Projector Retrofit Kit from The Retrofit Source

[garrim]

Good point haha, sorry.

[Allan]

Good point haha, sorry.

All is good man. Haha Looking back on it though, the Halo on the shroud looked pretty tacky. I think it will look better with just the color matched Yamaha blue shroud.

[Allan]

So I basically finished the Retrofit. I just have to physically move my entire headlight unit up a few degrees because the light's cutoff line is very low to the ground. I can't use the headlight adjusters because the projector is touching the plastic lens at its current position so I can't raise it up anymore within the housing. Not a big deal and after all the problems I had with this, this is an easy fix. Anyways, here are some pics of the finished thing. Sorry about the terrible pics. I'll take better one tomorrow probably. Hope you enjoy and the video will be here when I make the bracket. It looks so good and hopefully it will be durable as well. Thanks for tuning in with me here. I'll keep you updated as I get things going better.

 

 

 

[Allan]

So here are some pictures of what the beam pattern looks like. I have a couple of notes to add though. The height of the light output is not what it should be, it is lower until I get a bracket made. That is why the road isn't lit up to the extent it should be in the second picture. I really just took the pictures so you could see the sharpness of the cutoff pattern. I took a high beam shot too, but my Sena didn't have it on the memory card when I came inside. Second off, the two swirls on either side of the beam with the second picture are from the laser etched Yamaha FZ-07 logo I had put in the lens. If you did not get that, the swirls would be gone. It really isn't as bad as it looks in the picture though and I think the design is worth it, as it really isn't that much of a hindrance.
Day/Dusk shot:
 

 
Night shot:
 

 

[thomascrown]

It's much nicer than the cyclops I have, but the cut off is a serious issue.

[Allan]

It's much nicer than the cyclops I have, but the cut off is a serious issue.

You mean how low it is? I know. I tested it out though, if you just move the bottom of the headlight (where it sits in that little cradle) forward about an inch, it completely solves the lowness because it will raise the beam up, and it doesn't look any different from the way the headlight sits on the bike currently either. I will be fabbing up a bracket soon. All it will take is a 1/8" piece of aluminium with 4 holes drilled and the problem is solved.

[booboobusfz07]

Would using the round light give more clearance or maybe using the h1 kit

[Allan]

Would using the round light give more clearance or maybe using the h1 kit

The Morimoto Mini H1 6.0 would definitely give more clearence in the housing, as it is almost a cenitmeter shorter. However, your light output will not be as good as the D2S. The round light for the D2S is actually larger in diameter and width, but the same depth. I don't think getting the round lens would offer any more clearance, I actually think it would make the process more difficult, but I can't say that for sure.

[Allan]

I know some people were asking about the Mini H1 6.0s compared to the Mini D2S that was in this kit. I recently got a set of "B-Stock" Morimoto Mini H1 Projectors from The Retrofit Source. If you don't know, B-Stock just basically means that there is something wrong with the item that makes it not in perfect condition to sell at full price. It can be anything from a more serious thing like a chipped or cracked lens, to something that is just a visual imperfection that has no effect on performance like the assembly has a scratch on it and it just looks bad. It is a gamble really. You don't know what you will get that's wrong or in what condition. These projectors new are $120 for a pair. The B-Stock ones are only $50 for the pair. So I decided to take a chance and get the B-Stock. I got really lucky and got a pair that only had cosmetic problems where the chrome bubbled at the top of the housing. See picture:
 

 
Other than that, I tested them out very thoroughly and there was nothing else wrong with them as far as I can tell. That bubbling won't even be seen once the shrouds go on the projector. Talk about a steal!
 
Anyways, I took some comparison pictures of a Mini D2S 3.0 I had laying around and these Mini H1s so you could see the size difference between the two. D2S on left, H1 on right. Take a look.
 

 

 
As you can see in the above picture, the distance from the front of the lens to where the threading starts on both projectors is actually the same. Where the Mini H1 (on left) is smaller is actually the length of the threaded section. So the space it would take up in the headlight lengthwise would actually be the same. However, if you look at these next two pictures...
 

 

 
You can see that widthwise, the Mini H1 (Right) is smaller than the D2S (Left). This would make some aspects of instalation easier, like shroud trimming and left/right adjustments. However, since the actual distance from the lens to the start of the threading is the same on both, you would still most likely have the same low cutoff problem, but I can't say that for sure, as I have not put a Mini H1 in my headlight.
 

 
These are both excellent projectors and although the D2S will have better light output than the H1, the price of the H1s in the condition I got them in, it was an amazing deal. Hope this helps anyone who is interested in this.

[lldemonll]

Any updates on this? I've got a spare MiniD2S sitting around after taking it off my supermoto. Curious how this turned out!
 
Edit: I'm an idiot.  I hate there's no page counter at the bottom of pages...
 
I may take mine apart and toss my MiniD2S in there, I miss my projectors...

[Allan]

Any updates on this? I've got a spare MiniD2S sitting around after taking it off my supermoto. Curious how this turned out! 
Edit: I'm an idiot.  I hate there's no page counter at the bottom of pages...
 
I may take mine apart and toss my MiniD2S in there, I miss my projectors...

I would do it. Just remember that the beam will be very low and you WILL have to make a bracket to raise it up to make your headlight normal height. I don't know when you wanted to do this, but if you wait, I will be posting a very poor quality how-to video! 

[Allan]

So for those of you who care and have been patient for the how-to video, it will be done within a week. It will be posted by the second of September. Thanks for being patient with me! Haha

[glowsticknic]

Lurking...

[Allan]

The video is LIVE guys!!! Go here to check it out!

[rweakley]

The kit comes with a bracket to line up with the hole for the H4 bulb right? Was that an issue with the stock bulb being slightly twisted In the reflector bowl? If you look at the stock bulb straight on from the front, you can notice the bottom of the bulb is not parallel to the deck.

[Allan]

The kit comes with a bracket to line up with the hole for the H4 bulb right? Was that an issue with the stock bulb being slightly twisted In the reflector bowl? If you look at the stock bulb straight on from the front, you can notice the bottom of the bulb is not parallel to the deck.

Yeah. That becomes a problem. Your cut-off will be crooked if you leave it in the stock H4 slot like that. You have to totally get rid of the stock H4 holder by grinding it down with a dremel. I didn't even use the H4 ring because it really serves no purpose at that point besides a spacer, and I needed as much room for the lock nut to tighten as possible.

[tjwrnglr]

Quick question. Does the projector lens hit the headlight cover or does the shroud hit it?
 
Did you try installing the projector without the big white nylon washer? that might have given you a bit more room.

[fznoob]

Was there ever a video for the head light? I'm very interested in your set up.

[Allan]

Was there ever a video for the head light? I'm very interested in your set up.

Look 5 posts up from this one and you should see I posted a link to my how-to video

[fznoob]

ah yeah i found it like 2 mins after I posted lol sorry,
 
thanks