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EJK Settings from Forum Members

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tuninghq

While Dobeck/EJK is no longer a vendor on this forum, we are leaving this thread up to help learn about setting up your EJK fuel controller. 

 


Dobeck makes a great fuel controller. We are happy that we were able to find them their frist test bike for their FZ-07 fuel controller and also to help them build their brand around the FZ-07. 

 

Read below and the attached pages to learn from our experience with this Fuel Controller. 

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littlesquirt
I'm picking up my new 07 today and already have a stash of parts sitting at home..Been wondering about pulling the trigger on one of these.
 
This product looks very similar to the JD Power Surge box I had on my Husky 450SMR. Can you confirm this is the same or similar product? It worked very well on my supermoto and this has me leaning towards your product for my new bike.
 
I also see you rent the AFR setup, which is great.  What is needed to do with the stock o2 plug when using this?  Do you have a bypass resistor plug or something?  Can you safely just leave the stock o2 sensor plug un-hooked while using your setup?
 
Thanks
 
 

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andistyr
 
I also see you rent the AFR setup, which is great.  What is needed to do with the stock o2 plug when using this?  Do you have a bypass resistor plug or something?  Can you safely just leave the stock o2 sensor plug un-hooked while using your setup?
 
Thanks
 

I just left the O2 sensor in the exhaust but unplugged it from the wires. The bike runs fine without it and doesn't give any kinda of error codes.
 
Now there has been some discussions about it left plugged in/unplugged so I figure other people will chime in also.
 
Also forgot to say I have the Ixil l3xb with the EJK on my bike.
 
 
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Beemer
Mods: Akrapovic carbon fiber pipe, K&N air filter, EJK , un-snorkeled. 
Settings: G - 4, Y - 6.5, R - 4, GB - 2, YB - 3.5, RB - 1. Going to drop Y & R down .50 to stop the popping between shifts.
 
Fuel econ: appx. 54 mpg. (if no hard throttle)
 
 
 
 
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tuninghq
I'm picking up my new 07 today and already have a stash of parts sitting at home..Been wondering about pulling the trigger on one of these.  
This product looks very similar to the JD Power Surge box I had on my Husky 450SMR. Can you confirm this is the same or similar product? It worked very well on my supermoto and this has me leaning towards your product for my new bike.
 
I also see you rent the AFR setup, which is great.  What is needed to do with the stock o2 plug when using this?  Do you have a bypass resistor plug or something?  Can you safely just leave the stock o2 sensor plug un-hooked while using your setup?
 
Thanks
 

Dobeck Performance manufactures fuel solutions for many different companies, the JD Power Surge box being one of them. We manufacture the hardware, the private label uses our load based tuning software and is responsible for developing their own tune up for their products.
 
Although they all look the same and adjust the same, each private labels controller may have different programming.
The EJK or electronic jet kit is Dobeck Perfomrance's own label.
 
The SAFR tool is available for rent at $46/week. This is a Standalone Air/Fuel Ratio (SAFR) diagnostic tool. The SAFR tool utilizes an 18mm Bosch wideband O2 sensor that requires an 18mm bung to screw into. On many of the aftermarket exhausts for this bike, they are already equipped with the 18mm O2 bung. Since we already have the stock O2 sensor disconnected (does nto require a bypass when disconnected), we can take this out of the exhaust, and remove the 18mm to 12mm reducer plug so that our wideband O2 sensor can screw into this location. With the O2 sensor in place, we can power up the SAFR with one of the power up options and begin to look at the AFR. Adjust the EJK accordingly until the bike is running at good AFR values.
 
Let me know if you have any other questions!
 
-TuningHQ

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cavedog
I'm using an otherwise stock FZ-07 with then Ixil L3XB exhaust (O2 removed), on recommended settings:
 
G-5.5
Y-6
R-5.5
GB-3.5
YB-3
RB-1
 
I'm getting a very consistent 48-49mpg (would like to see a bit more, but not complaining). The bike runs well and accelerates smoothly however I get pretty aggressive pops still while engine braking, specifically at lower RPM's. Also- after decelerating using engine braking I feel like the bike runs too rich.. as you can see in the video below, about 0:15, it seems to miss a little at low rpm's.  I was just doing a sound check, but when I rev it at 0:15, that's just one rev and it bogs, not 2 quick ones, which is why I did another blip of the throttle afterwards just to make sure it was running ok.  It also sputters *just slightly* on takeoff after decelerating.  I also get a pop in between shifts sometimes.  I live in Minnesota (~1200' elevation).
 
 

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username
Oh nice I'm glad your figuring out the optimal setting for that set up with the L3XB because in a week I hope to have the exact same one! Except my bike is white I guess. Staying tuned!

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andistyr
I'm using an otherwise stock FZ-07 with then Ixil L3XB exhaust (O2 removed), on recommended settings: 
G-5.5
Y-6
R-5.5
GB-3.5
YB-3
RB-1
 
I'm getting a very consistent 48-49mpg (would like to see a bit more, but not complaining). The bike runs well and accelerates smoothly however I get pretty aggressive pops still while engine braking, specifically at lower RPM's. Also- after decelerating using engine braking I feel like the bike runs too rich.. as you can see in the video below, about 0:15, it seems to miss a little at low rpm's.  I was just doing a sound check, but when I rev it at 0:15, that's just one rev and it bogs, not 2 quick ones, which is why I did another blip of the throttle afterwards just to make sure it was running ok.  It also sputters *just slightly* on takeoff after decelerating.  I also get a pop in between shifts sometimes.  I live in Minnesota (~1200' elevation).
 

 
Right now I am at
 
G-5
Y-6
R-5.5
GB-3.5
YB-3
RB-1
 
 
I am getting about 51-52 I was going to knock Green down to 4.5 and possibly with mess Green/Blue and see what I get with MPG and the feel of the bike. I only get the popping sometimes when shifting from 1st to 2nd.
 
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Beemer
Mods: Akrapovic carbon fiber pipe, K&N air filter, EJK Settings: G - 4, Y - 6.5, R - 4, GB - 2, YB - 3.5, RB - 1. Going to drop Y & R down .50 to stop the popping between shifts.
 
Fuel econ: appx. 54 mpg. (if no hard throttle)
 
 
 

Ok, so I went down .50 on the Y and R like I said I would and voila! Less popping!! A little popping is still there but it's been reduced by around 70/80% I'd say. I'm going to take the settings down another .50 to see what happens. When I do I'll post the results again. Another thing, the acceleration seems smoother now (if that's possible), it became way smoother when I installed the EJK and I didn't think it could be better.
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username
What exactly do these letters stand for anyways?

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andistyr
What exactly do these letters stand for anyways?
On the EJK the different modes depend on what color of the leds that are flashing on the device.  
G= Green led
Y = Yellow led
R = Red led
GB = Green and blue led flashing
YB = Yellow and Blue leds
RB = Red and Blue leds
 
The numbers mean how far to the right the leds are flashing from left to right. It makes more sense when once you see it in action.
 
Here is a good video to see what we are talking about.
 
[video src=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNs939pPcTU]
 
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Beemer
What exactly do these letters stand for anyways?
I took a pic of my card that comes with the EJK. It should explain. There are different colored lights on the EJK controller itself and you can adjust the light settings for more/less fuel, etc. the numbers signify the amount for each color. For instance: I was getting too much fuel recently and it was popping alot so I adjusted fuel settings ( Y, accel fuel ) from 6.5 as you see on my card down to 6 and it helped a lot with the popping. 
 
[attachment id=707" thumbnail="1][attachment id=708" thumbnail="1]
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aeisan
The green, yellow and red values are how much fuel is adjusted by for the respective zone. Green is anything above 1500 RPM with light load, i.e. cruising (note the the EJK does not alter idle fuel nor anything under 1500RPMs). Yellow is under acceleration. Red is WOT.
 
The YB and RB values are basically the lower limits for when the respective zone kicks in. The GB value determines how much extra fuel is given when the accel pump kicks on.
 
If I recall correctly, the EJK for the FZ-07 is set with 3.0 as the zero point, meaning 3.0 = stock fueling, 3.5 and up is more fuel than stock, 2.5 or less is less fuel than stock. When we say more or less fuel than stock, basically what is happening is the ECU determines how much fuel the injector should give and then the EJK intercepts this signal from the ECU to the injector, alters it, and sends the altered fuel amount to the injector.
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aeisan
Here are my current settings:
 
Mods
M4 exhaust, no baffle, stock air filter/air box, snorkel removed (snorkel only, not the entire top of the air box), O2 sensor disconnected.
 
Settings
G - 6.0
Y - 7.5
R - 6.5
GB - 4.0
YB - 3.0
RB - 1.0
 
Notes
I keep a log of every time I change any setting on a Google Sheets spreadsheet with notes of how the change feels. Response in all zones feels good, especially on cooler/less humid days.  For hot and humid summer days it might be a tad too rich but it's certainly not bad; not bad enough that I've tried to adjust the EJK for it.  Tried G = 6.5 and 7.0, easy rolls-ons felt a bit sluggish, suggesting too rich.  Lowered G to 6.0 and roll-on response was much improved.  As of yet I have not checked anything with the SAFR tool.  Still planning some air box/filter mods and possibly an exhaust change, so I'll wait to fine tune it until I think I have the mods I like.  
 
EDIT: Forgot to mention O2 sensor was disconnected.  Updated "mods" above.

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username
Wow that makes a hell of alot more sense to me now. You guys are very informative thanks
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