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is exhaust performance even noticeable?


farmer67

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placebo effect. Or there may be inefficiencies upstream of the snorkel (eg. tank fits too tight) so by removing the snorkel air has an easier time slipping into the air filter. This was a common trick on the Gen1 SV whereby we raised the tank and rid the snorkel to get more air into the engine. I did something similar to my ZR7 back in the day as the airbox intake was so preposterously small and convoluted, it wasn't even funny.

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rotaryryan24

I believe the snorkel is mainly for noise and to prevent large objects and water from entering into the air filter. Without the snorkel the sound waves come up through the seat into your butt, I was able to feel the difference big time (the vibrations in the seat not really power wise).
If you really want to get the most out of an aftermarket exhaust you need to get more air into the engine also, as well as fuel. Bottom line is the stock air box will only let so much air in do to the small size if the air filter opening, even without the snorkel.
 
The answer to this is my High-flow airbox.
I just posted up the first one available to the public. There will be more coming soon, I already have all the parts cut to make a couple dozen more.
http://one-off-fabrication.myshopify.com/collections/fz07-high-flow-air-box/products/fz07-high-flow-air-intake-box

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You do or don't
Then your dead.
 
To order a tail tidy click
One-off-fabrication.myshopify.com

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That's a nice intake good job man you have good skills.
Does opening up the intake make are bikes louder? Does it sound good?

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rotaryryan24
That's a nice intake good job man you have good skills. Does opening up the intake make are bikes louder? Does it sound good?
 
Yes the bike is louder under load, but when cruising there is no real difference.
the sound itself is very aggressive while the throttle is wide open, a throaty groan. Nothing like some import car tin can intakes.

You do or don't
Then your dead.
 
To order a tail tidy click
One-off-fabrication.myshopify.com

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phicurious86
e6346c85a7f81cf94605c437a9fd2252.jpg
 
33409b62ec524ad1f551be76d541b792.jpg
 
You should see it when you remove the seat towards the front of the bike. To remove squeeze in one side of the rubber where it attaches to airbox and pull up. You'll need to wiggle things around and squeeze on other edges of the snorkel until you pull the whole thing out.
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Just take the seat off. Fyi, that snorkle has been cut. It usually extends way down into the airbox.

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phicurious86
Just take the seat off. Fyi, that snorkle has been cut. It usually extends way down into the airbox.
Correct! Should have made note of that in my post. Don't get freaked out when you see an additional couple inches of rubber extending down into the airbox.
 
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phicurious86
So by pulling out by hand from under seat I'm not going to disrupt anything right?
Shouldn't. Just go slow and steady on the removal rather than just trying to rip it out.  
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This has probably been asked before but doesn't removing the snorkel make the bike louder and also leaner (fuel wise)? No EJK or other programmer added

'15 FZ-09 Cadmium Yellow
'15 White Fz-07 - Sold

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phicurious86
This has probably been asked before but doesn't removing the snorkel make the bike louder and also leaner (fuel wise)? No EJK or other programmer added
Yes to louder, but only barely, and you feel a bit more vibration under the seat. In theory you'd also be leaning things out by allow more air into the engine, but I'm not sure how it has played out in practice.  
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Ejk settings on the carbon exsaust with this bike, said to remove snorkel, for better performance, according to their jet kit fuel zone settings chart, but havent bothered removing yet...now im more skeptical when ppl say it will lean the fuel out, but shouldnt the EJK correct for that anyway?

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phicurious86
Ejk settings on the carbon exsaust with this bike, said to remove snorkel, for better performance, according to their jet kit fuel zone settings chart, but havent bothered removing yet...now im more skeptical when ppl say it will lean the fuel out, but shouldnt the EJK correct for that anyway?
The EJK settings with the snorkel removed should be a little rich when compared to the same settings with the snorkel in (since the fuel settings were optimized for an engine that would be getting more air with the snorkel removed). I'm guessing it'd only make a significant difference for harder acceleration and wide-open-throttle where the engine wants all the air it can get.
 
When I was running the EJK with the snorkel-in, I noticed some very small backfires under hard acceleration (specifically in 2nd and 3rd gear) when I ran the bike with the snorkel-out recommended settings. I backed off the fueling a tad in that zone and the backfiring almost entirely went away. 
 
If you've got an EJK hooked up already, just go for a ride with the recommended settings and see how it performs. If the engine feels weak in some rev zones, you might add .5 to the fueling in that rev zone, if you're getting some backfire, then you can try decreasing fueling by .5 in that rev zone (or increasing, seems the cause can go either way here). You've got more than a few knobs to turn on the unit.
 
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Very few times I get small backfires, but when under hard deceleration usually downhill, and utilizing engine breaking, normal?

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howworkclutch

Some pop on deceleration is normal. By getting rid of it you are detuning the engine. Look at ralley cars as an example.
 
But it's also indicative of an exhaust leak. So if you swapped to a full exhaust system check the header bolts for proper torque etc etc etc.
 
You can't have max performance without some form of operational oddities.
 

-HowWorkClutch

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phicurious86
Very few times I get small backfires, but when under hard deceleration usually downhill, and utilizing engine breaking, normal?
 
Yeah the hard decel backfiring is perfectly normal. I was getting what seemed like mini backfiring while accelerating in the yellow zone, so I decreased the fueling a touch on those areas to see if it would help, and it did.
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Some pop on deceleration is normal. By getting rid of it you are detuning the engine. Look at ralley cars as an example.  
But it's also indicative of an exhaust leak. So if you swapped to a full exhaust system check the header bolts for proper torque etc etc etc.
 
You can't have max performance without some form of operational oddities.

 
 
Actually, on my FZ-09 and most other bikes the decel pop is cause by the AIS pump. It's an emissions part that pumps air back into the chamber to help burn off the leftover carbon. The simple fix is to either install block off plates or have the ECU flashed to shut the pump off. Myself, I'm not sure how the FZ-07 is set up but the ECU flash eliminated almost all of the Decel pop on my FZ-09.
 
 
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I love the deceleration pops and crackles. Sounds awesome to my ear even if it isn't totally optimal.

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howworkclutch

Hence the mention of exhaust leaks.
 
If an engine is sending unburned fuel down the tail pipe, the introduction of oxygen causes the already-hot gas to combust.
 
An ais pump does exactly that: send oxygen down the tail pipe. Tuning to get rid of pop just means leaning out the mix. Something you already had prior to paying someone to richen the mix. You're back at square one, are short on cash, and there is no way you can quantify the changes.
 
Some folks accept that some unburned fuel is sent down the tail pipe. Typically, these folks are called racers. They have a need to understand how engines work.
 
Your typical consumer is a totally different breed of human. They don't race. They don't care how am engine works. What they do care about is having someone tell them that thier engine is the best. And there is no shortage of people who are wiling to exchange false assurances for cold hard cash.
 
Some pop on decel means the engine is tuned for racing. There is such a thing as too much pop on decel. But for all intents and purposes, an engine tuned for max power is not going to burn 100% of its charge.
 
Also, an engine tuned for absolute max power (a racers engine) will typically be rebuilt AT LEAST every season. Some are rebuilt every race. Some are rebuilt between heats ( I know some pro nitromethane racers who rebuild every quarter mile).
 
It's fun and sexy to spend money on go-fast parts. Sadly, for the streets, it's a complete and total waste of time and money.
 
Put cash in suspension, brakes, and safety gear.

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-HowWorkClutch

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Couldn't have said it better myself howworkclutch. Also the road ain't a ractrack. No really it isn't. On a race track you can pretty much trust the people on the road with you. A lot. The track is (usually) clean. No one is going the other way. You CAN use all the road...ALL of it. If you crash they will stop the session and pick you up in the attending ambulance. You WILL be wearing sufficient protective gear. You go over the same surfaces repeatedly until you know every stone and crack. You get to know intimately your bikes characteristics ( that pretty much doesn't happen on the road)
I fully support changing the exhaust if you want to ( and fully support leaving it stock). But if you are changing the exhaust just to get a tiny HP boost at peak HP revs you are wasting you money. Less weight is always good. Nice sound. A little extra HP and torque . Preferable looks perhaps. And a touch of semi uniqueness. Together they make it a bit more worth it.

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Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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Not to belabor @howworkclutch's point. You also get incorrect/insufficient burn from being "jetted" too lean. And if anything the FZ07 is solidly on that end of the spectrum. Our esteemed EJK supplier can hook you up with a A/F ratio gauge and you can tell in near real-time which way the mixture is going under hard decel. 

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