Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
isaac

Break-in oil?

Recommended Posts

isaac
I read somewhere that the oil they ship new bikes is thinner or something to help with the engine break-in. I'm thinking of doing an early change at ~200 miles and was wondering is oil recommendation is different during break-in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mark
My salesman said the FZ-07 does not use break in oil. Don't know if he knew what he was talking about or not. I did notice a significant increase in fuel mileage after the initial oil change.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hobbs
The oil in it is indeed designed to be used for the first 600 miles as per the recommended maintenance.
 
Some people did it earlier than that. Does it matter? To my knowledge, marginally at best.
 
I left it, then used synthetic.
 

Everything went braap.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
YZEtc
Ten to fifteen years ago, I read an article where a Yamaha technical big wig said the engine oil shipped in new Yamaha motorcycles is a run-of-the-mill petroleum-based 10W40.
Nothing special for break-in or anything like that.
 
By comparison, Honda motorcycles are shipped without any oil in the engine at all, except for whatever small amount is left in the engine after draining it of the oil while still at the factory.
So, in this case, what the guy at the dealer pours in while firing-up your new Honda becomes your break-in oil.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Ralph
Keep to the book they built the thing and sure don't want it back under grantee
only thing I would do at the first service is put a magnetic sump plug in, you
will be surprised how much it collects in the early life of the engine and wile
the normal filter will take much of it out it still as to go through the oil
pump first a magnetic plug stops this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
gremlin
I know this is an old thread and a very touchy topic. I have exactly 150 miles on my bike doing a fairly moderate to heavy break in and want to change the oil, but my dealer no longer carries yamalube. Wtf?! I have 4 qrts. Of Mobil 1 4t that I'm wondering if I should just use it. I plan on doing another oil change in another 150 miles or so.... I know this is very controversial and have heard many different things. I know the price comparison also, just wondering what
Your thoughts are?
 
 

Honda Grom
CB 350

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ornery
Hah! There is no consensus on this issue. I'll recount my personal experience, and you can use it to make a decision.
 
I went by the book, and kept RPMs low. At the end of 600 miles, I used Shell Rotella (550019921) T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic, as well as magnetic oil plug. At about 1,500 miles I started to smell burning oil intermittently, and found it had burned 1/2 quart since the change. After hearing 101 opinions about how to handle it, I went with the advice to run it harder. During the rides after making that decision, I realized I was shifting into fifth gear frequently, though I never was on the freeway, even as slow as 35MPH! I think that's what caused the initial lack of break in.
 
If I had it to do over, I'd still go with the Owner's Manual recommendation for keeping the RPMs down, but not as low as I routinely ran it.
 
I don't see how putting clean oil in earlier would hurt anything. A nice clean filter and magnetic plug could only help, so IMO, go for it!
 
Edit:  Might want to make sure whatever you use is JASO MA2 certified.  Probably for wet clutch concerns.
 

“The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.”
— Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
twotone
Use dinosaur oil till the first service, fresh oil is good but m1 is too good for now

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
gremlin
Use dinosaur oil till the first service, fresh oil is good but m1 is too good for now
 
 
What Dino oil do you recommend, cause our
Only stealership on island stopped carrying YamaLube......:/

Honda Grom
CB 350

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
twotone
Mate I'm in Australia
I don't know what you have local to you
 
But can you find motul, silkolene, motorex, castrol 4T?
Just hold off on full synth, and work the engine

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mjh937
Any oil that meets the spec called for in the manual will be fine (JASO or whatever it says, I do not have my manual here to check). I switched to Mobil 1 at 2,00 miles and have not had any problems. I did a fairly hard break in too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
forcefed86
Hah! There is no consensus on this issue. I'll recount my personal experience, and you can use it to make a decision.  
I went by the book, and kept RPMs low. At the end of 600 miles, I used Shell Rotella (550019921) T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic, as well as magnetic oil plug. At about 1,500 miles I started to smell burning oil intermittently, and found it had burned 1/2 quart since the change. After hearing 101 opinions about how to handle it, I went with the advice to run it harder. During the rides after making that decision, I realized I was shifting into fifth gear frequently, though I never was on the freeway, even as slow as 35MPH! I think that's what caused the initial lack of break in.
 
If I had it to do over, I'd still go with the Owner's Manual recommendation for keeping the RPMs down, but not as low as I routinely ran it.
 
I don't see how putting clean oil in earlier would hurt anything. A nice clean filter and magnetic plug could only help, so IMO, go for it!
 
Edit:  Might want to make sure whatever you use is JASO MA2 certified.  Probably for wet clutch concerns.
 
 
did you buy the magnetic drain plug at the dealer or where did you get it?  
 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ornery
Ebay, Advance Auto Parts...  I used a fiber washer, but it's supposed to use a metal crush washer.  Haven't decided where to get those yet.
 

“The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.”
— Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
aeisan
You can buy the crush washers at your local Yamaha dealer for a few bucks. I think I paid about $3.50 or so each.
 
I can get a part # when I get home for you. Might be able to find them online, etc.

Life is good on 2 wheels!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
isaac
ornery
Thanks Isaac, I can live with a few of those prices.  th?&id=OIP.M19d6597e58efa57154a1c88971455167o0&w=300&h=300&c=0&pid=1.9&rs=0&p=0
 

“The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.”
— Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  


×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.