R7 Slipper Clutch

[cornerslider]

Please keep us posted on the results.... I'm considering going down this same road-

 

[Evill_Ed]

3 hours ago, Einstein57 said:

I was looking up the part numbers and I just wanted to clarify something before I enter my order. 
 

you show plate clutch 2  (5VY-16325-00-00 ) which appears to be an individual plate. 
 

Shouldn’t it be the friction plate kit BEB-W001M-00-00 with the full set of plates?

Yes, all of the clutch and friction plates were included in the clutch kit .

[Evill_Ed]

2 hours ago, jb.junior said:

Thanks for this. Have you ever had a slipper clutch of any kind in one of these engines? Curious to see how R7 version performs compared to an aftermarket. 

I have no experience with any type of slipper clutch in our engines  

A guy at my track has a new R7, he said it worked well. I have read other riding reviews that say the same thing  

I'll find out for sure soon enough

Ed

[Evill_Ed]

Just now, cornerslider said:

Please keep us posted on the results.... I'm considering going down this same road-

 

Will do. I have no brakes at the moment,  so I could not test ride it yet.  Once the front end is reassembled,  ill be able to test it out.

 

Ed 

[jb.junior]

6 hours ago, Evill_Ed said:

I have no experience with any type of slipper clutch in our engines  

A guy at my track has a new R7, he said it worked well. I have read other riding reviews that say the same thing  

I'll find out for sure soon enough

Ed

That's good to know.  I have a Yoyodyne in my SB build, and it works well, though I usually [unnecessarily] blip my throttle anyway.  But I've "dumped it" more than a few times mid corner, and the slipper really helps with stability.  

Too bad the long lead time on this;  but interested to see how it rides.  May get one for upcoming new build instead of an aftermarket. 

[shinyribs]

On 2/24/2022 at 11:52 PM, Evill_Ed said:

Here are my pictures and notes for the installation of the R7 Slipper Clutch.

PART TWO - Installation

Stock FZ / MT Clutch Boss and Pressure plate on Top  /  R7 Slipper on Bottom

Note Ramps and oval shaped holes on Boss and Plate, this is how they disengage to provide slip 

Install rear spacer first, then R7 Clutch Boss and front spacer

Then Beveled Washer with the word OUT facing you and a new Boss Nut. Torque Boss Nut to 70-ft.lbs and stake the lock tab.

Place the transmission in 6th gear and hold the rear brake to torque the Boss Nut.

Install Clutch Damper Spring Seat

 

Then install the Clutch Damper Spring. Note the bevel faces outward. 

Then begin installing the friction and clutch plates in order. Assemble dry and then measure the stack height. Range is 32.7 mm to 33.5 mm. My first assembly came out towards the lower end. I realized that I used 2 of the thinner clutch plates. (see chart below) The clutch kit come with 5 standard plates 2.0mm, (2) thinner plates 1.6mm and (2) heavier plates 2.3mm. 

 

I reassembled with 5 standard 2.0mm plate and was at 33.5mm exactly. I then oiled the friction and clutch plates and installed with the R7 pressure plate.

Torque Clutch Spring Bolts to 7.4-ft.lbs.

Note offset on last friction plate.

Clean the mating surfaces and put a new gasket on the clutch cover and reinstall. I found it lined up easy, slide the cover down and wiggle the water pump impeller to make sure it lock onto the drive shaft. Don't sweat the clutch arm alignment if it is off. Mine was slightly off, I just removed the C Clip and rotated the arm a few degrees until the marks lined up and reinstalled the C Clip.

Torque clutch cover bolts to 8.9-ft.lbs

Refill coolant. Install a new oil filter and oil.

Install the clutch cable on the cover, adjust and tighten lock nuts. Then fine adjust at clutch lever to achieve 10mm free play. 

I think that's pretty much it. Feel free to ask any questions. 

Ed

 

Does the slipper hub not have a steel insert where it connects to the input shaft, or is that just splined straight in to the aluminum? Looks that way in the picture, but I have a feeling it's just lighting/reflection. 

[Einstein57]

Placed my order. Seems pretty cheap. Under $270 through partzilla. 

Edited March 2, 2022 by Einstein57

[Shyan]

9 hours ago, Evill_Ed said:

Will do. I have no brakes at the moment,  so I could not test ride it yet.  Once the front end is reassembled,  ill be able to test it out.

 

Ed 

Just want to make sure the kit BEB-W001G-00-00 comes with all the clutch/friction plate that is match with the measurement? Or is there any minimum/maximum measurement for all the clutch/friction plate together in dry or wet condition?

[Evill_Ed]

Just now, Shyan said:

Just want to make sure the kit BEB-W001G-00-00 comes with all the clutch/friction plate that is match with the measurement? Or is there any minimum/maximum measurement for all the clutch/friction plate together in dry or wet condition?

The kit comes with al the required plates . It also provides additional thicker and thinner plates so that you can obtain he correct height. In my case using all 5 of the standard plates got me to the max height.

The manual said to measure the assembly dry.

Ed

[Evill_Ed]

Just now, shinyribs said:

Does the slipper hub not have a steel insert where it connects to the input shaft, or is that just splined straight in to the aluminum? Looks that way in the picture, but I have a feeling it's just lighting/reflection. 

Its all aluminum

 

Ed

[Shyan]

Just now, Evill_Ed said:

The kit comes with al the required plates . It also provides additional thicker and thinner plates so that you can obtain he correct height. In my case using all 5 of the standard plates got me to the max height.

The manual said to measure the assembly dry.

Ed

Ok. Just purchase everything from Japan and wait it shop to my country... Since the kit provide all the plates, so I just make sure it falls between 32.7 mm to 33.5 mm then should be fine.

[Evill_Ed]

Just now, Shyan said:

Ok. Just purchase everything from Japan and wait it shop to my country... Since the kit provide all the plates, so I just make sure it falls between 32.7 mm to 33.5 mm then should be fine.

That is correct. 

[fzar]

On 2/24/2022 at 10:52 PM, Evill_Ed said:

I then oiled the friction and clutch plates

Tell me @Evill_Ed how you went about this oiling the friction and clutch plates, I mean do you soak them in engine oil overnight or is there another process that yamaha prefers? Interesting stuff.

[Evill_Ed]

Just now, fzar said:

Tell me @Evill_Ed how you went about this oiling the friction and clutch plates, I mean do you soak them in engine oil overnight or is there another process that yamaha prefers? Interesting stuff.

I just soaked them in fresh oil for few minutes then installed. They don's really soak up any oil, they just should be installed wet.

 

Ed

[Einstein57]

Looks like I’ll be installing everything towards the end of April. I’ll have two track days in between now and then.  

[Weeksy]

Great thread guys

[sweetscience]

Ahh yes the popular assist-and-slipper clutch!  Most, if not all sport bikes are employing this technology nowadays.  I had one a 2018 Ninja 400.  It is a great feature to be honest, with one (minor) drawback. 

The skinny is that the assist-and-slipper clutch has two functions: one is to help in takeoff and to slip on erroneous downshifting.    Gooogle it for more info.  It will have a lighter clutch pull (3 springs), good for commuting and beginner hands.  It simply employs 3 springs because there is a set of ramps in the design to help in clamping of the clutch in launches and accelerating.

The minor drawback I encountered on the Ninja 400 is mainly used for track/racing applications.  And that is the friction point (bite point) of the clutch is more vague than a conventional clutch.  So at launches, the bite point feels literally like a light switch, either ON/OFF.  It is more difficult or impossible to modulate.  Many riders may not feel this difference because it is very subtle, but that is my opinion, and take it as you will.   Otherwise, like I said, a great invention.        

[fzar]

On 3/5/2022 at 4:59 PM, sweetscience said:

So at launches, the bite point feels literally like a light switch, either ON/OFF.

This is the case with my bike without the slipper clutch. When I bought it I had to let it out what seemed like almost an eternity or 3-4 inches to find the bite point. After  adjusting the lever and the nut at the top of the clutch I was able to get it where I want it. That's about an inch, from fully pulled in to the bar to full launch. In  hindsight it takes just a fraction of the lever pull to downshift. Tested at trackdays.

Dave.

[sweetscience]

12 hours ago, fzar said:

This is the case with my bike without the slipper clutch. When I bought it I had to let it out what seemed like almost an eternity or 3-4 inches to find the bite point. After  adjusting the lever and the nut at the top of the clutch I was able to get it where I want it. That's about an inch, from fully pulled in to the bar to full launch. In  hindsight it takes just a fraction of the lever pull to downshift. Tested at trackdays.

Dave.

It has nothing to do with having the correct clutch adjustment.  What I'm trying to say is the added element of the assist feature of the ASC (assist-and-slipper clutch) supersedes the ability to modulate the friction point versus a conventional clutch.  Another way to think of it is the ASC is another link in the chain in the clamping mechanics  of the clutch plates.  More links in the proverbial chain diminishes control.   Modulating of the friction point is crucial if you're chasing tenths at the drag strip or shooting for the hole shot.  Kind of hard to explain,  it's  just something to actually test for yourself.  Of course, none of this matters if you're just street riding because it is very subtle and only control sensitive riders will detect it.  So in reality it is neither bad nor good.

[M. Hausknecht]

Just now, sweetscience said:

It has nothing to do with having the correct clutch adjustment.  What I'm trying to say is the added element of the assist feature of the ASC (assist-and-slipper clutch) supersedes the ability to modulate the friction point versus a conventional clutch.  Another way to think of it is the ASC is another link in the chain in the clamping mechanics  of the clutch plates.  More links in the proverbial chain diminishes control.   Modulating of the friction point is crucial if you're chasing tenths at the drag strip or shooting for the hole shot.  Kind of hard to explain,  it's  just something to actually test for yourself.  Of course, none of this matters if you're just street riding because it is very subtle and only control sensitive riders will detect it.  So in reality it is neither bad nor good.

 I've used slipper clutches on multiple bikes, including  Yoyodynes on my MT07 and a Duc 748SP, and I have found the amount of slip to be easy to modulate off the line (starting road races). I have, however, had difficulty with modulating "regular" clutches, especially with high strung smaller four-cylinders. Correct stack height and plates with zero warp are very important to proper clutch operation, and it helps when you don't have to slip the clutch at 10,000 rpm to get off the line quickly. I don't question your experience with a Ninja 400 but I doubt very much that the slipper elements of the clutch were/are the problem.

[fzar]

I went ahead and ordered, 7 pieces have already shipped the last piece the clutch plate kit is about 3 weeks out. 

[Shyan]

Mine just arrived.. took almost 6 days from Tokyo to my house directly.. Now waiting for clutch plate which I have order from my local dealer.

[Shyan]

Finally get it install...improve a lot on the clutch lever feel and i would say it eliminating almost 50% of 07's engine braking.. Not sure my thought or what suppose slipper clutch works but during normal shift down it wont feel it much(maybe I used to blip the throttle when shift down) unless in aggressive riding?

P/s: A&S original sticker from Yamaha R15 XD

[M. Hausknecht]

Even with a slipper clutch there are significant advantages to rev matching on downshifts (blipping the throttle) because it minimizes upsetting the balance of the bike on the downshift. For me, the slipper clutch just makes accurate rev matching less critical, so I can focus on other things like hitting my turn in points and trail braking to or nearly to the apex.

[Shyan]

Just now, M. Hausknecht said:

Even with a slipper clutch there are significant advantages to rev matching on downshifts (blipping the throttle) because it minimizes upsetting the balance of the bike on the downshift. For me, the slipper clutch just makes accurate rev matching less critical, so I can focus on other things like hitting my turn in points and trail braking to or nearly to the apex.

Agree. Rev matching(Blip throttle) are important especially you riding 2 stoke (Good old day with my Kawasaki Ninja 150). Is more important for 4 stroke if you lazy to pull your clutch... (Clutch-less upshifting )