Premium Member forcefed86 Posted January 9, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted January 9, 2017 Center electrode looks a little rounded but not bad. 12k huh? Might just pull mine at 8k miles and regap them. ***WATCH FOR COUNTERFEIT NGK AND OTHER PLUGS*** Yeah 12k miles. The bike fires right up now with 1-2 cranks as before would take longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhb Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 To my eye those plugs you pulled are burning really lean, they are Too clean, but I am used to carb bikes burning a nice light to medium tan color, are you running aftermarket exhaust with no fueling adjustment? just curious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markstertt Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 rhb, that's normal coloring for this bike and fueling, you can't read these plugs like in the good old days... peteinpa, I think the rounded center electrode is as much of an issue as is the slight increase in gap, if you're going to reuse your old plugs then open up the gap enough to get a needle file or points file in there and square that center electrode back to its original sharp edged flat plateau, the electrons jump from the center to the side, ground electrode, much easier and at lower voltage from a sharp edge as original. Of course then carefully regap. You may already know this but if not just thought I'd throw it out there since it's a bit of work to change those plugs out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member forcefed86 Posted January 9, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted January 9, 2017 To my eye those plugs you pulled are burning really lean, they are Too clean, but I am used to carb bikes burning a nice light to medium tan color, are you running aftermarket exhaust with no fueling adjustment? just curious. No, i have stock exhaust and filter. Have always ran 91 octane from day 1. However, every 3k or so i would pour some sea foam from to gas or marbel mystery oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteinpa Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 NGK is listing the life of this plug as 30k miles. I wonder if that includes squaring off the electrodes periodically. Got new red 2015 FZ-07 on 7/22/16! Black 2006 Honda ST1300 53K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markstertt Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 NGK is listing the life of this plug as 30k miles. I wonder if that includes squaring off the electrodes periodically. peteinpa, after my last answer on plug reconditioning, I went out and looked at my used plugs and have decided my recommendation may not be the best advice in light of how small and fragile these plugs are, new plugs every 8 to 10k miles would probably be the best answer. A careless side load on the center electrode could easily fracture the porcelain insulator which could lead to catastrophic engine problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member hobbs Posted January 10, 2017 Author Premium Member Share Posted January 10, 2017 After you've done it once, it's fairly quick procedure moving forward. Spent just over 30 minutes on the 2nd installation. Everything went braap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Jeckler Posted January 14, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted January 14, 2017 Just finished doing this today. I used a few zip ties looped together to pull the coils and an 18mm socket backwards on an extension to push them back on after replacement. Had to get yet another spark plug socket too. Kind of neat though, it's magnetic instead of having a rubber insert. Since I was changing the air filter too, I just removed the tank all together. It's literally one more connection. One drip. - Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jckruz Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 I apologize if this is a dumb question: Can I use this spark plug? I am not sure the difference between the -9 and the -9s, and I don't want to mess something up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator mjh937 Posted February 12, 2017 Global Moderator Share Posted February 12, 2017 I apologize if this is a dumb question: Can I use this spark plug? I am not sure the difference between the -9 and the -9s, and I don't want to mess something up. The NGK website says the S means special gasket. It does not say what is special about it but I would go with the spark plug that Yamaha specifies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member hobbs Posted February 15, 2017 Author Premium Member Share Posted February 15, 2017 Check out ebay too. I got a pack of 4 for 22 bucks from a California motorsports dealer, shipping was free. Everything went braap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dentalprodigy Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 I'm trying to get these rubber spark plug house out and struggling. Very frustrating. User manual says, twist and pull but it's not budging. My gas tank is propped up with rubber mallet. Should be enough clearance. Am I just a weakling? Any tips appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
booboobusfz07 Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 I'm trying to get these rubber spark plug house out and struggling. Very frustrating. User manual says, twist and pull but it's not budging. My gas tank is propped up with rubber mallet. Should be enough clearance. Am I just a weakling? Any tips appreciated Be patient and they should just wiggle out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member noodles Posted March 1, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted March 1, 2017 I have pulled on the caps so hard I thought I'd break my fingers. I only got one out (brake side), but the cap actually separated form the bottom rubber boot that covers the porcelain of the spark plug. Nothing looked ripped, just separated, as though the bottom rubber portion was held onto the plastic portion I got out by friction only. I tried to pinch the remainimg bottom rubber boot with pliers and pull it out but only succeeded in ripping the rubber. Anyone have any ideas? I reassembled everything resolving to take it to a shop to do it for me, but I really don't want to shell out for 2 hours of labor I could do myself. I'm going to try myself one more time. My plan of attack is to try to break the seal of the rubber with a slim pick, and to attempt removal after a ride while the engine is warm - not hot. Hopefully the rubber will be more forgiving while warm. And hopefully when I pull the plug out this time the whole assembly will come out like God intended. And if I do get it out, I'll be applying dielectric grease so I don't break my hand getting them out again 8,000 miles down the road. his face seems pulled and tenselike he's riding on a motorbike in the strongest winds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member noodles Posted March 5, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted March 5, 2017 I managed to get the stuck boot out. I had to pierce it with a metal pick and ease it out. Of course the lip was destroyed trying to pull it out, though. The first picture is the brake side cylinder's plug in two pieces as it came out, the second is the clutch side that popped right out in one piece. If anyone reads this before attempting this job, you need silicone spray and you need to get the engine up to 200 degrees while you are disassembling the body panels. When you get the panels off and you're ready to move the tank, shut it off. The head will cool enough by the time you move the tank and the electrical system out of the way. The silicone spray will get you the rest of the way. My problem was that the engine was stone cold in 40 degree weather, so my silicone spray only separated the rubber junction of the two pieces rather than loosen the entire assembly. 2 his face seems pulled and tenselike he's riding on a motorbike in the strongest winds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregjet Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Silicone is spectacularly insulating and "creeps" in a mono layer. Keep it away from electrical components unless you want some unexplainable electrical problems. WD40 (DWF, RP& etc) will do. It is harmless and will wipe clean . Thin layers of it won't insulate. 1 Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dentalprodigy Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 I have the brake side rubber boot thing out. But my 14mm deep well socket doesn't fit the spark plug. How am I getting this thing out. I have multiple socket extensions and all. It just doesn't grab onto the old spark plug. What to do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member norcal616 Posted March 5, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted March 5, 2017 Not all 14mm sockets are the same...some have thick walls, some are tapered shaped, some brands are just plain junk, some deep well sockets are not deep enough... 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dentalprodigy Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Ok... i guess the harbor freight ones are junk.. off to home depot i go now and i'll get some quality ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dentalprodigy Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 What's confusing me is that the 14mm deep well socket fits the brand new spark plug but not the one that's installed in the bike. Anyway, this Sunday was another fail for me. I'll report back with the new deep well socket set Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
booboobusfz07 Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 What's confusing me is that the 14mm deep well socket fits the brand new spark plug but not the one that's installed in the bike. Anyway, this Sunday was another fail for me. I'll report back with the new deep well socket set I bought a gearwrench 5/8ths spark plug socket/extension. Like 12$ at carquest. Worked perfectly. https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80546-8-Inch-6-Inch-Swivel/dp/B0014ZVSVK 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhb Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 It would be advisable to get a spark plug specific deep well socket with and insulator capturing device inside the socket to prevent damage to the plug. It will also grab the plug as you pull out the socket. My 200cc naked sport bike has identical type plugs as the FZ. long thin and a a lot of thread (long reach) You won't find it at home Depot maybe, you should try a local auto supply or job shop with professional grade tools. how do you upload a picture This is a High quality Taiwanese brand available in Philippines in case your wondering. Snapon, SK not available here. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dentalprodigy Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 What's confusing me is that the 14mm deep well socket fits the brand new spark plug but not the one that's installed in the bike. Anyway, this Sunday was another fail for me. I'll report back with the new deep well socket set I bought a gearwrench 5/8ths spark plug socket/extension. Like 12$ at carquest. Worked perfectly. https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80546-8-Inch-6-Inch-Swivel/dp/B0014ZVSVK Possibly dumb question. Will this fit our spark plugs even though 5/8th isn't exactly 14 mm? https://goo.gl/photos/ULEd5ZdmL3pb2TsR8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
booboobusfz07 Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 It worked out fine for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhb Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 I bought a gearwrench 5/8ths spark plug socket/extension. Like 12$ at carquest. Worked perfectly. https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80546-8-Inch-6-Inch-Swivel/dp/B0014ZVSVK Possibly dumb question. Will this fit our spark plugs even though 5/8th isn't exactly 14 mm? https://goo.gl/photos/ULEd5ZdmL3pb2TsR8 Do yourself a favor and get some metric tools. 5/8" = 15.875 mm . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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