DIY: FZ-07 Spark Plugs

[booboobusfz07]

My mistake. I bought a 9/16ths http://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/gear-wrench-9-16-x-6-magnetic-swivel-spark-plug-socket-3938d/9010410-P
 
Was at work going off memory.

[dentalprodigy]

My mistake. I bought a 9/16ths http://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/gear-wrench-9-16-x-6-magnetic-swivel-spark-plug-socket-3938d/9010410-P 
Was at work going off memory.

Ahhh gotcha. I'll return it when it arrives from Amazon.
 
Thanks to everyone for the tips. Was finally able to redeem myself. I bought a metric deep well socket from pepboys which was thin walled vs the harbor freight ones I previously bought.
 
Pictures...
https://goo.gl/photos/fKG6pFZ7FdL88iHq8

[norcal616]

Welcome to the wonderful world of tools...you need 2-3 of each tool of various brands to be successful ?

[rhb]

Welcome to the wonderful world of tools...you need 2-3 of each tool of various brands to be successful ?

Yes the right tool for the job, in triplicate, but there is nothing wrong with having a proper set of "metric" crescent wrenches for special occasions, or my favorite, a variety of vise grips and channel locks. necessity is indeed the mother of invention.
 

[noodles]

Ok... i guess the harbor freight ones are junk.. off to home depot i go now and i'll get some quality ones.

Your experience surprises me. I got the old plugs out with a minimum of effort using the Harbor Freight deep well 1/4" drive metric set. The 14 mm socket fit perfectly on the new spark plugs and the ones removed from the bike. Just be gentle so as not to harm the tip or the porcelain.

[AlbatrossCafe]

Anyone have trouble getting the 14mm deep socket to grab the plugs?
 
I did this service at 8k already (somehow, I don't remember how) and I am trying to do it again at 16k.
I was able to get the right-side plug out, but only with pushing pretty hard on the ratchet and unscrewing simultaneously. I can't get the left-side out. I also can't get the right-side new one back in.
 
I feel like my 14mm socket is too thick to fit all the way in the well after it has gone around the spark plug or something (weird, because like I said I did this before with the same equipment). Anyone else have this problem?
 
EDIT: I'm gonna go pick up something similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/ABN-12-point-Spark-Socket-Drive/dp/B01BUI5YEW
 
"Thin wall spark plug socket". I'll check the auto part store tmr. I hope it solves my problem.
 
UPDATE: Thin wall spark plug socket makes this 100x easier. I highly recommend. I also don't torque the things back on cus my torque wrench doesn't fit easily. It is a very  low torque and I have worked with auto/torque enough that I can guesstimate well enough. No problems so far.
 

[fz07nc]

Just used this DIY.  Thanks for the walkthrough!
 
A couple notes from my job today,
 
1. If you are going to move the fuel tank [which is highly recommended to allow for more space and greater vision to the working area], try to schedule your spark plug replacement when you have <1 gallon left.  I had a full tank and when I removed the two small breather hoses from the side and pivoted the tank, some fuel started to leak out of said breather holes.  Remember as well that each gallon of gas weighs about 6.3 lbs so the less you have in the tank, the easier it will be to work with.  
 
2. I had to use silicone lubricant and wiggling to get the spark plug caps loose and off.  At first, you will feel like you need to be Arnold to remove these caps.  Fear not... warm temps, lubricant, wiggling, and persistence will lead you to the promised land.  Oh, and you'll know you're close when you hear a small poof [that's the first part of the seal coming loose].
 
3. I used a 3/8" drive 14 mm deep socket [from Advanced Auto].  This was thin enough to snake down into the hole and remove the plugs.  For tightening, I used this socket in combination with a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter since my torque wrench is 1/2" drive.
 
Best of luck everyone!

[fzar]

I went to 2 local dealerships this weekend looking for spark-plugs, the first tried to give me an alternative to get me by, I said no thanks I'm not in trouble I'm trying to source the plugs locally as opposed to buying on-line within a reasonable price point. The second dealership said he had plugs for an FZ-07 (NGK LMAR7A-9) for a 2016 model. I had specifically told him I needed (NGK LMAR8A-9) for a 2015 FZ-07, which is what is listed in the owners manual, the guy told me that they would be fine, thats whats listed for 2016 and above and that the motor is the same for the 2015. I walked away and thanked him for his time. I'm still wondering if they would have actually worked. Anybody know the answer to this? I personally want to stick to the book on this aspect but it would be interesting to know if anyone has tried a different than stated replacement spark-plug.

[faffi]

Spark plugs for road bikes are not that critical. The plugs for the 2016 would have worked just fine, they are just a little colder running.

 

You can order the model you want here https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9882

[markstertt]

55 minutes ago, faffi said:

Spark plugs for road bikes are not that critical. The plugs for the 2016 would have worked just fine, they are just a little colder running.

 

You can order the model you want here https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9882

Isn't a -7 hotter than a -8? only one step I know but I haven't seen any reason on mine to go hotter.

[markstertt]

3 hours ago, fzar said:

I went to 2 local dealerships this weekend looking for spark-plugs, the first tried to give me an alternative to get me by, I said no thanks I'm not in trouble I'm trying to source the plugs locally as opposed to buying on-line within a reasonable price point. The second dealership said he had plugs for an FZ-07 (NGK LMAR7A-9) for a 2016 model. I had specifically told him I needed (NGK LMAR8A-9) for a 2015 FZ-07, which is what is listed in the owners manual, the guy told me that they would be fine, thats whats listed for 2016 and above and that the motor is the same for the 2015. I walked away and thanked him for his time. I'm still wondering if they would have actually worked. Anybody know the answer to this? I personally want to stick to the book on this aspect but it would be interesting to know if anyone has tried a different than stated replacement spark-plug.

Yes, I installed NGK LMAR8AI-8 iridium plugs and did a post on it as it's not exactly plug and play, a slight mod to cap end of spark plug is needed. I researched for any other mfgs. for an equivalent plug but couldn't find any at the time. The iridiums are spec'd for the BMW 6 cyl. touring bike and a pack of 4 from Germany were less per plug than locally sourced stock plugs even with shipping (I can't remember if shipping was free). Hope this helps.

Edited January 28, 2018 by markstertt
wrong dash #

[fzar]

2 hours ago, faffi said:

Spark plugs for road bikes are not that critical. The plugs for the 2016 would have worked just fine, they are just a little colder running.

 

You can order the model you want here https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9882

What do you mean by 'Colder running', I,m not sure what you mean.

 

[faffi]

1 hour ago, markstertt said:

Isn't a -7 hotter than a -8? only one step I know but I haven't seen any reason on mine to go hotter.

Yes, my bad - I mixed 2015 and 2016 designation and thought they went colder for 2016. That they went hotter suggest the original heat range could cause some fouling in light riding. 

[fzar]

1 hour ago, markstertt said:

Yes, I installed NGK LMAR8AI-8 iridium plugs and did a post on it as it's not exactly plug and play, a slight mod to cap end of spark plug is needed. I researched for any other mfgs. for an equivalent plug but couldn't find any at the time. The iridiums are spec'd for the BMW 6 cyl. touring bike and a pack of 4 from Germany were less per plug than locally sourced stock plugs even with shipping (I can't remember if shipping was free). Hope this helps.

HOw are they working out for ya? Any noticeable difference?

[faffi]

4 minutes ago, fzar said:

What do you mean by 'Colder running', I,m not sure what you mean.

 

The 7 and 8 in the two part numbers are indicating the heat range. Lower number means a hotter running spark plug, and vice verse. So since I mixed up '15 and '16, Yamaha went for a hotter spark plug that will resist fouling, which is what you want. But you do not want it to run so hot that there is a risk of pre-ignition.

[faffi]

NGK has a lot of good information if you go around on their site. This is a good place to start http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/tech-talk/spark-plug-basics

[fzar]

Thanks for the information. I'll research it a little more its one of those things thats in my head now and I won't be happen until I know more about it as its interesting how important spark-plugs are, especially the pre-ignition. PING PING- BANG

[mjh937]

I just looked at the owners manual for the 2015, 2016 and 2016 model (download from the Yamaha website) and they all specify the same plug, LMAR8A-9.

[r1limited]

What are plugs?

[mjh937]

52 minutes ago, r1limited said:

What are plugs?

I put them in my ears to keep the noise down.  The width and thread is perfect, but perhaps the ones that burn cooler would be more comfortable. 😝

[r1limited]

5 minutes ago, mjh937 said:

I put them in my ears to keep the noise down.  The width and thread is perfect, but perhaps the ones that burn cooler would be more comfortable. 😝

So putting a cork in it is not the same

 

[markstertt]

3 hours ago, fzar said:

HOw are they working out for ya? Any noticeable difference?

Seemed to start quicker and idle a wee bit better...maybe... but since that was never a problem it could be in my head. I wanted the longevity of the iridiums mostly and will take any little advantages imagined or otherwise...and since it's a bit of pain to change them then give me the iridiums every time. No price penalty so why not? Oh, except for the slight mod required that is.

[steveng42]

Hi all. I have just completed that spark plug check. I decided to gap them and put them back in even though it was the 10,000km/6,000mil check. I have always serviced my own bikes but this is the first water cooled one I have had and it is a lot different. I had seen the LS you tube clip and thou it was useful there were some omissions which could and did trip up a newbie. There are some other things which I feel might help others starting out.

The phrase "remove all the plastics" sounds fine until you realize there are four different types of fastening holding the side covers on. On each side there are:

1, Chromed screws about five from memory.

2. Two black plastic clips push in center to undo. These are hidden away.

3. Two points where plastic pins fit into rubber grommets. On undoing these the grommet come away with the plastic cover. But the grommets must be transferred back into their holes for the plastic cover to be reassembled.

4. Two plastic clips on the top center of the tank.

I got stumped by the main fuel feed. It is shown in the clip with its red slide but no explanation as to how you get it off the tank fitting. The local Yamaha dealer told me the answer. The under side of the tank has a white plastic fitting that has a tube that fits into right angle fitting with the red slide. The trick to getting these two fittings apart is that with the red slide pulled it exposes buttons top and bottom of the black fitting that when pressed toward each other, this allows the fitting to be pulled off the white tube of the tank. The fittings do not let fuel out.

I thought I was O.K. with my 1/2" drive deep 14mm socket and extension. When rotating it the right noises ware made but the plug never came loose. Why? A 1/2" drive socket has too large a diameter to let the socket reach and engage with the plug. A 5/8" socket and extension are needed as shown in the clip.

I see some one gave up on getting the plug caps out. What is not said is that there is a button on the wiring plug to the cap, that must be pressed to disconnect the wiring. It is only when you have done this that the plug caps can be rotated. While it would seem that they can be puled out directly, they are to some extent engages with the thread on the top of the spark plugs. Rotating them anticlockwise helps them to start coming out and the reverse direction for the final assembly. Undoing that cable clip on the left side of the bike helps with the extraction on that side. The plug caps do not come out the top easily, it is better to take them out through the space between the top of the engine and the frame on the right side.

Sorry for the length. Get in and give it a go The bike is not yours unless you show it some love.

Steveng42

          

[faffi]

Reading this makes me miss my old Z400 twin. Check spark plugs: Pull of cap, fit spark plug tool over spark plug, undo said plug, inspect/replace as needed, fit spark plug, fit cap, done. 

[fzar]

3 hours ago, steveng42 said:

A 1/2" drive socket has too large a diameter to let the socket reach and engage with the plug. A 5/8" socket and extension are needed as shown in the clip.

@steveng42 Can you explain this to me! 5/8 socket would be bigger than 1/2 inch in my understanding. Maybe I'm missing something, I'm just trying to cover all aspects before I give it a try.

Edited February 16, 2018 by fzar