MT-07 tool recommendations

[D.A.]

@BruceWayne911  As you learn to work on your bike, you will develop your own ways of doing certain tasks and come to your own conclusions as to what tools are best for getting any particular job done. We all develop our skillset and tool collection that way, which explains why there are so many different opinions expressed by forums members. 

No matter how many tools you own there will be times when you have to make a mid-project run to Home Depot, Advance Auto Parts or a local motorcycle dealer to pick up an oddball tool or maintenance item, and times where all you can do is gaze in frustration at your half-disassembled bike while you wait weeks on end for Partzilla to ship you some essential gasket or seal you didn’t realize you’d need when you began a maintenance or repair job. 

In spite of our best efforts to prepare you for what lies ahead, it’s not really possible for anyone to list every tool you’re likely to need in the future. In fact there are lots of basic tasks, like tightening your chain adjusters, where you’ll suddenly discover you need a combination of tools nobody mentioned, like both a 12mm deep socket and a 12mm wrench:

 

 

And we haven’t even talked about other accessory-type tools you will eventually need if you are serious about doing your own maintenance, like a cable luber, chain alignment tool, manometer, voltmeter, spring puller, spanner wrench, snap ring pliers, battery tender, soldering iron, wire stripper, wire cutters, grinder, vise, jack stands, wheel balancer, tire irons, wheel weights, oil drain pan, brake bleeder, air compressor, chain press, spark plug gapper, clutch hub holder, bearing driver, blow torch, impact sockets, impact wrench, etc., etc. Or hard to find expendables like lithium soap-based grease and easy to find essentials like zip ties, Loctite and anti-seize.

But it’s okay — if not better — to learn through trial and error and improvising rather than start out by investing a ton of money in gear you may never end up using. The problem-solving process is part of the adventure of owning a motorcycle. 

Edited May 22, 2021 by D.A.

[BruceWayne911]

I really appreciate everyone's advice, its helped alot. Today was a good day my MT-07 was delivered today.

 

 

[BruceWayne911]

I'm going to install my frame sliders tomorrow. Im currently looking in my service manual for the torque specifications were the frame sliders bolt on to. Does any know where in the service manual this can be found?

[D.A.]

1 hour ago, BruceWayne911 said:

… looking in my service manual for the torque specifications were the frame sliders bolt on …

I don’t know which service manual you have. I have the 2014 MT-07 Service Manual (UK•EU version) but use it when working on my 2016 FZ-07 (USA version). These 2 bikes are essentially identical so I’ve encountered no issues using the MT service manual with the FZ. 

Anyhow, there’s a torque chart on page 2-20 and assembly instructions on page 5-11. 

The proper torque setting is 54 ft/lbs for the frame sliders (assuming you have Shogun-style sliders that screw in where the front engine mounting bolts go). If using anti-seize on the bolts, which I highly suggest, you should reduce torque. I generally reduce by 20%,  meaning 54 ft/lbs - 20% = 43.2 ft/lbs. 

Be sure to double-check the tightness on occasion for obvious reasons. 

 

Edited June 13, 2021 by D.A.

[JeffL]

I torqued my Shogun sliders at 43 ft-lbs. 

EDIT: just checked after around 150 miles and hasn't changed from 43 ft-lbs.

Edited June 14, 2021 by JeffL

[BruceWayne911]

On 6/12/2021 at 11:28 PM, D.A. said:

I don’t know which service manual you have. I have the 2014 MT-07 Service Manual (UK•EU version) but use it when working on my 2016 FZ-07 (USA version). These 2 bikes are essentially identical so I’ve encountered no issues using the MT service manual with the FZ. 

Anyhow, there’s a torque chart on page 2-20 and assembly instructions on page 5-11. 

The proper torque setting is 54 ft/lbs for the frame sliders (assuming you have Shogun-style sliders that screw in where the front engine mounting bolts go). If using anti-seize on the bolts, which I highly suggest, you should reduce torque. I generally reduce by 20%,  meaning 54 ft/lbs - 20% = 43.2 ft/lbs. 

Be sure to double-check the tightness on occasion for obvious reasons. 

 

If I may ask, why would you lower the torque value because of antiseize?

I use blue loctite when reattaching bolts.

[D.A.]

50 minutes ago, BruceWayne911 said:

… why would you lower the torque value because of antiseize?

Unless otherwise noted, torque values are for dry bolts, meaning bolts with no sort of lubrication on them. When you tighten a dry bolt into a dry engine case, a certain level of friction will be encountered. Torque values are based on a variety of factors, including anticipated friction.  

Anti-seize is used to prevent different types of metal from permanently attaching to each other. In your case, you’re screwing Shogun’s steel bolts into Yamaha’s aluminum engine. Anti-seize also has lubricating properties that will result in less friction. If you use the normal amount of dry torque on a lubricated bolt, it will tighten more easily than normal and you run the risk of over-stressing and deforming the bolt and/or the engine head. Hence the need to reduce torque to compensate. 

54 ft/lbs of dry torque is the same amount of tightness as 43.2 ft/lbs of lubricated torque — if you are subtracting 20% as your compensation value. As I believe I mentioned earlier, though, there’s no real consensus on what percentage to reduce torque. Some say 20%, some 25% and some 30%. Which to use is up to you, based on our input and your own personal research and experience. 

Admittedly, reducing torque when using a lubricant seems counterintuitive. You’d think it logical to use MORE torque to ensure the bolt doesn’t become loose due to the lubrication itself. But that is not the case. Also, it’s generally accepted that even though anti-seize acts as a lubricant, it does not cause a properly torqued bolt to come lose. But it does make that bolt easier to  loosen when you want to remove it. 

So… reduce torque to 43.2 ft/lbs and for your safety and peace of mind, occasionally double-check the bolts to make they are not coming loose. 

Edited June 15, 2021 by D.A.

[BruceWayne911]

Is losing psi in motorcycle tires a common thing? A few days ago before riding my MT-07 I checked the tire pressure and made sure it was 33/36.

I rode around for a couple of hours and rechecked it, I noticed the front tire loss like 5-7 psi. The rear tire loss 3 psi. Is this something I should be concerned about? There are no leaks or visible changes to tires.

[BruceWayne911]

I'm looking to buy some spare push fasteners for my MT-07. Can anyone point me on the right direction.

[shinyribs]

I believe they call em push rivets? That might help your searching. Your local dealership should have them in stock. I needed some for a Suzuki fourwheeler years ago ( don't judge me ...). A pack of ten was a few bucks from the dealer. Not sure if that carries over to Yamaha or not. 

[nozeitgeist1800]

with regards to torque wrenches, im not sure if someone else has already said this or not, but i HIGHLY recommend getting a torque wrench that operates in in/lbs in addition to the ft/lbs torque wrenches youll get. there are a ton of bolts that have torque ratings under what a lot of torque wrenches minimums are. also, i didnt see on your list but regular / open end socket wrenches will be needed at least a couple times if you end up doing a lot of modifications, where a ratcheting sockets wont fit.

apologies if this has already been said or is not helpful