Brembo 17RCS Corsa Corta master cylinder with Spiegler brake lines on Yamaha XSR700

[Pursuvant]

Thanks to our friend @klx678 for some great efforts during the research of this front brake mod, and some more wisdom from @mossrider along the way. This is a front brake only mod, nothing is changed about the rear brake. And best to our friend @D.A. who continues recovering from a nasty highside practicing knee dragging

Stock bike OEM master cylinder is 15mm and caliper pistons are 27/30mm for a hydraulic area ratio of about 29:1 (an entry level brake). This Brembo 17RCS mod pushes that ratio to about 22:1. Before going there I want to say please do the background work for yourself and just know what you are about for this one. I cover the controls at all times, and use two finger clutch and one finger braking - everything I say in this mod is from that perspective. This mod has been tested with the ABS disabled and enabled by fuse pulling (without loss of speedo). I run without the ABS most of the time.

Prerequisite
EBC HH Brake Pads
Front: EBC FA252HH

Key parts as reviewed
110.C740.40 | Brembo 17RCS Corsa Corta Standard (long lever)  | kurveygirl.com for all things Brembo
110.A263.85-1 | Brembo RCS reservoir kit in smoke | kurveygirl.com for all things Brembo

Spieglerusa.com
Phase 1 - connect brembo to abs "IN" port with new line, use bike's existing rubber brake lines from abs "OUT" port down to calipers
1 x braided stainless steel brake line 560mm long and has a straight banjo fitting (type 000) on one end and a 20 degree banjo fitting (type 002) on the other end.
1 x 20-00001-11 (single banjo bolt M10x1.0 in silver anodized for Brembo connection)
6 x 09-29001-00 crush washer aluminum

Phase 2 - replace brake lines from abs "out" port to calipers with braided stainless steel
1 x braided stainless steel brake line 736mm long and has a straight banjo fitting (type 000) on one end and a 20 degree banjo fitting (type 002) on the other end.
1 x braided stainless steel brake line 515mm long and has a straight banjo fitting (type 000) on both ends.
10 x 09-29001-00 crush washer aluminum
1 x 20-00102-15 , double banjo bolt M10x1.25
1 x 20-00002-15 , banjo bolt M10x1.25

Support parts/extra replacements
6219613 | copper crush washers | Qty 15 | kurveygirl.com
105.1502.10 | Brembo bleed screw rubber cap | Qty 3 | kurveygirl.com
110.A263.89 | Brembo replacement RCS cap and flag | Qty 2 | kurveygirl.com
90464-18002 | Qty 2 Genuine Yamaha Grommet Tab Locator | Yamaha
Wire-M187-F110 | Male .187" to Female .110" Conversion wire (brake switch wire-up w/no cutting of bike harness | Qty 2 | T-Molding.com

Spiegler created a kit S-YA0324 from my brake line parts list - thank you!
After I finished this mod and was confident in the lengths and materials was good to go, Spiegler was great and asked if they could create a "kit" by part number called the "Yamaha XSR700 ABS Front Brake Line Kit" for Brembo RCS master cylinders, so anyone who wants to do this mod can have a single Spiegler part number that takes you to the Spiegler ordering page for this kit, where you choose the color of lines and fittings and Spiegler will make sure you get all the other brake line parts you need to do this mod using my line dimensions, including extras like new grommets on the lines (so you don't have to re-use the Yamaha grommets like I did). Go to the Spiegler home page and search for this part number "S-YA0324", you will find some pics of my bike there to reference for how to route lines and stuff. You choose the colors for the brake line & fittings, Spiegler sends you the right brake lines, fittings/angles, with grommets ready to go. Thank you Spiegler and Matthias Schaub http://mschaub@spieglerusa.com, he was a great help.

Installation
You can install the 17RCS with only one new brake line from Speigler, that's the "Phase 1" mod with only 1 new braided ss brake line connecting the Brembo 17RCS to the abs "IN" port (and leave the rest of the front brake lines the stock OEM rubber). I prototype tested the bike in this Phase 1 configuration, then pulled it down and did the Phase 2 where all OEM front brake lines are pulled and replaced by Spiegler braided stainless steel lines.

You can install this brake in a conventional handlebar/control location, or if you are like me you may want to locate the 17RCS exactly in a certain position relative to the grip, and move the starter/harzard lights control housing up the handler bar to make room for what matters. *****EDIT***** MOD 2023.05 Moved the handlebar control switch to the more common location on the handlebar - read down this thread to find things to be aware of when positioning controls. *****END EDIT*****

Brake light switch included is good quality, and using the "Wire-M187-F110" spade flag connector wires you can attach it to the bikes harness without cutting the harness at all, the two "flag" type connectors for the existing brake can be plugged into these "Wire-M187-F110" wires and then that short piece of adapter wire can be "clamped" onto the Brembo brake light switch wires from the RCS17 switch. Brake light function is flawless, just do a good job of waterproofing, I used a "jacket" of heat shrink tubing shrunk "partially" to make a more snug & watertight .187 flag connections for these handlebar brake wires.

Line Routing
Let's stop dragging that abs sensor wire down the left fork leg to the left caliper, back up and over the fender, and down to the right caliper where the wheel sensor is located. In this mod, the Spiegler line from the abs "out" port travels down the right fork leg to the right caliper together with the abs sensor cable to the double banjo bolt connection, then the brake line jumps over the fender to connect to the left brake caliper via single banjo bolt.

The brake line passes thru the bike's grommet locator (rigid metal bracket under the triple tree). It "skips" passing thru the 90464-18002 Yamaha grommet locator at the bottom of the triple tree, only the abs sensor wire is passed thru this locator. If you try to pass the braided stainless steel brake line thru both of these locators at the bottom of the triple tree like OEM did with the rubber brake lines, it would create a totally unnecessary and unwanted sharp bend in the Spiegler line. The brake line is secured in the bike's rigid metal bracket grommet locator under the triple tree by "reusing" the grommet from the OEM original rubber line (I removed it and reused it, but if you order from Spiegler they will slide this rubber grommet on the line for you, no need to reuse). I increased the "grip" that this grommet has on the Spiegler line, by cutting a small piece of rubber from an old inner tube (about 1/4" wide and long enough to go around the Spiegler brake line one time) and then wrapped the "reused" original grommet around that inner tube wrap. The important thing is that the Spiegler line is secured at this point so it can not slide up or down - that ensures the proper length down to the caliper that will flex with the suspension is always maintained. Also the "over the fender" brake line does not scuff or touch the plastic fender, and the brake line coming down the fork leg is nicely supported and "stout" enough so it does not flap around in the airstream at speed.

The abs sensor wire is "zip tied" to the Spiegler brake line traveling down the right fork to the right caliper. The abs sensor wire has a grommet that was originally used to hold the sensor wire in place as it passed thru a metal locator bracket at the left caliper. This abs grommet on the sensor wire is in just the right place to now be moved up to the rigid metal locator bracket under the triple tree and clamped along with the brake line at this securing point. The abs wire then travels on up thru the Yamaha 90464-18002 Yamaha grommet locator and on up the triple tree to the abs.

At the abs, this sensor wire now will have a surplus of length before it plugs into the wiring harness next to the abs unit under the right fuel tank panel. You can nicely protect this extra length by wrapping two loops around the wire retaining bracket at the frame yoke that is used to keep the bike's electrical harness from rubbing the frame when turning the bike.

Also before I plugged this abs sensor wire back into the wiring harness, I took about 3" of large "shrink wrap" and placed it over this abs sensor wire connector end with a zip tie (but do not shrink it), to create a more waterproof "boot" around the connector. After plugging the connector into the harness, this extra boot makes a much better waterproof cover for that abs connection.

Also, at this same location at the yoke of the triple tree/frame, I used a wrap of inner tube to add extra protection for the bike's wiring harness that passes thru this location (where the Speigler brake lines are moving and flexing when the bike is steered). One nice wrap around the wiring harness with the rubber inner tube piece, zip tie it in place, and the harness is protected from those flexing brake lines that might chaffe away at the harness without protection. 

Banjos at the ABS
I think reusing the stock banjo bolts is best approach, the allen heads are easier to get a wrench on because close clearance with fuel tank above abs and they are steel so no worries reusing. I used (always new) copper crush washers (aluminum is fine too), and I picked some that were .5mm thick, because Spiegler banjo fittings are a little "taller" than the oem fittings, using a .5mm washer gives some length back to the banjo bolt threads screwing into the abs unit.

Finger tighten both IN and OUT line banjos at abs and check all your routing (my pics will help) and clearance behind the air scoop (put scoop on and check the banjo positions) before you commit and tighten down on the crush washers. 

17RCS Corsa Corta Review
Quality, fit, and finish is of course the "cat's meow". It is in a way, like Brembo likes to suggest, a work of art - but I don't give squat for looks I want results. 17RCS delivers.

You could order the 17RCS standard version, or the 17RCS Corsa Corta. I changed my mind at the last minute and ordered the Corsa Corta, you pick up an adjustable "free play" adjuster. Damn it turned out to be my favorite thing among everything that is a favorite on the Brembo 17RCS Corsa Corta.

You can go look at features of this front brake master cylinder all over the web, please do, I will not repeat any of it here except to say what I like about the 17RCS. Expect to have more time and effort involved in brake bleeding and testing for weeping banjos & tightening to seal those crush washers. I used a reverse brake bleeder "V5 DIY 2104-B Brake Bleeder" available from Pheonix Systems or from NAPA sold under "Carlyle Tools" banner, or on the web everywhere car parts are sold.

Test your brakes every night for a week after bleeding by doing this (to remove additional air from system AND show any "weeping" from banjo crush washers). At night you can use a couple zip ties (cable ties) to hold the lever under moderate braking pressure all night like you were squeezing the lever firmly - firmly but no need for crushing force pulling the lever. In the morning, hold the lever at this squeezed location and cut the zip tie, then slowly release the lever. It can "suck" any accumulated air bubbles at the top of the system back into the master cylinder where they travel up into the brake reservoir. It helps get air out of the system AND you can go look closely at all the banjos, if they are leaking go slow but tighten them a very little amount until they stop leaking each time you check and find weeping. You know what to do. I also repeatedly bleed the 17RCS first every day after releasing the zip tie (yes, the 17RCS has it's own bleeder screw on the master cylinder body), and then bleed off the top of the right caliper where the new "double" banjo bolt is, and then the left caliper where the "single" banjo bolt is. Pump off the left caliper to force any air in the line that jumps over the fender (and is trapped in the line over the fender) out of the system. Enough about bleeding, you know.

Initial Bite
You control how much free play there is in the lever before hydraulic brake pressure begins (only on the Corsa Corta). I really like running it with very little free play, as soon as I begin to pull with my finger I'm into the initial bite, you may hate that but hey, that's why it's adjustable.

Brake character
It's linear. I mean completely linear, the initial bite all the way to howling tire (I run with the ABS disabled much of the time). The stock lever, you begin pulling, and pulling, and pulling and still not getting anywhere keep pulling then it starts to build but not enough, you keep pulling, pulling until you are really standing on it and finally you get the serious increasing brake pressure needed for serious stopping or emergency. Not that way at all with the 17RCS. From the initial first bite, there is much less additional lever movement. As the lever moves, the braking force builds rapidly but at the same increasing rate as a function of lever movement. And there is no softness, anywhere. It feels firm all the time, even when only applying a small braking force. Firm does not mean "hard" to pull. It means every increase in lever movement must be intentional by the rider and you feel the result, even though it gives the impression that you are not pulling any harder, you simply are intentionally braking. With the ABS disabled, one finger braking can make that wheel howl, but it is not in any way a "touchy" or "grabby" brake. I have to squeeze with conscious intention to stop, but I can achieve even emergency stops with my index finger. And the feel is superb - it's interesting how a firm purposeful master cylinder also provides so much more confidence and feedback while still being linear and firm when compared to the entry level OEM brake feel. I know what is going on at the tire, I feel it thru my finger as well as all my other riding senses. I can really feel what's happening, that's what it's like.

This brake and you
You could hate everything about this brake that I like. It's how I brake and what I have always preferred in brakes, I go to lengths to make front brakes on previous bikes work somewhat like this one. But this is the easy way to get everything I want, I don't have to keep trying out my options to see how close I am to what I like. This brake puts me there, and you may hate that place. There, that is my disclaimer, don't do this because it will kill you and like all my mods, they all cause athletes foot fungus. My hand strength is diminishing because reasons, this 17RCS with adjustable lever leverage will keep me riding for some time to come. @klx678 did me a great favor jumping into my design with both feet early on and taking it to Brembo to get them to "sign off" on this ABS bike application & fitment, thank you amigo.

I'm expecting there will be things I remember need said to help explain, so I will edit post as needed to keep it straight

 

[D.A.]

This is a very comprehensive write-up!

[Pursuvant]

2023.03 Maintenance parts

 

The brake fluid reservoir "diaphragm" has lost it's shape (inside reservoir to keep fluid covering the fluid pickup)

 

    BREMBO Reservoir Cap & Diaphragm - Size : 45ml (110430890) (110.4308.90) × 1

 

I flush the lines down with clean brake fluid every year, that's about all this mod needs other than pads and "spring" that keeps pads from rattling in each caliper. Maybe keep some of the pad retaining clips on hand, they get lost...

 

[Smitty]

I bypass the abs module and went with a brembo rcs 19. Is this too much for this bike it . Stops 

[M. Hausknecht]

11 hours ago, Smitty said:

I bypass the abs module and went with a brembo rcs 19. Is this too much for this bike it . Stops 

Your lever should be appreciably more difficult to squeeze (and get the braking force you desire)  and shouldn't move much compared to the stock master cylinder size. The larger master cylinder could also make it more difficult to modulate the amount of braking force you get. With steel-braided brake lines, I like the feel and power I get with an R6 master cylinder (16mm  versus the stock 15mm, I think) on my race bike without ABS. I typically use two fingers to brake hard and often only one for lighter braking. I wouldn't want anything bigger than a 17mm master on mine but if the 19  works for you, what I think shouldn't matter.

[Evill_Ed]

I have the Brembo 17mm RCS with steel braided lines on my Track FZ, I am very pleased with the feel and performance. I agree with @M. Hausknecht, I would not go bigger than 17mm. 

 

Ed

[sweetscience]

I've been busy this week.  I replaced/deleted my OEM ABS brake system, in place of Core SS lines front, spiegler rear,  Brembo RCS 17 master. Stahlbus bleeder valves. Still stock pads.  Have yet to try Brembo pads.

 

Edited May 7, 2023 by sweetscience
Spelling

[sweetscience]

Cleaned up the rear a bit.

[M. Hausknecht]

My Kramer came with Brembo pads; they're ok but I wouldn't pay extra for them. I prefer SBS Dual Sinter pads for the track (linear grip and excellent feel), and EBC HH pads for the street. I've used SBS Dual Carbon on my track 07 and like them; a bit more aggressive initial grip than the Dual Sinter pads.

[Pursuvant]

4 hours ago, sweetscience said:

I've been busy this week.  I replaced/deleted my OEM ABS brake system, in place of Core SS lines front, spiegler rear,  Brembo RCS 17 master. Staulbus bleeder valves. Still stock pads.  Have yet to try Brembo pads.

 

Pretty...

 

and pretty pretty for the win!

[klx678]

@PursuvantIn looking at the picture below, I see you moved the switch set inside.  I have a Vortex fat bar flat track bend bar that I want to mount, problem is I need to cut about 1" off each end of the bars and the stock master cylinder may not allow that cut, with it impinging on the fat portion of the bars because they are fat up to the bend.  I think it may hit the large part of the bars.   I think the Brembo master cylinder may do the job without hitting, but I'd prefer to keep the switches to the outside between the throttle and the master cylinder.

So the question is did you test the setup with the switch in normal position before the install?   I see how you set it up, but wonder why.

Did the switch hit the brake line?   Did you move the switch to the other side because of the lever bend?   Why the change?

[sweetscience]

Yeah that is odd.  Looks a bit too far off,  it may be a safety issue, because you'd have to remove your right hand from the grip just to operate the switches.  My guess is those are aftermarket bars, and the switch cables can't reach that far.

[Pursuvant]

20 hours ago, klx678 said:

@Pursuvant the question is did you test the setup with the switch in normal position before the install?   I see how you set it up, but wonder why.

Did the switch hit the brake line?   Did you move the switch to the other side because of the lever bend?   Why the change?

My memory has some limits these days. Here's what I know clearly - the reason for why it is as it is:

Two primary requirements. I wanted to keep the stock bars. I ordered the "long lever" Brembo master cyl (because I was after max leverage for weakening hands).

So working from those two conditions - to get  that long lever in the position that feels right, best leverage (relative to the grip), I gave Brembo preference and mounted it first. That forced the moving of the switch housing.

Note: two things, (1) I did test with the Brembo in standard config, and (2) there is a "short" lever available from Brembo with a different part number than my op parts list.

This much (above) I remember well.

Could I have put the switch outside the Brembo (standard config) ? Yes. I expect people all over the moto planet do it standard config. My fingers could have learned the lever easily.

Did the Brembo bump into anything (brake line, throttle cables, stuff) ? EDIT: WRONG**** No. I look at it today and I can see, nothing bumped into anything**** END WRONG

EDIT: WRONG**** So here is what I would do today, if I was doing it - I would not order the ss brake line until after I placed controls in standard config, and with a "short" lever if you want one. Because you will order the length you want, for your configuration.**** END WRONG The length of the SS brake line specified in the op parts list is fine, it fits in standard configuration or if the Brembo is moved outside as in my op.

[Pursuvant]

So I pulled it down because yes. Let's find out what the real deal is that I can't remember....

Yes, the control switch housing prevents the Brembo from being moved any closer to the switch than you see below when in standard handlebar configuration...

 

The control switch housing has a "post" on the underside that the wiring harness is zip-tied to, and you can see that post "bumping into" the master cylinder...

 

It's a short post with a 90 degree bend on the end, part of the housing, which creates the option of removing it, if necessary. If you remove it, you could still secure the wire harness inside of the housing with a very small zip tie, just large enough to prevent the harness wires from being pulled out of the housing...

 

Does it matter? Is the Brembo in the right position to clear the control switch housing in the standard configuration? Yes, it clears the control housing. Below is the lever in "hard braking" position, it has plenty of clearance with the control housing and it is underneath of the throttle control cables, so the Brembo master cylinder is fully functional in this standard configuration you see below (this is with the Brembo "long lever")...

 

But the Brembo lever does look like it's a little "short" relative to the grip, like the Brembo could be moved "outward" more to get the lever to better match the bar end...

 

I brake with 1 finger, so I don't care if the lever appears to be a little short. If I put everything back together as you see it above in standard configuration, I gain a little more "physical leverage" on the lever. That's because my index finger has "moved" outward about an inch. That doesn't sound like much, but leverage is increased.

So I'm going to put it back together as you see (tomorrow) when I can double check this improvement suggested by @klx678 and @sweetscience. Thanks for asking good questions, it's now an unexpected braking power improvement for me.

And it was easy to do, as you can see below...

 

 

 

 

[klx678]

I ask because I am considering the bar change, but the reservoir may cause me issues if it contacts the bar, where the radial master cylinder won't .  I prefer a shorter lever, which the regular mount position puts the standard lever in a short position. 

I only use two fingers on brakes, mostly out of habit from off roading, but also because I have small hands so my little finger won't even reach a brake lever.  I have no problem with the stock braking, so it isn't to get more braking power, but getting single finger braking would be nice.

Thanks for filling me in on what you have and the pictures.  If the last picture is a picture of what I think it is, I hope you heal up fast.  

 

[Pursuvant]

1 hour ago, klx678 said:

I ask because I am considering the bar change, but the reservoir may cause me issues if it contacts the bar

 

If you want some specific measures of anything while it's apart? Like maybe a bar end shot looking down the grip towards the control switch? I'm keeping this change to standard config, I can take pics and measures anytime if needed 

Looking at it this morning, the brake lever looks fine, it's not really short, it matches my clutch Vortex lever. It looks like levers are being protected by the bar ends

[sweetscience]

I bought an aero lever to replace the Brembo, because well, it gots MotoGP aero tech lol.  It's a Japanese company called Kohken, which I bought from Webike Japan.  IIRC, they come in 3 sizes :shorty, regular and long.  I got the regular size (same size as stock).  Good quality, and fitment.  There is a slightly different bend to it, but in a more ergonomic way.  

[klx678]

@Pursuvant  I'm good on what you have.   I am kind of hoping if I do something like this, that the OEM line will work for me.  I don't really want to go gonzo on it.    I figure if it would work that the line could be quickly swapped over and the fitting bled without having to go through the whole system, although it might not be a bad thing to have done to replace the original brake fluid.  It has been about 4 years, but not a lot of miles.

I'm also looking at the Braking and Nissin (Shindy) master cylinders as well.  I know they're not as adjustable, but at around a hundred less they might be a fair choice.  I'm trying to get some feedback on them in the ADVrider forum and probably should try the same here.

I remember someone commenting about buying one of the low buck ebay master cylinders.  I found the Adelin PX1 interesting, someone made a video of a tear down showing the machining and all, but then I saw where another rider had the adjuster screw threads strip off, when he pulled the lever hard one time, not riding fortunately.  So I tanked that one.   

The Braking and the Nissin have credibility in their products, so those are on the table with the former running around $236 and the latter around $200 with the reservoir and the brake light switch.  Looks like Nissin has the nice little switch like used on the Hondas where the Braking has the banjo fitting/switch setup. 

I am contacting Nissin about which master cylinder I should go to if I use one of them, the 17 or 19.  I've also contacted Hord Racing, since  they carry the Shindy product (repackaged Nissin) and I figure if anyone knows the MT-07 (same brakes), they do.   Braking has a 19mm piston, and I might give them a yell.

Edited May 7, 2023 by klx678

[Pursuvant]

2 hours ago, sweetscience said:

I bought an aero lever to replace the Brembo, because well, it gots MotoGP aero tech lol.  It's a Japanese company called Kohken, which I bought from Webike Japan.  IIRC, they come in 3 sizes :shorty, regular and long.  I got the regular size (same size as stock).  Good quality, and fitment.  There is a slightly different bend to it, but in a more ergonomic way.  

Haha, an aftermarket lever part to replace the Brembo aftermarket parts. Whoo-da think that was a thing! Double well done @sweetscience

[Pursuvant]

1 hour ago, klx678 said:

 

...The Braking and the Nissin have credibility in their products...

I am contacting Nissin about which master cylinder I should go to if I use one of them, the 17 or 19.  I've also contacted Hord Racing, since  they carry the Shindy product (repackaged Nissin) and I figure if anyone knows the MT-07 (same brakes), they do.   Braking has a 19mm piston, and I might give them a yell.

You remember I'm sure, how you worked with Brembo to engineer a solution for illness and diminishing hand strength - and you recommend the 17mm with adjustable lever fulcrum for my limitations. Great for me, but your conditions are different.

I think somebody posted about using Magura radial, it was being sold by one of the SS brake line makers.

[klx678]

@PursuvantI looked at Magura and their price made Brembo look like a steal.   I remember the 17mm, because the stock one is a 14mm.  That was what I was asking Brembo about.  Seemed like their piston was huge and going the wrong way, but clearly the difference is made up by the mechanical hand lever leverage, as they pointed out.  That's why I'm trying to learn about the Nissin and Braking master cylinders.  The Braking is calling for a 19mm, I think the Nissin is a 16.  So I do what was done with the Brembo - ask them.   

I may do the Nissin if Hord has had good experience with them.  They're about 45 minutes away from me, I could actually drive/ride up and talk with them.   They[re $200 with the mirror mount clamp as well as the blank one, the reservoir with the mount bracket, and the brake light switch.  Those would push the Brembo up over $350.  I'm being a tightwad.

How much headache was/is it to bleed the system with the ABS anyway?

[Pursuvant]

I expected to have some extra effort because ABS, but I never found any air trapped that could point to the ABS. Just bleed as normal. If the master you end up with has a bleeder, ride and bleed it every couple rides for a week.

[Pursuvant]

2023.05 Mod

Relocated the control switch to OEM position, and moved the Brembo RCS17 inside of that housing - returning it to the most common handlebar location. Just to show it can be done, and what needs modified to make it all fit.

I did rotate the control switch to allow clearance for the wiring harness exiting the control housing, without having to modify that shape of the control housing where the wiring harness is zip-tied to the housing. For an explain, read the previous posts.