thestache Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 Putting on the Seat Concepts seat, realized one of the screw holes is stripped out, what's the best way to repair this? I have seen Loctite, a guy use some copper wire, and Tap and Die...anyone else have any experience with these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member grahamfz07 Posted May 14, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted May 14, 2015 you could see if one of these style automotive clips would work? most auto stores sell them in small packs clip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thestache Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 you could see if one of these style automotive clips would work? most auto stores sell them in small packs clip Good idea, would require me to take some things off, and likely need a longer bolt to see if I could get one of the under the actual hole, but, it beats the alternative...hey my seat came off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member snowdriftless Posted May 14, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted May 14, 2015 +1 The same things are used on the radiator side panel mounting holes P1: Vice? I have no vice, I'm as pure as the driven snow! P2: Yeah but you've been drifting All the gear all the time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thestache Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 Yeah, it's just hard to get into the area where it would fit, because the area where a clip, or fastener would go seems to be a blind spot, unless you take off part of the plastics on the back of the bike....hhhmmmmmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member hobbs Posted May 14, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted May 14, 2015 Yeah, it's just hard to get into the area where it would fit, because the area where a clip, or fastener would go seems to be a blind spot, unless you take off part of the plastics on the back of the bike....hhhmmmmmm I had the entire rear of the bike apart and it wasn't nearly as daunting as it seemed. Full teardown, including the tail light and fender/licence plate thing took maybe 30 minutes. If you run into issues, just ask for help here. Just take care with the black plastic bits, they're easy to scratch. Mine are taking a beating from the road though anyway. Everything went braap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member grahamfz07 Posted May 14, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted May 14, 2015 you could try re-taping the threads, and look for alternatives if that doesn't pan out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 Depends on how bad... Are the threads totally gone or just some damage or cross-threading? If their totally gone you can repair with heli-coils or time-serts. You can also drill out to the next size up, re-tap and buy corresponding larger bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 Well, the proper way to fix it would be to drill the hole bigger, and then tap the hole to take an insert like http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-6-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B0002KKPXK Can't remeber if those threads are 5 or 6mm, so you'd have to check. Can a finger be reached under that suction of the subframe with the seat removed such that a nut can be held in place? You could drill the hole clean of threads and then epoxy a nut below the frame. Put a couple dabs of JBWeld on the nut w/o the seat there, and then use the bolt (maybe some vaseline or antiseize on the threads) to pull and hold the nut into place. Leave it sit some hours or overnight - problem solved You guys need to invest in a set of T handled ball end hex keys so this sorta thing doesn't happen. The T handle gives heft to the wrench so that it can be spun will removing bolts. The ball end allows the wrench to be at an angle to the bolt head http://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-15389-Metric-Handle-stand/dp/B002NZQSD8/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1431623450&sr=1-11&keywords=t+handle+ball+end+allen+wrench+set Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 oops, 2 votes for inserts If it's only the top portion of the threads that are buggered, you could run a tap back thru, but the tap would be best started from below where the threads will match up to the tap properly. The tap will just follow the buggered threads at the top and you'll wind up with no threads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thestache Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 Well, the proper way to fix it would be to drill the hole bigger, and then tap the hole to take an insert like http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-6-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B0002KKPXK Can't remeber if those threads are 5 or 6mm, so you'd have to check. Can a finger be reached under that suction of the subframe with the seat removed such that a nut can be held in place? You could drill the hole clean of threads and then epoxy a nut below the frame. Put a couple dabs of JBWeld on the nut w/o the seat there, and then use the bolt (maybe some vaseline or antiseize on the threads) to pull and hold the nut into place. Leave it sit some hours or overnight - problem solved You guys need to invest in a set of T handled ball end hex keys so this sorta thing doesn't happen. The T handle gives heft to the wrench so that it can be spun will removing bolts. The ball end allows the wrench to be at an angle to the bolt head http://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-15389-Metric-Handle-stand/dp/B002NZQSD8/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1431623450&sr=1-11&keywords=t+handle+ball+end+allen+wrench+set Rick, good idea, but it was that way when I took the seat off, I just didn't realize it, I thought the bolt was loose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 That bolt is not at an odd angle to the frame underneath. But it's sure at odds with the seat. With the ball end hex keys, it's far less likely to get cocked and then cross-threaded. Seem to remember someone finding theirs cross threaded after a dealer did the battery cable recall. Fix one thing, break another - sheesh. See if you can glue a nut underneath the frame. That''ll be your simplest fix. It won't show and be plenty strong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thestache Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 That bolt is not at an odd angle to the frame underneath. But it's sure at odds with the seat. With the ball end hex keys, it's far less likely to get cocked and then cross-threaded. Seem to remember someone finding theirs cross threaded after a dealer did the battery cable recall. Fix one thing, break another - sheesh. See if you can glue a nut underneath the frame. That''ll be your simplest fix. It won't show and be plenty strong. Thanks Rick, I am sure that is likely what happened to me, either the recall, or even the EJK install I had a person do for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 People who wrench for a living no better than to keep going after a fastener comes out easy but stops cold after one turn. Worse yet, handing it back knowing he messed it up. There's really no excuse for it, imo. Fortunately, it's just a seat bolt - I've ridden with neither of them in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 After picking up my new bike from the dealer, who performed the battery cable recall... I found the seat bolts to be buggered up. They still hold fine, but they were definitely cross-threaded a bit. So I called them up and waiting to hear a response. In the mean-time, I looked up the parts to fix it: [ul type=disc][*]Subframe Seat Bracket: 1WS-21131-00-00[*]Seat Bolts (2x): 90110-06172-00[/ul] Total for parts shipped is ~$20 (ronayers.com) Now to hear what the dealer says. I'm hoping they get the parts and I'll replace them (do it along with fender eliminator). I don't want them to replace it and/or make several trips there either (waste of time and gas). $20 I can eat it, but its the principal of the matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 20 bucks! That's it? Gotta hate the morns who like to break things, but love the price of parts for this thing. Buying a kit to put inserts in those holes might be near that sorta of price. May as well just replace with new Yeah, and the guy who buggered the holes should pay for those parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thestache Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 20 bucks! That's it? Gotta hate the morns who like to break things, but love the price of parts for this thing. Buying a kit to put inserts in those holes might be near that sorta of price. May as well just replace with new Yeah, and the guy who buggered the holes should pay for those parts. That's good to know, only $20....heck, i will just replace them then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan4130 Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 Came across the same thing on my bike, came cross threaded from the dealer. I was pissed and rode in the next day and made them fix it. Unfortunately, their "fix" was to run a tap through the hole to clean the threads and gave me new bolts. -_- Glad to see it is only $20 for those parts, I was dreading it was going to be more. '15 FZ-09 Cadmium Yellow '15 White Fz-07 - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seabass Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 Sorry to necro the thread, but I ran into the same issue. Bought the bike from a previous owner and the bolts to hold down the seat are striped to shit. I wasn't able to find the replacement parts you guys were talking about. I googled the part # and checked the website and no luck. Anyone know where I can purchase the seat bracket and replacement bolts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 Best to also add "Yamaha parts" to your search. There are a bunch of aftermarket parts suppliers like http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-1WS-21131-00-00.html You'll find the bolts there as well if you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemer Posted April 14, 2017 Share Posted April 14, 2017 I have a sneaking suspicion the problem has been taken care of by now but this is for other people that encounter this same problem. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=Tap+%26+Die After repairing the first hole you'll get that god complex and want to repair that cavity in that molar. Well, maybe not that much confidence but you know what I mean. Beemer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member avanti Posted April 14, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted April 14, 2017 If like many dealers I hope you aren't holding your breath waiting for that call-back! Especially since it is a dealer f**k-up, good luck with that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kylerhsm Posted March 13, 2019 Share Posted March 13, 2019 Another necro thread revival, but relevant nonetheless, and beats making a new thread. I went to replace the flasher relay (with LED) last night, and when removing the seat, the left bolt wouldn't budge. I moved to the right to see if I was actually doing something wrong, but the right one came out as you'd expect. Back to the left, and I had to grip my rubber handled screwdriver with a rag to get enough grip between my two hands to undo the thing. Lo and behold, holy hell that nut (and the hole it goes into) were stripped like crazy! There is no way someone would have been either strong enough, or stupid enough to have put that bolt in like that by hand. I'm thinking some idiot with a rattle gun just fires the crap out of these bolts until they seat. Anyway the thread it stuffed and the new bolt I decided to use just kept free spinning. I'll sort it out later. On another related note (to the LED flasher relay), when going to install the rear indicators I tried to undo the four allen head bolts which sit right above the license plate light so I could get better access to the wires. The first two I tried BENT MY ALLEN KEY and so I gave up, knowing that I'd just end up stripping out the holes in the top of the bolts. Ended up just removing the whole fender and thread the wires though that way. Thanks Yamaha, for making my indicator swap one b!tch of a job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemer Posted March 13, 2019 Share Posted March 13, 2019 13 hours ago, kylerhsm said: Another necro thread revival, but relevant nonetheless, and beats making a new thread. I went to replace the flasher relay (with LED) last night, and when removing the seat, the left bolt wouldn't budge. I moved to the right to see if I was actually doing something wrong, but the right one came out as you'd expect. Back to the left, and I had to grip my rubber handled screwdriver with a rag to get enough grip between my two hands to undo the thing. Lo and behold, holy hell that nut (and the hole it goes into) were stripped like crazy! There is no way someone would have been either strong enough, or stupid enough to have put that bolt in like that by hand. I'm thinking some idiot with a rattle gun just fires the crap out of these bolts until they seat. Anyway the thread it stuffed and the new bolt I decided to use just kept free spinning. I'll sort it out later. On another related note (to the LED flasher relay), when going to install the rear indicators I tried to undo the four allen head bolts which sit right above the license plate light so I could get better access to the wires. The first two I tried BENT MY ALLEN KEY and so I gave up, knowing that I'd just end up stripping out the holes in the top of the bolts. Ended up just removing the whole fender and thread the wires though that way. Thanks Yamaha, for making my indicator swap one b!tch of a job. I just know inspector #4 is to blame. It's always #4. Beemer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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