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Yamaha FZ-07 Oil filter list of compatible filters


Cruizin

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EDIT: I no longer recommend the K&N filters. They used to be made by Hiflofiltro but changed suppliers and now they are failing and leaking oil. Multiple reports of this still occuring with K&N

Hiflofiltro still makes theirs and they are among the best for the money get em here MT07 fz07 HIFLOWFILTRO H204 Black Oil Filter
 
YAMAHA Part Number is 5GH-13440-50-00 Get it here cheaper than dealer http://bit.ly/2gYheiW
 
The following are also all compatible. And before anyone starts pointing out a favorite, remember that more important than brand of filter or oil is actual Frequency of oil and filter change.
 
AC-Delco PF2135
AMSOIL EAOM103
ARCTIC CAT 3201-044
ARCTIC CAT 3201-451
AUTOEDGE AL6017A
Baldwin B1400
Baldwin B7285
CARQUEST 85358
CARQUEST 85365
ChampLab PH2876
ChampLab PH7015
ChampLab PH7028
DENSO 115010-5390
Donaldson P502067
EMGO 10-26920
EMGO 10-82230
EMGO 10-82251
Fleetguard LF3925
Fram PH6017A
HASTINGS B7285
HASTINGS LF113
HIFLO HF198
HIFLO HF204
HIFLO HF303
K & N KN-198
K & N KN-204
K & N KN-303
K & N KN-303C

KAWASAKI 16097-0002
KAWASAKI 16097-0003
KAWASAKI 16097-0004
KAWASAKI 16097-1058
KAWASAKI 16097-1061
KAWASAKI 16097-1063
KAWASAKI 16097-1064
KAWASAKI 16097-1066
KAWASAKI 16097-1067
KAWASAKI 16097-1068
KAWASAKI 16097-1070
KAWASAKI 16097-1072
LUBER-FINER PH2876
LUBER-FINER PH7015
LUBER-FINER PH7028
MELROE 6671057
MERCRUISER 35-822626
MERCRUISER 35-822626Q04
MERCRUISER 35-822626Q1
MERCRUISER Q03
MERCURY 35-8222626Q03
MERCURY G590000-G760299
MERCURY G760300-1B226999
MERCURY P086824-P325499
NAPA 1358
NAPA 1365
NAPA PS1358
Parts Master 61358
POLARIS 2520799
POLARIS 2540086
POLARIS 3084963
POLARIS 3089996
Purolator ML16817
Purolator ML16819
ROBIN 2576730111
SIERRA 18-7902
SIERRA 18-7909
SIERRA 18-7910
SIERRA 18-7911
SIERRA 18-7911-1
SIERRA 18-7913
SILVERLINE 21358
STP PH7028
TOHATSU (Marine) 3R0076150M
TRIUMPH MOTORCYCLE T1210200
TRIUMPH MOTORCYCLE T1210444
WARNER PH7015
WESTERBEKE 30220
Wix 51358
Wix 51365
 

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Yamaha wants the 1st change to be done at 600 miles. If we opted to change it sooner, what oil would you guys use? I don't think we should use synthetic before at least 600 miles.

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It's summer here ... so .. just under 200 miles on the bike, what viscosity recommended? Was thinking standard Castrol 20w-40 just for the rest of the break-in period.

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Guest MXRider

Ah, an oil thread...
 
While I don't own an FZ yet, I have been using Yamalube for years and have been happy with it. I run their regular 10-40 in the transmission of my YZ250 and use their 2R premix for the fuel.
 
Regarding the synthetic thing, if you want to switch to it right off the bat, go for it. I've owned a few bikes that came filled with 100% synthetic from the factory. Most of the Euro companies fill their bikes with synthetic oil and recommend using them exclusively.
 
Whenever I get a new bike I do an oil and filter change after the first 50 or so miles, then again at about 250, then follow the manufacturers guidelines. You wouldn't believe some of the stuff I've seen come out of bikes with 50 miles on them, and prolonging the change just means that crud is circulating through the system and clogging up the oil filters. Usually the second and third oil changes are very clean unless there is an issue.
 
Forgot to add, if using a car oil, avoid any "energy conserving" oils in wet clutch applications. Using an oil with these friction modifiers designed to improve fuel economy can and usually will cause clutch slippage after little time or use. A very popular and proven car oil that people run in their bikes is Shell Rotella T 15w-40, or T6 synthetic 5w-40. Both carry the JASO-MA rating and are safe to use in a wet clutch motorcycle. The non synthetic stuff sells for about $12 a gallon jug at Walmart.
 

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Thanks for posting this, saves a ton of trouble searching for it.

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Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.

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Guest unknown

Might as well add a little bit of extra oil change info in here:
 
Drain Plug Socket = 17mm (Torque to 43 Nm)
Oil Filter Wrench = "F" Type wrench (Torque to 17 Nm)
 
I rarely use a oil filter wrench but this filter was on so damn tight from the factory that I had no other choice.
 
I also, as a force of habit, do this when changing my oil:
After draining the oil completely, I will pour 0.25 qts through the filler without the plug in. This may catch any metal and flush out debris stuck on the bottom of the drainpan.

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For my first oil change I purchased this drain plug:140.jpgDimple magnetic drain plug
Its a good idea to have one of these especially during the break-in/new engine process. It legitimately removes metal shavings within your oil.  This is one of the strongest ones out. The hotter a magnet gets the less powerful it is. I was able to pick up a pair of vise grips with no problem with this plug. I will be changing my oil to synthetic during my first service. Thanks for posting the filters!

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I went to my dealer in new York and asked for a filter and 3 quarts of yamalube, I was shocked what it cost me one quart of yamalube 10w-50 simiblend was $11.50 each, Yamaha filter 14.50 and a can of wax chain lube $11.59 total = $65.89 did I get ripped off??????????????

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Guest MXRider

 

I went to my dealer in new York and asked for a filter and 3 quarts of yamalube, I was shocked what it cost me one quart of yamalube 10w-50 simiblend was $11.50 each, Yamaha filter 14.50 and a can of wax chain lube $11.59 total = $65.89 did I get ripped off??????????????
 
Big time.
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Guest MXRider

Most of the time an oil change costs me $25 or so on a bike like this. $4-$5 a quart of oil and usually under $10 for a filter.
 
I don't think I ever paid $14 for an oil filter, even on some of the Italian bikes I've owned.
 
Just wanted to add that I found them online as low as $9 each plus shipping, so if you buy a few at a time it makes it worth while. I haven't checked my price at my local dealer. I typically get 20% off on parts. Some of the alternatives come up pretty cheap, the Wix filters are about $7 each.
 
IIRC I pay $20 a gallon for Yamalube 10w-40 conventional. If you want to go with a synthetic, Walmart usually has Mobil1 4T 10w-40 for under $10 a quart.
 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've used mobile 1 4T 10w-40 synthetic in my last bike and it seemed to work good. I usually change my oil way earlier than the manufactures recommendations tho haha. I'm thinking after 40 or so miles I'll change the oil and filter with Dino oil and then around the 600 or 700 mark I'll be switching to synthetic. Anyone have any gripes about mobile 1 syn oil?

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Guest MXRider

 

I've used mobile 1 4T 10w-40 synthetic in my last bike and it seemed to work good. I usually change my oil way earlier than the manufactures recommendations tho haha. I'm thinking after 40 or so miles I'll change the oil and filter with Dino oil and then around the 600 or 700 mark I'll be switching to synthetic. Anyone have any gripes about mobile 1 syn oil?
 
Mobil1 4T is very good oil. It's pretty reasonably priced too at some of the auto parts stores.
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Ah, an oil thread... 
Shell Rotella T 15w-40, or T6 synthetic 5w-40. Both carry the JASO-MA rating and are safe to use in a wet clutch motorcycle. The non synthetic stuff sells for about $12 a gallon jug at Walmart.

+1 Used Rotella on my last 5 bikes, and it works great. 
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For my first oil change I purchased this drain plug:140.jpgDimple magnetic drain plug Its a good idea to have one of these especially during the break-in/new engine process. It legitimately removes metal shavings within your oil.  This is one of the strongest ones out. The hotter a magnet gets the less powerful it is. I was able to pick up a pair of vise grips with no problem with this plug. I will be changing my oil to synthetic during my first service. Thanks for posting the filters!
This is nice but not needed. That's what the filter is for, and does a good job at it. 
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Ok, from my, some what, long experience with bikes, cruiser and many rockets and some dirt bikes, here is what has worked without any harm done to my bikes.
if you reach the manufacturer mileage for the oil change withing 6 month use dino (Rotella), if you think you gona go over the mileage or the 6 month, use synthetic (Mobil 1).
Synthetic is only worth it for going over recommended oil change. With a car you can go 12 month or 7500 miles on Synthetic.
There is NO need to change oil any sooner, but to spend your money, have fun doing it or feel better about your bike.
For the filter, WallyWorld brand works just fine as well.
The number one rule to remember about any motor is, lubrication. As long as you have lubrication, the motor will be fine.
An example, my ex-wife who forgot to do her 1st oil change on her Subaru, until the car was at 15000 miles. Her car is still running strong at 149000 miles.
 

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So any of these oil filters will work? Is there differences in size? Which one is closest to manufacturers oil filter?

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  • 3 weeks later...
For my first oil change I purchased this drain plug:140.jpgDimple magnetic drain plug Its a good idea to have one of these especially during the break-in/new engine process. It legitimately removes metal shavings within your oil.  This is one of the strongest ones out. The hotter a magnet gets the less powerful it is. I was able to pick up a pair of vise grips with no problem with this plug. I will be changing my oil to synthetic during my first service. Thanks for posting the filters!
Is that the size you have?
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For my first oil change I purchased this drain plug:140.jpgDimple magnetic drain plug Its a good idea to have one of these especially during the break-in/new engine process. It legitimately removes metal shavings within your oil.  This is one of the strongest ones out. The hotter a magnet gets the less powerful it is. I was able to pick up a pair of vise grips with no problem with this plug. I will be changing my oil to synthetic during my first service. Thanks for posting the filters!
Is that the size you have?
Correct. 14x1.5x16 is the size of the drain plug. I put it on about 300 miles ago at my first service. 
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