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pattonme

Andreani Advanced Cartridge kit

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robsoup

Yep living in the UK. I'll take a look at those links you posted cheers!
 
If the nix22 is available for around £500 then I think it looks like it could be quite a good buy. More research required....! :)

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bigtwin

Hi everyone
After 7000kms on the Andreani cartridges, all I can say that I am very content with the bike's handling and roadholding. Any reservations about inadequate oil flow have evaporated on riding. Clearly bench tests and flow theory are one thing.....and pushing the bike for real on the road, is another. The holistic riding experience will always be more than the performance of one component.
 

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paulibiker

I went with this kit also. Lighter oil in the compression side and I went 5 turns in when installing the caps. May need the extra turn on compression side not so much on the rebound. Did it "just in case".
 
Too bad it's 15 degrees out, no real world experience yet..............

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rockbottom

I am currently in the process of installing the andreani cartridge kit (that i got months ago and never put in till now). im looking for the fork oil volume or level with no luck finding any info on installing the kit on the fz07. i have emailed omnia racing who i purchased the kit from but have not heard back from them yet. if anyone knows or knows were to find it i would very much apperciate it it the only thing holding me from finishing.

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pattonme

There's supposed to be a sticker on the instruction "booklet" if I remember. Go with 140 to start (easier to add than subtract) and if you're using pretty much all your travel in your best, maximum effort stop, add to get to 130 or 125. Be sure to use a 10-12cSt@40 oil in the C leg. The R leg can use the stuff that came in the box.


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rockbottom

thanks for the reply i starting to get frustrated and need all the info i can get. the booklet that i got has got the pics and discriptions on what to do but its not that helpful in terms of information. and doesnt help that its pretty broken english lol. also this is my first real fork work, ive changed seals in a couple crapy old bikes but had manuels to look at and wasnt changing anything. stupid question but the level comes from the top of the fork tube at full extension correct?

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pattonme

nope. You do that you'll end up with forks so stiff you'll be lucky to survive.
 
You measure oil with the cartridge in (obviously) but springs out and forks collapsed all the way. And make sure the cartridge is fully bled before taking any measurements.
 


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rockbottom

ok thanks, that does make more sense. was thinking about that after i wrote that and seemed like it would be alot of oil. now i just have the provided ohlins no 5 oil that came with it and assume it bee fine for both sides since it was included, but should i get a different no/weight for whichever leg? and if so which one? im not a very aggresive rider so i dont know if that makes much difference. right now i just want to get the bike off the stands and back on the road but i dont want to half ass it.

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rockbottom

ok cool im gonna go with the no 5 in both legs for now, just to get it done. and never know might be fine for how i ride. but with doing so would you suggest same amount for each leg or more/less for C/R?

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pattonme

same amounts.


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rockbottom

ok so start at 140 and see how that feels?

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rick
ok cool im gonna go with the no 5 in both legs for now, just to get it done. and never know might be fine for how i ride. but with doing so would you suggest same amount for each leg or more/less for C/R?
Unless you ride on glass smooth roads, Imo, you'll be happier with 10cSt, lighter (#2?) fluid in the compression side. Even with the lighter fluid, I have the C adjuster backed out the 4 full turns and wouldn't mind the compression a bit softer.   
Not sure adding another 20mm of air space will help anything. May as well just stay with the recommended 120mm. BTW, I think that 120mm air gap is on the kit's box somewhere. 
 
 
 

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rockbottom

alright thanks so much for the help. went with 140 cuz thats the info i had last night when put it all together (didnt go to bed till it was done about 5 lol). i can always add/change the oil thats easy now that i have a starting point thanks to you guys. well now time to go ride it and see how it is and the fun part of trying to get it "dialed in". thanks again for the info couldnt have done it otherwise.

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rockbottom

looked at the box again and found the air gap of 120 hard to see the sticker was torn. so adding more oil then ride. hope dont need to take it apart again anytime soon.

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rick

Who's looking at the outside of the box anyway when the fun stuff is inside??, lol.

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pattonme

seems this thread is calling out to @rick for his promised update... :)


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rick

Sorry., After last week's road race (which i definitely would've lost if it really had turned into a race, lol) , where I was concentrating more on keeping the pace than paying attention to suspension behavior, I was hoping to get a long ride in by myself. The weather is just not cooperating.
 
The cartridge now has a new, unadjustable compression valve in the rebound side and a new compression valve in the adjustable side that will allow more fluid to pass. I'm still running 10cST fluid in the C side and 16 in the rebound. Even with the changes, I'm still 4 turns to on the compression and 3 out on the rebound - that's not changed.
 
So, impressions after the burr.
 
One thing annoying sensation that's been fixed is the feeling that the front tire is overinflated while at moderate speeds (35mph-ish) going over small bumps like thick tar snakes. Sorry, don't know a better word to describe this other than the front pattering along with every little rise felt as a tap on the bars.
 
Some of the roads we were on last week were not in the best shape, a couple were just downright bad, so the suspension got a pretty good workout. I'm sure there were places that the OE bits would have caused me to slow down out of fear. The Andrea's, as delivered, would have been fine on the smooth stuff ( we did a section of US250 in the panhandle of WVA that had just been paved - a map will not do this road justice), and probably would have survived the bumpy stuff, but it would have been more work with the fatigue that comes with it.
 
There was one frost heave that i didn't see and hit at about 50 mph that almost popped the bars out of my hands, but that was maybe the worst thing it did. Not once did bumps or holes cause me/bike to skitter wide - and there was lots of opportunity for that - the bike went where I pointed it - as long my brain stayed focussed, it even stayed in the lane, lol..
 
Where high speed compliance falls short sometimes, this translates into a really sweet, controlled front compression when hard on the brakes. The ugly collapse with the stock legs is history.
 
we put about 65 miles on the interdrones to get to and from the fun stuff, 225 in total. I sorta hate droning along at 70 mph. With only a small shield for wind protection instead of full fairings that I've come use to , I'd prefer a bit more wind protection for this. And with that, I was probably more bothered by the turbulence kicked up as we got past big trucks than how the suspension soaked up expansion joints and whatever. It's still not as plush as my Futura, but that bike was designed to eat up miles comfortably at far higher speeds - The fairing on that bike still gets mixed styling reviews, but there's little to no wind pressure at 85 and what there is is from shoulders up and that old Rotax motor is only a bit over half way in its revs at those speeds (it'll do a legit 150mph before hitting the rev limiter) - so maybe not a fair comparison.
 
BTW, while running revs to 8k in 3rd gear, rolling the throttle back for turns, whacking it open hard coming out of turns back to 8k - repeat, I was getting about 60mpg! On-off throttle snatch really raised its ugly head during this play. I can see how that would be annoying and maybe dangerous on the track, but I like having the fuel economy, so will just live with it - maybe just try to be smoother.
 
I'm planning to open the forks up again - maybe in the spring to dump out this still new fluid. It came out so black this last time, with the new valve in the adjustable C side probably wearing in and creating some more fine aluminum goo, I want to make sure the fluid is clean. I think I'll add another 1/2 or one full turn to the adjuster before capping it back up to see if that will add a bit more cush to the compression.
 
So, would I go thru this again? Given what was available at the time and the buy-in deal for the cartridges and Ohlins shock, yeah, probably. The front is now so much better than OE, there's no comparison. But w/o Pattonme's expertise, it would not be as good as it now stands. So a big thanks to Matt.
 
Still, a better solution is to have a 4 valve set-up. So either Pattonme's retrofit with Showa stuff or this Matris system that's been talked about. Whether the compression is adjustable from the bottom or just fixed, trying to get these small cartridges to behave like a BPF is just gonna fall short.
 
Still gotta do a swap with my friend with etc SDukeR - not only for the ride on the "Beast", but to get his take on the FZ as set up. Got one more weekend before I hop a plane for a vacation, so we might still get that done before the weather turns foul, called November.
 
 
 
 
 

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