MT-07 tool recommendations

[BruceWayne911]

Just bought the following items for my 2019 MT-07. What tools do I need to install these items? Also what tools do you recommend that I buy? I already bought a Pitbull rear stand.

Does anybody know where I can get the service manual for the 2019 mt-07?

GB Racing Engine Cover Set Yamaha FZ-07 / MT-07 / XSR700

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The nylon GB Racing’s Engine Cover Set quickly bolts OVER your engine...

 

Shogun Frame Sliders Yamaha FZ-07 / MT-07 / XSR700

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This frame slider is made of shatter-proof and abrasion-resistant...

 

Fork Slider Crash Protector | Yamaha FZ-07 / MT-07 / XSR700

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Fork slider crash protectors add style to your bike while providing you...

 

Rear Axle Slider | Yamaha FZ07 / MT07 / XSR700

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Protect your Yamaha and allow for easy mounting on your rear stand...

 

USB DC Outlet - Yamaha Motor Canada

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Edited May 18, 2021 by BruceWayne911

[stickshift]

A set of metric hex wrenches are essential, as many of the fasteners are hex sockets.

I like the Bondhus brand hex wrenches - very strong and made in the USA. A T-handle set is handy too, but if you were to get just one go for the L-wrench as they can fit into tight spots more easily.

[BruceWayne911]

Here are the tools I decided on. Let me know if there is anything else you would suggest.

 

 

[Loch]

Your list looks pretty good overall, but as a tradesman who uses most of these tools daily I'd change a few things.

I don't see any sockets for your ratchet drivers, make sure you have a comprehensive set of 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 in drive sockets. Deep sockets for 1/4 and 3/8 highly recommended, make sure you have extensions too. 

I highly recommend the bondhus hex key set, metric and imperial over the ones you have in your cart. Ive had a set for 3+ years now, and I know millwrights who have used the set daily for 10+ years and they are still fresh.

Also, I don't recommend getting a screwdriver bit set, the bits come in handy once in a while but a good set of permanent screwdrivers is much better, and nicer to use.

The craftsman T handles are nice, but not 100% necessary alongside the Allen key set if you are trying to save money. 

Adjustable wrenches are handy but oi recommended only as a last resort for things a regular wrench or socket won't fit. They have a tendency to round off bolt heads. 

Ratcheting wrenches are good as well, but sometimes the closed end is too bulky to fit into a tight spot. The bonus on them is if you can get the ratchet on, you need a lot less swing angle than a regular closed end wrench to get something undone.

If you want to invest in quality tools that will last a lifetime, I can give you my dream list of everything that I've needed to work on bikes over the years. Otherwise, always buy the best tool you can afford at the time, and if it breaks or doesn't do what you need it to do, then upgrade. Chances are you'll see yourself using the same tools over and over, and a few of them will sit in the bottom of the toolbox and get used once in a while. But you won't know which until you get them all

Speaking of toolbox, get one with drawers. If you want a portable tool carrier, get a bag with slots/pouches. If you've got a work bench, get a vice with soft jaws. It will get used almost every time you take something off the bike. If you have wall space, get a peg board. Organization helps work flow soooooo much

[Loch]

Oh and a swingarm stand for sure

[BruceWayne911]

11 minutes ago, Loch said:

Oh and a swingarm stand for sure

I bought a Pitbull rear stand.

[mjh937]

Get some JIS screwdrivers.  The “Phillips” screws are not really Phillips.  JIS is just a little bit different and it makes a big difference having the correct screwdriver, especially with screws that are very tight. 

[BruceWayne911]

5 minutes ago, mjh937 said:

Get some JIS screwdrivers.  The “Phillips” screws are not really Phillips.  JIS is just a little bit different and it makes a big difference having the correct screwdriver, especially with screws that are very tight. 

Can you provide a link to one?

[D.A.]

On 5/19/2021 at 7:21 PM, BruceWayne911 said:

Here are the tools I decided on...

Wow. You aren’t horsing around!

Ditto what @Loch said about needing a comprehensive socket set. I own a gazillion different tools but when working on my motorcycles, I’m reaching for the socket set 95% of the time. 

Now, when I say socket set, I mean anything that can attach to (or sub for) a ratchet driver. For me that includes a set of hex bit sockets, extenders, a T-handle, a pivot elbow and the large sockets that don’t usually come with a set so you have to buy them a la carte (17mm for oil drain plug, 19mm for front axle nut, 22mm for front fork cap bolts and 27mm for rear axle nut):

The main reason “socket-friendly” is so important is that at some point during each task, you’re going to need to torque the fasteners down, and since the torque wrench itself is a ratchet driver, you’ll want everything to be compatible with it. 

For that reason, while I needed JIS screwdriver capability as suggested by @mjh937, I also wanted those screwdrivers to work with the ratchet system, so instead of buying actual screwdrivers with handles, I bought a set of JIS bits:

Edited May 23, 2021 by D.A.

[D.A.]

5 hours ago, BruceWayne911 said:

Can you provide a link to one?

Here’s a link to the JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) bits I bought for $10.98:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0751891B5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

NOTE: They don’t attach directly to a ratchet driver. Instead you attach a 7mm deep socket to the ratchet (or T-handle) and stick the JIS bits into the 7mm socket.

Also, as @mjh937 mentioned, while a Phillips head bit and a JIS cross bit may look very similar to the naked eye, the pitch on them is totally different. A Phillips head is designed to cam out (meaning push itself out) when a certain amount of force is applied. This works fine for Phillips head screws but will tear up the heads of JIS screws. 

Once you try them (and compare to Phillips heads screwdrivers) you will instantly understand what I’m talking about. 

What’s bizarre is that all of the cross head screws on the Yamaha motorcycles I’ve owned are JIS yet the under-seat tool kits Yamaha gives you with the bikes all have plain ol’ Phillips head screwdrivers which will mangle the heads as soon as you tighten the screws. 

CAUTION: Some of the screwdrivers described as JIS on Amazon and eBay are really just Phillips head screwdrivers and are of no use to you. The ones linked above, though, are legit, as are other products made by Vessel in Japan. 

Edited May 20, 2021 by D.A.

[BruceWayne911]

What torque wrench size is the best? Or should I get all 3?

1/4-1/2-3/8

[D.A.]

Another socket-related item you will likely need is a set of adapters that allow you to connect tools of different sizes to one another, like when you need to put a 1/2”-drive socket on a 3/8” torque wrench.

I use these adapters all the time:

 

https://www.amazon.com/ARES-70007-Extentsion-Conversion-Vanadium/dp/B014Q9ELJQ/ref=pd_di_sccai_5/132-5621052-8757956?pd_rd_w=Glo1o&pf_rd_p=c9443270-b914-4430-a90b-72e3e7e784e0&pf_rd_r=ZQ91P2F28RC3WNP85RJ4&pd_rd_r=6f77337a-339e-4d29-832d-09235c2ec695&pd_rd_wg=zNx93&pd_rd_i=B014Q9ELJQ&psc=1

 

[BruceWayne911]

Is it possible to buy just the sockets without buying another ratchet?

[D.A.]

On 5/19/2021 at 10:06 PM, BruceWayne911 said:

What torque wrench size is the best? Or should I get all 3?

1/4-1/2-3/8

I don’t know that there’s a “best” per se. The goal is to buy one that’s well made and accommodates the range of torque settings on the bike. On the FZ/MT-07, that range goes from 0.72 ft-lbs for the brake lever pivot bolt to 80 ft-lbs for the swingarm’s pivot shaft nut.

Could turn out you’ll need 2 different torque wrenches to cover that range. The one I have is made by AmPro. It’s 3/8”. Bought it 20 years ago. It covers 10-80 ft-lbs. The scale on it goes all the way down to 1 ft-lb but it’s only guaranteed to be accurate starting at 10.

On 5/19/2021 at 10:12 PM, BruceWayne911 said:

Is it possible to buy just the sockets without buying another ratchet?

Sure, there are sets available without ratchet drivers. You can also get sockets a la carte, buying just the sizes you need, one socket at a time.

Here’s a link to a set w/o ratchets:

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T9GB7J2/?coliid=I3C0IP0JQBZWLC&colid=3UD6OZ94LF6DC&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

 

Edited May 22, 2021 by D.A.

[Loch]

I recommend getting a socket set with ratchets, they go on sale often and they'll have almost everything you could need. I have a couple Stanley sets, craftsman makes a nice one with drawers 

https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Mechanics-Drawer-216-Piece-CMMT99206/dp/B085B8YGDJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=socket+set&qid=1621480624&sr=8-8

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Mechanic-s-Tool-Set-230-Piece-H230MTS/203414915#overlay

Don't pay attention to the number of pieces too much, usually they add shitty Allen keys or screwdriver bits to inflate the numbers. 

If you get a JIS bit set like mentioned above, all you should need is a good flat head driver and maybe a tiny jis/Philips for small screws. 

You can get long or short hex key drivers that go on a ratchet wrench, I would consider them a luxury more than a necessity 

Once you get a feel for how tight small/medium bolts should be, you should get away with just one torque wrench. 1/2 or 3/8 drive, up to 100 ft-lbs will do just about anything bike or car related. A couple adapters between 1/4-3/8-1/2 inch are super useful, some sets come with them. 

Skip the T-handles for now and just get the regular set of hex keys, I would consider them a luxury as well. A T-handle driver like @D.A. posted above is nice as well, but also a bit of a luxury. 

A deadblow hammer or rubber mallet is super handy at times, a small ball peen will do the job if you have a block of wood to dampen it. 

If you're pulling wheels off, you'll need a 19 mm for the front (should come in a set) and a 27mm for the rear (definitely won't be in a set)

This list is probably overkill for the stuff you have to work on at the moment, but you won't regret having any of these tools down the road and they should fit in your budget. Keep an eye on local hardware stores for stuff to go on sale around father's day

If you're only concerned about installing the stuff you've purchased, you'll probably need a total of 4 different sockets, maybe 3 Allen wrenches, a screwdriver, and a torque wrench if you want to do it properly instead of just sending it home with a piece of pipe slid over the handle of your ratchet

[M. Hausknecht]

There is great advice here. I don't have much to add other than to emphasize that it seems wisest to view purchasing tools as a lifetime investment. I'm still using some tools I bought over 40 years ago. Buy the highest quality you can afford, take good care of them, and don't get rid of any function tool (even when you're "sure" you'll never need it again).

Actually, one other thing. Never get rid of good fasteners either. Despite your best efforts, you'll booger a fastener from time to time and having containers full of good but used fasteners can be a godsend. 

[D.A.]

I totally agree with all of @Loch’s advice except his comment about hex bit sockets being a luxury. In my opinion they are as much of a necessity as normal sockets.

When you (meaning @BruceWayne911) install your new frame sliders and generator/clutch covers, you will have to remove several socket head screws and when you reinstall them, you’ll want to properly torque them down. Allen wrenches (a.k.a. hex keys) aren’t going to do you much good in that scenario. Instead you’ll want a hex bit socket on a torque wrench. 

Allen wrenches can handle a lot of chores just fine. However, while I own an extensive set of them, I rarely pull them out of their case because I can work so much faster with a hex bit socket on a ratchet driver. For instance, while you can certainly remove your driver’s seat with an Allen key, it’s kind of a PITA, whereas using a ratchet driver with a hex bit socket on a 10” extension makes it an easy, 15-second job. 

There at times when you will definitely want the Allen keys, though. For instance, when you are installing your new axle sliders, you’ll need 2 hex tools that are the same size (5mm I believe). The logical solution is to hold one side steady with a 5mm Allen key while tightening the other side with a 5mm hex bit socket on a ratchet driver. 

Also: Great point @Loch brought up about sliding a piece of pipe over the end of the ratchet driver. This is exactly how I remove super-tight fasteners like engine mount bolts and the rear axle nut. Those can be VERY tough to loosen with just a ratchet driver alone. But slip a 3-foot length of pipe over the ratchet driver handle to increase leverage and those fasteners will come off with hardly any effort whatsoever. 

Another option is to buy a breaker bar but quite honestly, a piece of pipe works better. 

Edited May 20, 2021 by D.A.

[DewMan]

I can't say I've never done it.. but it's not recommended to put a cheater bar on a ratchet.

A cheap breaker bar is far less likely to break when you need to gorilla a bolt. You risk breaking ratchet teeth putting too much torque on a ratchet head.

[FZ not MT]

Always good to have a tap and die set. Mine has come in handy on more occasions than you would think, especially if you are dealing with used motorcycles. Here's a basic Craftsman metric version - you can always go with a bigger set too (damn shame they are now made in China). It would be nice to have a list of the thread info on all the nuts and bolts on the FZ/MT-07. Excluding the ones inside the motor, I'll bet that list isn't that long, but who knows???

https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Piece-Metric-Tap-Die/dp/B0036J63L2/ref=sr_1_1?crid=22E9F8SM8X4L3&dchild=1&keywords=craftsman+metric+tap+and+die+set&qid=1621529014&sprefix=craftman+metric+tap%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-1

 

 

Edited May 20, 2021 by FZ not MT

[Loch]

I was joking about using that instead of a torque wrench lol

There are a lot of tools you will acquire and use often over time, but for now the basics you'll need is pretty much just Allen keys/hex key sockets, a metric socket set with ratchets, a JIS screwdriver, and a medium torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs

[BruceWayne911]

You only need metric tools for Japanese motorcycles right?

[D.A.]

19 minutes ago, BruceWayne911 said:

You only need metric tools for Japanese motorcycles right?

That is correct. 

[BruceWayne911]

I decided to spend a little extra money on a torque wrench since I here its one of the most important tools.

Which torque wrench would you recommend? I'm looking for something $100-$125. 

Also foe my first torque which size should I get first? 1/4-3/8-1/2?

[7fold]

57 minutes ago, BruceWayne911 said:

I decided to spend a little extra money on a torque wrench since I here its one of the most important tools.

Which torque wrench would you recommend? I'm looking for something $100-$125. 

Also foe my first torque which size should I get first? 1/4-3/8-1/2?

It kind of depends on how high you're torqueing things - the 1/2" is for higher torque applications (things like lug nuts or our axle nuts) and is what I bought initially. I recently picked up a smaller 3/8" electronic torque adapter for lower torque applications (I used it when putting on my frame sliders and case savers).

Typically, you want to use a torque wrench to torque things in the middle of it's adjustment range, you don't want to use a 1/2" torque wrench to torque something down to like 6 ft/lbs as that's just too light to really get an accurate torque using that large of a wrench. On the opposite end, you wouldn't want to try and max out a 1/4" torque wrench on something like our axle nuts that require 77 ft/lbs - you'd need a bigger wrench to actually make sure you get there.

Also, if most of your sockets are 3/8" then you might be best suited with a 3/8" torque wrench so you don't have to get a whole new set of sockets if you're trying to consolidate. 

[D.A.]

On 5/21/2021 at 12:53 PM, 7fold said:

... if most of your sockets are 3/8" then you might be best suited with a 3/8" torque wrench ...

That’s the route I went. 90% of what I own is 3/8”-oriented so I bought a 3/8” torque wrench. I have a few large mm 1/2” sockets and some small mm 1/4” sockets which attach to 3/8” ratchets using adapters. 

As I mentioned previously (to @BruceWayne911), for the FZ/MT-07 you need to cover a torque range of 0.72 ft-lbs to 80 ft-lbs. I’ve never seen a torque wrench that could accommodate a range that wide. My 3/8” torque wrench covers 10 ft-lbs to 80 ft-lbs, meaning it doesn’t go as low as necessary, which requires me to “feel” (a.k.a. guesstimate) the correct tightness for low-torque fasteners, while on the other end of the spectrum, I’m sometimes using it near or at its maximum setting. Not the perfect scenario but it has nonetheless served me well for decades. 

Ideally you’d want multiple torque wrenches to cover various ranges — 1/2” for big fasteners, 3/8” for medium-sized faster and 1/4” for small fasteners. But having all three at this point in your motorcycling career would definitely be something I’d consider a luxury. One 3/8” torque wrench should work fine for you for now. Of course if money is no object, go for all three!

BTW while 1/2” and 3/8” torque wrenches are usually calibrated in foot-pounds (or Newton-meters), 1/4” torque wrenches are often in inch-pounds. But it’s easy to convert from inch-pounds to foot-pounds once you understand that 12 in-lbs equals 1 ft-lb; 120 in-lbs equals 10 ft-lbs; etc  

To convert to or from Newton-meters (Nm), you can use a phone app like UNITS PLUS.

 

Edited May 23, 2021 by D.A.