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wooosaaaw

Issue with Throttle body sync

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wooosaaaw
Hey Guys,
 
So i found the DIY throttle body sync on the forums and decided to give it a try. I bought this sync to run the test:
 
 
http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0411-Syncpro-Carburetor/dp/B000K7JHWA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1424585385&sr=8-1&keywords=motion+pro+sync#productDetails
 
First mistake: i didnt warm the bike up and it died after 3-4 seconds of idle. I wondering is this lead to the next mistake.
 
Major mistake: after warming the bike up i reconnect the syncpro and turned the bike on. The fluid got completely sucked in.. fortunately its not harmful but now i don't have any fluid and i have no idea what i did wrong. I watched the video from motion pro and cant figure out what to do.
 
Thanks for your help or advice in advance.

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wooosaaaw
Just to make sure here is a picture of the throttle bodies i was connecting the sync tubes up to.
 
 
tb-left_zpsc9cb29b7.jpgtb-right_zps41f6b69b.jpg

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Guest Ralph
You had it connected in the right place, on mine a similar but much older
device it has restrictions in the vac lines to stop this but when I start
the bike I double the lines over and squeeze them to restrict it further
and let go one the bike settles down, oil would likely work as a fluid but
I have not tied it, seem to remember someone recommending automatic fluid.
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grahamfz07
Is there anything in the instructions about plugging the two extra ports on the sync tool when doing a twin? I'm assuming they use restrictors because there is not much tubing length there if sync is out a fair bit?
 
I just did a sync but I made a homemade manometer with tubing, and an oil catch can in case anything went bad.You might want to consider trying a homemade one before ordering more fluid.They are very cheap to make and I think are a little more forgiving if you have a decent length in tubing
 
 
 

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Guest Ralph
Looking at the add for it it in the questions and answers there is a post about restrictors..
It seems you should have some small brass restrictors that slide into the pipes, some come
ready fitted if you read the questions it may make sense as it talks of were to look for them
but I don't have that model so it may make sense to you.

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scordiaboy515
.....just an observation, why fix it if it ain't broke?
 

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rick
your are using the Motion Pro tool? The directions call for closing all of the calibration screws until lightly seated. Then, you hook up all 4 tubes thru the manifold to the "reference" TB. On the FZ, that's the one to the left. Then you back out screws one at a time until you can get a reading somewhere down near the bottom of the tubes and all the same.
 
After that procedure, you'll hook up 2 of the tubes to the hose nips on the throttle bodies. This should allow the bike to fire and not suck up the fluid
 
Here, the video version.
 
 

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dannyfz07
I bought the same tool. Didn't work for shit when I tried using it lol, if you followed the directions for the tool you should have calibrated it before using it. Every time I tried to calibrate it it would try to suck the fluid all the way through. I spent $100 bucks on the tool just to toss it to the side and make my own aha my advice is return the tool if you can and build your own. Once you do that you can sync your TBs.

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pj
I made my own manometer with fuel injector conditioner by Lucas oil, figure it c o more good than ba

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rick
I bought the same tool. Didn't work for Shet when I tried using it lol, if you followed the directions for the tool you should have calibrated it before using it. Every time I tried to calibrate it it would try to suck the fluid all the way through. I spent $100 bucks on the tool just to toss it to the side and make my own aha my advice is return the tool if you can and build your own. Once you do that you can sync your TBs.
I have a set of 4 vacuum gauges that, I dare say, are older than many of yunz guys.  
I'm surprised that you had such a bad experience. Motion Pro is usually good stuff. Even with those calibration screws limiting the pull, I suspect that with a twin, you must also have some kind of restriction/small orifice in the hoses to slow down the pulses. It slows down the response, but it's sorta necessary, imo.  
 
I spent money on a Carbmate years ago and continue going back to my old gauges.   

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love2gro
I bought the same tool. Didn't work for Shet when I tried using it lol, if you followed the directions for the tool you should have calibrated it before using it. Every time I tried to calibrate it it would try to suck the fluid all the way through. I spent $100 bucks on the tool just to toss it to the side and make my own aha my advice is return the tool if you can and build your own. Once you do that you can sync your TBs.
I have a set of 4 vacuum gauges that, I dare say, are older than many of yunz guys.  
I'm surprised that you had such a bad experience. Motion Pro is usually good stuff. Even with those calibration screws limiting the pull, I suspect that with a twin, you must also have some kind of restriction/small orifice in the hoses to slow down the pulses. It slows down the response, but it's sorta necessary, imo.  
 
I spent money on a Carbmate years ago and continue going back to my old gauges.   
 
Are you saying that I could just hook up 2 vacuum gauges and sync with them ?

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rick
I have a set of 4 vacuum gauges that, I dare say, are older than many of yunz guys.  
I'm surprised that you had such a bad experience. Motion Pro is usually good stuff. Even with those calibration screws limiting the pull, I suspect that with a twin, you must also have some kind of restriction/small orifice in the hoses to slow down the pulses. It slows down the response, but it's sorta necessary, imo.  
 
I spent money on a Carbmate years ago and continue going back to my old gauges.   
Are you saying that I could just hook up 2 vacuum gauges and sync with them ?
Absolutely. Why the heck not? Yer just reading manifold vacuum on both TBs. It's a relative number. What the actual torr/psi reading is is irrelevant. With one air screw closed, the other is opened or closed so the read vacuum is the same on both cylinders. It would be a bit more work, but you could do this with one gauge. Read the left side, then move the gauge to the right port and take a read. If the same, yer done. With the ECU controlling idle speed, the left won't likely change much, if any, if you have to make an adjustment. Move the gauge back to the left side to make sure it's still the same.  
Not much has changed in 40 years  http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=vacuum+gauge+carburetor&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=64633427604&hvpos=1s1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7156456894841650137&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_6snvkm66an_b
 
But both gauges must read the same or you'll need to know by how much they vary. Don't assume that new gauges are identical - check. All that's required to check this is a plastic T fitting that can be had at any parts store. Just hook up both gauges to one TB via the T. If one is a bit higher than the other, just take note of the difference and sync to that same delta. If they're perfect, great. My old set of 4 have 2 that are just about perfect. Those are the 2 I use, obviously. 
 
Again, you must use some sort of constriction in the tubing as the vacuum is not a smooth pull but pulses - and they're big pulses with every draw of air on the inlet stroke. W/o a small orifice inline with the tubing (we're talking about the size of an insulin syringe needle or maybe one gage larger), the gauges will swing wildly all over the place and it'll be impossible to take a reading. This is what's sucking those fluids from whatever tool. 
 
This was the beauty of the old mercury filled balance tubes. Mercury is quite heavy and damps out those swings just by its own density and heft. A 10cc bottle of mercury is surprising heavy.  Of course, we wouldn't want anyone being becoming mad as a hatter (just in case ya didn't know  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mad_as_a_hatter), so mercury is now mostly gone from everything. 
 
I suspect the store bought manometer types these days are using a fluid that's non-flammable and has a low vapor pressure so it doesn't evaporate. You really don't want a fluid that's volatile or will combust (like FI cleaner/conditioner, sorry) because vapors will be drawn into the motor and cause it to run a bit rich.
 
Oh, senior moment (maybe too much mercury, lol) . I misspoke above. I have the Carbtune, not Carbmate. The "tune" uses 4, spring loaded metal rods that fit sorta snug in glass tubes. The "mate" is an electronic unit that uses a null meter to balance the 2 cylinders.  

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fooschnickens
If only I could repurpose my synchrometer for doing this. Oh well, more tools makes me happy :3

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grahamfz07
If only I could repurpose my synchrometer for doing this. Oh well, more tools makes me happy :3
I always love an excuse to buy more tools too

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rick
If only I could repurpose my synchrometer for doing this. Oh well, more tools makes me happy :3
I always love an excuse to buy more tools too
I've gotten to the point where I don't seem to need an excuse. 
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patrick
I have an old tool called "carbsticks' that i bought years ago. I think this would work. The thing is filledwith mercury! any thoughts?

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rowdy
I always love an excuse to buy more tools too
I've gotten to the point where I don't seem to need an excuse. 
It's gotten ridiculous for me.  I'm old enough that I ain't gettin' better at anything (except buying stuff). But if you buy tools, well, you something in your hand while you grunt and swear, and that's a beer, and maybe in the other hand is your cool new tool. :)
 

Why can't left turners see us?

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hippiebikerchick

 
I understand. LOL
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Illegitimi non carborundum

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thomascrown
You guys need to look at carbtune. No fluids. Works perfect.
 

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ornery
Anyone use a meter like this?
 
Rise HT-1890 Professional Digital Air Pressure Meter & Manometer
 
61V7QalIGtL._SL1000_.jpg
 
I do like the idea of using cheap tubing and various fluids, but this looks pretty fool proof and very accurate.
 

“The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.”
— Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values)

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fflier9
that probably would work really well for a twin, because it's capable of differential readings, like a voltmeter, you'd you'd obviously just zero the difference with the right throttle body.  Not sure how you'd use it one something with more than 2 throttle bodies though.
But how in the world would you check its accuracy? At least with the manometers, you have physics on your side.
 

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ornery
If you T off a single vacuum source to each inlet, it should read zero. I was looking for simple vacuum gages, which are about $25.00 each. I notice the vacuum gage sets for twins are about $50.00 and quads are $75-$100 and more. So, to get a functional digital gage for only$40.00 sounds pretty reasonable. 
 
[video src=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poOLTKcOV2s]
 

“The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.”
— Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values)

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fflier9
I really love her hair.
 
I guess for $50 it's worth it to have a digital readout...

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bmwpowere36m3
You have to read the specs on those digital manometers… some can only read as high as 2 psi or 103 mmHG, any higher and it won't read or can damage the device. I'd also bet that the "readout" will be difficult due to engine pulses.

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ornery
That's how I stumbled onto it in the first place. I was looking for the vacuum PSI of these bikes. I was just going to buy a couple vacuum gages, but didn't know what range to buy. I assume 15PSI is adequate, but would like to know for sure before buying.
 
I think I could get by with the cheap manometer. As long as the difference is less than a couple PSI it should be OK. Obviously the gal in the video has used that specific one successfully in the past.
 
Hell, I may just buy some damn tubing and see what I can do with that first!

“The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.”
— Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values)

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