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EJK Settings from Forum Members


tuninghq

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While Dobeck/EJK is no longer a vendor on this forum, we are leaving this thread up to help learn about setting up your EJK fuel controller. 

 


Dobeck makes a great fuel controller. We are happy that we were able to find them their frist test bike for their FZ-07 fuel controller and also to help them build their brand around the FZ-07. 

 

Read below and the attached pages to learn from our experience with this Fuel Controller. 

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littlesquirt

I'm picking up my new 07 today and already have a stash of parts sitting at home..Been wondering about pulling the trigger on one of these.
 
This product looks very similar to the JD Power Surge box I had on my Husky 450SMR. Can you confirm this is the same or similar product? It worked very well on my supermoto and this has me leaning towards your product for my new bike.
 
I also see you rent the AFR setup, which is great.  What is needed to do with the stock o2 plug when using this?  Do you have a bypass resistor plug or something?  Can you safely just leave the stock o2 sensor plug un-hooked while using your setup?
 
Thanks
 
 

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I also see you rent the AFR setup, which is great.  What is needed to do with the stock o2 plug when using this?  Do you have a bypass resistor plug or something?  Can you safely just leave the stock o2 sensor plug un-hooked while using your setup?
 
Thanks
 

I just left the O2 sensor in the exhaust but unplugged it from the wires. The bike runs fine without it and doesn't give any kinda of error codes.
 
Now there has been some discussions about it left plugged in/unplugged so I figure other people will chime in also.
 
Also forgot to say I have the Ixil l3xb with the EJK on my bike.
 
 
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Mods: Akrapovic carbon fiber pipe, K&N air filter, EJK , un-snorkeled. 
Settings: G - 4, Y - 6.5, R - 4, GB - 2, YB - 3.5, RB - 1. Going to drop Y & R down .50 to stop the popping between shifts.
 
Fuel econ: appx. 54 mpg. (if no hard throttle)
 
 
 
 

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Beemer

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I'm picking up my new 07 today and already have a stash of parts sitting at home..Been wondering about pulling the trigger on one of these.  
This product looks very similar to the JD Power Surge box I had on my Husky 450SMR. Can you confirm this is the same or similar product? It worked very well on my supermoto and this has me leaning towards your product for my new bike.
 
I also see you rent the AFR setup, which is great.  What is needed to do with the stock o2 plug when using this?  Do you have a bypass resistor plug or something?  Can you safely just leave the stock o2 sensor plug un-hooked while using your setup?
 
Thanks
 

Dobeck Performance manufactures fuel solutions for many different companies, the JD Power Surge box being one of them. We manufacture the hardware, the private label uses our load based tuning software and is responsible for developing their own tune up for their products.
 
Although they all look the same and adjust the same, each private labels controller may have different programming.
The EJK or electronic jet kit is Dobeck Perfomrance's own label.
 
The SAFR tool is available for rent at $46/week. This is a Standalone Air/Fuel Ratio (SAFR) diagnostic tool. The SAFR tool utilizes an 18mm Bosch wideband O2 sensor that requires an 18mm bung to screw into. On many of the aftermarket exhausts for this bike, they are already equipped with the 18mm O2 bung. Since we already have the stock O2 sensor disconnected (does nto require a bypass when disconnected), we can take this out of the exhaust, and remove the 18mm to 12mm reducer plug so that our wideband O2 sensor can screw into this location. With the O2 sensor in place, we can power up the SAFR with one of the power up options and begin to look at the AFR. Adjust the EJK accordingly until the bike is running at good AFR values.
 
Let me know if you have any other questions!
 
-TuningHQ
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I'm using an otherwise stock FZ-07 with then Ixil L3XB exhaust (O2 removed), on recommended settings:
 
G-5.5
Y-6
R-5.5
GB-3.5
YB-3
RB-1
 
I'm getting a very consistent 48-49mpg (would like to see a bit more, but not complaining). The bike runs well and accelerates smoothly however I get pretty aggressive pops still while engine braking, specifically at lower RPM's. Also- after decelerating using engine braking I feel like the bike runs too rich.. as you can see in the video below, about 0:15, it seems to miss a little at low rpm's.  I was just doing a sound check, but when I rev it at 0:15, that's just one rev and it bogs, not 2 quick ones, which is why I did another blip of the throttle afterwards just to make sure it was running ok.  It also sputters *just slightly* on takeoff after decelerating.  I also get a pop in between shifts sometimes.  I live in Minnesota (~1200' elevation).
 
 

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Oh nice I'm glad your figuring out the optimal setting for that set up with the L3XB because in a week I hope to have the exact same one! Except my bike is white I guess. Staying tuned!

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I'm using an otherwise stock FZ-07 with then Ixil L3XB exhaust (O2 removed), on recommended settings: 
G-5.5
Y-6
R-5.5
GB-3.5
YB-3
RB-1
 
I'm getting a very consistent 48-49mpg (would like to see a bit more, but not complaining). The bike runs well and accelerates smoothly however I get pretty aggressive pops still while engine braking, specifically at lower RPM's. Also- after decelerating using engine braking I feel like the bike runs too rich.. as you can see in the video below, about 0:15, it seems to miss a little at low rpm's.  I was just doing a sound check, but when I rev it at 0:15, that's just one rev and it bogs, not 2 quick ones, which is why I did another blip of the throttle afterwards just to make sure it was running ok.  It also sputters *just slightly* on takeoff after decelerating.  I also get a pop in between shifts sometimes.  I live in Minnesota (~1200' elevation).
 

 
Right now I am at
 
G-5
Y-6
R-5.5
GB-3.5
YB-3
RB-1
 
 
I am getting about 51-52 I was going to knock Green down to 4.5 and possibly with mess Green/Blue and see what I get with MPG and the feel of the bike. I only get the popping sometimes when shifting from 1st to 2nd.
 
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Mods: Akrapovic carbon fiber pipe, K&N air filter, EJK Settings: G - 4, Y - 6.5, R - 4, GB - 2, YB - 3.5, RB - 1. Going to drop Y & R down .50 to stop the popping between shifts.
 
Fuel econ: appx. 54 mpg. (if no hard throttle)
 
 
 

Ok, so I went down .50 on the Y and R like I said I would and voila! Less popping!! A little popping is still there but it's been reduced by around 70/80% I'd say. I'm going to take the settings down another .50 to see what happens. When I do I'll post the results again. Another thing, the acceleration seems smoother now (if that's possible), it became way smoother when I installed the EJK and I didn't think it could be better.
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Beemer

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What exactly do these letters stand for anyways?

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What exactly do these letters stand for anyways?
On the EJK the different modes depend on what color of the leds that are flashing on the device.  
G= Green led
Y = Yellow led
R = Red led
GB = Green and blue led flashing
YB = Yellow and Blue leds
RB = Red and Blue leds
 
The numbers mean how far to the right the leds are flashing from left to right. It makes more sense when once you see it in action.
 
Here is a good video to see what we are talking about.
 
[video src=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNs939pPcTU]
 
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What exactly do these letters stand for anyways?
I took a pic of my card that comes with the EJK. It should explain. There are different colored lights on the EJK controller itself and you can adjust the light settings for more/less fuel, etc. the numbers signify the amount for each color. For instance: I was getting too much fuel recently and it was popping alot so I adjusted fuel settings ( Y, accel fuel ) from 6.5 as you see on my card down to 6 and it helped a lot with the popping. 
 
[attachment id=707" thumbnail="1][attachment id=708" thumbnail="1]
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Beemer

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The green, yellow and red values are how much fuel is adjusted by for the respective zone. Green is anything above 1500 RPM with light load, i.e. cruising (note the the EJK does not alter idle fuel nor anything under 1500RPMs). Yellow is under acceleration. Red is WOT.
 
The YB and RB values are basically the lower limits for when the respective zone kicks in. The GB value determines how much extra fuel is given when the accel pump kicks on.
 
If I recall correctly, the EJK for the FZ-07 is set with 3.0 as the zero point, meaning 3.0 = stock fueling, 3.5 and up is more fuel than stock, 2.5 or less is less fuel than stock. When we say more or less fuel than stock, basically what is happening is the ECU determines how much fuel the injector should give and then the EJK intercepts this signal from the ECU to the injector, alters it, and sends the altered fuel amount to the injector.

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Life is good on 2 wheels!

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Here are my current settings:
 
Mods
M4 exhaust, no baffle, stock air filter/air box, snorkel removed (snorkel only, not the entire top of the air box), O2 sensor disconnected.
 
Settings
G - 6.0
Y - 7.5
R - 6.5
GB - 4.0
YB - 3.0
RB - 1.0
 
Notes
I keep a log of every time I change any setting on a Google Sheets spreadsheet with notes of how the change feels. Response in all zones feels good, especially on cooler/less humid days.  For hot and humid summer days it might be a tad too rich but it's certainly not bad; not bad enough that I've tried to adjust the EJK for it.  Tried G = 6.5 and 7.0, easy rolls-ons felt a bit sluggish, suggesting too rich.  Lowered G to 6.0 and roll-on response was much improved.  As of yet I have not checked anything with the SAFR tool.  Still planning some air box/filter mods and possibly an exhaust change, so I'll wait to fine tune it until I think I have the mods I like.  
 
EDIT: Forgot to mention O2 sensor was disconnected.  Updated "mods" above.

Life is good on 2 wheels!

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Wow that makes a hell of alot more sense to me now. You guys are very informative thanks

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Yoshimura carbon exhaust with DNA air filter, DNA air box cover, O2 sensor disconnected. Baffle In
 
GRN @ 5.5 YEL @ 7 RED @ 6.5 G/B @ 4.5 Y/B @ 5 R/B @ 1

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You guys are awesome!
 
I think a lot of peeps will benefit from the advice and current settings you all are providing.
 
Keep up the good work!
 
I will keep a watch on this thread and answer questions and clarify things when I can.
You guys are doing an excellent job of this so far.
 
If a question is left unanswered and I haven't chimed in right away, tag me in the post so I get a notification and I will respond ASAP.
 
A BIG THANKS to all you FZ-07 members!
 
-TuningHQ

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@tuninghq I've noticed nearly every map you have the RED fuel lower then the YELLOW fuel ( acceleration gets more fuel than WOT ) whereas stock map has slightly higher WOT than accel. Logically wouldn't it make sense for WOT to get more fuel than moderate acceleration? What is your reasoning for the difference?

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wickedtwister

@tuninghq, correct mw if I'm wrong but the Yamaha map is very rich on the top end. Because it starts out fairly rich you don't need to add a lot of fuel to achieve proper afr's.

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@tuninghq, correct mw if I'm wrong but the Yamaha map is very rich on the top end. Because it starts out fairly rich you don't need to add a lot of fuel to achieve proper afr's.
Another thing that I find interesting is changing the switch over point for RED so drastically (from 6 down to 1 pretty much across the board).  I'm guessing this moves it further up the RPM range, maybe to past peak tq/hp so there is less need for fuel?
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  • 5 weeks later...

Although my buttometer did feel a difference in power and getting on it was fun, it was short lived because the gas mileage dropped like a rock so I changed it back to the factory setting. I noticed something else also, when I rode casually I could feel the difference when the full throttle fuel kicked in and I didn't like the way it behaved. It gave like a hiccup and an unexpected burst of power (not a lot) when I wanted it to accellerate slowly and smoothly. I came to expect it so it was managable but unwanted. I guess I just wanted to see what the bike could do in banshee mode, not ride it like a banshee all the time. (get this boy in trouble)
Question: If I want the "Full Throttle Fuel" to kick in later vs sooner do I go up with the light numbers? It seems mine kicks in around 1/4 throttle but I want to change it to around 3/4 throttle. Thank you!

Beemer

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Raise the RB value for the R to kick in later. I don't believe there is any way to adjust it directly by throttle position, but raising the RB will make it kick in later, with more load.

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Life is good on 2 wheels!

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Here are my updated/current settings:
 
Mods
M4 exhaust, no baffle, stock air filter/air box, snorkel removed (snorkel only, not the entire top of the air box), O2 sensor disconnected.
 
Settings
G - 5.5
Y - 7.0
R - 7.0
GB - 4.0
YB - 3.5
RB - 1.0
 
Notes
Smoothed some rough spots out.  Throttle response is still good.  Overall small improvement.  May try putting Y back to 7.5 and YB back to 3 for a little more "umph" when I get on it.  I think G is spot on now - cruising is just smoother.  
 
 

Life is good on 2 wheels!

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I'm currently using base m4 tune for my fz but feels a little sluggish, what tune are u guys running? I used an akra carbon fiber muffler from a Kawasaki looks like m4 setup with k&n filter with snorkel removed?

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