jbird Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 Yeah, gotta agree, it's really hard to ride these thing home with a broken clutch cable - replace it Unscrew the barrel adjuster and look for any sharp edges - especially where that split is cut. its not actually broken just barely fraayed, and probably did 3k miles on it before i even noticed, so im thinking...very unlikely to snap free Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YZEtc Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Just ordered one...removing the gas panels is not nessisary the cable runs just behind the headlights shroud behind the radiator, you can pull it out by hand. What I'm not sure of is how the cable is fed thrugh its insulation sheath if the butt ends are already crimped on from the factory You'll be getting a completely new cable, inner steel wire and black-colored outer sheath, already assembled and ready for installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marthy Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 I use those... nothing to desasemble. About to break the 50K miles club with the FZ6R... original cables still working goodhttp://www.ezglidercablelube.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbird Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 Auusome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbird Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 youll be getting a completely new cable, inner steel wire and black-colored outer sheath, already assembled and ready for installation. Did you order after market, or through Yamaha parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 youll be getting a completely new cable, inner steel wire and black-colored outer sheath, already assembled and ready for installation. Did you order after market, or through Yamaha parts? Just order an OE cable (from Yamaha) or Motion Pro... either will work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kupeyloop Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 You have to be careful with these generic off the shelf lubricates. If the tube is Teflon coated and the lube is water based or has oils that can eat away at soft tube or Teflon, it will just attract abrasion dust and clump up, making the cable play stiffer rather than smoother. As a general rule of thumb, for enclosed lubrication jobs, use light graphite based lube as opposed to anything wet to avoid dirt and dust clumping and to simply make the surfaces smoother. You shouldn't need to lube these cables. Best thing you can do is redo the zip ties on them and make the curve bends in the cable housing less aggressive to make the cable relax. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 use light graphite based lube as opposed to anything wet to avoid dirt and dust clumping and to simply make the surfaces smoother. You shouldn't need to lube these cables. Now that you mention graphite. There's a product called LockEase. It's really meant as a lube for, you guessed it, locks. And this works far better for any lock than WD40 or whatever. But mostly it's a suspension of graphite in a liquid vehicle that evaporates away leaving a graphite coating behind. But, i agree. Lubing these cables is usually not all that necessary, unless yer riding in the rain a whole bunch. After some time, crud will get in there that lubing will help wash out. And bending the lever in a tip-over will also never help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YZEtc Posted June 14, 2015 Share Posted June 14, 2015 Okay so I lubricated my clutch cable, removed the lever and applied directly into cable housing and hose, and moved the cable up and down several times, by hand..after checking in the morning, residue had trickled down to the opposite end as expected, this usually works for abt 100 m or less, before the clutch lever begins to freeze up again making it a real bear to pull back, and it's getting aggravating, any ideas, or thoughts, am I lubricating this right, please informWant to revive this to add more info: Another cause of friction (which can lead to fraying of the steel wire and making the clutch lever harder to pull) is the steel wire rubbing against the end of the cable sheath due to the cable entering the clutch lever holder from a weird angle.On the FZ-07, this can be caused by the cable not being routed properly (even having the clutch cable positioned on the wrong side of the turn signal switch lead and speedometer lead where they all meet at the left side of the ignition switch can do this), or installing a different handlebar with a different bend or maybe even the stock handlebar rotated too far rearward. If your chafing/fraying is an inch or two from the end of the steel wire, that's my guess as to the cause. How do I know this?Because I tried it, myself, and got that result. When I switched to the Renthal Ultra Low handlebar last September, I changed the routing of the clutch cable, moving it to the other side of the turn signal switch lead and speedometer lead.5,000 miles of use has proven to me that was a mistake because my clutch cable wire, too, shows signs of chafing, although it's not actually frayed (yet). I put it back to it's original routing this morning.Instantly better feel at the clutch lever with an easier pull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbird Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 youll be getting a completely new cable, inner steel wire and black-colored outer sheath, already assembled and ready for installation. Did you order after market, or through Yamaha parts? Just order an OE cable (from Yamaha) or Motion Pro... either will work fine. Yup ordered and done installed myself, back to normal again shifting wit ease Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Mr.Puss Posted April 29, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted April 29, 2017 Anyone have input on this Dri-slide lubricant? (for cables) https://www.drislide.com/ Crush your enemies. See them driven before you. Hear the lamentations of their women. Fuss Life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemer Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 Anyone have input on this Dri-slide lubricant? (for cables) https://www.drislide.com/ I woke up a little ornery today and was about to ask if it was safe to use on adult toys but the coffee kicked in and slapped me upside the head. Is the stuff lithium based? I recall someone mentioning a dry chain lube they had used in the past and I wonder if it's the same stuff or just similar. Anyone, anyone? Bueller .... Bueller? Beemer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnakay Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 google is your friend...............https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=lubing+motorcycle+cables&oq=motorbike+lubing+cables&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0.23268j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#q=lubricate+motorcycle+cables Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemer Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 google is your friend............... https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=lubing+motorcycle+cables&oq=motorbike+lubing+cables&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0.23268j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#q=lubricate+motorcycle+cables Nooooo, FZ-07 Forum is my friend, see how you helped me? Ha, thanks! Beemer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ralph Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 I always use engine oil and have never had a problem but one thing I do is to always turn the slot in the adjuster so it faces down and back so crud n water cant lodge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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