isaac Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 I read somewhere that the oil they ship new bikes is thinner or something to help with the engine break-in. I'm thinking of doing an early change at ~200 miles and was wondering is oil recommendation is different during break-in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 My salesman said the FZ-07 does not use break in oil. Don't know if he knew what he was talking about or not. I did notice a significant increase in fuel mileage after the initial oil change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member hobbs Posted January 10, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted January 10, 2015 The oil in it is indeed designed to be used for the first 600 miles as per the recommended maintenance. Some people did it earlier than that. Does it matter? To my knowledge, marginally at best. I left it, then used synthetic. Everything went braap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YZEtc Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Ten to fifteen years ago, I read an article where a Yamaha technical big wig said the engine oil shipped in new Yamaha motorcycles is a run-of-the-mill petroleum-based 10W40. Nothing special for break-in or anything like that. By comparison, Honda motorcycles are shipped without any oil in the engine at all, except for whatever small amount is left in the engine after draining it of the oil while still at the factory. So, in this case, what the guy at the dealer pours in while firing-up your new Honda becomes your break-in oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ralph Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Keep to the book they built the thing and sure don't want it back under grantee only thing I would do at the first service is put a magnetic sump plug in, you will be surprised how much it collects in the early life of the engine and wile the normal filter will take much of it out it still as to go through the oil pump first a magnetic plug stops this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gremlin Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 I know this is an old thread and a very touchy topic. I have exactly 150 miles on my bike doing a fairly moderate to heavy break in and want to change the oil, but my dealer no longer carries yamalube. Wtf?! I have 4 qrts. Of Mobil 1 4t that I'm wondering if I should just use it. I plan on doing another oil change in another 150 miles or so.... I know this is very controversial and have heard many different things. I know the price comparison also, just wondering what Your thoughts are? Honda Grom CB 350 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ornery Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 Hah! There is no consensus on this issue. I'll recount my personal experience, and you can use it to make a decision. I went by the book, and kept RPMs low. At the end of 600 miles, I used Shell Rotella (550019921) T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic, as well as magnetic oil plug. At about 1,500 miles I started to smell burning oil intermittently, and found it had burned 1/2 quart since the change. After hearing 101 opinions about how to handle it, I went with the advice to run it harder. During the rides after making that decision, I realized I was shifting into fifth gear frequently, though I never was on the freeway, even as slow as 35MPH! I think that's what caused the initial lack of break in. If I had it to do over, I'd still go with the Owner's Manual recommendation for keeping the RPMs down, but not as low as I routinely ran it. I don't see how putting clean oil in earlier would hurt anything. A nice clean filter and magnetic plug could only help, so IMO, go for it! Edit: Might want to make sure whatever you use is JASO MA2 certified. Probably for wet clutch concerns. “The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.” — Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twotone Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 Use dinosaur oil till the first service, fresh oil is good but m1 is too good for now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gremlin Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 Use dinosaur oil till the first service, fresh oil is good but m1 is too good for now What Dino oil do you recommend, cause our Only stealership on island stopped carrying YamaLube......:/ Honda Grom CB 350 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twotone Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 Mate I'm in Australia I don't know what you have local to you But can you find motul, silkolene, motorex, castrol 4T? Just hold off on full synth, and work the engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator mjh937 Posted September 21, 2015 Global Moderator Share Posted September 21, 2015 Any oil that meets the spec called for in the manual will be fine (JASO or whatever it says, I do not have my manual here to check). I switched to Mobil 1 at 2,00 miles and have not had any problems. I did a fairly hard break in too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member forcefed86 Posted September 21, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted September 21, 2015 Hah! There is no consensus on this issue. I'll recount my personal experience, and you can use it to make a decision. I went by the book, and kept RPMs low. At the end of 600 miles, I used Shell Rotella (550019921) T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic, as well as magnetic oil plug. At about 1,500 miles I started to smell burning oil intermittently, and found it had burned 1/2 quart since the change. After hearing 101 opinions about how to handle it, I went with the advice to run it harder. During the rides after making that decision, I realized I was shifting into fifth gear frequently, though I never was on the freeway, even as slow as 35MPH! I think that's what caused the initial lack of break in. If I had it to do over, I'd still go with the Owner's Manual recommendation for keeping the RPMs down, but not as low as I routinely ran it. I don't see how putting clean oil in earlier would hurt anything. A nice clean filter and magnetic plug could only help, so IMO, go for it! Edit: Might want to make sure whatever you use is JASO MA2 certified. Probably for wet clutch concerns. did you buy the magnetic drain plug at the dealer or where did you get it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ornery Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 Ebay, Advance Auto Parts... I used a fiber washer, but it's supposed to use a metal crush washer. Haven't decided where to get those yet. “The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.” — Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aeisan Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 You can buy the crush washers at your local Yamaha dealer for a few bucks. I think I paid about $3.50 or so each. I can get a part # when I get home for you. Might be able to find them online, etc. Life is good on 2 wheels! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isaac Posted September 21, 2015 Author Share Posted September 21, 2015 Crush washer: Gasket 214-11198-01-00http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/53a99afef8700220a4415801/oil-cleanerhttp://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-214-11198-01-00-YG9-00027-26-2G-341-15353-00-00-214-11198-00-00/dp/B005C5AMMOhttp://www.partspak.com/productcart/pc/Yamaha-214-11198-01-00-Gasket-214111980100-p141681.htmhttp://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-214-11198-01-00.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aeisan Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 That's the one! Life is good on 2 wheels! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ornery Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 Thanks Isaac, I can live with a few of those prices. “The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.” — Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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