Evanlamarr88 Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 My bike got stolen and recovered. The thieves attempted to hot wire the bike by cutting the ignition wires and twisting a couple together. I’ve done my best to solder them back together as they were (I’ve done so, but am new to soldering), yet still get the same “5d-19” error as when the wires were cut (and 2 were pinched back together). I’ve looked online and and discovered via this post that the error code means that the side stand switch had an error. However, I’ve taken the side stand off and discovered that everything there is pretty well intact. Any idea what the problem is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mossrider Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 If you've removed the side stand did you reconnect the circuit with a jump wire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerzee Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 Do a continuity check across the switch, and make sure all the connections are 'intact' to the harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evanlamarr88 Posted March 14, 2021 Author Share Posted March 14, 2021 2 minutes ago, Jerzee said: Do a continuity check across the switch, and make sure all the connections are 'intact' to the harness. What is a continuity check, and how do I do it? I know very little about wiring/electricity with engines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evanlamarr88 Posted March 14, 2021 Author Share Posted March 14, 2021 13 minutes ago, mossrider said: If you've removed the side stand did you reconnect the circuit with a jump wire? What’s a jump wire? Where do I reconnect the circuit? And, if necessary, how do I take the clutch pedal lever off to remove the plate that covers the kick stand switch wire to trace it? It’s spring-activated, so I’m worried about releasing the spring and not being able to put it back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mossrider Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 The side stand switch wire is routed on the inside of the left rear frame down loop and has a little connector about where your inner left ankle knob rests. It connects the side stand plunger sensor to the bikes harness and must be looped back on itself or the bike continually thinks the side stand is down. I'll add a pic when I can find it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerzee Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 If the problem is the side stand switch, The bike should start if you pull in the clutch, I believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evanlamarr88 Posted March 14, 2021 Author Share Posted March 14, 2021 4 minutes ago, mossrider said: The side stand switch wire is routed on the inside of the left rear frame down loop and has a little connector about where your inner left ankle knob rests. It connects the side stand plunger sensor to the bikes harness and must be looped back on itself or the bike continually thinks the side stand is down. I'll add a pic when I can find it As it is currently, the bike sputters repeatedly and consistently when I start it. Also, the gear indicator goes between blank and “-“ when I shift, and the bike slowly moves forward whenever I try to start it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerzee Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 18 minutes ago, Evanlamarr88 said: What is a continuity check, and how do I do it? I know very little about wiring/electricity with engines. It is a check to see if current is running through a circuit. You need a Volt ohm meter, or a 12 v bulb with some wires hanging off, like an old tail light or turn signal... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evanlamarr88 Posted March 14, 2021 Author Share Posted March 14, 2021 1 minute ago, Jerzee said: If the problem is the side stand switch, The bike should start if you pull in the clutch, I believe. It does not. See my reply to @mossrider Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerzee Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 Does the bike actually start, or sputters when you 'try' to start it. If it slowly moves forward, you may not be in neutral, and or the bike does not know it is in neutral. The starter motor does turn over though? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mossrider Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 Wait, so you've replaced the side stand o to the bike? Is it 'on' or 'off' the bike now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerzee Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 Was reading elsewhere on line, that this error code appeared when the key switch was not full turned to on. If they buggered up your key switch, it may need to be replaced. Another guy whose bike was stolen had the tumblers messed up, and when he turned the switch with a screwdriver, the code disappeared. If the wires were cut between the switch and harness, you may want to replace the switch, in case they tried to turn it with a screwdriver to force it to start... Best of luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evanlamarr88 Posted March 15, 2021 Author Share Posted March 15, 2021 1 hour ago, mossrider said: Wait, so you've replaced the side stand o to the bike? Is it 'on' or 'off' the bike now? I took it off to look at the sensor, and can’t tell any damage by looking at it. Have put it back on the bike now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mossrider Posted March 15, 2021 Share Posted March 15, 2021 15 minutes ago, Evanlamarr88 said: I took it off to look at the sensor, and can’t tell any damage by looking at it. Have put it back on the bike now. Look at the back side of the kickstand, behind the pivot. You should be able to see the switch and related wire. Follow it up about six inches and find the connector and make sure it is plugged in. I don't know how you took the kickstand off w/o disconnecting it or if maybe the thieve(s) did in an attempt to get it to run. But you did say you are getting a 'code' so it must have been tampered with. In any event, start here and systematically check things carefully. Don't just start wildly tearing into stuff you don't understand. Enlist knowledgeable help if this doesn't get you started. Your insurance should have paid to have things fixed when it was reported stolen/recovered? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElGonzales Posted March 15, 2021 Share Posted March 15, 2021 (edited) The ECU is checking the sidestand switch and sees a problem. The switch only has two states, opened (sidestand down) and closed (sidestand up). If this works, one can check by measuring at it's nearby connector mossrider mentioned with a multimeter (electrical resistance between the two black leads 0 Ohm or infinite high value). This is a good place to start. ( If this is not the root of the problem: I've checked the wiring diagramm. There is the Relay Unit (left of fuel tank) in between the ECU and the sidestand switch. The signal line which is used für the monitoring of the sidestand switch starts at the ECU as an black/red lead. It connects to a joint point and goes further to the Relay Unit. A person with electrical background could check this connection with the magical multimeter. In the Relay Unit the signal passes a diode which could be damaged, it's also possible to check this or the whole signal path from the ECU terminal to ground, depending on the sidestands position. But it is not so easy to explain with a few words. I will follow this thread, maybe I will take a picture if it makes sense. Just re-assembled my bike few days ago, I would have to remove the covers... ) The fault code says literally: "Sidestand switch. A break or disconnection of the black/red lead of the ECU is detected." Edited March 15, 2021 by ElGonzales 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evanlamarr88 Posted April 11, 2021 Author Share Posted April 11, 2021 So I took it to a shop, and they said the relay underneath the left tank cover was fried. $36 part with a total of $256 for labor. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triple Jim Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 10 cents to hit it with a hammer and $50 for knowing where to hit it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElGonzales Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 I know where to hit, but my boss gets the money Thanks for the reply, I will write this case into my little fault database. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minihim420 Posted August 14, 2022 Share Posted August 14, 2022 It's a ground issue My boyfriend rewired the ignition and the same error code was displayed on the computer and the bike would sound like it wanted to kick on, but would just sputter. Best of wishes to you fixing your bike ✌ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex_Who_Rides06 Posted April 15, 2023 Share Posted April 15, 2023 (edited) Hey all, These forums were a lot of help so I wanted to follow up with a solution that worked for me. After an attempted theft, I found the ignition wires cut on my FZ and the bike had no power. I had to replace the main relay fuse and reconnect the wires (I used heat shrink butt connectors- soldering is probably better but I’ve never done it and there was barely enough wire to work with). After this, the bike started and ran, but I got the dreaded “5D-19” error. I bought a sidestand elimination plug from Revzilla, but the problem persisted: the bike starts and runs, but as soon as the clutch is completely released, it dies. Also, the gear indicator is not displayed (just an empty screen) and the green Neutral light is constantly displayed. The solution was to buy a new starting circuit cutoff relay: part number:5VK-81950-51-00 for around $45. I found it at Partzilla. I had to take off the plastic fenders, but it’s not too terrible to get to. The relay is inside a gray rubber case behind the voltage regulator (gray rectangle with cooling ribs). Once replaced, the FZ is good as new! (Photo is from @ElGonzales in another thread) Edited April 15, 2023 by Alex_Who_Rides06 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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