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xdr

Chain Adjustment, Right Side Axle Mount Uneven

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xdr
Not sure if I'm using proper terminology here.. Adjusted my chain so there was 4 marks on each side and the chain slack is at 2.1". When I go to tighten down the axle nut, the right side mount shifts (tried to hold it by hand) and is off centered. It looks like it may be hitting the swing arm and may not be flush. The left side is centered in the swing arm. You can see it is at the top right of the mount. Also, torque wise, I torqued the axle nut to 76 ft-lb, then the adjusters I snugged them up and tightened the lock nuts to them.
 
9DA96624-4076-4ED4-9D94-E7F8CD507418_zpsunjwrofy.jpg
36790FB0-6ADE-4BA2-B69E-77C70AE67EF1_zps1ajppj9s.jpg
 

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databyter
I have no answer, but want to follow this. My chain was adjusted by the dealer and the side marks are off (maybe they had the same problem and no forum to answer it).
 
Also the other way, measuring from the swingarm pivot to the axle bolt seems to indicate my rear wheel is not aligned properly. But some people have said they have aligned with string and the whole nine yards and the marks were off when it was aligned, so I am not sure we should trust the marks, except perhaps as a start from scratch assembly starting ballpark point.
 
I've heard it is close enough to just use the marks, but we want it right, not close enough, right?
 
It almost sounds like your axle is trying to center and align itself, despite the marks, which depending on castings and welds might be slightly off..
 
I was thinking about doing the string alignment method, (look for many examples on Youtube) but then I was thinking, why not just use a long straight-edge and spare yourself the agony of tying strings to stools and whatnot. The only downside would be a needed partner as one would have to hold the straightedge, and the other measure the gap to the front tire side.
 
Sorry to be longwinded, but I am new to motorcycles, and this whole rear wheel alignment thing has got me frustrated and I have been too busy working to spend the time to actually do my own chain adjustment and check it. But if the dealer is to be believed, that they did it right, then my marks do not line up either, even though I suppose my rear wheel is supposed to be aligned, if they did it right.
 
Good luck, probably get some good answers tommorow.

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norcal616
I always use the hash marks for eyeballing but i use a tool made by Motion Pro that uses a clamp that goes on the rear sprocket and a metal rod that points toward the front sprocket...it will show me how true the chain is...it's never failed me once because it showed the rear sprocket moved when I went to tighting the axle bolt so I compensated for the movement and now when I fighting the axle bolt the chain "trues" up...
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databyter
I always use the hash marks for eyeballing but i use a tool made by Motion Pro that uses a clamp that goes on the rear sprocket and a metal rod that points toward the front sprocket...it will show me how true the chain is...it's never failed me once because it showed the rear sprocket moved when I went to tighting the axle bolt so I compensated for the movement and now when I fighting the axle bolt the chain "trues" up...
Ahh, so if you move a mill forward when tightening, just adjust for a mill backwards, when you tighten you will find your final adjustment. I like it, and I am SURE the dealer would not do that, they lubed my TIRE, marred my bolts, and overtightened my chain. I had to insist they do the throttle body check since they are SUPPOSED to for this model according to Yamaha, and now I am torn between hoping they actually did and didn't just fake it, and hoping they didn't since everything else they did seemed to have been done by somebody who knew nothing about bikes or didn't care.

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norcal616
http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0048-Chain-Alignment/dp/B000GTVOJQ... This tool is a life saver...I use a different method to reference my chain slack by putting 3 fingers between the swing arm and chain where the rubber chain guide is closet to the rear sprocket...finding a good dealership or shop is like playing Russian roulette...I have one shop for my fluids/ parts, one shop for suspension and one place for major repairs or machine work...

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bmwpowere36m3
The axle block rotating is some what "normal" due to the design and tolerances of the parts. Before tightening the axle nut, set the axle blocks square/parallel/centered within the swingarm-ends and line up the hash-marks and then tighten the axle nut. Usually it'll rotate a little and make things "look" slightly off. Its not the best design in my book... seems like they emphasized looks over function to a degree.
 
A good tip before tightening the axle nut, stick a screwdriver or small wrench between the chain and rear sprocket. Rotate the wheel to trap either between the chain and sprocket. This forces the wheel forward, tight against the axle adjusters and removes some slop in the setup. Tighten axle nut, rotate wheel the opposite way to release aforementioned "tool".
 
The swingarm hash marks can be off and the design of the axle block makes it difficult to get a great alignment (parallax when looking at those little fingers in the corners of the block). Using a chain alignment tool (such as the Motion Pro) is one good way to double check alignment. I did the "string-method" to align the front/rear wheel and found my hash marks are off by ~ 1/2 a mark (side-side).

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bmwpowere36m3
I have no answer, but want to follow this. My chain was adjusted by the dealer and the side marks are off (maybe they had the same problem and no forum to answer it).  
Also the other way, measuring from the swingarm pivot to the axle bolt seems to indicate my rear wheel is not aligned properly. But some people have said they have aligned with string and the whole nine yards and the marks were off when it was aligned, so I am not sure we should trust the marks, except perhaps as a start from scratch assembly starting ballpark point.
 
I've heard it is close enough to just use the marks, but we want it right, not close enough, right?
 
It almost sounds like your axle is trying to center and align itself, despite the marks, which depending on castings and welds might be slightly off..
 
I was thinking about doing the string alignment method, (look for many examples on Youtube) but then I was thinking, why not just use a long straight-edge and spare yourself the agony of tying strings to stools and whatnot. The only downside would be a needed partner as one would have to hold the straightedge, and the other measure the gap to the front tire side.
 
Sorry to be longwinded, but I am new to motorcycles, and this whole rear wheel alignment thing has got me frustrated and I have been too busy working to spend the time to actually do my own chain adjustment and check it. But if the dealer is to be believed, that they did it right, then my marks do not line up either, even though I suppose my rear wheel is supposed to be aligned, if they did it right.
 
Good luck, probably get some good answers tommorow.
Using the string-method on my bike, hash-marks aligned = rear wheel ~ 7.5 mm "off" from front.  I didn't notice any odd-handling qualities.  Now the hash-marks are off by ~1/2 a mark (after adjustment) and the rear wheel is within 1 mm of the front.
Strings are a "pain", but finding two long straight-edges is as well or $$.  I've seen guys using 2x4s or some kind of lumber, but having done a lot of remodeling as well.... I wouldn't trust lumber as it can be twisted, warped, bowed easily 1/4" (which would be totally fine for framing).
 
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RobMoore
I just use a soft tape measure and make the distance from the front edge of the swingarm cap to the center of the axle the same on both sides down to the mm.

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bmwpowere36m3
I just use a soft tape measure and make the distance from the front edge of the swingarm cap to the center of the axle the same on both sides down to the mm.
That's assuming the swingarm is symmetrical or the ends are the same length... not saying they aren't (haven't measured).  What can you measure down to, a 1/16"?  Its gotta be hard to get the tape line up with the middle of the axle (especially on the brake side, due to recess).
 

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RobMoore
The swingarm pivots from the same place on each side of the bike, and I use the metric side of the tape, so down to the milimeter. My only adjustment thus far it was 557mm from the lead edge of the swingarm mount to the center of the axle. The lead edge of the swingarm was easier for me to be consistent with than the center.
 
Since the axle rod is hollow, you can also put a small rod through it like a rifle cleaning rod to help find the center on the brake side due to the recess.

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xdr
Well I went and messed with it some more. Its as good as it can get with the alignment marks. Once you torque the nut above ~40 ft-lb it rotates the right block. Tried knocking it with a rubber mallet with no luck.
 
On another note... measuring chain slack, is it from the top of the link or the valley of the link? I'm at 2.1 at the top of the link, which is a lot better than the 2.4 from the factory/dealer. Also measured with slight pressure (one finger) to take up slack.

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bmwpowere36m3
Spec is from the middle of the chain, so subtract ~7 mm from spec if measuring to top of chain (which is ~14 mm in height).

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xdr
Spec is from the middle of the chain, so subtract ~7 mm from spec if measuring to top of chain (which is ~14 mm in height).
Ok.. so on this photo it would be the red line? I measured from the black line. If that is so that means it was off even more than I had thought.
 
chain-slack_zpspflbcgr4.jpg
 

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bmwpowere36m3
Spec is from the middle of the chain, so subtract ~7 mm from spec if measuring to top of chain (which is ~14 mm in height).
Ok.. so on this photo it would be the red line? I measured from the black line. If that is so that means it was off even more than I had thought. 
chain-slack_zpspflbcgr4.jpg

Yes, 
Screen%20Shot%202015-07-27%20at%2010.23.26%20PM.png
 
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databyter
I just use a soft tape measure and make the distance from the front edge of the swingarm cap to the center of the axle the same on both sides down to the mm.
That's assuming the swingarm is symmetrical or the ends are the same length... not saying they aren't (haven't measured).  What can you measure down to, a 1/16"?  Its gotta be hard to get the tape line up with the middle of the axle (especially on the brake side, due to recess).

This is true, I found it very hard and a very subjective measurement doing it this way, because due to the FZ-07 design there is really no way to locate the center of the axle and pivot point without a lot of work and a little guessing. However if my measurements are to be believed my rear tire is turned to the left significantly, although to the eye my chain doesn't seem to be off by much. I may invest in that Motion Pro tool to double check, I don't want to wear out my chain/sprocket. 
More importantly tho I want my damn tires aligned properly before I start taking road trips up in the twisties because I do like a challenge and to push it just a bit and I don't need any dangerous handicaps while I am learning skills.

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