etorty Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 And... @rick: the new tyres will br the Bridgestone T30 Evo! ;) www.MT-Series.it Yamaha Official MT-Series Club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 Lordy, $70 per nut. I think I'll buy a bag of standard nuts and change them every time I look sideways at my bike... At least you have one BLING of a nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 And... @rick: the new tyres will br the Bridgestone T30 Evo! ;)I still have a bit of life left in the 023 on the back of my Aprilia. I'll be curious t hear how you like the T30. Also interested to hear how the install goes. Just by the feel of it, I'm thinking it's gonna be a bit of a fight. And I've changed a whole lot of tires. Pretty sure you need to use anti-seize (preferably Nickel based) with Ti hardware to keep it from cold welding (galvanic chemistry) itself to another metal. But that nut is a beauty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 Lordy, $70 per nut. I think I'll buy a bag of standard nuts and change them every time I look sideways at my bike... At least you have one BLING of a nut. Hmm, 70 Euro, so right now 77 buckos. and it'll decrease unsprung weight, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etorty Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 Yes, this nut is expensive, but I hope I can forget the problem that I had with the original nut. For your information, the new nut (from a new - unsold at this time - 07) have the same shape that the old one. The Yamaha mechanic have seen this detail, and they've told me that the problem maybe will be the same between some time. Basically for this reason I've decided to buy the GT nut. Thanks to the MT-Series Club, I've obtained a little discount, and the price is a little less than the regular: 66€ shipped. You can see in the photos that I've done today during the tyre change. The clip is ok in this side:http://i.imgur.com/xwOqFtb.jpg and in this side is really flat:http://i.imgur.com/LqXblht.jpg When the GT nut will be in my hands, I'll go to my Yamaha dealer in order to install it with the anti-seize : I don't want to have any problem with the warranty... www.MT-Series.it Yamaha Official MT-Series Club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 So that sharp edge digs in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member norcal616 Posted August 1, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted August 1, 2015 They are designed to be " used" once, the trick is to loosen em just enough to adjust the axle...I took mine off and replaced it with a normal nyloc but... 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 They are designed to be " used" once, the trick is to loosen em just enough to adjust the axle...I took mine off and replaced it with a normal nyloc but... That maybe so… but my experience says they can be reused many times without issues. That's not to say there might not be an issue with these specific fuji-nuts, supplier-wise/installation/environmental. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 So that sharp edge digs in? Yes, those little "tangs" dig into the root of the threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ornery Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 The whole point is the fuji nut doesn't just vibrate and spin off the bolt if it happens to get loose. From crown nuts and cotter pins, to ny-lock nuts, Loctite, lock washers or jam nuts, this is the same goal. There is certainly more than one way to accomplish it, some better than others. If you've had your fuji nut off without issue, chances are it won't be a problem in the future. I'd keep using that same one, since it's tried & true. As long as it has resistance it's doing its job. I lubricated mine when I removed it, to avoid those tabs folding under from friction. It still has plenty of resistance. 1 “The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.” — Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 I tend to use a penetrating fluid ( I have this stuff called Rust Reaper that works great) on everything that's not yet been removed from the factory. Always seems to make life easer. Wonder if that's why mine didn't bind up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ornery Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 Might want to add some Wurth products to your arsenal: [video src=https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=489&v=Pka4XOgdzxE] I use the 2000 on my car door hinges and on that fuji nut. “The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.” — Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 Might want to add some Wurth products to your arsenal: [video src=https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=489&v=Pka4XOgdzxE] I use the 2000 on my car door hinges and on that fuji nut. Same here.... very good, but expensive stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 That Rust Reaper stuff is just a penetrant. It was some semi-home brew that had a bit of a cult following about 5 years ago. Doesn't look like it's sold anymore, but you can still find testimonials. Not heard of the Wurth products before. Will keep that in mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 I like PBlaster for penetrant, I think Wurth makes one too. If PBlaster doesn't work, then I usually resort to an oxy-torch for heat and/or pneumatic impact gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proyamaha Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 I also had the same issue with the self-locking nut, got siezed w/o even taking out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5tonfan Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 Dealer replaced my side plates axle and nut when they did the last service. They had to cut the nut off in the end, but the axle and side plates were already damaged. Starting to consider the titanium nut when funds are available. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Has anyone tried one of these https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainless-steel-axle-nut-18mm-x-1-50mm-af27mm-rear-wheel.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Hmm, I thought I had posted the probolt URL before... Bonus you can get it in TI and colored for only $40. I'll put this here: www.probolt-usa.com/stainless/stainless-steel-motorcycle-special-parts/stainless-steel-axle-nuts-bolts.html but more specifically:M18x1.5 from proBolt-USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChicagoAJ Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Has anyone tried one of these https://www.probolt-usa.com/stainless-steel-axle-nut-18mm-x-1-50mm-af27mm-rear-wheel.html What's to stop it from backing off? I mean, it probably wouldn't but it's self locking from the factory for a reason I would assume. I really wish our bikes had the cotter pin through the axle set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 I have axle sliders on both wheels that run thru the axles - they would prevent the nut from loosening very far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 Hmm, I thought I had posted the probolt URL before... Bonus you can get it in TI and colored for only $40.I remembered seeing the titanium version - The one's stainless and quite a bit less dear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChicagoAJ Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 After loosening my axle nut yesterday that I've only had off once completely in the past, it was still buttery-smooth when loosening and re-torquing. This was the 5th time I've had to loosen it and tighten it. I did notice that one of the metal tangs on the nut is over a thread and the other tang is behind a thread. I'm not sure if this is how the nut is designed but it would make sense (I think). It might just be the angle the nut finally stopped in, but it's still in good shape for having to loosen/tighten it a bunch so far. Both tangs are sit nice and flush in the respective threads and haven't given me any issues yet. I do have a back-up on hand, the next time I loosen it I'm going to replace it - just in case. And if I do ever have to grind the nut or axle off I'll get the black swingarm adjustment plates from the armor gray model to replace my broken stuff. Hoping I never have to do that though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrien Posted October 20, 2019 Share Posted October 20, 2019 Tried to remove my 2017 axle nut for the first time. Threads on axle came off with nut ! Can't believe Yamaha would use a nut like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Evill_Ed Posted October 20, 2019 Premium Member Share Posted October 20, 2019 On 7/25/2015 at 1:40 PM, fflier9 said: I'm having trouble finding a 27mm castle nut. Where could I find out what size the threads are for the end of the axle? https://www.belmetric.com/cn18x15clz-castle-nut-zinc-p-3059.html?cPath=3_558 Suzuki SV650 nut works, same thread size and pitch. Here’s the one that I used. Suzuki 08314-40187 - NUT | Partzilla.com Buy Suzuki 08314-40187 - NUT. This OEM part is guaranteed by Suzuki's limited part warranty ✓ FREE Shipping on qualified orders - Partzilla.com Ed 1 2 "Do not let this bad example influence you, follow only what is good" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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