Mattt Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 I got asv shorty levers and when I put them on no matter how I adjusted the cable it did not disengage the clutch. Or it ended up being way too tight and did not have any play in the lever. Im not sure if the cable or the arm for the clutch was able to move once i removed the cable from the lever I don’t know what’s going on here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetscience Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 Hey Matt, I got the ASV clutch lever (C5) also, but in stock length. Helps in lesser hand fatigue. If you look closely at the clutch arm you will see a punch mark. And the clutch cover has a small raised triangle mark. Two things occur when the clutch is fully engaged: 1. these two markings should be vertically aligned, 2. The clutch arm should sit roughly 90 degrees (perpendicular) to the mating surface of the cover or engine. From there you can set fine slack adjustments at the handlebar. If needed, the adjuster at the clutch cover is for making larger slack adjustments. Remember to account for handlebar turn lock to lock when adjusting slack. Personally, I like my clutch friction point furthest away from the handlebar, so I run close to zero slack. Or .5 mm. I think it helps in quicker shifting. For fun, prop the bike on a rear paddock stand and run the bike in gear, testing the clutch and friction point. You can observe when the clutch engages/disengages. Err, do this only if you're a seasoned biker, and not a noob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattt Posted July 6 Author Share Posted July 6 9 minutes ago, sweetscience said: Hey Matt, I got the ASV clutch lever (C5) also, but in stock length. Helps in lesser hand fatigue. If you look closely at the clutch arm you will see a punch mark. And the clutch cover has a small raised triangle mark. Two things occur when the clutch is fully engaged: 1. these two markings should be vertically aligned, 2. The clutch arm should sit roughly 90 degrees (perpendicular) to the mating surface of the cover or engine. From there you can set fine slack adjustments at the handlebar. If needed, the adjuster at the clutch cover is for making larger slack adjustments. Remember to account for handlebar turn lock to lock when adjusting slack. Personally, I like my clutch friction point furthest away from the handlebar, so I run close to zero slack. Or .5 mm. I think it helps in quicker shifting. For fun, prop the bike on a rear paddock stand and run the bike in gear, testing the clutch and friction point. You can observe when the clutch engages/disengages. Err, do this only if you're a seasoned biker, and not a noob. When you say “Two things occur when the clutch is fully engaged” do you mean when the lever is pulled or when it’s out, engaged and disengaged always throws me off. But when it’s just sitting there and the lever is not pulled the triangle and the punch mark are aligned is this correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetscience Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 Forgot to mention, please mind the little clutch switch at the handlebar. You don't want to break it when installing the lever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetscience Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 Yes, the clutch is fully engaged (married) when the lever is not pulled or just sitting there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattt Posted July 6 Author Share Posted July 6 (edited) 9 minutes ago, sweetscience said: Yes, the clutch is fully engaged (married) when the lever is not pulled or just sitting there. So if the arm is sitting properly why wouldnt the clutch disengage? Could something have happened inside the clutch case? The best I can get when I put it in first and try to roll it is it will slip when it’s fully squeezed. Edited July 6 by Mattt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetscience Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 Yes that the picture is correct. Now turn the handlebar adjuster knob clockwise (CW) or away from the bike to give it slack. Then turn turn it counter-clockwise (CCW) to tighten or reduce slack. As you do so continually and repeatedly pull the clutch lever ever so slightly, as in feather touch to feel for onset of slack. Keep checking the alignment of the two marks for movement as you make the adjustment. It takes a feather touch and feel to determine when the onset of slack presents itself. So play with the lever until there is a slight give or reduction in resistance, without having the two marks move out of alignment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetscience Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 (edited) If the clutch is not disengaging, or is slipping when fully squeezed, then there is too much cable slack. Or the lever is positioned too close to the handlebar grip to prevent any further squeeze movement to fully disengage the clutch. Adjust the clicker on the ASV to give more lever sweep. Or worst case, the ASV is wrong model for the bike. On the other end of the spectrum, adjusting the clutch cable too tight, eliminating slack and then some completely, can and will prevent the clutch from fully engaging with the transmission. This leads to clutch slipping and accelerated clutch pack wear. Edited July 6 by sweetscience additional info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattt Posted July 6 Author Share Posted July 6 21 minutes ago, sweetscience said: If the clutch is not disengaging, or is slipping when fully squeezed, then there is too much cable slack. Or the lever is positioned too close to the handlebar grip to prevent any further squeeze movement to fully disengage the clutch. Adjust the clicker on the ASV to give more lever sweep. Or worst case, the ASV is wrong model for the bike. Well that’s why I’m so confused there was virtually no cable slack and it would still remain engaged. That was why I was wondering if the clutch arm could have gotten pulled back to far when I removed the lever. Therefore messing with something in the clutch casing itself. I’m not sure I can’t find anything on this anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetscience Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 (edited) That clutch arm shaft has teethed pinions, so it will pull back as far as it will mechanically go. Which is limited by the number of pinions on the clutch pull rod. The visible spring on the clutch arm shaft gives the primary tension on the handlebar clutch lever and in keeping the two marks aligned. Also helps in clutch slack adjustment. The manual states a free play slack of 5-10 mm to play it safe. It takes a feather touch to differentiate the tension from the spring on the clutch arm shaft versus the onset of the 6 springs at the clutch pack. When squeezing the clutch lever, the change in increased spring tension is very subtle. Bottom line is, as long as the bike is shifting properly, and not slipping, it don't really matter how much slack you got. Edited July 6 by sweetscience Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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