Cruizin Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 EDIT: I no longer recommend the K&N filters. They used to be made by Hiflofiltro but changed suppliers and now they are failing and leaking oil. Multiple reports of this still occuring with K&N Hiflofiltro still makes theirs and they are among the best for the money get em here MT07 fz07 HIFLOWFILTRO H204 Black Oil Filter YAMAHA Part Number is 5GH-13440-50-00 Get it here cheaper than dealer http://bit.ly/2gYheiW The following are also all compatible. And before anyone starts pointing out a favorite, remember that more important than brand of filter or oil is actual Frequency of oil and filter change. AC-Delco PF2135 AMSOIL EAOM103 ARCTIC CAT 3201-044 ARCTIC CAT 3201-451 AUTOEDGE AL6017A Baldwin B1400 Baldwin B7285 CARQUEST 85358 CARQUEST 85365 ChampLab PH2876 ChampLab PH7015 ChampLab PH7028 DENSO 115010-5390 Donaldson P502067 EMGO 10-26920 EMGO 10-82230 EMGO 10-82251 Fleetguard LF3925 Fram PH6017A HASTINGS B7285 HASTINGS LF113 HIFLO HF198 HIFLO HF204 HIFLO HF303K & N KN-198 K & N KN-204 K & N KN-303 K & N KN-303C KAWASAKI 16097-0002 KAWASAKI 16097-0003 KAWASAKI 16097-0004 KAWASAKI 16097-1058 KAWASAKI 16097-1061 KAWASAKI 16097-1063 KAWASAKI 16097-1064 KAWASAKI 16097-1066 KAWASAKI 16097-1067 KAWASAKI 16097-1068 KAWASAKI 16097-1070 KAWASAKI 16097-1072 LUBER-FINER PH2876 LUBER-FINER PH7015 LUBER-FINER PH7028 MELROE 6671057 MERCRUISER 35-822626 MERCRUISER 35-822626Q04 MERCRUISER 35-822626Q1 MERCRUISER Q03 MERCURY 35-8222626Q03 MERCURY G590000-G760299 MERCURY G760300-1B226999 MERCURY P086824-P325499 NAPA 1358 NAPA 1365 NAPA PS1358 Parts Master 61358 POLARIS 2520799 POLARIS 2540086 POLARIS 3084963 POLARIS 3089996 Purolator ML16817 Purolator ML16819 ROBIN 2576730111 SIERRA 18-7902 SIERRA 18-7909 SIERRA 18-7910 SIERRA 18-7911 SIERRA 18-7911-1 SIERRA 18-7913 SILVERLINE 21358 STP PH7028 TOHATSU (Marine) 3R0076150M TRIUMPH MOTORCYCLE T1210200 TRIUMPH MOTORCYCLE T1210444 WARNER PH7015 WESTERBEKE 30220 Wix 51358 Wix 51365 9 Yamaha MT-10 ForumYamaha Tracer 900 Forum Yamaha Ténéré 700 Forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryv Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 Yamaha wants the 1st change to be done at 600 miles. If we opted to change it sooner, what oil would you guys use? I don't think we should use synthetic before at least 600 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryv Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 It's summer here ... so .. just under 200 miles on the bike, what viscosity recommended? Was thinking standard Castrol 20w-40 just for the rest of the break-in period. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryv Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 Oh heck ... Yamalube is cheap enough 5.99 per quart. I'll use that. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruizin Posted July 24, 2014 Author Share Posted July 24, 2014 Can't go wrong with Yamalube. Also, never buy the oil change kits at the dealer for $40.00. Oil and filter cost less than that on your own. Yamaha MT-10 ForumYamaha Tracer 900 Forum Yamaha Ténéré 700 Forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dravyck Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 I went with yamalube 20w50. 1 82 Yamaha XJ550 Maxim Black (Passed Away) 15 Yamaha FZ-07 White Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MXRider Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 Ah, an oil thread... While I don't own an FZ yet, I have been using Yamalube for years and have been happy with it. I run their regular 10-40 in the transmission of my YZ250 and use their 2R premix for the fuel. Regarding the synthetic thing, if you want to switch to it right off the bat, go for it. I've owned a few bikes that came filled with 100% synthetic from the factory. Most of the Euro companies fill their bikes with synthetic oil and recommend using them exclusively. Whenever I get a new bike I do an oil and filter change after the first 50 or so miles, then again at about 250, then follow the manufacturers guidelines. You wouldn't believe some of the stuff I've seen come out of bikes with 50 miles on them, and prolonging the change just means that crud is circulating through the system and clogging up the oil filters. Usually the second and third oil changes are very clean unless there is an issue. Forgot to add, if using a car oil, avoid any "energy conserving" oils in wet clutch applications. Using an oil with these friction modifiers designed to improve fuel economy can and usually will cause clutch slippage after little time or use. A very popular and proven car oil that people run in their bikes is Shell Rotella T 15w-40, or T6 synthetic 5w-40. Both carry the JASO-MA rating and are safe to use in a wet clutch motorcycle. The non synthetic stuff sells for about $12 a gallon jug at Walmart. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruizin Posted July 25, 2014 Author Share Posted July 25, 2014 The Rotella is good stuff. Yamaha MT-10 ForumYamaha Tracer 900 Forum Yamaha Ténéré 700 Forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member V8titanpwr Posted July 25, 2014 Premium Member Share Posted July 25, 2014 Thanks for posting this, saves a ton of trouble searching for it. 1 Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliz Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 The Rotella is good stuff. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest unknown Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Might as well add a little bit of extra oil change info in here: Drain Plug Socket = 17mm (Torque to 43 Nm) Oil Filter Wrench = "F" Type wrench (Torque to 17 Nm) I rarely use a oil filter wrench but this filter was on so damn tight from the factory that I had no other choice. I also, as a force of habit, do this when changing my oil: After draining the oil completely, I will pour 0.25 qts through the filler without the plug in. This may catch any metal and flush out debris stuck on the bottom of the drainpan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator Guru Posted July 28, 2014 Global Moderator Share Posted July 28, 2014 Might as well post this pic here too so everything is in one place: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/33459059/oil.png 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member GAZ Posted July 29, 2014 Premium Member Share Posted July 29, 2014 For my first oil change I purchased this drain plug:Dimple magnetic drain plug Its a good idea to have one of these especially during the break-in/new engine process. It legitimately removes metal shavings within your oil. This is one of the strongest ones out. The hotter a magnet gets the less powerful it is. I was able to pick up a pair of vise grips with no problem with this plug. I will be changing my oil to synthetic during my first service. Thanks for posting the filters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NICKY NEON Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 I went to my dealer in new York and asked for a filter and 3 quarts of yamalube, I was shocked what it cost me one quart of yamalube 10w-50 simiblend was $11.50 each, Yamaha filter 14.50 and a can of wax chain lube $11.59 total = $65.89 did I get ripped off????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MXRider Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 I went to my dealer in new York and asked for a filter and 3 quarts of yamalube, I was shocked what it cost me one quart of yamalube 10w-50 simiblend was $11.50 each, Yamaha filter 14.50 and a can of wax chain lube $11.59 total = $65.89 did I get ripped off????? Big time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NICKY NEON Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 what should I pay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MXRider Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Most of the time an oil change costs me $25 or so on a bike like this. $4-$5 a quart of oil and usually under $10 for a filter. I don't think I ever paid $14 for an oil filter, even on some of the Italian bikes I've owned. Just wanted to add that I found them online as low as $9 each plus shipping, so if you buy a few at a time it makes it worth while. I haven't checked my price at my local dealer. I typically get 20% off on parts. Some of the alternatives come up pretty cheap, the Wix filters are about $7 each. IIRC I pay $20 a gallon for Yamalube 10w-40 conventional. If you want to go with a synthetic, Walmart usually has Mobil1 4T 10w-40 for under $10 a quart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qjohnson Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 I've used mobile 1 4T 10w-40 synthetic in my last bike and it seemed to work good. I usually change my oil way earlier than the manufactures recommendations tho haha. I'm thinking after 40 or so miles I'll change the oil and filter with Dino oil and then around the 600 or 700 mark I'll be switching to synthetic. Anyone have any gripes about mobile 1 syn oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MXRider Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 I've used mobile 1 4T 10w-40 synthetic in my last bike and it seemed to work good. I usually change my oil way earlier than the manufactures recommendations tho haha. I'm thinking after 40 or so miles I'll change the oil and filter with Dino oil and then around the 600 or 700 mark I'll be switching to synthetic. Anyone have any gripes about mobile 1 syn oil? Mobil1 4T is very good oil. It's pretty reasonably priced too at some of the auto parts stores. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cassecou Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 Ah, an oil thread... Shell Rotella T 15w-40, or T6 synthetic 5w-40. Both carry the JASO-MA rating and are safe to use in a wet clutch motorcycle. The non synthetic stuff sells for about $12 a gallon jug at Walmart. +1 Used Rotella on my last 5 bikes, and it works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cassecou Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 For my first oil change I purchased this drain plug:Dimple magnetic drain plug Its a good idea to have one of these especially during the break-in/new engine process. It legitimately removes metal shavings within your oil. This is one of the strongest ones out. The hotter a magnet gets the less powerful it is. I was able to pick up a pair of vise grips with no problem with this plug. I will be changing my oil to synthetic during my first service. Thanks for posting the filters! This is nice but not needed. That's what the filter is for, and does a good job at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cassecou Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 Ok, from my, some what, long experience with bikes, cruiser and many rockets and some dirt bikes, here is what has worked without any harm done to my bikes. if you reach the manufacturer mileage for the oil change withing 6 month use dino (Rotella), if you think you gona go over the mileage or the 6 month, use synthetic (Mobil 1). Synthetic is only worth it for going over recommended oil change. With a car you can go 12 month or 7500 miles on Synthetic. There is NO need to change oil any sooner, but to spend your money, have fun doing it or feel better about your bike. For the filter, WallyWorld brand works just fine as well. The number one rule to remember about any motor is, lubrication. As long as you have lubrication, the motor will be fine. An example, my ex-wife who forgot to do her 1st oil change on her Subaru, until the car was at 15000 miles. Her car is still running strong at 149000 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qjohnson Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 So any of these oil filters will work? Is there differences in size? Which one is closest to manufacturers oil filter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feliz Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 For my first oil change I purchased this drain plug:Dimple magnetic drain plug Its a good idea to have one of these especially during the break-in/new engine process. It legitimately removes metal shavings within your oil. This is one of the strongest ones out. The hotter a magnet gets the less powerful it is. I was able to pick up a pair of vise grips with no problem with this plug. I will be changing my oil to synthetic during my first service. Thanks for posting the filters! Is that the size you have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member GAZ Posted August 29, 2014 Premium Member Share Posted August 29, 2014 For my first oil change I purchased this drain plug:Dimple magnetic drain plug Its a good idea to have one of these especially during the break-in/new engine process. It legitimately removes metal shavings within your oil. This is one of the strongest ones out. The hotter a magnet gets the less powerful it is. I was able to pick up a pair of vise grips with no problem with this plug. I will be changing my oil to synthetic during my first service. Thanks for posting the filters! Is that the size you have?Correct. 14x1.5x16 is the size of the drain plug. I put it on about 300 miles ago at my first service. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now