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hobbs

DIY: FZ-07 Spark Plugs

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hobbs
Finally got my plugs in and finished the job yesterday. Here's how it went.
 
Required:
14 mm deepwell socket
12 mm socket
Ratchet & 2 extensions.
Torque wrench
4 & 5 mm allen wrench
2x NGK LMAR8A-9 plugs
Maybe:
Tubing, duct tape, magnet grabber, probably some beer, music.
 
 
Start by removing the plastics, plastic tank ring and tank. It's covered elsewhere, but here's a basic rundown.
 
Seat off, then plastics, then we can disconnect the tank.
20150515_184744.jpg
 
To move the tank, you have to undo the plug on the bottom and front of the tank, and the breather hoses as well.
20150515_191025.jpg
 
20150515_191046.jpg
 
20150515_191228.jpg
 
Cover the bike and reposition the tank.
20150515_215925.jpg
 
 
Now locate the spark plug coil-over caps, disconnect them. It is probably wise not to mix the two up.
 
20150518_145956.jpg
 
 
After you disconnect them, you need to remove the plug caps. They are about 5" long, and are not threaded, but look like it. A solid pull will release it, do not pry. It's a tighter fit on the clutch side, but you can fish it out.
20150515_220007.jpg
 
Now you need to remove the plugs. You see why two extensions are necessary. Note: don't remove the plugs with your torque wrench. Once removed you'll have to figure out to fish the plug out. I used duct tape on the end of some tubing.
 
20150517_114138.jpg
20150517_114201.jpg
 
Old plug out, new plug in. I used tubing to get the plug started by hand. Then torque to 13 nm
20150518_150349.jpg
20150517_110951.jpg
 
From here you just finagle the plug caps back in. Press down firmly, then tighten the threaded portion. It took a while to engage the threads, so be patient.
 
Plug the caps back up, reposition your tank and work backwards from teardown to get everything back into place.
 
It took me a few hours, but a lot of that was time spent figuring how the heck to get the plugs in and out. Overall it's a tight squeeze, but not very complicated job. Should only take an hour or so next go around.
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targaflorio
Congrats! Where did you source your plugs? The original gap is correct? .8-.9 mm?

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hobbs
Congrats! Where did you source your plugs? The original gap is correct? .8-.9 mm?
 
 
Sorry, I've been out at sea the last week.
 
Plugs were a pain in the arse to get. Nobody had, or have heard of them and most of the ones that did had a 10 plug limit. Managed to find a shop that bought em for me. Took about 9 days to get.
 
The shop told my lady when she picked the plugs up that they didn't realize it was a box of 10. I'm supposed to call back and they said they would cut me a deal on the rest.
 
I'll check it out on Monday. I'd sell a few sets at cost to forum members. Probably keep another 2 sets for myself.

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rick
Nice write-up.
 
I've been screwing in spark plugs since I was a kid in the late-60s. Never seen a plug with its threaded portion almost half the length of the plug! That's wild

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pantheraleo
I just completed my Spark Plug replacement as part of my 8k service yesterday.  It took me about three+ hours (but I was doing the air filter, too)  I went pretty slow, and recorded the portions of it where i was stymied for my YouTube channel since I didn't see any videos about it.
 
I made sure I referenced this thread because it is an excellent overall guide, and my video is only intended to supplement this.  One thing that threw me off was the reference to the plug caps being threaded, so I spent about 15 minutes trying to unscrew them....duh.  Luckily the owner's manual got me straight.
 
One thing is for sure....I am better on the bike than off of it when it comes to videography...but here is the link nonetheless.
 

 
 
 
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Beemer
Thanks for the great tutorial! Question: do plugs go bad faster during the break in period, anyone know the answer, definitively? Is that why the 8k plug change because standard plugs are usually good for 10-20k miles. What bike manufacturer's say and what plug manufacturer's say are sometimes worlds apart. It can be confusing to some. I usually go along with the plug manufacturer and keep an eye/ear out for any changes in starting, acceleration, cruising and drop in gas mileage. Knock on wood so far.

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bmwpowere36m3
Thanks for the great tutorial! Question: do plugs go bad faster during the break in period, anyone know the answer, definitively? Is that why the 8k plug change because standard plugs are usually good for 10-20k miles. What bike manufacturer's say and what plug manufacturer's say are sometimes worlds apart. It can be confusing to some. I usually go along with the plug manufacturer and keep an eye/ear out for any changes in starting, acceleration, cruising and drop in gas mileage. Knock on wood so far.
 
 
I doubt it... on my bikes with "cheap" copper NGK plugs i replace them 1-2 yrs. They also have a ~7k mile replacement interval. FZ-07 interval is 12k miles per the MT-07 service manual.

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Beemer
Thanks for the great tutorial! Question: do plugs go bad faster during the break in period, anyone know the answer, definitively? Is that why the 8k plug change because standard plugs are usually good for 10-20k miles. What bike manufacturer's say and what plug manufacturer's say are sometimes worlds apart. It can be confusing to some. I usually go along with the plug manufacturer and keep an eye/ear out for any changes in starting, acceleration, cruising and drop in gas mileage. Knock on wood so far.
I doubt it... on my bikes with "cheap" copper NGK plugs i replace them 1-2 yrs. They also have a ~7k mile replacement interval. FZ-07 interval is 12k miles per the MT-07 service manual.
Thanks for that, I wasn't sure but had my doubts as well and I didn't know what the actual plug interval was until now. It appeared that  pantheraleo was just doing his early since he had the seat off for an air filter change.

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thomascrown
FZ07 service manual has plug changes at 8k miles apart. When I changed the plugs at 12k, they were beyond shot. 8k isn't conservative...I tried to stretch it to 12k, and it manifested in crappy performance, and misfires.
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pantheraleo
FZ07 service manual has plug changes at 8k miles apart. When I changed the plugs at 12k, they were beyond shot. 8k isn't conservative...I tried to stretch it to 12k, and it manifested in crappy performance, and misfires.
Mine were ready to be switched at 8k. Sure, its a bit of a pain, but it really should be done at the specified interval.

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enels57
I found the plug caps impossible to remove given the amount of room available even with the tank removed and in spite of the great guidance given by this write-up, the video link, and the owners manual. Plug caps 1 : Me 0
 
 

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rick
BTW, those "caps" are really the spark coils. It's called a "coil over plug" and there are no old-world high voltage plug wires. Pretty much std stuff these days for cars and bikes. Probably not cheap - so don't go prying on them
 
Try some silicone spray at the base of the coils where they press into the valve cover - and then wiggle to get the lube down in.
 
You can also use a thin coat of dielectric grease on the seals of the coils before putting them back in - that'll make life far easier the next go 'round.
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hobbs
I just completed my Spark Plug replacement as part of my 8k service yesterday.  It took me about three+ hours (but I was doing the air filter, too)  I went pretty slow, and recorded the portions of it where i was stymied for my YouTube channel since I didn't see any videos about it. 
I made sure I referenced this thread because it is an excellent overall guide, and my video is only intended to supplement this.  One thing that threw me off was the reference to the plug caps being threaded, so I spent about 15 minutes trying to unscrew them....duh.  Luckily the owner's manual got me straight.
 
One thing is for sure....I am better on the bike than off of it when it comes to videography...but here is the link nonetheless.
 

 
 

 
 
Just noticed I did say they were threaded. Oops! They aren't threaded, just a pain in the ass to get off. Probably all the better I didn't go yanking away like a black market dentist.
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rick
"black market dentist", lol
 
the coils might even come out easier if the motor is warm. Though I never like removing/reinserting plugs from/into a hot motor.

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cndnmax
With my car I use two ziptie loops to grab the sides of the coil pack and pull them out easier. I haven't replaced them on the Fz but it might work for them too.
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sorkyah
Removing and reinserting plugs into a hot motor is perfectly fine, as long as proper torque spec is used
Tighten to initial, uninstall, and tighten to final
-Spark plug(initial)
19 Nm (1.9 m·kgf, 14.1 ft·lbf)
-Spark plug(final)
13 Nm (1.3 m·kgf, 9.4 ft·lbf)
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jake
So this got me motivated to do mine. It took me at least 2 hours, it was harder than I hoped lol. I put it back together so I could run it and the Check engine light came on and the bike shut down .. I missed a plug glad I didn't have all the plastic on the bugger.
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pantheraleo
 <snipped>  
Just noticed I did say they were threaded. Oops! They aren't threaded, just a pain in the ass to get off. Probably all the better I didn't go yanking away like a black market dentist.
No, they are not.  The caps (or whatever you wanna call 'em) even look kinda threaded once you get them off, too!  The owners manual had outstanding instructions for removal of them and got me home.   
Hard to believe, my 16k service is here, so I will be back at it again this month!

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AlbatrossCafe
I found the plug caps impossible to remove given the amount of room available even with the tank removed and in spite of the great guidance given by this write-up, the video link, and the owners manual. Plug caps 1 : Me 0 

lol I'm in the same spot right now. I have big hands and they are gettin ripped to shreds on the bottom of some of the bolts under there.. I'm startin to get mad 
Edit: Just got the first one out. I found twisting back & forth as recommended by the owners manual didn't work, as the "back" would pull it out and the "forth" would undo my progress. I tried only turning it one way as I pulled and it came out in 30 seconds. And now same experience with the second one.
 
The hardest thing for me was trying to pull the caps out of their slots or stick extensions in there (esp on clutch side) because there is too much electrical in the way to go in straight. Also, I found that if you have a magnet stick, you can use that to easily grab the unscrewed old spark plugs.
 
Here are some pics of my old vs. new plugs. I did my change at 7403 miles because I had to do my oil & some rewiring anyway so I figured I might as well. Even at only 7403 they were pretty burnt up:
 
http://i.imgur.com/KNwO3Vn.jpg http://i.imgur.com/xx2JSy3.jpg http://i.imgur.com/pmpZVGD.jpg
 
Took me about 2.5h, but like others have said, when I do it again it will maybe take me an hour. Pretty easy process once you know what to do.
 
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yamahaha
Just did mine at 14700 kms. Did not notice any difference in performance or otherwise.
 
The job is a little awkward but can be done fairly easy with only the removal of the right side panel. Then again, those with extra large hands may find it more challenging. My hands got chewed up a bit.
3/8 drive with short extension worked a charm. Used a chunk of 3/8 hose pushed over the plugs to unscrew and remove. Also handy to start the new plugs.
Takes a little jiggling to get the coils/caps in and out but there is room if you hold your mouth right. Like others have mentioned, add a little dielectric silicone or grease to the rubber boot for easier install and removal next time.
 
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AlbatrossCafe
Then again, those with extra large hands may find it more challenging. My hands got chewed up a bit. 

My right hand afterward: 
http://i.imgur.com/t9fAgYK.jpg
 
Looks like a decaying zombie hand. Probably should have worn gloves... :D
 
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markstertt
The bare screws sticking down from plate/bracket that holds ecu are not used on our -07 and can be cut off to eliminate hand damage. I chose not to cut them off installed so I removed the assy. (3 attach points) and cut them off with bracket held in vise. It was also much easier to remove & install the plugs with this assy. removed. You'll thank yourself the next time you reach under there.
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Guest ChicagoAJ
So are the boots threaded or are they not? Lol
 
Once I unplug the connections at the top of the boot, will they just pull out exposing the plugs? I'm only asking because the plugs look like they have a small threaded portion at the top of them..

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hobbs
So are the boots threaded or are they not? Lol 
Once I unplug the connections at the top of the boot, will they just pull out exposing the plugs? I'm only asking because the plugs look like they have a small threaded portion at the top of them..
 
 
The coil-over plug caps you're referencing are not threaded, although they do appear as such.
 
They are however very snug, so it helps to rotate them a little bit and wiggle the cap as you pull it out.
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Guest ChicagoAJ
So are the boots threaded or are they not? Lol 
Once I unplug the connections at the top of the boot, will they just pull out exposing the plugs? I'm only asking because the plugs look like they have a small threaded portion at the top of them..
The coil-over plug caps you're referencing are not threaded, although they do appear as such.
 
They are however very snug, so it helps to rotate them a little bit and wiggle the cap as you pull it out.
Ok cool, thanks.  
I'll be attempting this just by taking the right plastic off. I've already have my hand in there and it seems like there's enough room, unless I can't get these caps off, obviously. 

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