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Stripped bar end bolt head


Julian

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So I was really excited to do the R6 throttle tube mod and got stuck at the first step, unscrewing the bar end. The first question would be what size it is? A 4mm allen key was too small, but a 5mm too big? There was a bit of rust as you can see and I figured the oxide may have made the fit smaller so I jammed the 5mm in and it looked like it had grip so I turned it. It didn't work and now it's turning loose. Being a small 5mm Allen key you can imagine I couldn't use a lot of force so the metal must have been really soft. 

How do I get it out? I am also going to the dealer on Wednesday, would it be reasonable to ask them to fix it on account of the bike being barely 6 months old and fully under warranty? In my opinion there shouldn't be rust there on a 6 months old and I never had an allen bold strip on me before. 

20211112_182410.jpg

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2019_MT07_Owner

I did a similar thing... the small bolt in the middle is not the one you need to loosen. I believe its an 8mm allen that fits in the outer section and that will loosen the whole bar end weight.

Good luck.

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That isn't a small bolt... there is no bolt.  The whole bar-end weight is the threaded thing.  What you're seeing is just flash left from when they made the 8mm hex.  It ends up in a hex shape and looks a little like an Allen wrench would fit it.  If you get a magnifier and a flashlight you can see what's going on in there.

Edited by Triple Jim
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Ok done, thanks for your help. Now I can finally have a victory beer! The hardest part was putting the cable stoppers back in the grooves. They were pretty greasy and slippery and it took a few tries. I didn't add more grease I hope that's OK. 

The new setup also took up almost all the cable slack, I am at the maximum at the bottom and there is about 1 mm left at the top adjuster. 

I noticed that on the MT-07 throttle tube, the bottom hole is bigger than the top one. I'm wondering if it was alway like that of if the cable stopper ate into it. I can see that creating some jerkiness if it has too much space to move around. 

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@Julian, I just looked at my stock tube (for some reason I still have it sitting on a shelf) and the holes are the same as yours.  I guess they are supposed to be like that.  I do not recall if the R6 tube was the same as it was a while ago that I swapped it. 

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59 minutes ago, Triple Jim said:

I'll be interested in your review of the R6 throttle tube mod.

I did a quick test around the block. I though it would be very noticeable when starting from a stop but it's not. If someone changed it without you knowing it would probably take you a while to notice. You do gear up faster and are in 3rd in no time. It's like twist, gear up, twist gear up and you're at cruising speed. You run out of rpm in 1st pretty quickly. I noticed some jerkiness but it might be due a bit of stickiness that I still found after I got back, with the handlebars turned to the max, or to the fact that I'm not yet used to a more nervous throttle. I'll keep an eye on it over the next few days. 

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Just now, mjh937 said:

@Julian, I just looked at my stock tube (for some reason I still have it sitting on a shelf) and the holes are the same as yours.  I guess they are supposed to be like that.  I do not recall if the R6 tube was the same as it was a while ago that I swapped it. 

Good point, I just searched pictures of the R6 throttle tube and the bottom hole is bigger. I'm wondering if the stoppers are also different sizes so you don't mix them, I didnt pay that much attention. 

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3 hours ago, Julian said:

I did a quick test around the block. I though it would be very noticeable when starting from a stop but it's not. If someone changed it without you knowing it would probably take you a while to notice. You do gear up faster and are in 3rd in no time. It's like twist, gear up, twist gear up and you're at cruising speed. You run out of rpm in 1st pretty quickly. I noticed some jerkiness but it might be due a bit of stickiness that I still found after I got back, with the handlebars turned to the max, or to the fact that I'm not yet used to a more nervous throttle. I'll keep an eye on it over the next few days. 

You might want to re-check your throttle cable tension? When I did the R6 throttle tube mod on my 07, the difference was HUGE.... I wasn't sure I even like it at first. I eventually grew to appreciate it the more time I spent with it 😎-

""W.O.T. until you see god, then brake"

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On 11/13/2021 at 3:00 AM, cornerslider said:

You might want to re-check your throttle cable tension? When I did the R6 throttle tube mod on my 07, the difference was HUGE.... I wasn't sure I even like it at first. I eventually grew to appreciate it the more time I spent with it <img src=">-

The throttle tension is perfect, no stickiness and no play. I had another run and I maintain what I said: I accelerate smoothly and at city speeds it's not that noticeable. I move my hand less and it feels as if it has a little more torque but it's not night and day. Your experience may vary. 

Out bikes are not as fast revving as the R6, when twisting the throttle fast it seems as there's a bit of lag until it pulls. The throttle feels a little heavier than before which is normal I think because it's asking more from the engine. I like the mod and I will keep it, it's still the most impactul thing you can do to our bikes for the money. 

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20 minutes ago, Julian said:

The throttle tension is perfect, no stickiness and no play.

The manual specifies 3 to 5 mm of play, measured at the flange of the grip.  5 seems excessive but it doesn't feel sloppy to me at 3 (1/8").

 

mt-07_throttle_play.png

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I think, if you turn the handlebar full lock to the left/right and in both cases there's a tiny tiny bit of hardly recognizable slack at the lower end of the steel cable, it's enough.  The purpose of the slack is to prevent giving throttle unintentionally while steering and guarantee fully closed throttle bodies in idle. So I adjust every bike (also with carburators) this way to minimize the lag.

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Oh I think the other wire opens the throttle...not sure while sitting on the couch :D
 

Edited by ElGonzales
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5 hours ago, Triple Jim said:

The manual specifies 3 to 5 mm of play, measured at the flange of the grip.  5 seems excessive but it doesn't feel sloppy to me at 3 (1/8").

 

3 hours ago, ElGonzales said:

I think, if you turn the handlebar full lock to the left/right and in both cases there's a tiny tiny bit of hardly recognizable slack at the lower end of the steel cable, it's enough.  The purpose of the slack is to prevent giving throttle unintentionally while steering and guarantee fully closed throttle bodies in idle. So I adjust every bike (also with carburators) this way to minimize the lag.

What he said. I also think that the free play recommendation is there to make it idiot proof. If you understand how to adjust the throttle tension correctly, I don't think there's any good reason to have free play. I got rid of mine as soon as I brought the bike home and it has improved the jerkiness and engine braking. 

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On 11/12/2021 at 5:38 PM, Julian said:

I did a quick test around the block. I though it would be very noticeable when starting from a stop but it's not. If someone changed it without you knowing it would probably take you a while to notice. 

Yeah I thought the same thing , that it would be even twitchier down low but it really didn't change and after doing this mod and looking at the 2 different tubes I understand why it didn't change really. I do notice the overall quicker turn to full throttle. I went with the cheap MotionPro version which isn't quite as quick as the R6 tube. I might get the R6 tube now that I know I like the change.

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