wr250x Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 So my chain was tightened today and when I got home I saw the the alignment marks on the swing arm don't match. Left side/ chain side almost at 5..right side at 4. Would I have to loosen the axle nut to adjust the right side? I never did any driving alignment test and I didn't notice anything drive wise odd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member so1102 Posted March 21, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted March 21, 2015 Yes, loosen the axle nut and then also the two locknuts on the chain adjusters, then adjust chain adjusters until both sides match and re-tighten everything. I'm thinking the axle nut needs to be torqued to 47 ft/lbs, but I may be wrong (and someone will let us both know) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wr250x Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 Can i loosen the axle nut , leave the left adjuster as is , and loosen the right adjuster to adjust ? Thanks for the info..just want to make sure.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wr250x Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 I'm just a bit confused on the mechanics. With the axle nut somewhat loose nothing moves unless using the adjusters on left or right correct? Those adjusters slide the plates forward or backwards. The axle nut tightened pulls the plates together to secure correct? Just want to be sure it's centered all around. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
she3pdog Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Not my video, but it has a pretty good explanation. Also, he says the wrong torque value. It's 76 ft-lbs by the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ralph Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 You will likely have to adjust both sides to get the chain just right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YZEtc Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 The rear axle torque spec. is 76 ft/lbs. If you have ever adjusted chain slack on a WR250X, the FZ-07 works the same way: When you loosen the axle nut, nothing will happen until you apply some force to make the wheel move forward or backward. The smaller adjuster nuts can only pull the wheel axle rearward.If you want the rear wheel to move forward, you have to loosen the smaller adjusting nuts a few turns and physically push the wheel forward. When you are done, you should have the axle nut properly tightened, the smaller adjuster nuts properly tightened, the adjustment marks on both sides of the swingarm equal, and, something very important here: Take another chain slack measurement at several different points of rear wheel rotation (it will vary a bit as you spin the wheel) to ensure you do not have too little slack, as most riders tend to adjust with too little slack. This includes many motorcycle techs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wr250x Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 Thanks everyone for the feedback. I only need to adjust the right side. Can I loosen the axle nut, leave the left alone so nothing moves chain is perfect, and adjust the right only ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YZEtc Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Yes. When you have the adjustment marks equal, first tighten the axle nut, then the small adjuster nuts.Double-check the alignment marks and repeat if required. Then double-check the whole operation by measuring chain slack. If it's too tight, that's no good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryderjay Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 I'm all for people knowing how to maintain and repair their own bikes. But I have to be the stickler here. It sounds like you paid to have maintenance done on you FZ07? If so I'd call the shop and complain. I had a shop not tighten the rear up after a tire change which almost killed me. I stopped using mechanics afterward and do all my own work. (That way if I die I have no one to blame but myself lol) So a) call and express your issue with their poor attention to detail (wheel alignment etc is important and could seriously injure or kill you if done improperly) B) always check the quality of work before accepting your bike back from the shop. C) purchase the shop manual for your bike and do what you can on your own. Bike maintenance is a lot easier than most realize and there is a ton of help online. The shop manuals are written in a manner that a 5 th grader could understand them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChicagoAJ Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Sorry to bump something from a year ago, but I'd rather do this than start a new thread entirely. I just tightened up my chain, I'm at 160 miles on the bike due to poor weather/cold. It was about an inch of slack loose. I followed the manual on how to tighten it, made sure the plates on the swingarm were at the same notches (just before the 4th one), and then tightened everything back up again. The plate on the opposite side of the chain side twisted up but it's still in place. No matter what I did there was no way to keep it level with the swingarm, I barely loosened the axle-nut to try and move it back but there was nothing to keep it from moving after torquing the nut to 76 ft/lbs. Now it looks like the adjuster is a bit off the 4th hash mark but if it was twisted down where it should be, it would perfectly even with the other side. Is this ok or should I try to get something to hold the plate in place while I torque everything down. I took it out for a 30 mile ride after and everything seemed ok and I checked the torque again, everything stayed about the same. Chain is just over 2 inches from the guard to the center of the chain when light pressure is applied. I know it's not rocket science, but this is the first bike I'm doing my own maintenance on so any feedback would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member hobbs Posted March 29, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted March 29, 2016 Sorry to bump something from a year ago, but I'd rather do this than start a new thread entirely. I just tightened up my chain, I'm at 160 miles on the bike due to poor weather/cold. It was about an inch of slack loose. I followed the manual on how to tighten it, made sure the plates on the swingarm were at the same notches (just before the 4th one), and then tightened everything back up again. The plate on the opposite side of the chain side twisted up but it's still in place. No matter what I did there was no way to keep it level with the swingarm, I barely loosened the axle-nut to try and move it back but there was nothing to keep it from moving after torquing the nut to 76 ft/lbs. Now it looks like the adjuster is a bit off the 4th hash mark but if it was twisted down where it should be, it would perfectly even with the other side. Is this ok or should I try to get something to hold the plate in place while I torque everything down. I took it out for a 30 mile ride after and everything seemed ok and I checked the torque again, everything stayed about the same. Chain is just over 2 inches from the guard to the center of the chain when light pressure is applied. I know it's not rocket science, but this is the first bike I'm doing my own maintenance on so any feedback would be great. It's possibly inevitable. Happens to my adjuster plate as well. In around 19k miles, I haven't died and the bike hasn't fallen apart, so I consider it harmless. Everything went braap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChicagoAJ Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 Sorry to bump something from a year ago, but I'd rather do this than start a new thread entirely. I just tightened up my chain, I'm at 160 miles on the bike due to poor weather/cold. It was about an inch of slack loose. I followed the manual on how to tighten it, made sure the plates on the swingarm were at the same notches (just before the 4th one), and then tightened everything back up again. The plate on the opposite side of the chain side twisted up but it's still in place. No matter what I did there was no way to keep it level with the swingarm, I barely loosened the axle-nut to try and move it back but there was nothing to keep it from moving after torquing the nut to 76 ft/lbs. Now it looks like the adjuster is a bit off the 4th hash mark but if it was twisted down where it should be, it would perfectly even with the other side. Is this ok or should I try to get something to hold the plate in place while I torque everything down. I took it out for a 30 mile ride after and everything seemed ok and I checked the torque again, everything stayed about the same. Chain is just over 2 inches from the guard to the center of the chain when light pressure is applied. I know it's not rocket science, but this is the first bike I'm doing my own maintenance on so any feedback would be great. It's possibly inevitable. Happens to my adjuster plate as well. In around 19k miles, I haven't died and the bike hasn't fallen apart, so I consider it harmless. That's good to hear. I'm going to measure the distance from the start of where the plate is recessed into the swingarm to the big circle on the plate instead of relying on the adjuster hash marks. If it's always going to move, I think that will be more accurate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
booboobusfz07 Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 You guys know the alignment marks aren't always correct right? Theyre measurements, not specifically alignment. You should check alignment with one of the other multitude of ways before relying on the swingarm marks. The rear wheel needs to be aligned with the chain and/or the front wheel before the swingarm is even remotely considered. Motion pro makes some great alignment tools an they're under 20$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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