rick Posted July 11, 2015 Share Posted July 11, 2015 I personally don't think that "springs too stiff" is a problem in the front unless you weigh about 100 lbs. I noticed when I changed my springs that the stock oil seemed like maple syrup compared to the PJ's 10W I replaced it with (I know that is contrary to other posts, but it is what it is). The front fork is VERY responsive on bumps now, but slightly under-damped, and I might try a fork oil with a slightly higher VI (before I resort to having them rebuilt by pattonme), but they work much better now. The rear is another issue because the stock shock is either too bouncy, or it kicks your arse every time you hit a bump. (My Matris KD is like heaven and smooths everything out making corners with less than perfect tarmac a non-issue). Be careful comparing these viscosity numbers as "weights". They can mean absolutely nothing, especially when you go company to company. According one of the lists you can find anywhere with a search http://mahonkin.com/~milktree/motorcycles/fork-oil.html, PJ1's 10 has a cSt value of 33.9. Mobil One's synthetic ATF has a cSt value of 44! There's really no way to know what's in the fork OE, but Kayaba sells its own fluids as well. Their "10W" fluid is 33 cSt, (about the same as your PJ1) but their 15wt is a whopping 47 cSt. Interestingly, there are Yamaha listings with the same names and numbers. So it's probably one of those. The fluid that Kayaba likely uses in cartridge forks is called zero-One and has a 15.6 cSt value, which is right in line with the Ohlins No. 5 fluid that comes with the Andreani kit 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member rowdy Posted July 11, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted July 11, 2015 I personally don't think that "springs too stiff" is a problem in the front unless you weigh about 100 lbs. I noticed when I changed my springs that the stock oil seemed like maple syrup compared to the PJ's 10W I replaced it with (I know that is contrary to other posts, but it is what it is). The front fork is VERY responsive on bumps now, but slightly under-damped, and I might try a fork oil with a slightly higher VI (before I resort to having them rebuilt by pattonme), but they work much better now. The rear is another issue because the stock shock is either too bouncy, or it kicks your arse every time you hit a bump. (My Matris KD is like heaven and smooths everything out making corners with less than perfect tarmac a non-issue). Be careful comparing these viscosity numbers as "weights". They can mean absolutely nothing, especially when you go company to company. According one of the lists you can find anywhere with a search http://mahonkin.com/~milktree/motorcycles/fork-oil.html, PJ1's 10 has a cSt value of 33.9. Mobil One's synthetic ATF has a cSt value of 44! There's really no way to know what's in the fork OE, but Kayaba sells its own fluids as well. Their "10W" fluid is 33 cSt, (about the same as your PJ1) but their 15wt is a whopping 47 cSt. Interestingly, there are Yamaha listings with the same names and numbers. So it's probably one of those. The fluid that Kayaba likely uses in cartridge forks is called zero-One and has a 15.6 cSt value, which is right in line with the Ohlins No. 5 fluid that comes with the Andreani kit Thanks Rick! I should have said cSt rather than VI, but yea, the rated weight seems kinda misleading. I definitely would not want anything lower than the PJ's that's in there now, but trying to improve the fork at this point might be like putting lipstick on a pig anyway. Why can't left turners see us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtwin Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 I have continued my appraisal of Andreani cartridges in another thread. "Andreani Advanced Cartridge kit" if you want to know how it is going please read updates there. Regards bigtwin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cybmx Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 so a 05 CBR600RR would be a possible direct swap? I saw one on my local craigslist for $60, lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted July 16, 2015 Author Share Posted July 16, 2015 with emphasis on "possible" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 YSS shock looks nicely priced even after import duties Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted August 17, 2015 Author Share Posted August 17, 2015 added Penske Street shock model, and reference to Traxxion Dynamics as supplier and forum sponsor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 added Penske Street shock model, and reference to Traxxion Dynamics as supplier and forum sponsor.The base model Penske shock is a twin tube - the FZ's horizontal mounting is not ideal for that type of shock. When you jump up to the next levels Penske - those will work just fine of course, as they have separate reservoirs for the N2 or whatever magic gas they use. The base Nitron, or Ohlins are better choices as they are mono-tube shocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobMoore Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 I bit the bullet and bought an 07 GSXR 1000 shock off eBay for $50 in good shape. I saw plenty of others in the 50-100 range. I'll post up when it comes in and I have a chance to see if it works. I figured $50 was a price I'd not cry too hard about if it doesn't work and I have to resell it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted August 17, 2015 Author Share Posted August 17, 2015 @rick, yes Emulsion shocks (no piston between oil and gas - almost always N2) aren't the best as a general rule, and I agree in lay-down config I'm not sure how it's supposed to work but I defer to Penske/Traxxion on that. (sending my Traxxion contact an email...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted August 17, 2015 Author Share Posted August 17, 2015 So Penske has tested lay-down and an Emulsion shock "works just fine". Not sure I share that assertion given the caveats... Penske - Emulsion Shock Update Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 @rick, yes Emulsion shocks (no piston between oil and gas - almost always N2) aren't the best as a general rule, and I agree in lay-down config I'm not sure how it's supposed to work but I defer to Penske/Traxxion on that. (sending my Traxxion contact an email...) There is one advantage - with a bladder taking up room in a shock like the Ohlins I bought, the piston travel winds up being a bit restricted. That's not an issue on the twin tube shock. Nitron makes a big deal out of their base shock being monotube and not twin. It was their pr shtick that caused me to read up on these things - before that, had no idea and just thought it was expensive, so had to be better than OE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amycyclenut Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 @rick, yes Emulsion shocks (no piston between oil and gas - almost always N2) aren't the best as a general rule, and I agree in lay-down config I'm not sure how it's supposed to work but I defer to Penske/Traxxion on that. (sending my Traxxion contact an email...) Please do, I'd be very interested to know what it took to make it work! 2015 FZ-07 1986 FZ600 1974 CB450 1973 RD350 sold: 1970 CB350, 1972 CB175, 2009 Vespa S 150 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted August 18, 2015 Author Share Posted August 18, 2015 Please do, I'd be very interested to know what it took to make it work! I guess you missed it? http://fz07.org/post/52251 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 So Penske has tested lay-down and an Emulsion shock "works just fine". Not sure I share that assertion given the caveats... Penske - Emulsion Shock Update have no idea how to go about read that chart. That aside, it would have been nice if they'd run that shock up to about 150F (65c) where rear shocks live, instead of just 10F over today's ambient temp here. A more realistic operating temp would have made for a better test imo. just sayin. It's still gotta be a better shock than the springy lump of steel that comes OE on the 7 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amycyclenut Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Please do, I'd be very interested to know what it took to make it work!I guess you missed it? http://fz07.org/post/52251 Well crap, I quoted the wrong stuff.... I am interested in that GSXR1000 swap. 2015 FZ-07 1986 FZ600 1974 CB450 1973 RD350 sold: 1970 CB350, 1972 CB175, 2009 Vespa S 150 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amycyclenut Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 I bit the bullet and bought an 07 GSXR 1000 shock off eBay for $50 in good shape. I saw plenty of others in the 50-100 range. I'll post up when it comes in and I have a chance to see if it works. I figured $50 was a price I'd not cry too hard about if it doesn't work and I have to resell it. Please let us know how this goes, I'm quite interested. 2015 FZ-07 1986 FZ600 1974 CB450 1973 RD350 sold: 1970 CB350, 1972 CB175, 2009 Vespa S 150 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobMoore Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Shipped today, buy yesterday was the wife's due date...we'll see what kinda free time I have in the next two weeks, lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member adv42 Posted August 18, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted August 18, 2015 Anyone have experience with Hagon shock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobMoore Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Sadly the Gixxer shock isn't going to work without mods I'm not willing to perform. There is very little space above or below the bolt on the front, and as you can see below... the GSXR shock needs a space for the reservoir. So, short of removing my airbox and running pod filters on the throttle bodies, I don't see this option working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 flip the shock around end for end. Also one option is to cut a hole for the reservoir and then stuff something around it to plug it back up. Ghetto, I realize... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobMoore Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 I don't know if that would work, flipping it. The other end is the bunny ear style (nomenclature?) instead of the bolt hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobMoore Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 So flipping won't work. The inside diameter between these two connections is 31mm and those ears aren't fitting in there. I may rethink removing the airbox and running a dual pod filter on the end of a short length of hose. There is plenty of room to do that, and with some quality silicon air hose cut to length it would look pretty decent (though you'd never see it with the body panels on). http://www.knfilters.com/search/univdualstroval.aspx http://www.intakehoses.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=SC4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riding4fun Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Glad someone is working on finding a good stock replacement shock. Keep up the good work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 Not to inject false hope but the "bunny ears" block can be removed from the shaft and a custom part threaded on that retains the adjustment and fits inside the 31mm diameter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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