EJK Settings from Forum Members

[Beemer]

Ok, I got a chance to ride yesterday and took the Yellow setting down half a click and after riding for about an hour and a half it barely popped all of about three times. It actually sounded more like a pfft than a pop (less gas igniting) so it's behaving much better but my guess is one more half light setting will eliminate it all together. It's suppose to be a sunny 75 here today so I'll definitely test it. BTW, I did do a test with smoke around all the connections when I first installed the pipe and found no disturbances in the smoke. I think it's sealed up good.

[fz07nc]

Can anyone comment on why the R/B switchpoint for the Akrapovic Titanium and Marthy Exhaust are much higher than all other exhaust systems?
 
Most of the other exhaust systems have a R/B setting of 1.
 
This R/B setting corresponds to the adjustment of when the Red zone (full throttle) engages. 
 

[tuninghq]

@fz07nc,
 
During our testing we simply found these settings to work better for those exhausts. That doesn't mean a setting of 1 in R/B for the Akra Titanium will ruin the entire tune up.
These switchpoint adjustments may vary upon rider preference and riding style. Feel free to drop the R/B setting and see if you like how the bike performs better.
 
The R/B switchpoint has a high load/RPM ratio meaning that the load applied to the motor will have a large effect on when the red fuel zone turns on. It is not totally RPM based with the R/B switchpoint.
Going from the max setting to the min setting on R/B only changes the switchpoint about 1000 RPM. A lower setting will require less load on the motor to get the red fuel zone to kick on.
 
Feel free to give it a try and see if you like the results. Worse thing that happens is you go back to the setting you previously had.
 
We recommend having the EJK out where you can see it when making setting adjustments. The EJK will display the LED color of the fuel zone it is operating in. This will show you exactly when you are switching from one fuel zone to another.
 
In the end find the settings that work for your bike and riding style. Our settings are not the end all, be all; they get you a good tune up right out of the box, but there will be many setting combinations that work well and may work better for others.
 
That is the beauty of the EJK, you are not stuck with one flash or have to hook up a computer all the time to play fuel map roulette and hope you download a good map for your riding style.
Everything can be adjusted on the fly without the need of a computer. Choose the settings that work best for you and your bike.
 
Feel free to give Dobeck Performance a call if you need any tuning advice. 1.406.388.2377
 
-TuningHQ
 
 

[ddog]

Anyone running an Akra carbon, baffle out, stock air filter, snorkel in/out (I'll do either). I'd like to get her dialed in right off the bat! I've searched the forum and haven't found EJK settings for this setup.

 
I'm running that setup and was wondering if you've had a chance to dial everything in. I've raised the red and yellow settings and it seems to run better, but not as well as with baffle in and recommended settings.

[sansnombre]

Tuninghk, I have a couple of questions for you:
1) I always thought, and the interctive graphic seems to show, that the G/B setting adjusts the [em]crossover[/em] of the non-modified zone to the green zone - basically when non-adjusted fueling transfers into the EJK-modified settings. But I'm seeing in several locations that this alters the [em]accelerator[/em] pump and not this crossover point. Can you clarify?
2) I have an unusual setup and am wondering if you can point me in the proper direction? I have an Arrow pipe and a K&N filter, BUT I am using a modified snorkel and baffle, so am not sure what the changes to the settings might be. The std Arrow baffle only has 9, 10mm holes in it to let out the entire exhaust flow. This seems very restrictive, so I added quite a few more - from 9 to 24 - same size, similar location down the baffle length. I'm sure this flows more, but your thoughts on how this might affect jetting and suggestions for jetting changes? Also, another experienced tuner on this blog (with dyno runs to support) suggests [em]not[/em] removing the snorkel all the way but rather lopping off the bottom section that is inside the filter - it's [em]that[/em] section that is so restrictive and not necessarily the snorkel itself. I believe that if you remove the entire snorkel piece, you are probably flowing more air, but I don't think the flow is as "tuned" as with the external section in place. Have you done any runs with this change? So that's what my changes are and I'm not quite certain how to modify the jetting to accomodate. Thoughts?
 
When I first had the pipe on, there was no snorkel and the baffle was out, and it was jetting very nicely as I followed your baffle out settings, even though I had the K&N, which didn't seem to make a dfference. But since the snorkel was cut and reinstalled and the modified baffle was installed, I'm not dialed anymore, so I need your suggestions. It seems to have a slight stumble from on/off throttle when fully warmed up, and moderate speed (35-45), high gear (5) cruising is not crisp - almost a hunting or movement, like it's trying to find the spot. I understand this is slightly lugging the engine, but it should still be able to jet cleanly.
 
I'm surprised that the changes shown for the Arrow with baffle in vs. out are so different for the G/B. The baffle change calls for leaning up the green zone by 1 setting, so less flow in cruising mode - makes sense. Also, slightly less gas needed for accel in the yellow zone, as we drop the setting from 5.5 to 5 - also makes sense. But G/B goes from 5 to 3.5, and this one I don't undertand! So, are we modifying the pilot/geen crossover point or adjusting the accel pump? Either way, can you help me understand the change?
In short (I know, too late) with this setup of a modified snorkel, a K&N filter, and an opened-up baffle what changes would you suggest to the posted settings? Closer to baffle in settings or baffle out settings?
Thanks. Appreciate it.

[tuninghq]

 
 

Tuninghk, I have a couple of questions for you: 1) I always thought, and the interctive graphic seems to show, that the G/B setting adjusts the [em]crossover[/em] of the non-modified zone to the green zone - basically when non-adjusted fueling transfers into the EJK-modified settings. But I'm seeing in several locations that this alters the [em]accelerator[/em] pump and not this crossover point. Can you clarify?

The G/B adjustment mode varies from application to application. It may change from a Green lower zone switch point, or accel pump, or even decel fuel on certain applications. This adjustment mode varies from model to model depending on what we feel benefits the bike the most. On the FZ-07 it is an accel pump. Our most common adjustment for the G/B mode is the lower switchpoint which is why you will see this in our interactive demo.
 
 
2) I have an unusual setup and am wondering if you can point me in the proper direction? I have an Arrow pipe and a K&N filter, BUT I am using a modified snorkel and baffle, so am not sure what the changes to the settings might be. The std Arrow baffle only has 9, 10mm holes in it to let out the entire exhaust flow. This seems very restrictive, so I added quite a few more - from 9 to 24 - same size, similar location down the baffle length. I'm sure this flows more, but your thoughts on how this might affect jetting and suggestions for jetting changes? Also, another experienced tuner on this blog (with dyno runs to support) suggests [em]not[/em] removing the snorkel all the way but rather lopping off the bottom section that is inside the filter - it's [em]that[/em] section that is so restrictive and not necessarily the snorkel itself. I believe that if you remove the entire snorkel piece, you are probably flowing more air, but I don't think the flow is as "tuned" as with the external section in place. Have you done any runs with this change? So that's what my changes are and I'm not quite certain how to modify the jetting to accomodate. Thoughts? 
 
The Arrow exhaust was actually one of our best performing exhausts. I would imagine the baffling they had created a nice amount of backpressure to help build torque. With your added holes, you likely reduced backpressure, but may be flowing more air  at high RPMs. You may raise the red zone setting to see if that helps full throttle performance for your baffle mod. 
 
When I first had the pipe on, there was no snorkel and the baffle was out, and it was jetting very nicely as I followed your baffle out settings, even though I had the K&N, which didn't seem to make a dfference. But since the snorkel was cut and reinstalled and the modified baffle was installed, I'm not dialed anymore, so I need your suggestions. It seems to have a slight stumble from on/off throttle when fully warmed up, and moderate speed (35-45), high gear (5) cruising is not crisp - almost a hunting or movement, like it's trying to find the spot. I understand this is slightly lugging the engine, but it should still be able to jet cleanly.
 
If you can have the EJK out where you can see it when riding, you will be able to see what fuel zone you are operating in when these running issues occur. You will make adjustments to that fuel zone to address the running issue. If the running issue seems to be caused when the EJK switches from zone to zone, then you will likely need to make a switchpoint adjustment to mode 5 & 6
I'm surprised that the changes shown for the Arrow with baffle in vs. out are so different for the G/B. The baffle change calls for leaning up the green zone by 1 setting, so less flow in cruising mode - makes sense. Also, slightly less gas needed for accel in the yellow zone, as we drop the setting from 5.5 to 5 - also makes sense. But G/B goes from 5 to 3.5, and this one I don't undertand! So, are we modifying the pilot/geen crossover point or adjusting the accel pump? Either way, can you help me understand the change?
 
When the baffle is removed, the air through the exhaust is more free flowing. This is why we add fuel in Green and yellow for the baffle out. Looks like the baffle out did not affect full throttle fueling in our testing. That may not be the case with your modified baffle. The Green/Blue adjustment mode is an accel pump. The accel pump only comes on for a split second anytime a quick throttle opening is detected. This adjustment helps with throttle response. A setting change from 5 to 3.5 is going to be minimal in this adjustment. The additional fuel was probably not necessary with the green and yellow modes raised up.
In short (I know, too late) with this setup of a modified snorkel, a K&N filter, and an opened-up baffle what changes would you suggest to the posted settings? Closer to baffle in settings or baffle out settings?
 
I would run the baffle out settings for a starting point and with the EJK out where you can see it, put some ride time on and try to pinpoint what fuel zones the running issues are occuring in and make adjustments to those modes. Let me know the results and we can go from there. Give me a call at the office as I can probably provide better tuning assistance over the phone.
Thanks. Appreciate it.

 

[sansnombre]

Thanks for taking the time to write that out. I appreciate it.

[ShiftHer]

Pardon the noob questions here, but if someone could just explain this like I'm 5, I'd really appreciate it. 
 
What does the O2 sensor do exactly? And why is it beneficial to disconnect it when you have an EJK unit installed? What is the downside of leaving it connected with an EJK installed? What exactly is meant by a bike running lean? (is that good, bad, depends?)
 
On the whole, I don't understand how engines work much beyond fire, boom, off we go. 
 

[Beemer]

Pardon the noob questions here, but if someone could just explain this like I'm 5, I'd really appreciate it.  
What does the O2 sensor do exactly? And why is it beneficial to disconnect it when you have an EJK unit installed? What is the downside of leaving it connected with an EJK installed? What exactly is meant by a bike running lean? (is that good, bad, depends?)
 
On the whole, I don't understand how engines work much beyond fire, boom, off we go. 

The 02 sensor controlls/monitors the fuel/air mixture and leaving the 02 sensor plugged in with an EJK installed isn't going to affect the EJK or the performance because the EJK only comes on after 1500 rpm and overrides the 02 sensor so basically, the 02 sensor has been neutered and the EJK is hanging there in it's place. I hope that paints a clear picture. 

[castanzarules]

Anyone running an Akra carbon, baffle out, stock air filter, snorkel in/out (I'll do either). I'd like to get her dialed in right off the bat! I've searched the forum and haven't found EJK settings for this setup.

I'm running that setup and was wondering if you've had a chance to dial everything in. I've raised the red and yellow settings and it seems to run better, but not as well as with baffle in and recommended settings.

I've finally been able to put some miles on with the EJK and my results mirror yours.  I raised the yellow by 1/2, red by 1 and green by 1/2.  It's much better than without the changes but still not where it was with the baffle in.  Next week I should be able mess with the settings for an entire day so I'll try to relay the results.

[Beemer]

(two months later the guy reports his findings, ) 
 
I got to watching Game of Thrones and had no time for anything else, ha! The last time I reported my settings I said I was going to take the Yellow down a half notch and I did but I didn't like how the engine reacted to it, it behaved as though it was starting to starve a little for fuel so back up a half setting it went and is staying there unless someone knows of other settings I haven't tried. It only pops once in awhile when up-shifting (between 1st and 2nd gear) AND I've found it also does it more often when I barely crack the throttle in 1st and sort of stretch the gear out, let it wind out a bit. I feel the unignited gas fumes build up in the pipe and ignite when I shift because of it. When I shift quicker it happens less so that can be contributed to operator error even though I'm not really doing anything wrong. I shift sooner now and I'm pretty happy with the results.

[ddog]

I'm running that setup and was wondering if you've had a chance to dial everything in. I've raised the red and yellow settings and it seems to run better, but not as well as with baffle in and recommended settings.

I've finally been able to put some miles on with the EJK and my results mirror yours.  I raised the yellow by 1/2, red by 1 and green by 1/2.  It's much better than without the changes but still not where it was with the baffle in.  Next week I should be able mess with the settings for an entire day so I'll try to relay the results.

 
I just sent my ECU in to 2WDW to be reflashed, so I'll let you know how things compare and if I modify any EJK settings after reflash.

[ShiftHer]

Pardon the noob questions here, but if someone could just explain this like I'm 5, I'd really appreciate it.  
What does the O2 sensor do exactly? And why is it beneficial to disconnect it when you have an EJK unit installed? What is the downside of leaving it connected with an EJK installed? What exactly is meant by a bike running lean? (is that good, bad, depends?)
 
On the whole, I don't understand how engines work much beyond fire, boom, off we go. 

The 02 sensor controlls/monitors the fuel/air mixture and leaving the 02 sensor plugged in with an EJK installed isn't going to affect the EJK or the performance because the EJK only comes on after 1500 rpm and overrides the 02 sensor so basically, the 02 sensor has been neutered and the EJK is hanging there in it's place. I hope that paints a clear picture. 

Thank you, @Beemer! This does help clear things up!

[straydogeod]

I'm running a Yoshi R77, snorkel removed, O2 sensor disconnected, no insert on recommended settings for the aforementioned setup but with baffle in (didn't see a recommended setup for the R77, baffle removed). I get a CEL when accelerating but not at idle. Ideas?

[go4geoff]

@straydogeod why is your o2 sensor disconnected? Apparently my dealership decided to not plug my o2 sensor in when I bought it brand new 3 months ago. Only after removing the side frame covers did I notice it disconnected. I had been running my ecu flash without the sensor and things were still a bit jerky and unrefined. After I reconnected the sensor and drove for 50 miles or so the bike transitioned into a smooth power delivery machine. Perhaps you not running with it in is causing the engine to freak out that it can't read o2 levels at high RPMs where it needs to balance and match fuel for performance?

[straydogeod]

EJK instructions said to disconnect it in step 5 of the instructions (Aftermarket exhaust tune). In addition to that, the tune suggestion specifically says for "02 sensor disconnected."
 
 
It's running fine just displays a CEL when accelerating.

[straydogeod]

I called Dobeck Performance after I got home from work since I'm in eastern and they are on mountain time and after the first five minute phone call, a second about just as long they are sending me a new unit because the one I currently have was found to be slightly out of tolerance. I love when companies provide customer service like this and can't speak highly enough about them. Plus the product works like a champ and is so easy to use, definitely recommend them.

[dubwrench]

I am currently waiting on the shipment of my ejk all the way out here in Canada, can't wait receive it and a throw it in!
 
I just wanted to pick your brain as I have been researching the heck out of this and figured it wouldn't hurt to ask and get the info directly from the source so to speak.
 
I will be installing this on my 2016 Fz07 with yoshimura r77 full exhaust stainless stainless carbon with baffle installed. Currently have stock air filter and snorkel on. Wondering if you have any pointers for the setup once the ejk is installed.
 
Ejk settings?
Baffle in or out?
O2 connected or disconnected?
Snorkel on or off?
 
If you have any input or can direct me to any tried and proven tips for optimal setup it would be greatly appreciated!
 
Thanks!

[bigdaddybane]

I have Yoshi with stock air filter, snorkel removed, O2 sensor disconnected and baffle In
GRN @ 6.0 YEL @ 7 RED @ 6.5 G/B @ 4.5 Y/B @ 5 R/B @ 1

[zsgrooms]

I'm running that setup and was wondering if you've had a chance to dial everything in. I've raised the red and yellow settings and it seems to run better, but not as well as with baffle in and recommended settings.

I've finally been able to put some miles on with the EJK and my results mirror yours.  I raised the yellow by 1/2, red by 1 and green by 1/2.  It's much better than without the changes but still not where it was with the baffle in.  Next week I should be able mess with the settings for an entire day so I'll try to relay the results.

 
Interested in running this same setup. Did you ever get it 100% sorted out??

[fzonly1]

I haven't seen anyone running my exact setup.
Full Yosh no baffle, no snorkel, K&N filter, O2 disconnected. I get an occasional pop on decel from high RPM. But otherwise smooth. Need to check my current settings.

[clintfish]

Hi Guy's. New to the thread. I am the proud owner of an MT-07HO, or the FZ-07 equivalent in Australia! I've installed my EJK, and I am loving how the bike feels smoother and a lot more responsive. I do have a question though. My engine light has come on, and it more annoying than concerning. I keep thinking I have left my indicator on haha. My Current setup is basically stock. I have the EJK and a K&N Filter. I have kept the snorkel in because I like to clean my baby with a pressure cleaner, and noticed the water can get in if I'm to liberal with my cleaning. And also left the O2 sensor plugged in while I have a stock exhaust! Anyway, I was wondering if anyone could recommend some settings for me, and a way to make the engine light disappear. Also any guesses as to why it came on in the first place. The bike is running fine. Thanks in advance

[mattymt07]

Yoshimura carbon exhaust with DNA air filter, DNA air box cover, O2 sensor disconnected. Baffle In 
GRN @ 5.5 YEL @ 7 RED @ 6.5 G/B @ 4.5 Y/B @ 5 R/B @ 1

. Hi I am thinking of getting this exact setup, can you tell me how it runs please, does it pull harder in all gears

[mattymt07]

Yoshimura carbon exhaust with DNA air filter, DNA air box cover, O2 sensor disconnected. Baffle In 
GRN @ 5.5 YEL @ 7 RED @ 6.5 G/B @ 4.5 Y/B @ 5 R/B @ 1

. Hi I am thinking of getting this exact setup, can you tell me how it runs please, does it pull harder in all gears

[crsnhppr]

G: 4
Y: 4.5
R: 4.5
GB: 3
YB : 2
RB: 1.5.
 
No snorkel or snorkel plate, stock filter,'drilled exhaust. Lotta experimenting and playing around , I like this setting a lot because the throttle feels now like it's directly connected to the engine if that makes sense. Like , roll on power and high acceleration feels like as much as you increase the throttle input like it's instant full power feeling at that rpm, idk it's hard to describe. Like if you know what a Variac is and when you turn the knob it's instant incremental power gains and when you stop it stays there. Idk, it just feels really good with a +2 in my rear sprocket it's clutching in 4th and can power up 3rd gear ... it's nutty