll only take a 1/4mm difference between the length of that bushing and the width of the slot it goes into to keep it from going in. Especially if the bushing has sharp edges You can also try beveling the top and bottom edge of the bushing just a bit on one side and then facing that bevel towards to slot before pushing it in. That way, the bushing will still be full length, but you might be able to get it started in with a bit of a tap Oh, I would not take those forks apart w/o the proper lower bushing in hand 1st. And the Yamaha part will be as wrong as the one that's likely in there already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goschie Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 The lever pivot point had indentation's where the old lever was. I am not sure if because of the oversize collar, heat, and/or combined with friction wear over and over again. I filed down the lever pivot point and the collar. Unfortunately it still wouldn't fit right for the bolt to go in, so I had to cake on grease and mallet it into place. The bolt itself had some deformation as well so even when everything was in place it still had a hard time bolting down. Over all, a very tedious and stupid process. Local Yamaha dealer was no help, kept saying my warranty was invalid because I personally took the old lever off. The pull is a bit stiff, but after I adjusted the free play, I like the feel and pull of the shorty lever better than my old lever. "I'm not reckless. I am incredibly skilled with a bit of flair." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Don't see how removing the clutch lever could possibly violate the warranty. I'm thinking someone way overtightened that thru bolt and distorted the slot on the control. Those bushings should be just a nice slip fit. Swap it out to a new lever and that shouldn't change. My warranty is up in another week. Not gonna lose any sleep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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