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fastfredyb

Anybody use Royal Purple full synthetic?? Thoughts

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hobbs
For the price, I'd stick with the synthetic Mobil 1 I currently use. That's almost $40 an oil change... that you did yourself!
 
But if you've got the money and desire, let us know how it goes. Thus far the only thing that dropped my operating temps was the EJK fuel controller and only by about 3 degrees. Maybe in the summer it'll be more of a pronounced difference.
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Everything went braap.

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fastfredyb
For the price, I'd stick with the synthetic Mobil 1 I currently use. That's almost $40 an oil change... that you did yourself!  
But if you've got the money and desire, let us know how it goes. Thus far the only thing that dropped my operating temps was the EJK fuel controller and only by about 3 degrees. Maybe in the summer it'll be more of a pronounced difference.
Thanks for the input, I am assuming you are using synthetic mobil 1 for motorcycles right?  I see them being similar in price. Do you notice you bike running smoother?
 

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jake
I'm a Valvoline Fan but Royal Purple beats out most everyone but you pay for it.
Not a fan of Mobil only because it looks so dirty and runs out like water but that doesn't mean its not working good.

2015 FZ-07 2003 2014 GSXR 1000

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Cruizin
More important than oil brand is oil and filter change frequency. But, for best longevity of actual lubrication use Ester based motorcycle oil.
 
Personally, on new bikes I use Redline but there are many quality Ester based brands out there.
 
But then again, I know an old guy with some bikes over 200,000 miles that uses the cheapest dino oil he can find but he changes oil every 3000 miles.
 
Everyone has a preference and opinion but Ester based oils have won alot of long term studies.
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planetwister
Amsoil! seems pretty common with bikes, i pay 10.99/quart. you just have to buy it from a private guy that sells it

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cassecou
 
But then again, I know an old guy with some bikes over 200,000 miles that uses the cheapest dino oil he can find but he changes oil every 3000 miles.
 
Everyone has a preference and opinion.......
Don't go for the expensive oil. Just get good oil and change it at the beginning and at the end of the riding season. 
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hobbs
For the price, I'd stick with the synthetic Mobil 1 I currently use. That's almost $40 an oil change... that you did yourself!  
But if you've got the money and desire, let us know how it goes. Thus far the only thing that dropped my operating temps was the EJK fuel controller and only by about 3 degrees. Maybe in the summer it'll be more of a pronounced difference.
Thanks for the input, I am assuming you are using synthetic mobil 1 for motorcycles right?  I see them being similar in price. Do you notice you bike running smoother?
 
 
I bought a couple cases when there was a sale happening for around $9/quart. I was using Castrol GTX at around the same price and will probably switch back when I run out. Yes, motorcycle specific oils to answer your question.
 
Probably no perceptible change in the bike or any vehicle, not to me at least. Synthetic oils exceed in that all of the molecules are of a similar size and structure, probably in a few other technicial areas as well. Mineral oil molecules are as different size and shape to each other as any grain of sand on the beach.
 
Thus... more efficient friction control. More important in precision motors where tolerances are tighter. Probably won't even matter to some vehicles what you use overall. It's worth the few extra bucks for science to me however.

Everything went braap.

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none
I went from Castrol syntec Mobil one m/c full synthetic in my air cooled Bonneville and the shifting and clutch improved markedly. I later changed to Royal Purple on a chance and found "antidotal" cooler running. (you really feel that hot motor under you with no radiator and it was cooler)
 
On this bike, with the water cooling and even a water jacket going to the oil filter, running cooler should not be needed. I will go with Mobil one as I predict clutch and shifting will improve.

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planetwister
But then again, I know an old guy with some bikes over 200,000 miles that uses the cheapest dino oil he can find but he changes oil every 3000 miles. 
Everyone has a preference and opinion.......
Don't go for the expensive oil. Just get good oil and change it at the beginning and at the end of the riding season.
you telling me to change my oil every 6000 miles.. lol
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none
Don't go for the expensive oil. Just get good oil and change it at the beginning and at the end of the riding season.
 

you telling me to change my oil every 6000 miles.. lol
Yea, really...I did 26,000 last "season".  (feb '14- sept '14)
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cassecou
That's because most of the riders in the US (and probably Canada) don't ride over 3000 miles a season. If you do, go by the service manual.....its that simple.

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scordiaboy515
   IMO, synthetic oil is a waste of money,  in the summer months riding in town or in traffic synthetic oil turn to water especially when the bike is idling, at a light etc, it also runs quieter with petroleum oils.  I always use Yamaha Lube with a factory oil filter, and here's the main reason...if you do all your own servicing and something happens to the engine, and you can't prove to the dealer you used Yamaha oil they will not warranty the engine work.    Something to consider.....our bikes are not race bikes with oil sponsors to pay for these exotic lubricants.  If it makes you feel better change the oil every 2 -3000 miles with Yamaha Lube and keep all your receipts.  Just my take ;)
 
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scordiaboy515
  
     ooops....typo ::) 

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fastfredyb
   IMO, synthetic oil is a waste of money,  in the summer months riding in town or in traffic synthetic oil turn to water especially when the bike is idling, at a light etc, it also runs quieter with petroleum oils.  I always use Yamaha Lube with a factory oil filter, and here's the main reason...if you do all your own servicing and something happens to the engine, and you can't prove to the dealer you used Yamaha oil they will not warranty the engine work.    Something to consider.....our bikes are not race bikes with oil sponsors to pay for these exotic lubricants.  If it makes you feel better change the oil every 2 -3000 miles with Yamaha Lube and keep all your receipts.  Just my take ;)
Good point on the warranty.  

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mjh937
The owners manual says the recommended brand of oil is Yamalube, not that it is the required brand. As long as you use an oil that meets the oil grade specified (API service SG type or higher, JASO standard MA) I cannot see how they could deny any warrantee claims.

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hobbs
Without documentation physically stating a specific brand or type of oil be used, I don't think they can legally deny you warranty service. I was unable to find such a requirement, just a recommendation. But that's like McDonald's recommending if you eat a cheeseburger to have a Big Mac.

Everything went braap.

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planetwister
   IMO, synthetic oil is a waste of money,  in the summer months riding in town or in traffic synthetic oil turn to water especially when the bike is idling, at a light etc, it also runs quieter with petroleum oils.  I always use Yamaha Lube with a factory oil filter, and here's the main reason...if you do all your own servicing and something happens to the engine, and you can't prove to the dealer you used Yamaha oil they will not warranty the engine work.    Something to consider.....our bikes are not race bikes with oil sponsors to pay for these exotic lubricants.  If it makes you feel better change the oil every 2 -3000 miles with Yamaha Lube and keep all your receipts.  Just my take ;)
false... they cant deny you warranty work because you didnt use there brand of oil. doesnt matter if its castrol or yamalube. unless they can prove the oil you used caused the issue. which is almost impossible

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marthy
I used Rotella T6 for most of the life of the FZ6R. I did too in the FZ09 but it was a bit sticky when shifting on track days so I swap to redline. Problem fix!
 
Oil quality has come a long ways in the past 20 years.
 
I would try Rotella T6 (5W40... blue can) after 4K miles. Before that the dino Rotella should be enough.

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Guest Ralph
I can tell you one thing, my Morini needed the valves adjusted every 1500 miles or so,
A switch to semi synth and after over 10000 miles it's just becoming a little rattly,
this is due to rocker shaft wear something you don't usually get on modern engines they
usually tighten the valve clearances due to seat recession tests showed there was no
measurable difference between semi and fully synth and so I always use semi but in very
highly stressed engines I would likely go fully though I am unlikely to run one of those.

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crazycracka501
Mobil 1 full synthetic fan in all my vehicles. Went with the Yamalube for first oil change as recommended just for the full break in period, next change will be Mobil 1.
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Make it stop!....Now make it go faster!

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scordiaboy515
Mobil 1 full synthetic fan in all my vehicles. Went with the Yamalube for first oil change as recommended just for the full break in period, next change will be Mobil 1.
    One more thing to consider with any oil you buy, there is a difference between car oil and motorcycle oil. The difference is the oil in a bike engine not only has to lubricate the bearings and valve train but also the transmission.  When the oil passes thru the transmission on a bike engine it beats the heck out of it.....where the gears mesh it smashes the molecules of the oil and breaks it down more so than a car engine would.  Of course I'm not a chemist but read about it yourself.....whatever oil you buy, make sure it's designed for bike engines, i.e Motul, Amsoil, Mobil 1 motorcycle oil.  More food for thought. 
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hobbs
Automobile oils also have anti-friction additives that can cause a wet sump clutch to slip.
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Everything went braap.

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fastfredyb
I went ahead and switched to the Royal Purple motorcycle 10/40 full synthetic. Right off the bat the shifting and the motor felt smoother. "Placebo" I don't know but I feel a difference

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