Guest GringoStarr Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 No problem Gringo, I think I figured out my issue anyway. I sped up my whole shifting process and now have a much better "success" rate. Personally I haven't had that issue with the idling, but this is also the first street bike I've ridden regularly (picked up an old Radian last year that never quite ran right for me) so the engine braking on this bike is normal to me. I can only imagine what it'll be like when I hop on a friends triple or something. I'll actually need to use the brakes I didn't mean there were any problems with the bike, just a riding style quirk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rewplayff Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 I had a two stroke before this bike so the engine breaking really caught me by surprise. I'm also really bad at Rev matching when downshifting. I always end up pogo-ing. Just don't have the hang of twisting the throttle and keeping even pressure on the lever. Although I do find it easier under heavier breaking. I'm guessing it's a matter of practice? Is there anything I could do to help with that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GringoStarr Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 I had a two stroke before this bike so the engine breaking really caught me by surprise. I'm also really bad at Rev matching when downshifting. I always end up pogo-ing. Just don't have the hang of twisting the throttle and keeping even pressure on the lever. Although I do find it easier under heavier breaking. I'm guessing it's a matter of practice? Is there anything I could do to help with that? I'm not an expert, but I sort of practiced just sitting on the bike trying to commit it to muscle memory. I would get better at rev matching first by practicing downshifting only one gear when there isn't a car or stop sign in front. It's better to use up some brake pad than pogo on something slick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GringoStarr Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 I actually just bought some shorty levers with the adjusters on them. So I'll chuck em on when I'm back home. This may be a dumb question but what exactly do the adjusters do? Do they move the levers out more or something to that effect? I've seen a couple where you can flip them up and down but the ones purchased just have the run of the mill 6 point adjustment settings. I've been really improving on shifting after using these effective techniques that are posted here. So thank you very much FZ 07 Forum squad! What the clicker did for me, just for example, was allow me to adjust the cable so that the clutch is fully disengaged right when the lever touches the grip (I use four fingers.) Imagine the stock lever with the cable adjusted like that--it would be flopping around out there when fully released. The clicker then simply picks up that slack and now I don't have to reach for it or "cover" it constantly (maybe you want to with the shortys though.) Be careful when installing the clicker because you can pull the cable too far and break the plastic piece down on the linkage. As an aside, the clickers didn't work the way I expected. I thought they were progressive so that when clicked closer to the grip they'd pull the same amount of cable and not need much adjustment. Negatory. You're still limited by the other adjustment points (I can't figure out how that wheel works but it does ) and/or the cable length. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member craigm Posted August 7, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted August 7, 2015 I feel like my shifting has improved a lot in the last couple of months. Particularly now I've got the hang of rev matching. But taking a passenger out for the first time last week was an eye opener. Anything but the smoothest shift ended up with a tapping of our helmets. I don't know if it's harder to be smooth with a passenger on board, or I just thought I was smoother than I really am! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frabus Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Just to add my experience, after a year of owning and riding my first bike (my FZ 07). I found the biggest improvement to smooth my shifts was adjusting the bike controls to fit me as well as adjusting clutch cable slack. Although shorty adjustable levers and synthetic oil resulted in noticeable improvements. The simplest and least expensive modification made the biggest difference. By adjusting the angle of the levers on the handlebars and moving the shift lever position, I now find myself shifting smoother than ever.In addition, adjusting the clutch cable for slack has allowed me to perform smoother and faster two finger upshifts. Of course like anything else practice is critical. Rev matching is now the next skill I am trying to master. Hope this information can help other new riders before deciding on pricier options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ralph Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 As farbus says adjust the controls, set the gear lever so it's about half way up your boot so you can feel it with your big toe, so that you can get full travel up and down and when at rest you are not touching the lever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240kar Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 I find that putting a little pressure on the clutch right before you pull it helps me shift smoother. And fast engagements but not too fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
potatochips Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 Didn't read all the replies, but one of the big problems is people letting off the gas before upshifting. You see this exacerbated with cars, they'll be accelerating beside you, then completely drop off to shift. Two types of general shifting for me, 1 balls to the wall, don't let off the gas at all, load the shifter with your foot, grab and release the clutch just enough to shift. 2 is cruising, at a reasonable throttle, leave the throttle at the same position the whole time, just fan the clutch in and out while shifting. Downshifting, just let the clutch out slow. Don't worry about the clutch, you aren't going to burn it out doing this. It is the smoothest way to downshift PERIOD. If you are riding the skreets and want to sound cool, blip it, you can even get it to be pretty smooth, but never as smooth as just fanning the clutch out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fz07fanboy Posted September 11, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted September 11, 2015 Didn't read all the replies, but one of the big problems is people letting off the gas before upshifting. You see this exacerbated with cars, they'll be accelerating beside you, then completely drop off to shift. Two types of general shifting for me, 1 balls to the wall, don't let off the gas at all, load the shifter with your foot, grab and release the clutch just enough to shift. 2 is cruising, at a reasonable throttle, leave the throttle at the same position the whole time, just fan the clutch in and out while shifting. Downshifting, just let the clutch out slow. Don't worry about the clutch, you aren't going to burn it out doing this. It is the smoothest way to downshift PERIOD. If you are riding the skreets and want to sound cool, blip it, you can even get it to be pretty smooth, but never as smooth as just fanning the clutch out. I don't exactly agree with the downshifting part at all. This bike engine brakes so hard you can try to want the clutch if you want. The only way i see this working is if you're traveling at slower speeds. At higher speeds trying to want the clutch and just down shifting will make you feel like you're about to get thrown off the bike or the back wheel is gonna lock up. I don't try to show off when I down shift with the bike but I always blip/rev match the throttle and always get a better/smoother down shift than just letting out the clutch. I may be different for other people but that's what this forum is about. Some people may have not exactly gotten the technique down yet to rev match. I've locked the back wheel up a few times without doing said technique. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member phyciocc Posted September 12, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted September 12, 2015 Didn't read all the replies, but one of the big problems is people letting off the gas before upshifting. You see this exacerbated with cars, they'll be accelerating beside you, then completely drop off to shift. Two types of general shifting for me, 1 balls to the wall, don't let off the gas at all, load the shifter with your foot, grab and release the clutch just enough to shift. 2 is cruising, at a reasonable throttle, leave the throttle at the same position the whole time, just fan the clutch in and out while shifting. Downshifting, just let the clutch out slow. Don't worry about the clutch, you aren't going to burn it out doing this. It is the smoothest way to downshift PERIOD. If you are riding the skreets and want to sound cool, blip it, you can even get it to be pretty smooth, but never as smooth as just fanning the clutch out. I don't exactly agree with the downshifting part at all. This bike engine brakes so hard you can try to want the clutch if you want. The only way i see this working is if you're traveling at slower speeds. At higher speeds trying to want the clutch and just down shifting will make you feel like you're about to get thrown off the bike or the back wheel is gonna lock up. I don't try to show off when I down shift with the bike but I always blip/rev match the throttle and always get a better/smoother down shift than just letting out the clutch. I may be different for other people but that's what this forum is about. Some people may have not exactly gotten the technique down yet to rev match. I've locked the back wheel up a few times without doing said technique. I do let go of the gas when I upshift, but it is more of an orchestrated dance: reduce gas ( actually more of a flick of the wrist), pull the clutch and upshift with the foot, all basically at the same time. If I time everything right, I can actually upshift without even pulling the clutch, but that is not something I would recommend doing. Downshifting is basically the same, only that the flick if the wrist is in the other direction. Marco I am a crazy Physics Prof. Be aware Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fz07fanboy Posted September 12, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted September 12, 2015 Well Mr. Professor, you may want to read my comment again as I said nothing about up shifting. I disagreed with your method of downshifting for this particular bike. Thank you. You completely lost me with your response as it had nothing to do with what I had said previously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member phyciocc Posted September 12, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted September 12, 2015 Hello fz07fanboy: First let me point out that I have quoted the poster before you and your response to it. A reasonable assumption is that this indicates that I was responding to both. Perhaps I am wrong... The original poster was talking about upshifting, and I mentioned the way I upshift. Then I responded to you about downshifting. Rev matching in downshifting is so that the engine will be revving higher and thus preventing too much engine braking. Everything I say here is clearly open for discussion, and people disagree and you disagree with me, which is perfectly fine. But I don't think your response was as tactful as it could have been. Marco I am a crazy Physics Prof. Be aware Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chickenchickendinner Posted September 27, 2015 Share Posted September 27, 2015 Im glad this question was asked...i was thinking the same. I as well learned something new today, Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
level41 Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 It's all about timing. The correct time it takes for the engine to rev down, before it's revs match the transmissions of the next gear. Downshifting is harder, but it's easier when you let the engine rev lower. Come to a slow, where the RPMs are between idle (1200-1400RPM) and low gear (2000 RPM). Then shift down. In essence, all the time you're decelerating, you shouldn't be shifting, until about perhaps the last 10% of your deceleration distance, eg: 200ft deceleration before coming to a stop on a light, downshift at the last 20-30ft, just before coming to a stop. You could also downshift to the gear you need (eg: you're going to make a turn in 2nd gear, shift to 2nd), while keeping the clutch engaged. Release the clutch only when your speed matches the speed you need to make the turn, and accelerate from 2nd. When you get more comfortable with the bike, you can learn to downshift at higher RPM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
recurveshooter Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 I'm with level41 on this one. Folks, why on earth do you feel the need to downshift? This engine has SOOOO much compression braking when off throttle all you have to do is shut off the gas and let the engine slow you down. If you need a little more, drag the brakes. If you need a lot more, hit the brakes harder. When you get to the speed you're needing, THEN downshift. And in the mountains? In third gear I can ride my bike from a little under 30 to a little over 80 without shifting. Whats all this downshift nonsense? You CAN'T ride this bike like a 2 stroke or multi cylinder bike. It has too much engine breaking. Learn how to use it to your advantage! (FLAME SUIT ON!) - recurveshooter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member sane Posted December 13, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted December 13, 2015 Clutch in, blip throttle, clutch out Clutch movements are smooth w/NeverDump(™) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ralph Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 Once you get enough miles under your belt you don't even think about shifting up or down it just becomes automatic just like walking you don't think about putting one foot in front of the other you just do it. Same with braking or changing direction if you have to think about it it will be to late, making lots of noise as in loud exhausts or horn, or flashing lights wont save you you have to react speed up slow down or swerve to get out the way, the alternative is getting on first name terms with your orthopaedic surgeon, the plus side is once masted you become a smoother, safer, and faster rider and will enjoy every ride more, and avoid having to eat crop hospital food. Remember every other road user is a homicidal maniac and it does not matter if you are in the right or wrong it's going to hurt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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