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Throttle Cable Routing (Flexiglass BW)


jb.junior

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I’m not able to find a good way to route my throttle cables with this current set up. It’s Flexiglass Bodywork and Robem engineering Fairing stay. I had it “on top” at first (I.e., where it goes facing over the top of the master and kind of forward and in front of the brake, as opposed to underneath like it is in the pics), but it was rubbing the right side of the faring stay where the wind screens attaches; to the point where I can really feel the turning of the handlebars impeded. 

I tried flipping it around and running it underneath which doesn’t hit the windscreen anymore, but it has a slight bind on it. I’m going to ride the bike around and test how it feels here, but it’s not great.

I ordered the domino Quickturn kit for an R7, thinking that would solve the problem because it would have a shorter throttle cable. It’s actually the same throttle cable length. (42” / ~106cm) as my OEM FZ cable. So I haven’t bothered to install it because I don’t think it would rectify the problem. (I don’t need the more advanced quick turning of an aftermarket throttle. I have an R6 throttle tube and think it is fine.)

It’s also in the way of my instrumentation, which I don’t really care about that much but it would be nice to have it not so. I’m thinking the only solution is to have a custom cable made from Motion Pro, but I’m not sure what their leadtime is. It’s been impossible just getting them on the phone… maybe 40”.

I think it’s partly just the nature of this bodywork kit. It’s lower, sleeker and not as bulbous as ap/ sharkskins, so there’s just not as much room for stuff. We were barely able to get the fairing stay set up right where it wouldn’t rub the gauge cluster inside the nose of the body. We had to make a special bracket.   

The longer cables were always kind of in the way of my instrumentation with the previous AP body, but they never got in the way of the bodywork/windscreen. I ran them over the top of the master brake, like normal.  I guess not many people are running this bodywork, so I don’t know what others have done. 


The Spears kit from the picture seems to be run underneath. Spears is going to get some pictures of an actual installation for me. I just don’t see how they’re making it work on the R7 unless something is really different from the MT. Spears says it’s been no problem. I’m not sure what it’s going wrong here.

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Edited by jb.junior
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I just spent the weekend figuring out the same thing. I found having mine laying on top of the master cylinder body provided the best layout and movement without snagging or binding. 

I also have the Flexi-Glass and Robem mount. 


Ed

IMG_0020.thumb.jpg.2371a9d4a02bfc99e231a89bde0bd8c4.jpg

IMG_0011.jpg

"Do not let this bad example influence you, follow only what is good" 

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Just now, Evill_Ed said:

I just spent the weekend figuring out the same thing. I found having mine laying on top of the master cylinder body provided the best layout and movement without snagging or binding. 

I also have the Flexi-Glass and Robem mount. 


Ed

IMG_0020.thumb.jpg.2371a9d4a02bfc99e231a89bde0bd8c4.jpg

IMG_0011.jpg

Thanks for this.  Do you have a pic showing where it goes around the fairing stay, where it goes around the left fork and how it goes into the frame?  I'd appreciate it.  I had mine going above the fairing stay and right in front of the gauge cluster, which caused it to protrude up and in to the bodywork / windscreen.  I don't have pics of it, as I've moved it, but I can post some tomorrow or whenever I/ we are able to look at it again.

Stock cable, right?  Not binding anywhere / totally free movement of the bars?

 

Edited by jb.junior
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And can you please take a pic of where your fairing stay is connected to the frame neck?  Mine is as high as it can go.  Let me find a pic...

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Just now, jb.junior said:

Thanks for this.  Do you have a pic showing where it goes around the fairing stay, where it goes around the left fork and how it goes into the frame?  I'd appreciate it.  I had mine going above the fairing stay and right in front of the gauge cluster, which caused it to protrude up and in to the bodywork / windscreen.  I don't have pics of it, as I've moved it, but I can post some tomorrow or whenever I/ we are able to look at it again.

Stock cable, right?  Not binding anywhere / totally free movement of the bars?

 

I'm traveling the next few days, when I am back on Friday I can take some pictures for you. I believe that the cables are on top of the fairing mount and around the left fork like sock. They do not move up in front of the gauge cluster when I turn the bars. 

The cables are stock with a factory R6 throttle tube. 

I wish I could find  slightly shorter clutch cable. 


Ed

"Do not let this bad example influence you, follow only what is good" 

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Just now, jb.junior said:

And can you please take a pic of where your fairing stay is connected to the frame neck?  Mine is as high as it can go.  Let me find a pic...

Yes, I can send you pictures later this week. 

"Do not let this bad example influence you, follow only what is good" 

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On 3/2/2022 at 5:35 AM, Evill_Ed said:

Yes, I can send you pictures later this week. 

Here are the pictures of the throttle cables. No binding from lock to lock. When I turn all the way to the left, they glide over the very top corner of the dash daisplay. So far its the best set up I have achieved. 

 

Ed

IMG-0058.thumb.jpg.e4d59661975fd9906753e4adb30650da.jpgIMG-0059.thumb.jpg.9bd383d293d2071f34ac854b66bf0923.jpg

"Do not let this bad example influence you, follow only what is good" 

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Oh yeah, here is my front fairing mount. You can reference the bottom edge of the clamp against the serial number digits. 

IMG-0045.thumb.jpg.c4524606f627ba6ea70e18b8c098fd75.jpg

"Do not let this bad example influence you, follow only what is good" 

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I'm not having a whole lot of fun with mine either, actually any of it. The sharkskins version II I got never put a mounting point for the front fairing stay and they no longer make the fairing stay for them. Fred at sharkskins told me when I called to figure it out " You have a long road ahead, we at sharkskins have advanced our product, the people who fabricate the stays have not" moving the rectifier and all the crap at wire harness city center left side is a PITA and so is the ecu. I'm getting there.

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5 hours ago, Evill_Ed said:

Oh yeah, here is my front fairing mount. You can reference the bottom edge of the clamp against the serial number digits. 

IMG-0045.thumb.jpg.c4524606f627ba6ea70e18b8c098fd75.jpg

What are those rubber spacers for mounting the instrument cluster? @Evill_Ed

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Just now, fzar said:

What are those rubber spacers for mounting the instrument cluster? @Evill_Ed

Those are the bushings from the original mount. I transferred them to the Robem mount. 

 

Ed

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"Do not let this bad example influence you, follow only what is good" 

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Just now, Evill_Ed said:

Those are the bushings from the original mount. I transferred them to the Robem mount. 

 

Ed

Thats useful, I didn't get to that yet I had just mounted it to get an idea of what needs to be moved and by how much for the ecu and rectifier and relay's. Cool.

Dave.

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