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DIY: FZ-07 Spark Plugs


hobbs

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AlbatrossCafe
Ok cool, thanks.  
I'll be attempting this just by taking the right plastic off. I've already have my hand in there and it seems like there's enough room, unless I can't get these caps off, obviously. 
I was thinking about this. You can take the spark plug connector/caps off easy, but the actual plug caps are pretty long. Idk how you squeak them out of there without going through the area where the tank would be. 
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Guest ChicagoAJ
Ok cool, thanks.  
I'll be attempting this just by taking the right plastic off. I've already have my hand in there and it seems like there's enough room, unless I can't get these caps off, obviously. 
I was thinking about this. You can take the spark plug connector/caps off easy, but the actual plug caps are pretty long. Idk how you squeak them out of there without going through the area where the tank would be.
There's a pretty good bit of space in there. @yamahaha said he did it using that method so I'm going to give it a try. Worst comes to worst I'll remove the tank. But I'm going to try not to. I don't have huge hands, so I'm hoping I'll be able to get it done.  
Might be able to lift the tank just enough for extra clearance using a block of wood or something similar. 
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Guest ChicagoAJ
Removing and reinserting plugs into a hot motor is perfectly fine, as long as proper torque spec is used Tighten to initial, uninstall, and tighten to final
-Spark plug(initial)
19 Nm (1.9 m·kgf, 14.1 ft·lbf)
-Spark plug(final)
13 Nm (1.3 m·kgf, 9.4 ft·lbf)
Can someone explain this to me? What's the significance to tightening them just to loosen them and tighten them again to less torque? Just to make sure they're seated or something? But uninstall does that just mean to loosen them a bit before torquing to final?
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As Hobbs above pointed out, you guys need to keep in mind that what you are pulling out is not just a spark plug cap, but the spark coils. Unlike the old days when there was a spark coil bolted somewhere on the frame with a heavy secondary wire going to the plug, these are called "coil-over-plug". The spark coil (sometimes also called a "pencil coil") connects directly to the top of the plug. https://www.ngk.de/en/technology-in-detail/ignition-coils/design-of-an-ignition-coil/design-of-a-pencil-coil-single-spark-coil-coil-on-plug/
 
So be careful while pulling and resist the temptation of prying on them. Those bits are probably not so cheap. If the insulation is cracked, they will leak high voltage to ground and the bike won't run well at all.
 
 

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Guest ChicagoAJ
As Hobbs above pointed out, you guys need to keep in mind that what you are pulling out is not just a spark plug cap, but the spark coils. Unlike the old days when there was a spark coil bolted somewhere on the frame with a heavy secondary wire going to the plug, these are called "coil-over-plug". The spark coil (sometimes also called a "pencil coil") connects directly to the top of the plug. https://www.ngk.de/en/technology-in-detail/ignition-coils/design-of-an-ignition-coil/design-of-a-pencil-coil-single-spark-coil-coil-on-plug/ 
So be careful while pulling and resist the temptation of prying on them. Those bits are probably not so cheap. If the insulation is cracked, they will leak high voltage to ground and the bike won't run well at all.
 

Doesn't seem like there's much option but to wiggle them back and forth until they pop off their seat on the plug. Not too expensive on PartsFish.com.  
 
Ignition Coil Assembly
 
1WS-82310-00-00
 
$47.74
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A little spritz with silicone spray around the rubber seal should help. Then a coat of dielectric grease on those mating surfaces before they get pushed back in will help a loathe next time.
 
Yep, wiggle and twist a bit - just don't use a screw driver to pry.

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Guest ChicagoAJ
A little spritz with silicone spray around the rubber seal should help. Then a coat of dielectric grease on those mating surfaces before they get pushed back in will help a loathe next time.  
Yep, wiggle and twist a bit - just don't use a screw driver to pry.
I don't think I'd have the luxury of fitting my hand and a screwdriver in the space if I try to do everything by only removing the right plastic. We'll find out! 
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i tend to ignore pain sometimes and can jam my hands into small spaces - some day i'll pay for that

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Guest ChicagoAJ

After playing around with the bike this morning, I was able to get my hand in and unplug both connections on the spark plugs and wiggle the right side boot/coilover pack/whatever you want to call it free, and this was without taking any body panels off. The bike was cold and I really didn't want to do much more than that so I put everything back together and went for a 2 hour ride before work. 
 
 
Lost some skin on a few of my fingers from the threads of whatever is connected above them because the fit is pretty tight, but I think it will be a decently easy job just by removing the right side plastic. Will be interesting when I do it, that's for sure.
 
Still a bit confused on the initial and final values of the plug torque though. When I do replace am I just to tighten it to 19 Nm (1.9 m·kgf, 14.1 ft·lbf), back it off a bit and retighten to 13 Nm (1.3 m·kgf, 9.4 ft·lbf)?
 

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Service manual just shows a final torque of 9.4 ft-lbs. Can find that specification in a few places, but no mention of preloading and the backing off - something that's frequently done with bearings to set them 1st.
 
Is that extra step in the owners manual?
 
 

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Removing and reinserting plugs into a hot motor is perfectly fine, as long as proper torque spec is used Tighten to initial, uninstall, and tighten to final
-Spark plug(initial)
19 Nm (1.9 m·kgf, 14.1 ft·lbf)
-Spark plug(final)
13 Nm (1.3 m·kgf, 9.4 ft·lbf)
Can someone explain this to me? What's the significance to tightening them just to loosen them and tighten them again to less torque? Just to make sure they're seated or something? But uninstall does that just mean to loosen them a bit before torquing to final?
 
 
 
Most spark plugs have a crush washer or sleeve on them. Tightening them to the the higher end will pre-crush the washer slightly, making a better seal for the final torquing.
 
 

ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by.
 

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Why bother using a crush washer in the 1st place if yer gonna take all of the "crush" out of it before torquing? Most people replace crush washers after they've been flattened out. Never seen any owner's or service manual (the FZs included) describing this. That also goes for crankcase drain plugs, brake lines, front fork bottom bolts etc. - anything with a washer that gets crushed.
didn't someone pull threads out of their pan over tightening the drain bolt?
 
it's your motorcycle, but
 
sorry, just doesn't make sense to me and sounds like a way to risk damaging threads in the head.
 
 
 
 

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It applies to any motor that uses a crush washer type spark plug. If you don't loosen them and then tighten a second time, chances are that they will loosen by themselves over time.
 
I often see that in cars, you go to check the plugs and they are all loose.
 
When doing the steps above (tightening, loosening then tightening them again) I don't have this problem anymore.
 
And don't be afraid to damage the threads please, what do you want to damage with tightening a plug that is supposed to go in there? If you don't throw foreign particles in there or crossthread the plug, you won't have any problems...

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Why bother using a crush washer in the 1st place if yer gonna take all of the "crush" out of it before torquing? Most people replace crush washers after they've been flattened out. Never seen any owner's or service manual (the FZs included) describing this. That also goes for crankcase drain plugs, brake lines, front fork bottom bolts etc. - anything with a washer that gets crushed. didn't someone pull threads out of their pan over tightening the drain bolt?
 
it's your motorcycle, but
 
sorry, just doesn't make sense to me and sounds like a way to risk damaging threads in the head.
 
 
 

You dont take all the 'crush' out of it beforehand
Just start the crushing
somewhere around .02-3"
this allows the final torque to truly crush the gasket

ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by.
 

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Been changing plugs in cars and bikes, from big ol V8s to singles, since before I was old enough to drive (5 decades or so) . Never once had a plug come loose.
 
Tell ya what, find me a a link to a service manual somewhere that recommends this. Until then, I'll just follow basic torque specs.
 

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bmwpowere36m3
Been changing plugs in cars and bikes, from big ol V8s to singles, since before I was old enough to drive (5 decades or so) . Never once had a plug come loose.  
Tell ya what, find me a a link to a service manual somewhere that recommends this. Until then, I'll just follow basic torque specs.

+1 Agree 
New plugs, I torque to manufacturers spec ONCE or follow the spark plug manufacturer guidelines.  Depending on whether its a tapered seat or crush washer, NGK (for example) recommends different angles of tightening after the plug seats (finger tight).
 
I've been known to "reuse" plugs on occasion… for example: flooded engine, compression check, inspection and/or re-gap.  I re-torque/tighten the same as if they were new.  However those with crush washers, I'm a little more careful the second time around if I don't have a torque spec.  So I guess that's the same as the others are alluding to.  However I don't torque them less the second, time around.  At the same point, why do it twice… unless you;re pulling them for some reason.
 
Obviously this only applies to plugs with crush washers… as tapered seat ones have nothing to "crush".
 
In the end, it probably doesn't really matter, I've reused copper/aluminum crush washers on occasion as well (happen to be out on a Sunday if you know what I mean).  Sometimes I'll anneal copper ones, if I'm being really anal.  However some judgement needs to be used.
 
So it depends… but as far a NEW plugs, they only "need" to be torqued/tightened ONCE to the correct spec.
 
 
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  • 2 months later...
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Just two quick questions as I'm about to do this myself as part of my 8K service...
 
Did the new spark plugs have the proper gap out of the box?
 
Does anyone use a light coat of anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs?
 
- Paulie
 
 

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Yes and yes, at least mine were and I use an anti-seize. I always check the gap any way. I tend to not put any anti-seize on the last couple of threads near the firing end, don't want to have any run down on the insulator.

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Plugs should always be checked unless they are multi pronged electrodes
 
Anti-sieze is smart but the service manual says no
 
 

ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by.
 

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I didn't use any antiseize... had a pretty easy time getting the old set out. Also did not bother checking the gap either since I didn't have a gauge on hand. No detrimental effects noted.

Everything went braap.

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Plugs should always be checked unless they are multi pronged electrodes 
Anti-sieze is smart but the service manual says no
 

Hmmm, not sure I understand this comment since I've spent over 30 yrs. gapping multi electrode spark plugs, 2 and 3 prong so if you don't gap them how do you account for electrode erosion?
 
If you don't now use spark plug anti-seize, once you pull the threads out of an aluminum head, you will.  A small bottle of spark plug anti-seize used sparingly, will last you a life time. Cheap insurance. 
 
 
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Plugs should always be checked unless they are multi pronged electrodes 
Anti-sieze is smart but the service manual says no
 

Hmmm, not sure I understand this comment since I've spent over 30 yrs. gapping multi electrode spark plugs, 2 and 3 prong so if you don't gap them how do you account for electrode erosion? 
If you don't now use spark plug anti-seize, once you pull the threads out of an aluminum head, you will.  A small bottle of spark plug anti-seize used sparingly, will last you a life time. Cheap insurance. 
 

 
I was referring to NGK's line of quad fire platinum plugs or e³'s diamond fire plugs
technically shouldnt be gapped
all other plugs from.what ive seen should be gapped before install.
 

ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by.
 

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