Erci Posted July 20 Share Posted July 20 I put as much slack into the cable as possible, both at the inline adjuster and at the throttle body. It's still not nearly loose enough with R6 tube. There's so much tension on both cables, the grip will not turn freely and will not return to the closed position. Any ideas how to get this resolved? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetscience Posted July 21 Share Posted July 21 What year R6 is that throttle for? I 've never done this mod, but if IIRC, you need the specific year/gen R6 throttle. I dunno which one though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logank Posted July 21 Share Posted July 21 not sure which one you bought but i got this one and love it and had no issues besides some simple adjustments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cjanssen83 Posted July 21 Share Posted July 21 I had the same issue and it just took a lot of playing around…f@#ked around with the bottom adjuster then tried top and eventually that remedied things. I wish I actually had a definitive answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator mjh937 Posted July 21 Global Moderator Share Posted July 21 I was able to get enough slack using the adjuster near the throttle. I did not need to touch the lower one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erci Posted July 21 Author Share Posted July 21 13 hours ago, logank said: not sure which one you bought but i got this one and love it and had no issues besides some simple adjustments. Seems you liked to this thread instead of throttle tube .. I got this one: Amazon.com: Yamaha 2C0262400000 Grip Assembly : Automotive That's the part number I found on this forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erci Posted July 22 Author Share Posted July 22 Solved it. My cables were definitely too short and I did not want to bend/grind anything, so I ended up moving the retention nut on the accelerator cable down below the throttle body bracket. This gave me just enough slack to have the throttle move freely and have a tiny bit of play in it. I did also replace the return spring with an easier pull one. I had tendonitis (tennis elbow) for 18 months.. don't want it coming back! With softer spring the effort is about the same as with the stock tube.. maybe even a bit lighter. Took it out for a spin.. love it! Bike should've come from the factory like this. I'm gonna say free 15hp! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomlichu Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 Is there more tension when opening up the throttle? My friend did something similar to his GSXR 600 and he says it takes more force to open up the throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetscience Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 (edited) Yes, there will be more tension with the R6 throttle. Hence, softer return springs are sold by Spears Racing, Norton Motorsports, etc. Edited July 22 by sweetscience 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erci Posted July 23 Author Share Posted July 23 13 hours ago, sweetscience said: Yes, there will be more tension with the R6 throttle. Hence, softer return springs are sold by Spears Racing, Norton Motorsports, etc. Yup. It's unfortunate that the spring costs twice as much as the throttle assembly ($40), but for me it's worth it. I got the one from Spears. Yamaha FZ/MT/R7 Lightweight Throttle body Pull/Return Spring (spearsenterprises.com) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoze Posted July 27 Share Posted July 27 Jumping in late but I had the same issue you did once I figured the out all went smoothly and I now have plenty of adjustment up top. One thing I wish I would have done first was lubricate my cables while I had them off. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erci Posted July 27 Author Share Posted July 27 7 hours ago, Hoze said: Jumping in late but I had the same issue you did once I figured the out all went smoothly and I now have plenty of adjustment up top. One thing I wish I would have done first was lubricate my cables while I had them off. Interesting! I still have no adjustment.. meaning with adjuster at the lever turned all the way together and retaining nuts sitting below the plate at the TB, there's just enough slack for it to be safe, but that's all that's needed. It's perfect and an awesome mod! Cable lube is a controversial topic! I've had bad luck with lubing cables. Lube attracts dust/dirt. Over time things gunk up and there's no getting cables back at that point. I've chosen to just keep mine clean and rust free. I've done this on all my bikes for the past ~10 years (after being disappointed in lube-cables approach) and have not had a single issue or poorly performing cable. YMMV! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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