biljardboll01 Posted April 22, 2021 Share Posted April 22, 2021 Hey there! I recently bought a MT-07 and from the guy I bought it from I received an Arrow Exhaust. He had the original exhaust on since he had it inspected on (cant reach certain DB from the inspector guy where I live) and now when I installed the Arrow it has some electronical issue.. We checked the fuses and one green 30amp fuse was damaged and we replaced it with a new one and then it fired up again but then shut down quite immediately.. What couldve gone wrong? It ran perfectly with the original system on and my dad drove it home a long run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biljardboll01 Posted April 22, 2021 Author Share Posted April 22, 2021 Could it be some kind of parasitic draw to the battery? Could I have accidentally left the switch for starting it on and that couldve killed the battery? Would that blow a fuse?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Civiltechyyc Posted April 22, 2021 Share Posted April 22, 2021 Start with the basics - Air, Fuel, Spark, Combustion. Then move onto checking the battery with the bike off and on. It almost sounds like a kickstand switch malfunction. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triple Jim Posted April 22, 2021 Share Posted April 22, 2021 20 minutes ago, biljardboll01 said: Could I have accidentally left the switch for starting it on and that couldve killed the battery? Would that blow a fuse?? No, that would not have blown a fuse. A fuse blows when the current through it exceeds its rating. Leaving something on just makes it keep drawing its normal current, and fuses are chosen so the normal current in a circuit is less than the fuse's rating. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seven Posted April 22, 2021 Share Posted April 22, 2021 Did the second fuse blow? Perhaps 2 unrelated problems? Is it possible the exhaust is plugged which might cause the bike to stall out after starting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biljardboll01 Posted April 23, 2021 Author Share Posted April 23, 2021 8 hours ago, Civiltechyyc said: Start with the basics - Air, Fuel, Spark, Combustion. Then move onto checking the battery with the bike off and on. It almost sounds like a kickstand switch malfunction. 2 days ago when I installed the exhaust it fired up perfectly couple of times.. no worries. It was rainy so I didnt go for a ride but yesterday it was better weather so I fired it up and started perfectly and then everything just went black.. changed fuse and started again and then black.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biljardboll01 Posted April 23, 2021 Author Share Posted April 23, 2021 7 hours ago, seven said: Did the second fuse blow? Perhaps 2 unrelated problems? Is it possible the exhaust is plugged which might cause the bike to stall out after starting? Just one! The green one closest to the exhaust. Texted the guy I bought it from and he had the exhaust on just a week ago without any problem.. just removed it for the inspector guy to pass it and then reinstall it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElGonzales Posted April 23, 2021 Share Posted April 23, 2021 (edited) Many people damage the wire which connects the O2 Sensor while replacing the exhaust. They are to lazy / dumb to disconnected it before turning the sensor 20 times... This is the only electrical thing related to the exhaust but get it's current via the 10A Ignition fuse which should blow up before the 30A main fuse. The 30A main fuse is in line before all the other smaller fuses and the only device which is connected directly to it, is the voltage regulator/rectifier. If a 30A fuse blows up it is no "parasitic drain", it is a full and complete short circuit to ground / the metal frame You can replace the 30A fuse by a thick copper wire or something. Then by the rising smoke, melting isolation or a little fire you will easily see the spot where the fault is located ... just joking Take a look at the manual. #4 should be the 30A main fuse Is this the fuse which blows up? Edited April 23, 2021 by ElGonzales 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biljardboll01 Posted April 23, 2021 Author Share Posted April 23, 2021 (edited) 6 hours ago, ElGonzales said: Many people damage the wire which connects the O2 Sensor while replacing the exhaust. They are to lazy / dumb to disconnected it before turning the sensor 20 times... This is the only electrical thing related to the exhaust but get it's current via the 10A Ignition fuse which should blow up before the 30A main fuse. The 30A main fuse is in line before all the other smaller fuses and the only device which is connected directly to it, is the voltage regulator/rectifier. If a 30A fuse blows up it is no "parasitic drain", it is a full and complete short circuit to ground / the metal frame You can replace the 30A fuse by a thick copper wire or something. Then by the rising smoke, melting isolation or a little fire you will easily see the spot where the fault is located ... just joking Take a look at the manual. #4 should be the 30A main fuse Is this the fuse which blows up? Thanks for your help and reply! Should the 10A blow before the 30A? Strange thing is that I was able to twist the key after replacing the blown 30A fuse and got response from the system but wasnt quick enough to fire it up but still got the screen to show. Could it be the 02 sensor that got twisted or "destroyed" and causes the fuse to blow? Yes, its the #4 fuse. It's located under the passenger seat and the green one closest to the exhaust! Changed it out after the first one blew and then the one I replaced it with did the same thing. Edited April 23, 2021 by biljardboll01 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElGonzales Posted April 23, 2021 Share Posted April 23, 2021 (edited) Sry, had to take my old dog for a walk I assume the metal strip inside of the 30A fuse will glow like a light bulb for some seconds until it cracks If it blows up, a power of more than 360 Watt is coming out of the battery in this moment! (30A x 12V =360 Watt) Yes, the 10A should blow before the 30A. I quickly drew a (very) simplified schematic: The square above the Alternator is the voltage regulator, left side of the fuel tank. A short circuit caused by the removing/installing of the O2 Sensor between the fuse terminal and the sensor should destroy the smaller fuse first. And the ECU monitors the function of the O2 Sensor, you should have an error code in the dash If you don't turn the key the 30A stays intact? Check the O2 Sensor cable, just to be sure. Red/White wire is connected to fuse / battery. And the Ignition Fuse, should look regular/normal. Dog tax, to brighten up the day! This is what dog thinks about fuses: Edited April 23, 2021 by ElGonzales 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerzee Posted April 23, 2021 Share Posted April 23, 2021 You might make certain that the 'correct' value fuse is installed for the O2 sensor, if you think it is a concern. If the fuse blows as soon as you turn on the key (or before you start the bike up), you have a dead short somewhere. If that is the case, you could try pulling all other fuses, and trying the main switch again. If the main fuse blows the problem is after the main switch, and before it feeds power to all the other fuses. If not, turn of switch, and replace fuses one at a time, turning off power between each 'insertion', to at least figure out which 'leg' of the wiring may be causing trouble.... A PITA, but it may help you narrow down the problem, which could be totally unrelated to the exhaust install, although I would check any wires near mounting points... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElGonzales Posted April 23, 2021 Share Posted April 23, 2021 (edited) Pulling fuses one after the other and trying is one way and works. Maybe some error codes will stay in the ecu. If you have a device to measure electric resistance and know how to use it, I made a graphic some years ago for my own use that shows the regular electric resistance of some 'legs' of the wiring you can expect: https://abload.de/img/messwertefuses4tjf0.jpg It's not english, but you just have to -leave the main switch off -pull out the fuse -contact the red (positive) probe of your multimeter / ohmmeter to the marked terminal contact -contact the black (negative) probe to negative battery terminal and compare the values. Something should be 0,7 kOhm and you measure a lower value like 0.1 Ohm? Theres the path with the problem. Remember, sometimes the outer isolation/sheath is damaged and you have to move the wires around to find it. Or a wire is squeezed between metal parts, sharp metal edges cut in it... Edited April 23, 2021 by ElGonzales 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerzee Posted April 23, 2021 Share Posted April 23, 2021 A handy piece of information, and good technique if you know how to use a DVM. I don't understand the German text, but get the gist of the diagram .Nice work, ElGonzales. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElGonzales Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 Solution: We had some conversation and after we made sure the O2 Sensor and it's wiring/harness is not the problem, the logic lead to the area where the switched voltage comes back from the main switch on it's way to the smaller fuses. Then he really located a damaged spot in the isolation, left side of steering head. After he put some tape around it the bike worked fine. That was the last thing I've heard some days ago 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerzee Posted May 3, 2021 Share Posted May 3, 2021 Thanks for the update. Glad the problem was located, and a solution found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
user1 Posted October 28, 2021 Share Posted October 28, 2021 On 4/23/2021 at 1:51 AM, ElGonzales said: Many people damage the wire which connects the O2 Sensor while replacing the exhaust. They are to lazy / dumb to disconnected it before turning the sensor 20 times... This is the only electrical thing related to the exhaust but get it's current via the 10A Ignition fuse which should blow up before the 30A main fuse. The 30A main fuse is in line before all the other smaller fuses and the only device which is connected directly to it, is the voltage regulator/rectifier. If a 30A fuse blows up it is no "parasitic drain", it is a full and complete short circuit to ground / the metal frame You can replace the 30A fuse by a thick copper wire or something. Then by the rising smoke, melting isolation or a little fire you will easily see the spot where the fault is located ... just joking Take a look at the manual. #4 should be the 30A main fuse Is this the fuse which blows up? EVERY PICTURE TELLS A STORY... ! Posting the repair manual data to the original post is a major contribution.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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