Recommended 2020 Mt-07 Performance Mods

[nooby-jim 0]

I'm just about to purchase a 2020 Mt-07. I've done some research on performance mods but I figured that you guys would be the best to ask! If you could recommend what mods and why, I would really appreciate it! 

The bike is pretty much stock just for reference.

[Triple Jim 490]

Welcome to the board, Jim!

No mods here.  I really like the MPG and quiet of the stock bike.

[wollerms 33]

First mod, I did was to pitch the stock handlebars into the woods and install wider lower  bar (Renthal) with adjustable levers (CRG). Why, because first thing I do with a new bike is make it comfortable to me. Then I upgraded the suspension, Nitron R1 rear shock and RaceTech springs and Gold valves, but there are many options on this. Why, suspension set-up now to my weight and I got the money so why not? Next, take the stinkin microwave oven (cat convertor) and all the stock exhaust off and mail it to AOC so she stick it up her $#%, then install full race exhaust and have the ECU reflashed. Why because it runs way better and polutes the air more. 

Edited November 7, 2022 by wollerms
spelling

[FZ not MT 84]

Just now, wollerms said:

Next, take the stinkin microwave oven (cat convertor) and all the stock exhaust off and mail it to AOC so she stick it up her $#%

Timely and hilarious 

Ditto the ECU flash and at the same time change your throttle sleeve. Seeing you said "performance", I would also change the rear sprocket from the stock 43 tooth to a 44 tooth. That one tooth made an unbelievable difference. The combo of the flash, throttle tube and slightly bigger sprocket will make your bike a LOT more fun to ride.  

Amazon.com

 

 

[cornerslider 794]

It's hard to recommend, when I don't know what your intended use is? I'll tell you what I did, and why. My 2016 FZ-07 was a street bike for several years. Now it is my dedicated race bike. I will list my recommendations in the order I feel they are most important:

1) Get the ECU flashed by 2WDW (They are a site sponsor of this site). The bike will do everything better, even without intake/exhaust mods. They can remove as much of the engine braking possible, and improve the entire riding experience. I've gone through "Nels" @ 2WDW on (4) of my bikes. They can tune it to your liking, and if you add exhaust/intake mods to your bike, they will "re-flash" to accommodate your changes (for FREE). They usually run a Black-Friday special for like $249

2) TIRES!!!! I don't know what tires are on your bike? The OEM sport-touring tires are good for commuting/highway use. They wear well, but are a pretty hard rubber compound. If the current tires are needing replacement, I'd recommend the Dunlop Q3+. They are a dual compound tire- meaning the center of the tire is a harder compound (for long life), and a softer compound on the sides- (for cornering). I've used them for track-days in the past, and they the best bang-for-the-buck tire (in my opinion). You can usually pick up a set for about $350.

3) Suspension- I've wasted a lot of money on PREMIUM suspension in the past . Contrary to what most people think, you most likely do NOT need every adjustment available (unless you are racing at the pro level). Most people don't know how to set-up a suspension properly (myself included) ... My "race" FZ-07 has the suspension that most street riders chose. My lap times are within a second or two of the folks that $pent 2-3 times what I did. 

-In the front: I recommend the "Traction Dynamics AR-25 kit". This gets you to 95% of what a "full cartridge kit" will get you- at half the cost... You fill out a form, and explain your riding style, and your weight, and they handle the rest!!! Everything comes on one complete kit- (oil, proper fork springs, and the proper valving in the action-rod), you drop it in, and go!!! My personal opinion is- this the best option for a budget bike like the FZ/MT-07. The kit runs about $400-

-In the rear: I'd go with the K-Tech "Lite". It's their "entry level" rear shock. I personally run the K-tech Razor "R" on my 07. It has the remote reservoir, and much more adjustment options. That being said, I run the K-Tech "lite" on my street R3. Once I got it set up to my liking, it felt nearly the same as my Razor "R" on my "07". You can pick up a new K-Tech "Lite" for about $495 (set-up for your weight).

4) Exhaust & Intake: This where most folks start .... I personally disagree with this approach. Most motorcycle enthusiasts do NOT want their bike to sound like sewing machine  (myself included). Yeah, you can toss a full exhaust system on most bikes, and the EFI system can most likely compensate for it. With that, you most likely won't be gaining anything (and may actually LOSE HP/performance). This gives the rider the "illusion" of HP, since it sounds cool.... Intake & Exhaust go hand-in-hand. Do both at the same time, or don't do it at all....

Exhaust: I personally chose the Akrapovic Ti exhaust. It's pretty quiet with the insert in (compared to it competitors). You can remove the insert for more "bark" if you like. It carries a price tag of about $1K.... I agonized over this, as I didn't want the spend that kind of money. I justified the purchase, as the ENTIRE system is underneath the motor (no side pipe). One right hand "drop" in a parking lot will wreck every other exhaust system.  My advise, is spend the money, and smile .

Intake: The "Hordpower" intake system is the BEST $300 I've ever spent!!! You get a totally new intake system (2WDW can tune it to match ANY exhaust system). This will take your "07" from not making power after 8K, rpm,  to pulling HARD all the way to redline!!! 

As stated earlier, the exhaust/intake mods should be the LAST mods to make (in my opinion).  All of the above mentioned items should be done BEFORE intake/exhaust. As much as I hate to acknowledge it, the FZ/MT-07 was built to a price-point... The stock motor is plenty for most folks. The chassis is the weakest-link on this bike for most riders.

The above post is based ONLY on opinions (mine). I'm not an expert, but I wanted to share my experiences with others. Hopefully my experiences can save others the costly mistakes I've made over the last 40+ years 

Sorry for the "Novel", but the question WAS asked -

[tomlichu 18]

Just now, cornerslider said:

-In the front: I recommend the "Traction Dynamics AR-25 kit". This gets you to 95% of what a "full cartridge kit" will get you- at half the cost... You fill out a form, and explain your riding style, and your weight, and they handle the rest!!! Everything comes on one complete kit- (oil, proper fork springs, and the proper valving in the action-rod), you drop it in, and go!!! My personal opinion is- this the best option for a budget bike like the FZ/MT-07. The kit runs about $400-

-In the rear: I'd go with the K-Tech "Lite". It's their "entry level" rear shock. I personally run the K-tech Razor "R" on my 07. It has the remote reservoir, and much more adjustment options. That being said, I run the K-Tech "lite" on my street R3. Once I got it set up to my liking, it felt nearly the same as my did on my Razor "R" on my "07". You can pick up a new K-Tech "Lite" for about $495 (set-up for your weight).

These are great suggestions. Just wanted to update a few things. The AR-25 kit is now $500. For the supsension, you can contact the supporting vendor, Paul from Bellisimoto for quotes on the k-tech lites.

I agree on the exhaust mod. If you decide to do the exhaust mod, do it with the ECU flash. 2wDW has different profiles for different exhaust systems (full system, slip-ons, etc).

[Devilman 77]

Just now, cornerslider said:

It's hard to recommend, when I don't know what your intended use is? I'll tell you what I did, and why. My 2016 FZ-07 was a street bike for several years. Now it is my dedicated race bike. I will list my recommendations in the order I feel they are most important:

1) Get the ECU flashed by 2WDW (They are a site sponsor of this site). The bike will do everything better, even without intake/exhaust mods. They can remove as much of the engine braking possible, and improve the entire riding experience. I've gone through "Nels" @ 2WDW on (4) of my bikes. They can tune it to your liking, and if you add exhaust/intake mods to your bike, they will "re-flash" to accommodate your changes (for FREE). They usually run a Black-Friday special for like $249

2) TIRES!!!! I don't know what tires are on your bike? The OEM sport-touring tires are good for commuting/highway use. They wear well, but are a pretty hard rubber compound. If the current tires are needing replacement, I'd recommend the Dunlop Q3+. They are a dual compound tire- meaning the center of the tire is a harder compound (for long life), and a softer compound on the sides- (for cornering). I've used them for track-days in the past, and they the best bang-for-the-buck tire (in my opinion). You can usually pick up a set for about $350.

3) Suspension- I've wasted a lot of money on PREMIUM suspension in the past ">. Contrary to what most people think, you most likely do NOT need every adjustment available (unless you are racing at the pro level). Most people don't know how to set-up a suspension properly (myself included) ">... My "race" FZ-07 has the suspension that most street riders chose. My lap times are within a second or two of the folks that $pent 2-3 times what I did. 

-In the front: I recommend the "Traction Dynamics AR-25 kit". This gets you to 95% of what a "full cartridge kit" will get you- at half the cost... You fill out a form, and explain your riding style, and your weight, and they handle the rest!!! Everything comes on one complete kit- (oil, proper fork springs, and the proper valving in the action-rod), you drop it in, and go!!! My personal opinion is- this the best option for a budget bike like the FZ/MT-07. The kit runs about $400-

-In the rear: I'd go with the K-Tech "Lite". It's their "entry level" rear shock. I personally run the K-tech Razor "R" on my 07. It has the remote reservoir, and much more adjustment options. That being said, I run the K-Tech "lite" on my street R3. Once I got it set up to my liking, it felt nearly the same as my did on my Razor "R" on my "07". You can pick up a new K-Tech "Lite" for about $495 (set-up for your weight).

4) Exhaust & Intake: This where most folks start ">.... I personally disagree with this approach. Most motorcycle enthusiasts do NOT want their bike to sound like sewing machine "> (myself included). Yeah, you can toss a full exhaust system on most bikes, and the EFI system can most likely compensate for it. With that, you most likely won't be gaining anything (and may actually LOSE HP/performance). This gives the rider the iIllusion" of HP, since it sounds cool.... Intake & Exhaust go hand-in-hand. Do both at the same time, or don't do it at all....

Exhaust: I personally chose the Akrapovic Ti exhaust. It's pretty quiet with the insert in (compared to it competitors). You can remove the insert for more "bark" if you like. It carries a price tag of about $1K.... I agonized over this, as I didn't want the spend that kind of money. I justified the purchase, as the ENTIRE system is underneath the motor (no side pipe). One right hand "drop" in a parking lot will wreck every other exhaust system.  My advise, is spend the money, and smile ">.

Intake: The "Hordpower" intake system is the BEST $300 I've ever spent!!! You get a totally new intake system (2WDW can tune it to match ANY exhaust system). This will prevent your "07" from not making power after 8K, rpm,  to pulling HARD all the way to redline!!! 

As stated earlier, the exhaust/intake mods should be the LAST mods to make (in my opinion).  All of the above mentioned items should be done BEFORE intake/exhaust. As much as I hate to acknowledge it, the FZ/MT-07 was built to a price-point... The stock motor is plenty for most folks. The chassis is the weakest-link on this bike for most riders.

The above post is based ONLY on opinions (mine). I'm not an expert, but I wanted to share my experiences with others. Hopefully my experiences can save others the costly mistakes I've made over the last 40+ years ">

Sorry for the "Novel", but the question WAS asked ">-

I like to get a Hordpower but you have to remove the exhaust baffle to get the benefits. Can’t do that, I have a Akrapovic ti and it is stupid loud without the baffle. I changed to the MT09 baffle and now it sounds great.

[00RAH 82]

@wollermsTheres 2 L's in pollutes

Edited November 7, 2022 by 00RAH

[M. Hausknecht 361]

Just now, Devilman said:

I like to get a Hordpower but you have to remove the exhaust baffle to get the benefits. Can’t do that, I have a Akrapovic ti and it is stupid loud without the baffle. I changed to the MT09 baffle and now it sounds great.

Not sure where you got the idea that there is no performance benefit with the Hordpower airbox with a baffle in your exhaust, but it isn't so. The bike is louder with the Hordpower airbox, which might bother you, but it improves volumetric efficiency even with the stock exhaust.    

[balkor2 55]

Just now, M. Hausknecht said:

Not sure where you got the idea that there is no performance benefit with the Hordpower airbox with a baffle in your exhaust, but it isn't so. The bike is louder with the Hordpower airbox, which might bother you, but it improves volumetric efficiency even with the stock exhaust.    

Since I have taken ownership of my MT-07, I have had more people asking me when I am dumping my stock exhaust, when I am removing the snorkel, when am I going to tune it .. etc etc.

 

[DewMan 1,917]

Just now, M. Hausknecht said:

Not sure where you got the idea that there is no performance benefit with the Hordpower airbox with a baffle in your exhaust, but it isn't so. The bike is louder with the Hordpower airbox, which might bother you, but it improves volumetric efficiency even with the stock exhaust.    

Like @M. Hausknecht said. There's no reason to remove the baffle from the Akra Ti exhaust. I have both and it runs great. If you ask The Hordpower folks, they'll tell you the same. It's what they told me.

[FZ not MT 84]

Just now, balkor2 said:

Since I have taken ownership of my MT-07, I have had more people asking me when I am dumping my stock exhaust, when I am removing the snorkel, when am I going to tune it .. etc etc.

While most will disagree with me, there are definitely some folks on this forum who feel the same way - I totally prefer running the stock exhaust. The main reason is that I prefer the more stealth mode the quieter exhaust gives you. Plus, I do long distance rides on a semi-regular basis (500+/day) which means I prefer to keep my hearing by running my stock exhaust. Anyway you cut it, the louder exhausts aren't great for your hearing, and before anyone mentions it - I hate riding with earplugs!

 

[balkor2 55]

At this moment in time...
I see no reason, purpose, or function to modify that

[Pursuvant 446]

Just now, FZ not MT said:

...Anyway you cut it, the louder exhausts aren't great for your hearing

 

Ehh, er what's that you say there son-ny? Can't hear ya

[wollerms 33]

Just now, DewMan said:

Like @M. Hausknecht said. There's no reason to remove the baffle from the Akra Ti exhaust. I have both and it runs great. If you ask The Hordpower folks, they'll tell you the same. It's what they told me.

My baffle is also still in my Akra and I had 2WDW do the reflash. Another cheap mod I did since it's normally hot and humid here in Tn. in the summer is to add a seat pad that actually lets air flow to my ass. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Motoforti-Motorcycle-Breathable-Motorbike-Protector/dp/B09M6ZDV3Y/ref=sr_1_8?crid=30BCYBB40N2GI&keywords=ventilated+motorcycle+seat+pad&qid=1667858989&sprefix=ventilated+motorcycle+seat+pad%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-8

[cornerslider 794]

8 hours ago, Devilman said:

I like to get a Hordpower but you have to remove the exhaust baffle to get the benefits. Can’t do that, I have a Akrapovic ti and it is stupid loud without the baffle. I changed to the MT09 baffle and now it sounds great.

"Nels" @ 2WDW told me that it makes ZERO difference in HP with, or without the baffle in..... I tried it with the baffle out, and it was annoyingly loud, and my lap times where (slightly) higher with the baffle OUT. I put the baffle back in, and don't ever plan to pull it out again -

[Devilman 77]

1 hour ago, M. Hausknecht said:

Not sure where you got the idea that there is no performance benefit with the Hordpower airbox with a baffle in your exhaust, but it isn't so. The bike is louder with the Hordpower airbox, which might bother you, but it improves volumetric efficiency even with the stock exhaust.    

I emailed the question last year to 2WDW and that is what they wrote back to me. 

[FZ not MT 84]

Just now, cornerslider said:

"Nels" @ 2WDW told me that it makes ZERO difference in HP with, or without the baffle in..... I tried it with the baffle out, and it was annoyingly loud, and my lap times where (slightly) higher with the baffle OUT. I put the baffle back in, and don't ever plan to pull it out again

That's interesting as Nels made a post some years ago that says the exact opposite. I've found that my info from 2WDW varies depending on who I talk to there. Nels is definitely the most knowledgeable there although others like to sound like they are (names not mentioned). 

This post is from 6 years ago, so things may have changed, but it's worth asking Nels personally about it.

 

[tomlichu 18]

Just now, FZ not MT said:

That's interesting as Nels made a post some years ago that says the exact opposite. I've found that my info from 2WDW varies depending on who I talk to there. Nels is definitely the most knowledgeable there although others like to sound like they are (names not mentioned). 

This post is from 6 years ago, so things may have changed, but it's worth asking Nels personally about it.

 

It may have changed. I talked to Nate in person this year. He told me that if I want to keep the baffle in, the Akra or Yoshi exhaust systems do not have a performance drop with the baffle in.

[cornerslider 794]

Just now, FZ not MT said:

That's interesting as Nels made a post some years ago that says the exact opposite. I've found that my info from 2WDW varies depending on who I talk to there. Nels is definitely the most knowledgeable there although others like to sound like they are (names not mentioned). 

This post is from 6 years ago, so things may have changed, but it's worth asking Nels personally about it.

 

I appreciate the link!!!  It sounds like maybe it did change???? (according to @tomlichu).... I've always run 91 octane non-oxygenated fuel. Not for the "octane" portion, but the non-oxygenated portion. It sounds like the FZ-07 prefers it over 87 octane. Maybe the higher lap times I experienced with the baffle OUT, may have been me having an "off" day at the track .

[tomlichu 18]

Just now, cornerslider said:

I appreciate the link!!!  It sounds like maybe it did change???? (according to @tomlichu).... I've always run 91 octane non-oxygenated fuel. Not for the "octane" portion, but the non-oxygenated portion. It sounds like the FZ-07 prefers it over 87 octane. Maybe the higher lap times I experienced with the baffle OUT, may have been me having an "off" day at the track .

Though I would still ere on the side of caution of listening to the internet stranger (me) over an actual link that has the dyno numbers from 2wdw. My experience was with talking with someone at 2wdw 8 months ago so it's more hearsay at this point. 

I think it make sense that baffle out should produce more power since these tunes seem to make the bike run richer (so choking flow at the exhaust seems more performance restricting). I certainly smell it when my friends ride my bike. Sorry to derail the original conversation.

[M. Hausknecht 361]

By way of background for those thinking about motor-related modifications. The CP2 motor in the 07 and the R7 has been designed to create as broad and as flat a torque curve as possible while complying with emissions and noise regulations. It's a big reason why these bikes are so much fun on the street. See:

To do so, Yamaha relies on a host of factors to boost torque at lower rpms, with a necessarily corresponding de-emphasis on torque at higher rpms. In particular, the intake ports, throttle bodies, and airbox are relatively small, flowing very well at lower rpms but necessarily resulting in a drop-off in torque at higher rpms because you can't have both (at least not without variable valve timing, or a turbo or blower). I mean, look at that torque curve: there is more torque at 2500 rpm than there is at 10,000rpm! Torque is a direct measure of volumetric efficiency, so this means the stock intake system flows more air per gulp at 2500 rpm than it does anywhere above about 9,400 rpm. Its all about high gas velocities in the intake tract at lower rpms.

The relatively low volume of the airbox contributes to this, while the smallish intake to the airbox (the snorkle, in particular)  cuts noise from the intake system which allows noise limits to be met. If you've got your air-fuel ratios squared away with a good flash or other tune (to essentially undue the compromises adopted by Yamaha to meet emissions requirements), and added a bit of spark advance to run higher octane gas, all the remaining relatively easy motor mods are about improving volumetric efficiency above 6380rpm, while not doing noticeable harm to cylinder filling below 3000 rpm or so. This is what a well-designed exhaust system does, and what the Hordpower airbox does; they undue some of the compromises Yamaha  implements to comply with emissions and noise regulations.

Additional modifications like bored throttle bodies, enlarging ports, and camshafts with more lift and duration, do the same thing; they improve volumetric efficiency at higher rpms, resulting in more horsepower, while necessarily reducing torque at lower rpms. But there is no "free lunch" when you go to this extent. The engine currently in my 07 race bike barely idles at 1700 rpm, and has little power below 4000 rpm, but its torque peak is over 8000 rpm. It has decent power by 5000 rpm and it gains power all the way to 10,200 rpm (90-ish at rear wheel).