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FZ-07 foot peg replacement


mototessa

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Does anyone know how change out the left foot peg?  The dealership service department wants over $100 to do it.. and the part costs $17.  The pin that holds the peg can not be lifted out because of the large hex bolt sleeve above it.  That bolt is torqued down hard!  Do I need to do that?  If so, does anyone know the torque value on that bolt?  Thanks in advance.

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This is a 15 minute job that you can do yourself.
You only have to remove bolt ([HASH]36) to swing the shift arm out of your way as a unit. The adjuster rod parts will pivot and stay together with the shift arm.
 
Take a look at the parts diagram and keep track of what order the pieces go back together.
 
When you have the pieces apart, measure the diameter of the threads on the pivot bolt ([HASH]36) for the shift pedal arm and use the enclosed chart for the applicable torque setting. Use caution and don't overtighten because you don't want to pinch the shift arm too tightly.
 
After you have the parts back together, take a felt marker and draw alignment dots close to each other on the shift arm and the pivot bolt ([HASH]36) so you can tell if that bolt ever needs re-tightening. Notice that the torque chart specifies clean and DRY threads.
 
Hover your mouse over the pics to enlarge them...
[attachment id=416" thumbnail="1]
[attachment id=417" thumbnail="1][attachment id=418" thumbnail="1]
 

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FYI - The reason that bolt is difficult to remove is due to the Loctite/thread locker that was used to secure it. When i removed mine, i used Loctite Blue 242 to re-secure the bolt.
 
Cheers,
 
 
 

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Thank you so much! That's what I needed to feel confident about removing that bolt. I appreciate your sharing the info and knowledge.

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captainbeard714

Good to know. Got a set of Gilles Tooling foot pegs waiting for me at home.

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captainbeard714

Successfully installed some Gilles tooling footpegs. Nothing too hard. But yes that bolt on the shifter lever was pretty hard to break loose cause of all the loctite on there and it being an allen head. But I got the job done.
 
IMG_7522.jpg

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Wanted to send Quixote an update-  I replaced the foot peg!  It was easy, just as you described.  Thanks again for the helpful photos and the specifications. 
 

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Anybody want to sell their right foot peg? I just pooched mine this afternoon. Actually stripped the threads for that [HASH]24, curb feeler thing. Not sure if it's worth putting a heli-coil in, or just buying a new one. Where would I buy that peg otherwise?
 
Edit:  Found it's part [HASH]1WS-27461-00-00 for a full retail price of $20.00.  Available at a few online sources for $15.00, but over $10.00 shipping!
 

“The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.”
— Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values)

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Hi ornery- I used this company: http://www.mrcycles.com/oemparts/a/yam/53a99b01f8700220a441581c/stand-footrest
The part is [HASH]18. It was $13.10 and est. shipping was $12.40. .. total $25.50
Ridiculous shipping charge for such a small, light weight part, but it beat the Yamaha dealership price!
Mine broke in the exact same spot.

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Ever hear of "JB Weld"?  Looks like I have a little job for it.  A Heli-Coil kit would be over $30.00, and I'll never have a use for that size again.  $25 is too much, but I'd spring $15 for it.  In the meantime, there are enough threads left, that I think JB Weld will do the job just fine.
 

“The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.”
— Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values)

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  • Global Moderator

I took the curb feelers off of ago. Why not just take the other one off and call it good?

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Well, I'm more of a car guy, than a bike guy. I've always preferred cars to be original, rather than modified. I want original color, accessories and mechanicals. I'm leaning that way with the bike as well. I figure it will be worth more when I sell it, if it looks as it did when new. Hell, I want to keep it looking like it's fresh off the showroom floor, for as long as possible.

“The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.”
— Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values)

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Well, I'm more of a car guy, than a bike guy. I've always preferred cars to be original, rather than modified. I want original color, accessories and mechanicals. I'm leaning that way with the bike as well. I figure it will be worth more when I sell it, if it looks as it did when new. Hell, I want to keep it looking like it's fresh off the showroom floor, for as long as possible.
Small things like those feelers or blinkers or a fender eliminator won't hurt nor will they help the selling value of the bike in the future.  I've never looked at a bike and saw something small I didn't like and valued the bike less.  Also, if you go by the blue book values, mods don't change the value any.  If it's what you like, by all means I'm not telling you to do anything you don't want to do, but don't do it thinking you're adding or retaining any extra value, you simply are not.  If you want to swap something out - do it! 

Life is good on 2 wheels!

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I don't know bikes, only cars, so bikes might be a lot different. But, I want it to look like it's been sitting in storage under a tarp since purchased, even if it has tens of thousands of miles on it and is decades old.  Guess I'm a purist:
 
indian-motorcycle.jpg
 
Not that these plastic clad machines will ever be considered "iconic", it's just the way I treat all my vehicles and equipment in general.
 
Yamaha-tx500_cobbed.jpg
 

“The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.”
— Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values)

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I tried JB Weld.  It worked fine until I drug the foot peg in a turn.  It got swiped right off. 
The threaded metal hole for the peg was bent out on mine, so I couldn't use a coil without creating a ridiculously large hole. Plus,I couldn't be sure of making the new thread exactly the same angle as the other foot rest hole.
I thought about just leaving it off, but if I'm going to get that close to the pavement in turns, I'd rather have that peg in place to take the brunt/scaring rather than the foot rest.  Plus, in terms of the dynamics of the bike and traction in a turn, I'm not sure about maintaining a grip at an angle where the foot rest is scraping the pavement.  I think of the pegs as a warning.
Has anyone seen lean limits with the stock Michelin tires?  After seeing the wear pattern on the edge of my tires (chicken strips about 1/8") I value the pegs ::)
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If I were riding that aggressively, I'd just cough up the $25.00. That's the price you pay for dropping the bike, and I'd be thankful it wasn't worse!

“The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.”
— Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values)

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  • 1 month later...
I took the curb feelers off of ago. Why not just take the other one off and call it good?
I just tipped over my bike this morning (thought I had the stand all the way down...didn't react fast enough to hold up the bike while I was still straddling and laid her down as gently as I could) and the left curb feeler broke off the screw socket. Was wondering if I should just replace the foot peg or try to glue it back on. 
This solution was so simple it just blew my mind...
 
But seriously though, do we need those curb feelers? First time rider with 300 miles on the bike, so honestly don't know. I'm assuming it's supposed to let you know if you're leaning too far and scraping the road right? That sounds like an important thing.... on paper :D
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  • Global Moderator

I figured that I would know if I was leaning too far. The pegs will touch before you lose traction on a good road and if the road is not good you should not be leaned that far anyway. I ended up buying two short hex head screws and using those just so I would not scrap the pegs. Any decent hardware store will have them.

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I figured that I would know if I was leaning too far. The pegs will touch before you lose traction on a good road and if the road is not good you should not be leaned that far anyway. I ended up buying two short hex head screws and using those just so I would not scrap the pegs. Any decent hardware store will have them.
The drop actually broke the screw thread on the foot peg itself, the bolt is still intact. The bottom of the peg is now only 1 side of the screw thread. I'll try gluing the bolt in place with epoxy or something, hopefully it holds if I ever do lean far enough to scrape the road. If it get knocked off, at least I'll know I'm probably leaning too far.
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