Premium Member ericpev Posted February 25, 2015 Author Premium Member Share Posted February 25, 2015 Physically, the engagement point/friction zone/etc. is at the same point . The adjustability of an aftermarket allows the lever to be set closer to the bar meaning less "extra" pull after that point has been reached. Essentially the lever reaches the bar sooner and "all the way in" is less "all the way in" than before while still disengaging the clutch fully. Am I correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Well, if you limit the lever's travel, you'll also limit how far the clutch pack is pushed open. If the shifts are clean and neutral is found easily, then all's well. FieldMP is actually recommending a truncated pull on the lever, so clearly the clutch is opening enough. At 5'5", my hands aren't exactly huge, so I understand the desire to get the lever in closer. I put an aftermarket slave cylinder on my Aprilia that lessons lever pull (sheesh, the OE's was stiff and a notorious leaker) by being a bigger diameter than OE. Only so much fluid gets pushed with ever pull of the hand lever, so the result is a shorter throw at the clutch as the fluid has more space to fill in the slave cyl. To get decent shifts, I had to learn to use that bike's adjustable lever in the "big hands" position (allowing a longer pull before the lever hits the bar). Took a while to get used to, but the result is the FZ's lever feeling just fine as it was set up. I sorta got the feeling you guys were also looking at trying to change not only the engagement point, but the progression of the clutch's action. That's not so easy to change with a cable driven clutch. Party on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member rowdy Posted February 25, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted February 25, 2015 Physically, the engagement point/friction zone/etc. is at the same point . The adjustability of an aftermarket allows the lever to be set closer to the bar meaning less "extra" pull after that point has been reached. Essentially the lever reaches the bar sooner and "all the way in" is less "all the way in" than before while still disengaging the clutch fully. Am I correct?That's the way it seems to work for me. I shifts flawlessly, but you don't have that huge "do nothing" zone after then clutch is disengaged. Why can't left turners see us? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMCFieldMP Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Yeah, that might be the difference between us, as well. I'm 6'1" with long fingers, so the stock clutch positioning is much easier for me to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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