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DIY: FZ-07 Spark Plugs


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On 8/3/2018 at 4:36 PM, faffi said:

Bike has 9k miles on it now and belongs to my son. Knowing him, he will not change them until he have to. Really have to 😄

But have you received them yet? I want to order them, but want to know if they're right.

 

Does the end screw off that the coil goes on?

Got new red 2015 FZ-07 on 7/22/16!
Black 2006 Honda ST1300 53K miles.

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Hmm, based on the color of those tops, I would guess they will not unscrew. They will be more silver in color if they were designed to unscrew 

 

 

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Hm, I'll have to try and remember to check when I visit the kid next time. I just noticed that the sparkplug next to the correct box had no cap on in the picture.

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well I just received them. They do not have the correct terminal on the end and it does not screw off.

 

Trying to decide if I want to mod the end or return them.  I really want iridium plugs.

 

markstertt:  where is your post about modding them? think I can do it without a lathe? All I have is a grinding tool.

Got new red 2015 FZ-07 on 7/22/16!
Black 2006 Honda ST1300 53K miles.

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On 7/19/2018 at 5:41 AM, faffi said:

Basic NGKs generally do not make for very good spark plugs. Fit iridiums and have peace for 50k miles.

Curious what issues you've had with NGK's?  They are THE plug of choice for every dirt rider I know, and all the nitrous guys I used to run with. I started using NGK after Champion became hard to obtain and haven't had an issue. 

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14 hours ago, shinyribs said:

Curious what issues you've had with NGK's?  They are THE plug of choice for every dirt rider I know, and all the nitrous guys I used to run with. I started using NGK after Champion became hard to obtain and haven't had an issue. 

NGK plugs are the best, that's not the problem. It's about the upgrade to iridium NGK'S.

 

I got them installed, had to dremel the terminal end down to the diameter of the threaded stud.

thanks for the tip of a string to pull up the coils.

Now with the iridium NGK'S should be good for 50k miles. 👍😁

Got new red 2015 FZ-07 on 7/22/16!
Black 2006 Honda ST1300 53K miles.

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19 hours ago, shinyribs said:

Curious what issues you've had with NGK's?  They are THE plug of choice for every dirt rider I know, and all the nitrous guys I used to run with. I started using NGK after Champion became hard to obtain and haven't had an issue. 

 

They wet-soak very easily and short out. I've used a lot of NGKs, and when things are right, they do fine. But if an engine isn't properly tuned, like a two-stroke getting too much oil or any engine getting a much too rich mixture or the ignition being weak, in my experience nothing give up sooner than NGK standard plug. They short out and spark is then erratic at best.

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On ‎8‎/‎17‎/‎2018 at 11:28 AM, peteinpa said:

well I just received them. They do not have the correct terminal on the end and it does not screw off.

 

Trying to decide if I want to mod the end or return them.  I really want iridium plugs.

 

markstertt:  where is your post about modding them? think I can do it without a lathe? All I have is a grinding tool.

Sorry, I just saw this but it sounds like you figured it out...I didn't take any pictures but with a little care using a Dremel or bench grinder this reprofiling of the end is not to bad especially since we only have 2 plugs. I used my Dremel with the thin cut off wheels to cut the grooves into the top terminal as it spun in the lathe, as you probably know, the grooves provide the retention for the coil cap but thought I'd mention it for anyone else.

 

 

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  • 4 months later...

Changed my plugs and air filter today and it took me 6 hours, what a bear of a job just to change the plugs!

Bike has done about  10000 km and I'm doing a larger service myself over the winter downtime.

Old plugs looked mint btw, no need to change them but of cause I did it anyway after dismounting everything.

Used the tips in this tread and the Haynes manual, thanks to those who contributed.

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longrider1951

I haven't read all the posts in this thread but I'll pass on a tip I learned too long ago.  When you put the new plug in use a piece of vacuum hose pushed over the plug insulator to start the plug thread by hand.  You'll have a much better "feel" of when you have it threaded correctly.  It's a lot better than using a socket and hoping your not cross threading. 

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  • 2 months later...

So this might be a little

late but I came across this thread after searching to see if anyone was running an alternative to the ngk4313.  I was quite surprised to see the steps involved to change the plugs. Maybe this has been addressed already but it’s not necessary to remove both side panels , nor the tank.  Remove the seat, remove the right side panel and everything can be accessed from there. A normal 3/8 drive 14mm and short 3/8 extension will suffice. It helps to have a stub handled ratchet but not necessary. I also used a small pickup magnet to grab the plugs. The coils may seem like they won’t clear but you can easily push the wire harness over to angle them out.  Caveat- I was a auto tech but it really isn’t hard so don’t be afraid to do this maintenance yourself. It took about 25 minutes even with taking a few pics/video in case someone asked.  Also, dielectric isn’t necessary but not a bad idea but The coil boot isn’t what makes these difficult to remove, it’s the “teeth” on the end of the coil and plug. 

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1 hour ago, turbodmac said:

So this might be a little

late but I came across this thread after searching to see if anyone was running an alternative to the ngk4313.  I was quite surprised to see the steps involved to change the plugs. Maybe this has been addressed already but it’s not necessary to remove both side panels , nor the tank...

Was this the ABS version of the bike? 

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No , non abs. Is the ABS module on the right side as well? Next time I get the chance I’ll see if I can get to the plugs from left side as well. I know the thick harness is on that side but I think it’s doable .

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I have no better pic right now, but I think you can see the important things. 

Yes, the hydraulic unit is on the right side. When I changed the spark plugs, I saw no other way than loosing the right components tray (fixed to the main frame with two M6 hex nuts from the left side) and move the hydraulic stuff a little bit to the right. Then you have a little bit of room to move the right igition coil upwards. I was really wondering how you manged this by only removing the seat and one panel :D 

absversion.thumb.jpg.b6150b61f38baf5dcb785331c6babb98.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys. im about to do the change but my plug came from Partzilla shown these number LMAR8A-9S. Whats the  extra S stands for?

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Just now, sen07 said:

Hi guys. im about to do the change but my plug came from Partzilla shown these number LMAR8A-9S. Whats the  extra S stands for?

I've read somewhere the 'S' is for a Honda specific crush washer but after comparing the two side by side I see no visable difference. I also realised I've used the 2 interchangeably before, I've ordered the '9' and received the '9s'. Here's a pic side by side, used 9 with the new 9s, I didn't have a new 9 for comparison;

IMG_20190313_201947.thumb.jpg.49c513a6e9874ec80b47cd4cee039703.jpg

IMG_20190313_203144.thumb.jpg.633e2744664004c6ca797d5439b9ad9d.jpg

Edited by mossrider
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6 minutes ago, mossrider said:

I've read somewhere the 'S' is for a Honda specific crush washer but after comparing the two side by side I see no visable difference. I also realised I've used the 2 interchangeably before, I've ordered the '9' and received the '9s'. Here's a pic side by side, used 9 with the new 9s, I didn't have a new 9 for comparison;

IMG_20190313_201947.thumb.jpg.49c513a6e9874ec80b47cd4cee039703.jpg

Ahh i love this forum, faster and more response. Since you are not having problem with the S, then ill be changing mine soon. Thanks!

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Turns out I did have new 9 and 9s;

IMG_20190313_204953.thumb.jpg.b28863ef1948fcf4b35c339051813d10.jpg

IMG_20190313_205901.thumb.jpg.eac0b731b5b5af201eb50f538edede43.jpg

Looks like the 9s is a couple thousandths smaller outside diameter, same shape and appearance.

Essentially the same.

 

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1 hour ago, mossrider said:

Turns out I did have new 9 and 9s;

 

 

Looks like the 9s is a couple thousandths smaller outside diameter, same shape and appearance.

Essentially the same.

 

You should be fine with one of each.

FYI: If you want to consider longer life iridium plugs please see this thread for info. I believe it's the thread referenced by @mossrider.

 

 

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DewMan
 
Just shut up and ride.

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Just now, DewMan said:

You should be fine with one of each.

FYI: If you want to consider longer life iridium plugs please see this thread for info. I believe it's the thread referenced by @mossrider.

Thankfully someone around here can remember specifics for me. This is what I was referring to. I thought it might be helpful to show/see them side by side. What was the question?

😃

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4 minutes ago, mossrider said:

Thankfully someone around here can remember specifics for me. This is what I was referring to. I thought it might be helpful to show/see them side by side. What was the question?

😃

I got you fam! 👍 😁

DewMan
 
Just shut up and ride.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 12/30/2018 at 10:29 AM, bugeyes said:

Changed my plugs and air filter today and it took me 6 hours, what a bear of a job just to change the plugs!

Bike has done about  10000 km and I'm doing a larger service myself over the winter downtime.

Old plugs looked mint btw, no need to change them but of cause I did it anyway after dismounting everything.

Used the tips in this tread and the Haynes manual, thanks to those who contributed.

check out my post on this thread April 7, 2018. It will help a ton with getting the plugs out

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35 minutes ago, c3tkeyo said:

check out my post on this thread April 7, 2018. It will help a ton with getting the plugs out

You mean this one? 😀

 

 

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DewMan
 
Just shut up and ride.

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