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What oil do you use?

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[div align=center]oil-trading-online1.jpg[/div]
There is more and more talk about what oil is to be used. There are a lot of myths and truths when it comes to lubrication. 
 
There is some talk about it in our oil filter thread, but I think it is a good idea to start an oil specific topic.
 
Please share you opinion and experience here. 
 
What brand do you use? Do you prefer dino or synthetic oil. What viscosity do you prefer?
Do you notice a change when when switching brands, stuff like that.
 

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Guru
Here is the recommended brand and viscosity according to Yamaha
 
[div style=text-align:center]oil.png[/div][div style=text-align:center]
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Guru
And this thread made me choose Rotella T6 5W40, which is technically oil for diesel engines. 
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cndnmax
I used rotella t6 in my last bike, I'll be using it in the fz07 also.

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rowdy
At 450 miles I switched to Rotella T6 with a PureOne filter. I bought a K&N filter and 3 qts of Valvoline 4T synth (motorcycle specific) for my next change. I'm at 1050 and will probably do a change soon (before I get more than another couple hundred miles). I bought the Valvoline to compare shift smoothness with the T6. T6 is 5-40 and the Valvoline is 10-40. While using the T6, I think I may have noticed a little more clunk when shifting, and I have definitely hit the ghost neutral a few times, so I'm hoping a little higher viscosity, and MC specific might help the problem. Then again, it might just be the nature of the FZ-07 (seems like all bikes have their quirks).

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grahamfz07
Ive been running the 10w40 yamalube so far, just did my second oil change with it. Im definately interested in the other options available like the rotella or royal purple

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mjh937
I use Mobil 1 motorcycle oil, 10W-40. It seems to work great. Shifting is trouble free. I will be sticking with it. It is a bit more expensive than other options but I cannot justify experimenting on my bike. Using a non-motorcycle oil scares me.

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phicurious86
First oil change tomorrow. Switching to Castrol RS 4T 10W40. Will update with shifting feel.
 
*Update*
 
Shifting - Noticeable smoother, especially after starting in neutral and shifting to 1st. Butter once the engine is up and running.
 
Temp - 3-4 degrees cooler across the entire operating range. Yesterday prior to change the engine was operating at 181F with the factory oil, after switching to the above temp dropped to 178F. 90F outside temp. Running at 5.5k rpm for 20ish minutes. 
 

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Guest sportyeight
So far so good with the Rotella T6.

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Guest sportyeight
Using a non-motorcycle oil scares me.
What it is rated for is > what it's marketed as.

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Guest Ralph
Any well known brand of 10/40 semi syn,
I have never noticed any difference on
modern bikes but when I ran my 40 year
old Morini on dyno oil it would need valve
adjustments every 1800/2000 miles now on
semi it as not needed it for over 10,000 miles
modern engines seem to like thinner rather 
than thick oil, it circulates faster on cold starts,
not giving any advice or recommendations this
is just what works for me.

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aeisan
I've been using Motul dino 10w40 up until now (2500 miles). Next change when I get the time is going to be to synthetic. I've not decided which one yet, but it will most likely be Motul if I can get it locally or on Amazon - which means it'll most likely be Motul ha.
 
Once the "major" players are known, can we add a poll to this? I'm a visual person and seeing a bar graph would be helpful. It might not capture all oils, but maybe you can put an "other" category and people can still comment on what their "other" is.

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bmwpowere36m3
Oil topics or debates are like religious ones... there'll never be agreement.
 
Anyway, I've been using Rotella T a lot (synthetic and dino) and Mobil One synthetic.

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rick
 T6 is 5-40 and the Valvoline is 10-40. While using the T6, I think I may have noticed a little more clunk when shifting, and I have definitely hit the ghost neutral a few times, so I'm hoping a little higher viscosity, and MC specific might help the problem. 
This is a bit flawed as both of those oils should have a viscosity rating of 40W when hot. They'll only differ (in theory) when really cold.  
And I'm saying in theory cause oil viscosity is not really measured in X-w-Whatevers. Page down tho the 1st and 3rd charts in this link and you'll see what I'm referring to http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oils/oil_viscosity_explained.htm
 
The true viscosity is measured in cSt or Saybolt units. Those SAE numbers we use actually use for reference represent a range of true viscosity units. The 20w oils really show this potential range.
 
 It really gets complicated as some manufacturers will make their 40w (only gonna talk about hot cause that's where we ride the most) at the low end of the allowed range to call it a 40w and some will be at the high end. It's not impossible to know, but the label on the bottle won't tell ya.  
 
Add to this the reality that oils will lose viscosity with use and it's just a crap-shoot unless you have your choice of oil analyzed both new and old. And that's how you know your oil is still a 40w after 3 or 5k miles 
 
My preference - full synthetic oil designed for a wet clutch combined with either an OE filter or equivalent. Saving a few bucks on a cheap filter is just, well, pennywise and -----
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rowdy
 T6 is 5-40 and the Valvoline is 10-40. While using the T6, I think I may have noticed a little more clunk when shifting, and I have definitely hit the ghost neutral a few times, so I'm hoping a little higher viscosity, and MC specific might help the problem. 
This is a bit flawed as both of those oils should have a viscosity rating of 40W when hot. They'll only differ (in theory) when really cold.  
And I'm saying in theory cause oil viscosity is not really measured in X-w-Whatevers. Page down tho the 1st and 3rd charts in this link and you'll see what I'm referring to http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oils/oil_viscosity_explained.htm
 
The true viscosity is measured in cSt or Saybolt units. Those SAE numbers we use actually use for reference represent a range of true viscosity units. The 20w oils really show this potential range.
 
 It really gets complicated as some manufacturers will make their 40w (only gonna talk about hot cause that's where we ride the most) at the low end of the allowed range to call it a 40w and some will be at the high end. It's not impossible to know, but the label on the bottle won't tell ya.  
 
Add to this the reality that oils will lose viscosity with use and it's just a crap-shoot unless you have your choice of oil analyzed both new and old. And that's how you know your oil is still a 40w after 3 or 5k miles 
 
My preference - full synthetic oil designed for a wet clutch combined with either an OE filter or equivalent. Saving a few bucks on a cheap filter is just, well, pennywise and -----
I realize the viscosity numbers alone are a factor, but probably not the biggest factor.  As the link you reference points out, the VI (viscosity index) can make two oils of the same viscosity perform differently at any given temperature.  I wanted to try Valvoline 4T for comparison because it is motorcycle specific for wet clutch. I'm not smart enough, nor do I have the inclination to find out the VI for any of the oils that I want to use.  

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yamahaha
Oil topics or debates are like religious ones... there'll never be agreement. 
Anyway, I've been using Rotella T a lot (synthetic and dino) and Mobil One synthetic.
You got that right. I think the crowd here is too mature to have oil wars.  
I use Petrocan Duron.
 
 
 

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squintyeyes
Just switched to Royal purple full synthetic 10-40 after 1500 miles. Haven't rode with it Since my bike is in pieces to add a projector headlight. Will report how the shifting is when i get the chance.

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Beemer
Oil topics or debates are like religious ones... there'll never be agreement. 
Anyway, I've been using Rotella T a lot (synthetic and dino) and Mobil One synthetic.
You got that right. I think the crowd here is too mature to have oil wars.  
I use Petrocan Duron.
 
 

Oh, come on! Let's have some fun like our world leaders do and fight over oil. Oh yeah, Yamalube 10W 40.
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rubberbandman72
Mobil 1 motorcycle oil. Designed for bikes with wet clutches. Mobil 1 has always been good to my racecar engines so I'm sticking with it.
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rowdy
Mobil 1 motorcycle oil. Designed for bikes with wet clutches. Mobil 1 has always been good to my racecar engines so I'm sticking with it.
I don't think you can go wrong with M1 for motorcycles. 

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dewski
AMSOIL MCF 10W-40 with the eaom103 filter

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rick
Will switch from Yamalube to Amsoil at my next change and not look back.
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fastfredyb
Royal purple 10w-40. No complaints with the KN 204 oil filter
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