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FZ-07 Akra, DNA, PCV, Baffle IN/OUT


mwelacha

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wickedtwister

Wide band is a larger fitting than stock exhaust. But if you remove the adaptor fitting that comes with akra ti it screws right in.

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Dynojet tells me I need to weld the Autotune O2 sensor in addition to the stock sensor. They say it's necessary. Titanium being a pain in the ass to weld as far as I can tell, and the cost of a titanium bung ($50) on top of the cost to weld it ($50+), is the Autotune really going to make a big difference? It seems like the tune I have from Dynojet on the PC for the Akra/DNA seems okay with just a few flat spots and pretty minimal popping on deceleration (which sounds awesome anyways), so should I send back the Autotune and get a couple hundred bucks and just enjoy the bike as-is?

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bmwpowere36m3

I would disconnect the factory O2 sensor and install the autotune one in its place. The factory O2 sensor is mostly for emissions…. idle, part throttle and cruising.

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captainbeard714

I grabbed the baffle with a big pair of channel locks. Wrapped the ends in a bunch of electrical tape. Squeezed real hard and then tapped the channel locks the opposite direction with a big rubber mallet. Baffle came out relatively easy with little to no damage.

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wickedtwister

The whole purpose of the o2 sensor is emissions. With the auto tune you specify what Afr you want and and the power commander adds or removes fuel until it hits that Afr. That is what I have on my bike and the difference is amazing no flat spots no hesitation.

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Hey guys (wickedtwister, mostly), I'm still plugging away at this bastard. I got the o2 sensor installed yesterday and wired it to the autotune and got the autotune plugged into the PCV. But now I am trying to find a 12V power source. I spliced into the brown wire that appears to go to the tail lights with the little wire splice thing that came with the autotune and the green light comes on but Dynojet says that it isn't getting enough power because the tail lights are LED and don't require much. What wire are you guys splicing into? I'm assuming you are just grounding it to the battery?

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wickedtwister

I spliced into the tag light connector. For positive and ground. I'm not using a tag light anyways so I cut the connector off and soldered my auto tune wires to it.

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Did you access it from under the passenger seat? How could you tell which wire is which from there? I have the Yoshimura fender eliminator kit and the tag light is LED but I'm assuming it doesn't matter because stock probably wasn't (I threw it away). There are three bundles of wires and three connectors for each bundle under the seat. I unplugged each of them one by one trying to locate the tail light originally but each time, the tail/brake light continued to function. So I plugged into the brown one because I found somewhere online that it was the tail light and it powered up the Autotune but Dynojet tells me it isn't enough power. So yeah, which of the wires under the seat is the tag light? Thank you so much for your help man this thing is becoming a bear.

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wickedtwister

Yes it's under the seat there are 4 not 3 connectors in there. One white triangle shaped connector which is the tail light, one black round connector which is the right hand turn signal, one grey round connector which is the left hand turn signal and one more round grey which is the running lights for the plate. I cut this round grey connector off my bike and soldered the leads directly.

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wickedtwister

@mwelacha I just checked on my bike and the running light side of the tail light does have a full 12 volts. It just may not be able to supply the current needed to power the unit. I would check the connections either way. I personally dont use or trust those posi taps that they supply.

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Hey guys. I spliced into the 12V accessory plug under the gas tank. It obviously took me forever to get the thing wired up correctly and up and running but I eventually did and within the first 24 hours, I had accepted about 4 trims from my rides and on the 5th ride, the bike started bogging down in 6th gear in the cruise range. I stopped and accepted trims again and then when I took off everything was fine until a couple of miles down the road it started bogging down in the middle RPMs in both 5th and 6th. I stopped again and when I took off quickly everything was going fine and then it started bogging down again in 5th and 6th gears. I rode the bike into town and I noticed that the bike would sometimes cut off when I would coast to a stop light. I noticed while sitting at the stop light and revving the motor, that the bike is only running on one cylinder for a while but with more revs in neutral, the bike eventually fires on both cylinders. Now the bike is bogging down in all gears and I am smelling unburnt gasoline. The bike will seem fine in neutral or with the clutch engaged, but as soon as I try to take off, the bike will revert to just one cylinder and intermittently return to both cylinders with appropriate power only to immediately return to one cylinder with lack of power. The Autotune quit functioning on me suddenly too and the AFR is reading 9.99 like it was before I was able to get it wired up correctly. I returned the PC5 to the base map so it is not running based on the trims I had sent it from the Autotune and I have unplugged the Autotune from the power commander but I am still having the problem that the bike seems fine in neutral or with the clutch engaged, but when I try to accelerate the bike loses a cylinder and I smell unburnt gas at stop lights and when I park it. There is white smoke coming out of the exhaust when the bike is only running on one cylinder and there is moisture in the exhaust pipe but I wiped and smelled the condensation and it is not gasoline.
 

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wickedtwister

First thing first check all your connections on the pcv especially the coils. Can you post your target afr's? If it has been running rich I imagine you have a fouled plug or something.

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wickedtwister

Below is the Target AFR that the guys at 2WheelDynoWorks gave me when they did my Flash.  I have made some small changes to this but for the most part followed their recommendations.   Dynojet does not recommend setting a target afr in the 0% throttle or the 2K rpm and under.  You will have to decide the final target afr's you wish to use.
 
Capture_zpstrkqojib.jpg
 

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I used the target AFRs recommended by dynojet for the autotune and the AFR table has all zeros pretty much in the lighter shaded portion of the the AFR table you just posted. I talked to a dynojet rep yesterday and he mentioned to check all of the connections for the power commander too, which I haven't really done yet because when I installed it I was sure to make sure all of the colors were correct (left, right) and they were all clipped in correctly. There was no jarring of the bike that would make any of the connections come loose and everything was fine until I started accepting trims from the autotune. Even though the symptoms I'm dealing with are exactly like if a plug was fouling out, I don't see a reason a plug should already be fouling with only around 3500 miles on it. It would be quite a coincidence that as soon as I started accepting trims something else went wrong like the plugs or whatever. I don't mean to refute what you are saying and I will definitely double check all of my connections but it just doesn't make any sense unless something is wrong with the PC itself now that I started accepting trims. I uploaded the base map for my setup though and I'm still having the same problem.

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wickedtwister

Well if you can smell fuel its rich.... running rich fouls plugs.. Its where i would check first. I would also fill out the whole RPM range. If there is no value in the cells in which you are its not going to adjust and compensate there. After you went back to base tune it ran worse than it did before so something has changed.
 
I would also look at the idle afr. Mine was pretty rich.
 
Also in the cruise area (the light shaded area of my table above) the place you said had all zeros I was pulling -10% of fuel out in places to hit a target AFR of 14.2. I attribute this to the stock o2 sensor being unplugged and the computer going to rich fueling mode.

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How do you have the O2 optimizer from the PC5 installed? I have it in-line with the stock wiring but obviously unplugged from the O2 sensor that came with the Autotune so it's just sitting under my seat. The dynojet guy mentioned putting in values to the area with zeros too. Do I have to be hooked up to the bike to do that or can I just do it with the software? That totally makes sense that it's now not adjusting the lower rpm ranges so it's stuck with whatever the Autotune did to it down there. If I'm going to tear the bike apart to check the plugs I might as well go ahead and buy new plugs and install them right away because it's 4/5 of the job just to get access to them. But I don't want to be running rich again and fouling out brand new plugs. This is such a pain in the ass wicked and it's scary as hell so thank you for your help.

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OH and I forgot to mention. The AFR is reading 9.99 again at all times like it was before I had it wired up correctly and I double checked the wiring for the Autotune and all appears to be like it was when it was up and running.

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If you have autotune, you will need two O2 sensor locations: one for the autotune to the run the map above 5k and one for the stock O2 to run below 5k. I would try to remove the autotune and make sure you have a good connection with your stock O2 sensor. I am running a similar setup (without autotune) with zero issues.
 
Dustin

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wickedtwister

Guys, I'm not trying to be argumentative here but i think you are over complicating things. Your stock computer on you car bike whatever relies on the O2 sensor input to know where the AFR ratio is.  The computer is programed to hit certain targets based on several inputs.  (TPS, RPM, ect.)  I don't know all the details of how the motorcycle fueling works but i have had very good results in tuning cars drag racing, autocross, and road racing.  (To the tune of a sub 6 second 1/8 pass on a $250 junkyard 5.3L truck motor in a 63 Chevy II on a 235 wide drag radial with stock suspension)
 
The stock "narrow band" o2 sensor has a very narrow range in which it can read values.  14.7 to be exact.   It feeds the computer basically a high or low signal.  if its high it adds fuel if its low it takes it away.  The computer then interpolates this and adjusts fueling as needed.  When you unplug the stock o2 Sensor on the bike or the car the computer doesn't know where the o2 signal is so it defaults high and adds fuel.  We all agree just pulling the stock o2 sensor can be bad for performance but rich is generally safe.
 
When you add a fuel or timing controller you basically hijack the output to the coils and injectors.  It extends or shortens the pulse width of the injectors based on a variable that you define.  If you just have PCV this is the stuff that is in your Fuel tables.  those numbers are the variables.  When you add autotune you add "live tuning"  You give the computer target AFR's and it adjusts fueling variables to hit that AFR. (hey autotune is a clever name for that) 
 
The results you get from using autotune are only as good as the inputs you feed into it.  I rode with mine at the default settings that powercommander had programmed in and HATED it.  So i developed my own AFR tables.  Which were very close to what i posted earlier in this thread.  the main difference is i leaned out the cruise range to 14.2 some for better fuel mileage,  I richened up the WOT to 12.8 and blended the values down from there in a smooth transition, and i changed the idle targets.  I also included values in the 1000-2000 rpm range and 0% throttle.  I really didn't like my bike idling at a afr that rich I think mine was 11.3.  I could feel the plugs loading up when in traffic.  (hesitation and stumbling off idle)   I have ridden 1100 miles with my set up with no issues.  435 of that in one long iron butt ride. 
 
I always say when you do mods to these bikes you need to do a dyno tune or get a autotune module, but what you cannot forget is that the results of that are only as good as the inputs you feed into it.  Ive repeated myself for a reason its really important to utilize the products that you have to the fullest of their potential.
 
Now that i am done with my long drawn out rant i will continue to try to help you.
 
If you read the autotune manual it says "A value of 9.99 could indicate a faulty sensor or the sensor wired incorrectly to the module"  but if you said it was giving you fuel trims so i dont think the sensor is faulty.  I think its just so rich its beyond the limits of the sensor.  I would start with setting a target afr of 14.2 in the 1000-2000 rpm range at 0% throttle.  Set your autotune to come on and do its thing, I use a delay of 60 seconds.  Let the bike idel until you see the autotune running light come on, you will probably hear a difference as well.  When you see this you will begin to see number in the fuel adjust field on the right.  Id be willing to bet it was really freaking rich at idle, and you may see a value of -20...  which again really isnt a bad thing as long as your not exceeding the limits of the software will allow i think 50.  the most important thing is that you define a afr for the bike to run in and it can meet that afr.  you may max out your fuel trims at first, accept them and go again.  Over time the trim amount will become less.  When i got back from my 435 mile ride my largest trim value was 3.  You may have some stumbling or hesitation issues due to improper targets (i did at just off idle) but once I got everything ironed out its ran fine every since.
 
I dont want to openly share my exact AFR tables because i dont think many people have the same set up as me.  Akra ti with db killer out but a cat installed.  I have the cat to help with reversion of the exhaust.  basically freash air flow backwards in the exhaust giving a false reading you can compensate (richer) for this in your target afr's if you think its happening.  I still think i am getting some, but think is the key word.   I was also able to pick up some mid range power as felt on the butt dyno without loosing the freaking epic sound that this exhaust has with no db killer.   sorry this was so long.  good luck let me know if you need any more help.
 

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Wicked, that first post is super helpful. I was initially thinking of going back to stock o2 sensor and screw the autotune for now but I will use the AFR table you sent me and see what happens. I hope that I didn't kill the wideband though, in which case trying to run it again will likely give me the same fuel mixture and foul my plugs if they are in fact still okay. Your posts have been a huge help to me so thank you very much.

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wickedtwister

No problem. I was working on my bike today so i got the laptop out to see how the WB 02 reacted. after start up it stays a 0.00 for about 10 seconds then it goes to 9.99 for another 5-10 seconds or so. after that it starts reading as it should. It's possible that you are not waiting long enough for it come into live reading. I know it has to get up to about 600 deg or so before it will start reading. I'd be shocked if you killed it.
 
I forgot to mention once i got the idle and off idle where i wanted it i pulled the AFR targets out. I forgot i did this until i looked at it. After idling for a long period of time it traffic it starts acting very odd. Which is why Power Commander doesn't suggest using target values there.
 
 
 

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I'm pretty sure I killed it. I was just out there and I inserted the AFR table you recommended. I waited about 2-3 full minutes with nothing but 9.99 and the green light on the autotune kept blinking sporadically. Then I went into PC Tools or whatever to make sure it was enabled but the program won't let me enable it, won't let me adjust start time (60 sec) or max/min trims (+/-20). The software doesn't seem to be picking it up. I'm going to reinstall the stock one and unplug the autotune so I'm just running off the PC. Unless o2 sensors can be refurbished I expect to be out about another hundred. I'm about to pitch the whole autotune deal.
 

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With the narrow band in now it seems to be running solid but I'll know for sure in a little bit. I only rode it for about 200 yards. I wish I could get the autotune going though. For future reference, would it be advisable to leave the stock 02 sensor wiring unplugged from everything and remove the o2 optimizer when I get a new wideband, and just have the autotune and wideband hooked into the PCV? Is my wideband refurbishable if it's ruined by moisture? My fault for not doing my homework. I appreciate how much help you've been with it the last few days Wicked. I appreciate your time.

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