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scordiaboy515

Home made rear sets

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scordiaboy515
I whipped these up out of some 1/4 in. scrap aluminum plate..........1 inch up and 2 inches back....they worked great at the track today..e4DcarJ.jpgoSBaN4n.jpg
 
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pgeldz
Very nice!!!
 
- Paulie
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gigero
This just answered my question from your track day tread. Sweet bracket!! I respect it when people try to diy things to save a few bucks, mostly when those few bucks equal a few hundred!! Great job.
 
So it just pushed the rearsets outboard .25" along with the up and back adjustment?
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modmaster
My helmets off to you scordiaboy515. Good job of fabrication and engineering. As a machinist myself I can appreciate good metal working.
 
modmaster
 

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howworkclutch
cool. thanks for posting.

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jerryv
VERY Professional ... C&C machine?
 

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scordiaboy515
VERY Professional ... C&C machine?
   Actually I drilled the holes on a Bridgeport mill with a digital read out, coz the hole locations has to be precise....the rest of the plates I cut out using a band saw, dressed up the ends, radiused the edges and corners with a belt sander.....then bead blasted for a manufactured look ;) 
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magsz18
Damn man...nice handy work!
 
Very well done. How does the bike feel now? I would imagine you're leaned forward quite a bit more and your weight is more over the tank and handlebars?
 
Approximately how far did you move the pegs back? Four inches?

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scordiaboy515
This just answered my question from your track day tread. Sweet bracket!! I respect it when people try to diy things to save a few bucks, mostly when those few bucks equal a few hundred!! Great job.  
So it just pushed the rearsets outboard .25" along with the up and back adjustment?
   That's it!! 

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scordiaboy515
Damn man...nice handy work! 
Very well done. How does the bike feel now? I would imagine you're leaned forward quite a bit more and your weight is more over the tank and handlebars?
 
Approximately how far did you move the pegs back? Four inches?
  Yes indeed, I went up 1 inch and 2 inches back, you can't do much more than that because of clearance issues with frame and swing arm. 

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scordiaboy515
My helmets off to you scordiaboy515. Good job of fabrication and engineering. As a machinist myself I can appreciate good metal working. 
modmaster

 Thank you, I just try to think out of the box and save myself a few jingles....cause believe me....tires and brake pads are pretty pricey :D 

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wickedtwister
Do you happen to have the vertical and horizontal measurement from the stock holes?

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scordiaboy515
Do you happen to have the vertical and horizontal measurement from the stock holes?
   Sadly, I did not keep my sketch.....it's pretty simple actually.  put the bolts in the bolt holes, measure across the bolts with a dial caliper and subtract 8mm to get your center distance from hole to hole.  Then you have to establish the angle of the mounting holes....they are different from left to right, once you have a rough sketch and the angles are correct just go up 1 inch and back 2 (with right angles) from each hole and you have your template.  Keep your blanks square while you are laying them out and drilling  the holes.....then cut the outside edges to how you like.      

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nerd
@scordiaboy if you decide you'd like to fab up a few more sets, or even just one... I'd pay for your time and effort. Looking at possibly getting the Graves but they're pricey... let us know. Thanks.

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mjh937
Nice job. It took me a while to figure out what the non-factory part was.
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howworkclutch
Do you happen to have the vertical and horizontal measurement from the stock holes?
   Sadly, I did not keep my sketch.....it's pretty simple actually.  put the bolts in the bolt holes, measure across the bolts with a dial caliper and subtract 8mm to get your center distance from hole to hole.  Then you have to establish the angle of the mounting holes....they are different from left to right, once you have a rough sketch and the angles are correct just go up 1 inch and back 2 (with right angles) from each hole and you have your template.  Keep your blanks square while you are laying them out and drilling  the holes.....then cut the outside edges to how you like.    
you need a clamp and a transfer punch set.  i bought a set from harbor freight. best $12 i ever spent. makes it easy to layout holes from an existing part.
 
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wickedtwister
I really need coordinates for the cnc mill :) I was trying to be lazy, but I'll measure it.
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howworkclutch
yeah well there is that.
 
 

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howlinhoss
Maybe @RotaryRyan24 can produce these!
 

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wickedtwister
I think I'll make a set up this weekend. I'll also ask a buddy of mine who is in sales for a company the laser cuts steel and aluminum how much a set would be. I could potentially offer a one time buy if the OP doesn't mind, and there is enough interest. It will be at least a month as I'm still traveling for work until August.
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gregjet
Just a point. For race track and spirited road work, I found after researching a fair bit, that the rough guide to foot peg position , at least for the fore/aft positioning was to have the gear lever protrusion about 50mm ( +/- 20mm) behind the swingarm axle nut centre. The height is dependant on you leg geometry and riding position , but the fore/aft definitely seems to work best around there. Made quite a few positions for a few bikes to try and optimise and that seems to work best. Have a look at the MotoGP bikes ( all classes). I suspect it has to do with how you weight effects the CoG when you weight the pegs during cornering. Infront of the swingarm axle loads both the front and rear wheel , behind tend to load the rear more.
The biggest problem is often the neutral angle for the brake and gear levers starts to slope down a lot and can be difficult to get the brake lever actually into that position and the gear lever can end up with extreme activation angles ( the angles between the lever/rod/gearbox end lever which should both be as close to 90deg as possible).
 

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scordiaboy515
Just a point. For race track and spirited road work, I found after researching a fair bit, that the rough guide to foot peg position , at least for the fore/aft positioning was to have the gear lever protrusion about 50mm ( +/- 20mm) behind the swingarm axle nut centre. The height is dependant on you leg geometry and riding position , but the fore/aft definitely seems to work best around there. Made quite a few positions for a few bikes to try and optimise and that seems to work best. Have a look at the MotoGP bikes ( all classes). I suspect it has to do with how you weight effects the CoG when you weight the pegs during cornering. Infront of the swingarm axle loads both the front and rear wheel , behind tend to load the rear more. The biggest problem is often the neutral angle for the brake and gear levers starts to slope down a lot and can be difficult to get the brake lever actually into that position and the gear lever can end up with extreme activation angles ( the angles between the lever/rod/gearbox end lever which should both be as close to 90deg as possible).

........just a note here, I did not have to adjust the brake lever at all.....the shift lever I basically adjusted to the same angle that I set it in the stock location.  The main reason I made them is after looking closely at what was available, they were basically in the same position as stock....not an aggressive enough change for my liking.  They really do work quite well. 

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gregjet
It is getting unlikely that I will keep the MT, as I bought it hoping to be able to make the gutless aussie model into the same as the rest of the world got and after $1500, including a $500 reflash that he won't even tell me exactly what they did, still only have dyno rear wheel 54HP). If I do I will probably make a complete rearset set moving the activation lever points behind the swingarm pivot. I suspect for the majority of riders that would be a point where there is more handling benefits from a footpeg position change. I usually rotate the whole positioning rather than just move it back when I make a plate. Unfortunately on this bike it means making and repositioning the gear activation rod, but that's not a biggie.
Your plate will definitely help comfortwise though, as the std peg position is almost "motardy". That said unless you tame the rear weight bias and soft rear suspension, they will increase the "floatiness" of the front end and lack front end of corner traction.
You could reduce the cost by not bead blasting the part. Let the buyers blast or paint or clear coat as they desire?
Either way It's a good idea so long as you point out to buyers that increase in rear weight bias.

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littlesquirt
I'd pay for a set of these, I just hate where the pegs are when sitting at a traffic light, they poke me in the calves. Wish they were two inches back......

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