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thestache

Stripped Screw Hole...repair ideas?

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thestache
Putting on the Seat Concepts seat, realized one of the screw holes is stripped out, what's the best way to repair this? I have seen Loctite, a guy use some copper wire, and Tap and Die...anyone else have any experience with these?

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grahamfz07
you could see if one of these style automotive clips would work? most auto stores sell them in small packs
 
clip

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thestache
you could see if one of these style automotive clips would work? most auto stores sell them in small packs 
clip
Good idea, would require me to take some things off, and likely need a longer bolt to see if I could get one of the under the actual hole, but, it beats the alternative...hey my seat came off

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snowdriftless
+1 The same things are used on the radiator side panel mounting holes

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thestache
Yeah, it's just hard to get into the area where it would fit, because the area where a clip, or fastener would go seems to be a blind spot, unless you take off part of the plastics on the back of the bike....hhhmmmmmm

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hobbs
Yeah, it's just hard to get into the area where it would fit, because the area where a clip, or fastener would go seems to be a blind spot, unless you take off part of the plastics on the back of the bike....hhhmmmmmm
 
 
I had the entire rear of the bike apart and it wasn't nearly as daunting as it seemed. Full teardown, including the tail light and fender/licence plate thing took maybe 30 minutes. If you run into issues, just ask for help here.
 
Just take care with the black plastic bits, they're easy to scratch. Mine are taking a beating from the road though anyway.

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grahamfz07
you could try re-taping the threads, and look for alternatives if that doesn't pan out

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bmwpowere36m3
Depends on how bad... Are the threads totally gone or just some damage or cross-threading?
 
If their totally gone you can repair with heli-coils or time-serts. You can also drill out to the next size up, re-tap and buy corresponding larger bolts.

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rick
Well, the proper way to fix it would be to drill the hole bigger, and then tap the hole to take an insert like http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-6-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B0002KKPXK Can't remeber if those threads are 5 or 6mm, so you'd have to check.
 
Can a finger be reached under that suction of the subframe with the seat removed such that a nut can be held in place? You could drill the hole clean of threads and then epoxy a nut below the frame. Put a couple dabs of JBWeld on the nut w/o the seat there, and then use the bolt (maybe some vaseline or antiseize on the threads) to pull and hold the nut into place. Leave it sit some hours or overnight - problem solved
 
You guys need to invest in a set of T handled ball end hex keys so this sorta thing doesn't happen. The T handle gives heft to the wrench so that it can be spun will removing bolts. The ball end allows the wrench to be at an angle to the bolt head http://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-15389-Metric-Handle-stand/dp/B002NZQSD8/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1431623450&sr=1-11&keywords=t+handle+ball+end+allen+wrench+set
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rick
oops, 2 votes for inserts
 
If it's only the top portion of the threads that are buggered, you could run a tap back thru, but the tap would be best started from below where the threads will match up to the tap properly. The tap will just follow the buggered threads at the top and you'll wind up with no threads

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thestache
Well, the proper way to fix it would be to drill the hole bigger, and then tap the hole to take an insert like http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-6-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B0002KKPXK Can't remeber if those threads are 5 or 6mm, so you'd have to check.  
Can a finger be reached under that suction of the subframe with the seat removed such that a nut can be held in place? You could drill the hole clean of threads and then epoxy a nut below the frame. Put a couple dabs of JBWeld on the nut w/o the seat there, and then use the bolt (maybe some vaseline or antiseize on the threads) to pull and hold the nut into place. Leave it sit some hours or overnight - problem solved
 
You guys need to invest in a set of T handled ball end hex keys so this sorta thing doesn't happen. The T handle gives heft to the wrench so that it can be spun will removing bolts. The ball end allows the wrench to be at an angle to the bolt head http://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-15389-Metric-Handle-stand/dp/B002NZQSD8/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1431623450&sr=1-11&keywords=t+handle+ball+end+allen+wrench+set
Rick, good idea, but it was that way when I took the seat off, I just didn't realize it, I thought the bolt was loose

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rick
That bolt is not at an odd angle to the frame underneath. But it's sure at odds with the seat. With the ball end hex keys, it's far less likely to get cocked and then cross-threaded.
 
Seem to remember someone finding theirs cross threaded after a dealer did the battery cable recall. Fix one thing, break another - sheesh.
 
See if you can glue a nut underneath the frame. That''ll be your simplest fix. It won't show and be plenty strong.
 
 

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thestache
That bolt is not at an odd angle to the frame underneath. But it's sure at odds with the seat. With the ball end hex keys, it's far less likely to get cocked and then cross-threaded. 
Seem to remember someone finding theirs cross threaded after a dealer did the battery cable recall. Fix one thing, break another - sheesh.
 
See if you can glue a nut underneath the frame. That''ll be your simplest fix. It won't show and be plenty strong.
 

Thanks Rick, I am sure that is likely what happened to me, either the recall, or even the EJK install I had a person do for me

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rick
People who wrench for a living no better than to keep going after a fastener comes out easy but stops cold after one turn. Worse yet, handing it back knowing he messed it up. There's really no excuse for it, imo.
 
Fortunately, it's just a seat bolt - I've ridden with neither of them in place.
 
 

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bmwpowere36m3
After picking up my new bike from the dealer, who performed the battery cable recall... I found the seat bolts to be buggered up. They still hold fine, but they were definitely cross-threaded a bit. So I called them up and waiting to hear a response. In the mean-time, I looked up the parts to fix it:
[ul type=disc][*]Subframe Seat Bracket: 1WS-21131-00-00[*]Seat Bolts (2x): 90110-06172-00[/ul]
Total for parts shipped is ~$20 (ronayers.com)
Now to hear what the dealer says.  I'm hoping they get the parts and I'll replace them (do it along with fender eliminator).  I don't want them to replace it and/or make several trips there either (waste of time and gas).  $20 I can eat it, but its the principal of the matter.
 
 
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rick
20 bucks! That's it? Gotta hate the morns who like to break things, but love the price of parts for this thing.
 
Buying a kit to put inserts in those holes might be near that sorta of price. May as well just replace with new
 
Yeah, and the guy who buggered the holes should pay for those parts.

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thestache
20 bucks! That's it? Gotta hate the morns who like to break things, but love the price of parts for this thing. 
Buying a kit to put inserts in those holes might be near that sorta of price. May as well just replace with new
 
Yeah, and the guy who buggered the holes should pay for those parts.
That's good to know, only $20....heck, i will just replace them then

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ryan4130
Came across the same thing on my bike, came cross threaded from the dealer. I was pissed and rode in the next day and made them fix it. Unfortunately, their "fix" was to run a tap through the hole to clean the threads and gave me new bolts. -_- Glad to see it is only $20 for those parts, I was dreading it was going to be more.

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seabass
Sorry to necro the thread, but I ran into the same issue. Bought the bike from a previous owner and the bolts to hold down the seat are striped to shit. I wasn't able to find the replacement parts you guys were talking about. I googled the part # and checked the website and no luck. Anyone know where I can purchase the seat bracket and replacement bolts?

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Beemer
I have a sneaking suspicion the problem has been taken care of by now but this is for other people that encounter this same problem.
 
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=Tap+%26+Die
 
After repairing the first hole you'll get that god complex and want to repair that cavity in that molar. Well, maybe not that much confidence but you know what I mean. ;)
 
 
 

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avanti
If like many dealers I hope you aren't holding your breath waiting for that call-back! Especially since it is a dealer f**k-up, good luck with that!

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