mwelacha Posted June 7, 2015 Author Share Posted June 7, 2015 Since a guy at dynotune mentioned inserting AFR numbers in the zero part of the table the same way that you did, I'm assuming that that's a real possibility. This whole thing is really confusing to me and maybe I shouldn't have been such a cheap ass trying to do it myself. Live (hopefully) and learn (hopefully)! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member wickedtwister Posted June 7, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted June 7, 2015 in the manual there is a test for the wide band. have you done that? also just because i no longer have afr values at idle does not mean i dont have fuel correction values in here. I think mine is at -9 just to get it to idle around 14.0. I would edit your post and remove cussing thats a very good way to get banned. Also just because i have good results with pcv and autotune does not mean everyone will. If i didn't have such an extensive background in car engine tuning i probably would not have used it. I just don't like dyno tuners, for the most part they only focus on the WOT tune and throw drivability out the window, thats why i do it myself. I am not the only person saying you can unhook the stock o2 sensor, so dont get pissed at me. Thats why i put the links to what the guys from dobeck said about it. I wish you luck in your tuning adventures, but i cannot help you anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwelacha Posted June 8, 2015 Author Share Posted June 8, 2015 I appreciate what you've done so far Wicked. I do. And I did see other places that I could just remove the stock o2 and put the wideband in its place. I'm sorry for apparently blaming you. I should have been patient and done more homework is all. Having a good idea of how the heck the equipment I buy works would have been a good idea too. I'm an idiot and I was pissed at myself so I sincerely apologize for insinuating that you did anything wrong. If I did my research well enough and if I knew what I was doing then I wouldn't have had the problems I did so I am sorry. That was super childish of me. I was in a hurry as usual to get to work today and I just had to throw the narrow band back in and try it out quick, but I forgot about the o2 sensor test they mentioned about pulling it out into ambient air and pushing a button or whatever. I will do that and I really mean it when I say that I VERY MUCH appreciate the time and effort you have been putting in to help me. I have no clue what I'm doing so I would be completely lost otherwise. After taking off the wide band and removing the autotune I rode it to work (about 4 miles) and I got on it and the power is pretty good again. The front end comes up pretty easy in 2nd gear. It might have been like this before and I didn't notice but it does seem like it is really rich at idle. It hesitates the first time I hit the throttle after idling for a few seconds and then it's fine again. It does seem raspier than it did before though and it seems like maybe it lost a tiny bit of power since before the autotune but that might be in my head similar to the way it was in my head that I could blame someone else for my own stupidity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwelacha Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 So I think I killed it. Maybe just a spark plug out but it has been back on the stock o2 sensor and was great for a couple weeks until it started bogging down again in mid to low RPMs. Then it started bogging down and missing all over the place. But I was 100 miles from home so I thought I'd give it a try. I thought at first the PCV was just working too hard and the unit was faulty because it was heating up and if I just kept the throttle at one position, say 30% it seemed to work fine. Normal power and everything pretty much with just a miss here and there but if I pulled in the clutch and let off the gas to give the PCV a break for a minute then it would work okay again. The whole trip I kept switching up the maps including the one from Wicked but they all seemed a out the same. Then I parked for a few minutes and started it up again and I was missing a cylinder. I had it on the temp gauge because I figured if it was lean it would be hot but it never got too hot. The gas mileage was crazy good though so maybe it WAS lean? I don't know. I'm hoping I just killed a spark plug or maybe the o2 sensor? I'm getting it towed the last 50 miles home either way and I can work on it later. Is this a faulty PCV since it did this exact same thing with my Autotune o2 sensor? What do you guys think? Thank you so much for any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member wickedtwister Posted June 19, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted June 19, 2015 I talked to nels at 2wheeldynoworks about pcv vs his flash. He did say pcv's had a very high failure rate. Because of this and I'm perfectly happy with his flash I'm pulling mine off and going to sell it. I would also check any and all vacuum lines around throttle bodies. Make sure one didn't pop off somewhere. I would go to the base tune see if its doing the same thing and if so call dynojet. It could be a bad connection on the harness somewhere being intermittent like this. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 I at this point, I'd go back to stock [pull PCV and associated bits off] and make sure the bike runs correctly... then begin diagnosing the PCV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwelacha Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 Okay, going back to stock is what I will do. Is the base tune the M22-065-001 map? Is there a way to turn the PC off so I don't have to tear everything apart to see if it runs okay without power commander input? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcsrt Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 The base tune from Powercommander is M22-065-001 (their tune for the stock bike) but that is not the base tune of the bike. The base tune would be 0% on the entire but as you know, the O2 optimizer will be operation between 0-20% throttle and 0-~5000rpm. I am still confused why you aren't riding with the M22-065-008 tune (to support your mods of the akra and dna filter) and eliminate the autotune? From your other posts, the autotune was only to reduce the popping sound from deceleration? I am sure their is some gains with the autotune but is it really worth the hastle? (no offence to wickedtwister who has seen great success with the autotune). Dustin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwelacha Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 Yes I believe I wasted my money on the Autotune. I will test that the wideband o2 sensor is functioning and sell it. But I have been running the 008 map lately and the bike still took a dump on me. I started switching up maps on the road, pulling over when the bike would drop a cylinder. I would get up and running and it would seem okay for a little bit and then take a dump again, and I would change maps again. But I haven't had the Autotune in for a while now. Since you recommended that I remove it. I reinstalled the stock o2 and disconnected the Autotune so it's just sitting in a box in my living room. What a waste. That's greed for you I guess. I wanted MORE POWER even though the FZ has plenty enough, plus more. I love the bike but I don't love the bike sitting in my parking lot broke down. BTW, will the popping on deceleration actually hurt anything in the motor? I kind of like the dirty sound of it but I read somewhere that it's harmful. Before I go tearing everything apart to replace the spark plugs or whatever the hell is wrong, I'll try inputting ZEROS in the map on the PC. It is behaving the same way it was when it took a poop when I was using the Autotune, and switching back to the stock o2 sensor and removing the Autotune worked great, so is it likely that I killed the stock o2 now? Why would that only kill one cylinder? I guess I only have a general idea of things to look at so any help you all could offer would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcsrt Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 I have had to change out O2 sensors and it normally effects all cylinders so it should effect both not just one. It sounds like you simply fouled a plug so I would just replace both and stick with the 008 map. Running everything at 0 is rather pointless if you have a map that is designed for your bike. I would try something quick and remove the battery terminal for 30 minutes. Often on new vehicles, it resets everything but not sure on the bike. It's a quick check although I doubt it would solve anything. It certainly couldn't hurt at this point. Cheers, Dustin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwelacha Posted June 21, 2015 Author Share Posted June 21, 2015 Thanks Dustin, I just ordered the plugs off ebay. 10 bucks apiece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwelacha Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share Posted June 25, 2015 Plugs replaced. Fresh and new. they didn't look too bad coming out and the bike is still only on one cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwelacha Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share Posted June 25, 2015 Plugs both replaced but the ones I removed looked like they are in good shape. The bike is still only firing on one cylinder with brand new plugs so the spark plugs was not the problem. I'm thinking that the unit might be faulty so as long as I have everything torn apart I might as well remove the PCV and see what happens? Does anyone have any other ideas? What a PITA. It's a short summer and I want to ride! Anyways...thank you for any help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member wickedtwister Posted June 25, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted June 25, 2015 Sounds like the unit took a crap on you. I'd send it back to power commander for replacement when you get your new one back sell it and go to 2wdw for a flash. I sold mine for 200 shipped in less than 24 hours. Could probably have gotten more for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwelacha Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share Posted June 25, 2015 Removed the PC and I'm firing again. You knew it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member wickedtwister Posted June 25, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted June 25, 2015 Good to hear!! Take a breath man and enjoy that bike! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwelacha Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share Posted June 26, 2015 Thanks wicked. Dynojet isn't being so awesome about a return at this point though. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2wheeldynoworks Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Thanks wicked. Dynojet isn't being so awesome about a return at this point though. Any suggestions? Find your nearest DynoJet dealer and have them take a look at it. When they send it in, it's usually a fairly quick process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwelacha Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Awesome, thanks 2 Wheeler! I'll find out where they are and get it in. $700 is nothing to slouch at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncmx52 Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 I have the PCV and akro titanium with baffle out, stock air filter with snorkel removed. I also purchased the autotune so i wouldn't have to go to the dyno tuners. I can specify what AFR to target everywhere in the power band and it tunes it to get there. You can start with the base tune on their website but i noticed that with the baffle out of the exhaust there is a noticeable bit of power lost with stock tune. Its mainly noticed when under hard acceleration. There are places where my current tune has 20% of fuel added. Now this is a pretty rich tune with pretty good power everywhere. Unhooking the factory O2 sensor will also help as the computer automatically goes more rich when it doesn't see the signal. It also reduces engine braking to a more manageable level. I am still working on this tune but i would be happy to send it to you for a starting point, but i wont take responsibility for any ill affects it causes your bike. I like that its easy to change between tunes with the computer I plan to have a all out power tune and a lean cruising tune for the long highway trips. I also get a lot of deceleration popping with the baffle out which i really dont like. there is also a lot of exhaust smell coming from the bike. I have ordered the cat. converter insert to help maintain back pressure and keep the exhaust gas speed up. At least it works in my mind. Did you ever end up finalizing this tune? I would be interested in trying it, if you are willing to send the file to me. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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